GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Feinwerkbau => Topic started by: 57West on July 22, 2016, 08:09:06 AM
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I am doing some carpentry projects for one of my neighbors and offered to barter on payment for the first day. He is a very interesting guy with lots of cool interests and collections and I knew I would enjoy whatever he had in mind. As you probably guessed from the title, he came strolling out with this beautiful Fwb 124 sporter from the late seventies (Im guessing but serial is 110XX) looks to be in pretty good condition. No rust, a couple dings in stock and some minor barrel scratches. He tried to shoot it recently and the pellet didnt make it out of the barrel. I oedered the "old school arctic super duty kit" from ARH and have been searching around for helpful tips for the instal. Especially about what types of lube to use and where. There is so much info spread so far around that I thought i would ask you all in a new Topic. So if anyone has any tips or recommendations on my upcoming project I would be happy to listen. And/or if you know of a good thread or websight with this info already out there feel free to let me know. Thanks again.
-Steve
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These were helpful to me.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html)
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html)
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Also, I use Ultimox 226 as an everywhere lube. It's more evpensive but I believe it's worth it. ARH also has several lubes you can use and they are certainly time tested.
By the way, this is what the old seal will look like when you take the rifle apart. There will be "seal matter" spread all over the compression tube and piston. This is next to a new ARH seal.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Thiggs1/Fwb%20124/image_zpsb7198jt8.jpeg)
Higgs
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GET ALL the old sear debris out of the roof of comp chamber ... ALL OF IT !!
be careful re-threading the action screw, it is a fine thread easily cross threaded and has a shoulder it must center on just before it snugs up.
Moly lube threw out on this gun would be my suggestion ....
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These were helpful to me.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html)
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html)
Good info for the 'new to 124s' crowd. Back in the '80s/'90s I did several 124 kittings in my own stable of them by hand. Solo. Next time I do one, I'll use a spring compressor.
These are GREAT airguns. Light cocking, good power, great accuracy, good trigger. The Arctic kit has a shorter spring and is easier to install than a factory (loooooong) spring is.
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Thanks Higgs, Moterhead and Yrok. I will check out the links tonight when I get home. Thanks for the tip and pics of the seals, Higgs, I wonder if thats what I have to look forward to?
Yrok, were you able to get things done without a spring compresser? I wouldnt mind rigging one up in my shop but if i can avoid it for the disassembly I figure i will be ok without it for the install of the short spring.
I just bought 8 oz of moly paste so I will probably go with your suggestion, Moterhead. Thanks
What are your thoughts on the original plastic trigger? Should i order a replacement since i will have it broken down already or should I try out the stock first?
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Not all moly is created equal. Engine assembly moly will likely be a cheaper version. You want moly paste with at least 60% molybdenum (important!).
As for trigger, last time I looked ARH didn't have the trigger in stock. Maybe they do now?? I would , for sure, get one if they are available.
If you don't want to wait for moly to be sent via a web order, you may be able to get the Honda moly from a Honda car or cycle shop if you have one local. It's good stuff.
Higgs
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Still have the stock triggers (plastic and cast alum) in mine, though I have bought 2 of the JM machined ones over the past few years. The stock ones function very well (when properly adjusted and lubed) as far as I'm concerned. It ain't a match rifle.
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The moly I have is 65% so I should be good to go in that department. I am probably going to go with the stock trigger for now and see how it goes. My pockets aren't deep enough right now to spring for a new one. I didn't realize how much the new ones go for when I asked.
I know its not a match rifle, but the competition has been getting pretty stiff around this household of late and i could use all the help I can get ;)
I did check out those links. Thanks again Higgs. Those pictures and steb by step instructions should be more thsn enough. After reading that through I will be rigging up a spring compressor.
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Hey guys, so i started the teardown tonight and you were so right about the piston seal crumbling THiggs. So now my question is, how do i get the stuck, crumbly, melted, piston seal out of the far, out of reach, bottom of the compression tube? Is there a safe chemical that will break it down? I dont want to risk scuffing up the tube with long metal tools. Looking for any advise. I tried to upload some pics, hopefully they come through
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You could put a chisel tip on a wooden dowel, but I just used a long screwdriver and worked carefully. Then I soaked a rag in denatured alcohol and swabbed it several times.
