GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: John Dobbins on September 10, 2016, 12:31:34 AM
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Just recieived my new Hatsan 135QE from Pyramid Air. No dings, no scratches, just a nice piece of walnut and blued steel. The sights were easy to dial in at 10 meters. It was hard to do any serious accuracy testing because of sweat and mosquitos, but I will try again in the morning. I will try to adjust the trigger down to around two pounds if that is possible. The instruction manual could have been more specific and a schematic would have been nice. I think I am going to love this gun! The weight didn't bother me,in fact, l think the extra weight will help in my offhand shooting. Any tips on this gun will be much appreciated.
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Zero in at 20 to 25 yards if you have the room. If you zero at 10 the shots will be very high at 25 to 30 yards.
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What caliber did you get? I have one in .22 on backorder at PA.
Dennis
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I went with the .22 and put a UTG Bugbuster 3-9 on it. I did have to put an offset scope mount on the gun. I'll sight it in tomorrow.
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Great choice, on the gun and caliber. In .22, you will easily get 50 yards of useable trajectory with no holdover- if the rifle is accurate enough. Looking forward to your results. Do you plan on doing a lot of pellet testing, or just dialing it in with what you can get on the shelf?
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If you end up doing some pellet testing, I recommend breaking in with a few hundred shots before really getting down and dirty with the testing. My 95QE (.25 caliber) changed it's diet after breaking in. I bet you'll be really happy with your 135QE- at some point I want to get the .22
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John,
Please let us hear how it shoots! One of my concerns about the 135qe was the short barrel (only 10.6", as I recall). But I gather the short barrel length is not a significant hindrance to achieving high velocity and the gun is very accurate as well.
Dennis
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In .22, that should be plenty of barrel. In .177, twice that would not be enough to max that bad boy out!
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I have the 135 Vortex in 22 cal and the 135 QE in 25 cal. I have found the pellets that they both like and my 25 cal is more accurate than my 22 cal. Out to about 40 yards my groups are much better with the 25 cal. At about 25 yards they can be about the same groups. I will say that i am still breaking them in at about 500 pellets through each gun.
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I just got my 95 to straighten out after about 500 shots. Now it`s in the black every time (with the right pellets) if I do my part. And it too changed what it likes. Unfortunately for me I invested in two extra tins of H&N 19.91 pellets just to have my gun decide it likes Predator Polymags on me. The lesson there is don`t tie up a bunch of money in lead until you know what your guns wants.
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Just recieived my new Hatsan 135QE from Pyramid Air. No dings, no scratches, just a nice piece of walnut and blued steel. The sights were easy to dial in at 10 meters. It was hard to do any serious accuracy testing because of sweat and mosquitos, but I will try again in the morning. I will try to adjust the trigger down to around two pounds if that is possible. The instruction manual could have been more specific and a schematic would have been nice. I think I am going to love this gun! The weight didn't bother me,in fact, l think the extra weight will help in my offhand shooting. Any tips on this gun will be much appreciated.
To adjust the trigger turn the screw closest to barrel all the way in. The small screw behind the trigger loosen until there is no tension then give a 1/4 to 1/2 turn back. That's the pull weight and you want it as loose as possible so turning back 1/4 turn will put "some" tension on the spring keeping it in place. The middle screw is your length of first stage pull. Don't adjust that until the first screw is all in. They both contact with the trigger plate, firt screw pushes it down and length of pull screw hovers over the plate. The distance of that hover is your first stage pull length. Can't be adjusted until after the first screw is set. Well, it can but any change to first screw changes the distance of second screw.
I would not mount a scope on this right away. Get a hundred or two pellets through the gun first so it settles in otherwise it will likely kill the scope. If you have a tin of pellets you know the gun hates take it as a workout and buff up as you send 'em down the barrel. You wont regret it and best way to make bad pellets useful. These magnums are scope killers. Clean the barrel to get any grease out and shoot it a lot to rid the gun from dieseling. It will be the only time you'll ever need to clean the barrel. Once the gun is worked in your scope should last some. I'm on a third scope for the 125.
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I had put about 150 pellets through the gun and was disappointed with my groups. Then my groups tightened dramatically. Apparently, the gun has to be shot quite a bit for the barrel to settle down. Now I can try several pellet types to see what she really likes. I love the illuminated reticle on the Leapers scope. The stock was too long for me so I removed the butt pad and all the spacers. I am used to a 10 ounce trigger on my CZ 452. The Hatsan is a big change. I will continue to work on the trigger. Does anyone know what to reasonably expect? I appreciate all your input.
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You can expect a nice hunting trigger. It will never be match grade but can be made far better than they come stock.
