GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: shiyfire on April 07, 2011, 09:13:37 AM
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I have a RWS 350,just got it a few weeks ago and the trigger has an adjustment screw but i dont know which way to turn it to lighten the pull.I know i could just go twisting on it but i figured i would ask first.
thanks
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I too have a 350 and the screw does not lighten the pull it only adjusts the first or second stage I believe.
If you use the search feature for adjusting the 350 you will find posts about it, but I believe it is set for 3 lbs and cannot be changed unless a full trigger tune is done by a pro tuner.Rob
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Rob you are right, but some times it will lightn them up alittle turn it counter clock wise to losen it up but if you go to far you can make your barrel lock up unsafe so always hold on to the barrel!
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Thanks for the help,i will try to adjust it this weekend.
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Is it T05 or T06? On the T05 I beleive it only adjusts the length of pull on the 1st stage not the pull weight. I will look when I get home at my owners manuals. One of them tells how to do it. Ill scan or take a pics and post it for you.
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Pretty sure mine is the older T05.
thanks
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I searched for about 1/2 hr and cant find my manuals for any of my guns. They are all in a zip lock bag in a safe place! I hate putting stuff in safe places! >:(
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I don't have any gauges, so I can't comment on the trigger pull in a quantifiable manner, but I have played with the adjustment on my 350 some and have found what I think is the "sweet spot" for me. First, I read a Tom Gaylord blog he did for Pyramid Air a year or so ago about the trigger on a Crossman NPSS, I think it was. He was raving about the trigger on a friend's rifle after said friend told him the trigger was not tuned, just adjusted. Tom said he had played with the adjustment before without noting any effect, but just hadn't gone far enough. In that case, the friend told him to just back off the adjustment screw until the second stage disappeared, then screw it in until you got solid sear engagement again in the second stage (this is a paraphrase of my recollection and I won't vouch for its accuracy). Now, the NPSS and 350 are completely different guns with different triggers, but they both only have one adjustment screw, so I figured, "What the heck?" I did the same thing. I unscrewed the adjustment screw probably 2 or 3 complete turns, in very small increments of no more than 1/8 of a turn, until the second stage disappeared. What that leaves you with is a very, very long single stage with a truly genuine honest-to-God "surprise break." It's pretty freaky shooting it this way because of the very long travel, but I was amazed at the accuracy I was getting because of it. Unfortunately, I just had to have the second stage "feel," so I screwed the adjuster back in until the second stage just reappeared. Having it on that fine an "edge," though, would allow the trigger to go out of adjustment and the second stage would disappear again unpredictably until I had about a quarter turn screwed back in after the second stage was first felt. And that's where I've left it for the last 300 shots or so with no need to adjust it further. The trigger now has about a 1/4" first stage take-up that ends with a solidly felt second stage that breaks very cleanly with just a tad more than barely perceptible additional pressure on the trigger. It is very nearly as nice to shoot as the Rekord trigger on my HW35EB. And my 350 is box stock except for scope, sight removal and addition of a Beeman muzzle brake. I am very pleased with the trigger behavior on this gun which really helps with my off-hand shooting. Now, I just can't remember what the trigger was like before that made me think I needed to "fix" it, so I can't really tell you how much of an improvement this is. And it's also possible everybody else already figured this out before I did so this isn't even worth reading, in which case, "sorry."
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I have found my instruction manuals but my IT person is refusing to help me scan them. I will get them in tomorrow.