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Thanks Nod, I think i will start with a poplar dowel with a sharp 45 degree angle cut into it and see how it goes
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Steve,
If you are having trouble with old seal material all the way at the end of the tube, a sharpened doll will be fine. I use lacquer thinner for solvent (or acetone). As Nod mentioned, a screwdriver is ok too as long as you don't use excessive zeal.
Higgs
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Update: Finished work a bit early yesterday and managed to clean out the compression tube of all remaining gunk. I made a 3/4" dowel (well sort of) with a sharp cut on it and worked it out followed by a quick rub of acetone. Took the trigger assembly abart and degreased. Re-assembled just to get familiar with it and took apart again. Now I am looking for suggestions on what lube or grease to use on trigger. It is the old plastic one from the earlier years with metal sears. Can i just use molly or will the grittness pre maturly wear it out?
While I was at it I figured I would give the barrel a quick clean. ran a patch down the barrel with some goo gone on it followed by some dry patches and they all came out squeeky clean. Wondering if this thing was ever fired or if any lead fouling is just permanent now.
I am enjoying the process of learning this gun and appreciate all your input and advice. Thanks. -Steve
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Update: Finished work a bit early yesterday and managed to clean out the compression tube of all remaining gunk. I made a 3/4" dowel (well sort of) with a sharp cut on it and worked it out followed by a quick rub of acetone. Took the trigger assembly abart and degreased. Re-assembled just to get familiar with it and took apart again. Now I am looking for suggestions on what lube or grease to use on trigger. It is the old plastic one from the earlier years with metal sears. Can i just use molly or will the grittness pre maturly wear it out?
While I was at it I figured I would give the barrel a quick clean. ran a patch down the barrel with some goo gone on it followed by some dry patches and they all came out squeeky clean. Wondering if this thing was ever fired or if any lead fouling is just permanent now.
I am enjoying the process of learning this gun and appreciate all your input and advice. Thanks. -Steve
Good moly should work fine on the trigger sears. JB non-embedding Bore Paste with a brass rod will clean out the gunk in the barrel.
Is 57 West a reference to NYC? My grandmother lived on West 57th street in NYC. :-*
-Y
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Yogi, thanks for the tip. No, 57West is just an old number/name combo I have used for years for online registrations. I guess I'm just to lazy to think up a cooler one.
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Well, I now have a fully functioning 124! Thank you guys for all your help. I got a bit impatient waiting for all the various lubes to arrive and decided to go with Motorheads recommendation of a full moly lube. All moving parts got a coating of moly. I do not yet have a chrony so no numbers for you all but the pellets hit my target with athority at 20 yards. (Well when I actually hit it) I only shot 20 or so pellets to feel how she shoots. I will try to sight her in tonight and work on my acuracy. The trigger is incredibly smooth. Not even a hint of stages though. Just a long buttery smooth travel till the gun fires. I will work on adjusting that this weekend as well. This was a good experience for me and now that i have been in there I know so much more about how these guns work. Thank you all again. Hopefully I can pick up a chrony soon and keep track of how these guns are shooting.
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Although his website did not show the alum trigger in stock, when I purchased my
kit I asked if one was available and sure enough he sold me one.
If you want the new trigger send him an email, hopefully he can take care of you.
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Good to hear the rifle is firing well and back together. I have a 124 on my workbench with an ARH kit waiting to be installed. Should be fun!
I would encourage you to shoot a few hundred pellets through the newly tuned 124 before attempting to site it in. It will often shoot erratically until all the lube and new seals have broken in.
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Chardosmith, the process was more simple than I thought. Cleaning the old seal out was the hardest part of the job. I forgot to mention that i did not build a spring compressor, I just used an older metal bar clamp with plenty of adjustment on the screw. I put the compression tube (trigger up) on a 2x6 with the rear sight hanging off one end and the back side with the safety hanging a couple inches over the other side. Thats what allows you to hold and carefully remove the safety and spring as you ease the spring out. (And put it back in) A block infront of barrel and a smaller block over the now upsidedown safety. Hopefully that makes sense. Overall Id say a 5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. I also had a lot of help from members here via messaging.
I sighted in with iron sights and put 50 pellets down range tonight. This is the first springer I have shot more than a few times. Now that I have a hold she likes, I am getting very consistant at hitting my targets which are 3/4" yard sale stickers and reactive target stickers from 10 to 20 yards. She likes a very light sholder hold with palm of hand open but cradling trigger guard and a light trigger hand soft and slow trigger pull.
I am really liking this gun.