Like stated. The lbs pull is the small screw behind the trigger. Loosen until no tension then 1/2 turn back to just hold the spring under it. That's as light as it can be made unless you get inside the trigger and replace a spring for lighter one.
The front screw (closest to barrel) pushes on the trigger plate. The further down that is the less travel for release in second stage. I and many here purchase a 3mm machine screw at local hardware store and grind down (make tip rounded) so it's a bit longer than the stock screw. I did mine with the trigger assemble out of gun so I could see the contact distance of sears. Kept grinding the screw until it was a fraction of contact when the screw was all in. You can take out the screw that's in it and use it as marker for how long the new screw should be. Wont do anything to trigger if taken out and another put in place. As said it rests on the trigger plate, that plate pushes down until the next sear is released. The longer the screw the shorter the distance to sear release. By using a longer screw and turning in a 1/2 to full turn between shots you'll find the sweet spot. Then grind the screw down and round so it can't be over adjusted and keeps gun safe.
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Just keep in mind, be very, very careful when replacing the stock trigger screws. When increasing the screw length you are shortening the sear engagement and if not careful will create a very unsafe condition. This should only be done if you fully understand how the Quattro trigger works and what your safety tolerance within the sear engagement is.
Also, just by cleaning up and properly lubing your trigger Sears you can cut a couple of pounds of pull off the trigger with the stock screws and still have a decent trigger while maintaining the stock safety factor
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The thing is the stock screw leaves quite a few mm of contact. That makes for a long second stage which results in poor accuracy. By shortening it to a mm of contact or less (the less part is where you can have an unsafe hair trigger) you make the gun much easier to shoot resulting in a better experience and better accuracy. It suddenly becomes a very good hunting trigger.
I was able to overcome the stock trigger after many tins of practice. I could get excellent groups at 50 yards but there was easily a 1 of 4 shot flier. After tuning the trigger it's night and day better performance. Far less fliers due to that overly long engagement of sears.
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Hey Gut2fish, so you're saying to loosen the tiny screw behind the trigger (I've got mine out) and then buy a longer first stage screw (closest to the barrel) and tighten it down in small increments until you get what you want?? Do you adjust the screw closest to the trigger (2nd stage adj screw)?? Thanks, Robby
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Robby,
I found a post on here about adjusting the quattro trigger (as soon as I find it again I will link it). It has you run the first stock screw down all the way, the 2nd screw get run down then backed off 1/2 turn, and the screw behind trigger loosened until no resistance then tighten to it just starts to hit spring. This worked wonders on my trigger.
I have not done the longer screw yet because I did not know what the internal workings were. This link will explain it in detail (little long but well worth the watch) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEEZhlklPwQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEEZhlklPwQ) . This video should be call everything you ever wanted to know about the quattro trigger. I plan on doing the longer screw mod next week.
Regards,
Jim
Hey Gut2fish, so you're saying to loosen the tiny screw behind the trigger (I've got mine out) and then buy a longer first stage screw (closest to the barrel) and tighten it down in small increments until you get what you want?? Do you adjust the screw closest to the trigger (2nd stage adj screw)?? Thanks, Robby
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Thanks Fsae99. I've watched all four parts a few times. I don't think I'll be dismantling mine in the next few weeks. I may be without it for a while :) However, I've been told by a few very reliable sources that the first and second stage screws can be taken all the way out (one at the time I would think) without anything coming apart. My 155 has already been broken down and the sears cleaned and polished. I just need to find that "sweet spot" I'm looking for. Thanks again.
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Well fellas, I tried the longer trigger adj screw today and ran into problems. I bought the 3mmx0.5x20mm screw, ground the end down to where it was only about 3mm longer than the original screw. I rounded the ends while I kept a nut on it so I could thread it when I took the nut off. All that went fine. However, when I put the new screw in, even though I left it backed out a good bit to try and start in the same place I would with the original screw, the gun would not cock. The sear obviously wasn't catching the piston. When I loosened it up a good little bit, I couldn't get the underlever to release without pulling the trigger. So I can't get my gun cocked. I don't know if something happened inside when I took out the stock screw out, but I put it back in just to see and no dice. Couldn't get the underlever to release without pulling the trigger. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanx
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Adjusted the the trigger on my 135 qe to a pull I can live with. Put three pellets into one large hole. Thought I had mastered the springer. Wrong! I have no problem hitting my spinner every time from a rest, but there is no way I can consistently shoot a squirrel in the brain. My UTG Bugbuster started acting up. The reticle would change colors after every shot before settling on an deep blue. The reticle would neither change color or turn off. I thought that it was getting too dark to shoot until I noticed that my adjustable parallax had shifted from 25 yards to 125 yards. I thought that all Leaper scope were air gun rated. Perhaps I just got a bad one. The squirrels are still safe.
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Adjusted the the trigger on my 135 qe to a pull I can live with. Put three pellets into one large hole. Thought I had mastered the springer. Wrong! I have no problem hitting my spinner every time from a rest, but there is no way I can consistently shoot a squirrel in the brain. My UTG Bugbuster started acting up. The reticle would change colors after every shot before settling on an deep blue. The reticle would neither change color or turn off. I thought that it was getting too dark to shoot until I noticed that my adjustable parallax had shifted from 25 yards to 125 yards. I thought that all Leaper scope were air gun rated. Perhaps I just got a bad one. The squirrels are still safe.
I had really good luck using iron (plastic) sights on my 95QE. I took some body-shots at about 25 yards using the Polymags once the rifle was broken in with great effect. I know you may like the scope, but if you're keeping things close in, might be worth using the irons. I've also been seriously considering a peep sight- I figure the inexpensive AR-style rear sights should work just perfect. I have a picatinny adapter rail and at the ranges I'm going after squirrel, this is a low-cost solution yet still afford a high level of accuracy. They also tend to be much lighter than a scope. It all depends on what you want. As far as mastering- I found my 95- though less powerful than your 135- prefers my lead hand just in front of the trigger in artillery-fashion.
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The problem with the AR style peep sight is that the front sight is not high enough to work with the rear AR sight. I tried that same thing and still have the rear sight, the front needs to be another 1/4" higher in order to get the POI down to zero at airgun ranges of 15-30 yards.
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Well fellas, I tried the longer trigger adj screw today and ran into problems. I bought the 3mmx0.5x20mm screw, ground the end down to where it was only about 3mm longer than the original screw. I rounded the ends while I kept a nut on it so I could thread it when I took the nut off. All that went fine. However, when I put the new screw in, even though I left it backed out a good bit to try and start in the same place I would with the original screw, the gun would not cock. The sear obviously wasn't catching the piston. When I loosened it up a good little bit, I couldn't get the underlever to release without pulling the trigger. So I can't get my gun cocked. I don't know if something happened inside when I took out the stock screw out, but I put it back in just to see and no dice. Couldn't get the underlever to release without pulling the trigger. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanx
Try giving the under lever a little extra tug at the end of the stroke. My 100's will occasionally hang up like you describe but it is due to not being fully cocked. AFAIK, the first (closest to the muzzle) screw should not cause what you describe. I've done this mod on all my quattro equipped rifles with good results.
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Mine could not be helped with a tug, bang, smack or anything else. I ended up taking the gun apart and resetting the sears. I shot it about 15 times after I put it back together, and it seems to be OK now. Thanks to everyone.
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When I'm looking for scopes for air guns, I make sure it says that it's " shockproof" & made for magnum air rifles, as some sellers put it, like on Amazon or Walmart web sites. They're usually water & fog proof at that level as well, so so much the better. Lots of good info on the Quattro trigger here too. I saw the schematic, I downloaded the owner's manual for the Striker 1000x I have coming in Monday so far. It has a schematic in it for the trigger. So go to this site for Owner's Manual PDF download. I use my Kindle app as the reader for PDF's as well. Easier to find that way...http://www.hatsanusa.com/ (http://www.hatsanusa.com/)
I ordered the Hammer 3-9x32AO scope for my Hatsan Striker 1000x, which should be here today, 2 days early! Here's the page for the scope, to give an example of description mentioned; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BXVCMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BXVCMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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I've been thrilled with my 95QE using just iron (plastic?) sights. I also used a red-dot to great success- don't know if you'd be okay with that, but for quick shots on pest squirrels, it's great. Reflect sights also work great; and my reflex sight is the super-cheap Crosman one that came with my wife's P-17 pistol.
Quick note about the short barrel- I've read that the shorter barrels help with accuracy. Pellet spends less time inside a barrel, so less chance of shifting of point-of-aim from vibration. Likewise, barrel harmonics is less of an issue (less whip) and of course, it costs them less per unit. Several of the high end break-barrels have short barrles, under 10". Likewise, going back into Robert-Beeman stories, FWB started offering the model 65 MKII pistol when some clown showed up with a a cut-down barrel on his model 65 and wiped the competition. This was in the early 80's if I recall. As long as you aren't dry firing, a short barrel in a springer makes very good sense. I know an old B1 I tinkered with shoots with greater accuracy after I cut the barrel down to 10 inches. I performed the world's ugliest crown job on it- now shooting better than it ever did with the full length barrel.
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try the irons. if you get consistent that way, blast em with iron sights while waiting for leapers to replace the scope