GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: mac22 on June 05, 2016, 06:54:17 PM
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Hello, I have several air rifles and pistols, one is a a pistol that I have to undergo a firearms visit every 5 years, however the one I need help on, is a really nice nickle plated Sheridan pistol, its about 14 years old, I have not used it for some time and have found that all is OK when I put in the CO2 cartridge, but when I fire it the pellet comes out the barrel fairly weakly and all the CO2 leaks away inside, I have taken it apart, all very simple, but I am not quite sure how the valve unit is removed from the tube housing, I don't want to damage it, has anyone had any experience with this pistol and can offer some advice..
Thank you..
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8) Welcome!!!
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The valve is assembled in the tube. To take it apart you will need a purpose built tool that goes in the back end of the tube and locks into the valve nut and allows you to unscrew it. Once that is out the rest of the valve parts simply come right out.
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Thanks for the welcome and replies received, fivestar45 have you ever seen the tool that you mention, as some indication of its design may help in making an alternative means of extraction.
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The tool van be purchased at baker airguns or pyramid air. The reseal parts can bd purchased at either place too alng with Mac 1. Mac1 doesn't have the tool though. This isn't the best picture but gives you an idea of the tool.
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/benjamin-sheridan-repair-kit-fits-some-pre-1995-multi-pump-guns-w?a=624 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product/benjamin-sheridan-repair-kit-fits-some-pre-1995-multi-pump-guns-w?a=624)
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I have rebuilt a few of the E's and F's ( the rifle version) I bought the valve tool from Bryan & Associates since his passing all of his parts were sold to Baker.
I think that Mac1 also sells the tool . For me, the tool was cheaper to buy than the time to make one
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mac22:
I'm guessing from what you said that Borehamwood is in England. You might check with GMAC Custom Parts to see if they carry the tool or know of a source on that side of the pond. There are also a couple of youtube videos on making the tool if you don't want to order from the States.
Hope this helps,
Jim
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mac22:
I'm guessing from what you said that Borehamwood is in England. You might check with GMAC Custom Parts to see if they carry the tool or know of a source on that side of the pond. There are also a couple of youtube videos on making the tool if you don't want to order from the States.
Hope this helps,
Jim
Thanks Jim
I found the YouTube video and made the tool described, all worked well at the start, the locking piece unscrewed and came out, sadly, unlike the video, the rest of the unit is stuck, I have tried gentle and not so gentle knocking from the opposite end with no luck, I looked again on the net and found a site that shows an extraction tool being used for this kind of Sheridan set up, as there is a threaded end on the brass valve unit I now think that another tool will be required, the only issue I have, is what type, and size of thread is on the end of the valve, we are all metric now in the UK, though I do have an assortment of nuts & bolts going way back, if anyone has any ideas, all will be welcome..
Ian
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Mac22:
I'm far from an expert on rebuilding Sheridans but I'm trying to learn the basics. I have the parts on order (including the tool) to try to rebuild my boyhood Blue Streak. This board has been extremely helpful. I would suggest asking the moderators to move this topic to the vintage gate. There are a lot of Sheridan folks there.
Try this video starting at about the 10 minute mark. It might help. I can't remember if he tells how he makes the second tool or not but it should give you an idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1_DGNaaAs0&list=PLZqmjn_9InhEPoLhHjgvy-9HBglfslB65&index=4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1_DGNaaAs0&list=PLZqmjn_9InhEPoLhHjgvy-9HBglfslB65&index=4)
The tool from Baker or Pyramyd uses one end to remove the retaining nut and the other end to remove the rest. He demonstrates it the video.
You can try emailing Tim at MAC1 or Denis at Baker Airguns. Both can be found in the retailers gate. They can probably give you the details for the second tool.
Longhunter, a GTA member might be able to help. He is a recommended Sheridan restorer and was very helpful to me. Please see this thread.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=109961.msg1049091#msg1049091 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=109961.msg1049091#msg1049091)
Hope this helps,
Jim
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Mac22:
Two references that might help.
The first is to the Sheridan Repair Manual. It's listed as a download about 1/2 way down the page. It includes instructions for the co2 rifle. I'm not sure of the difference between the CO2 rifle and pistol. Assuming they are the same, the manual does list the thread size you are looking for if it is the same as for the Blue Streak. Also, it shows removing the valve assembly for the CO2 rifle.
http://ujays.net/sheridan.html (http://ujays.net/sheridan.html)
The second is to the download link for the manual and parts diagram from the Crosman website.
https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/articles/203361234-E-EB-Series-Owner-s-Manual-EVP-1991-2008- (https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/articles/203361234-E-EB-Series-Owner-s-Manual-EVP-1991-2008-)
Good luck on your rebuild,
Jim
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Jim
Many thanks for the information, the vidio clips show all the detail I need to know..
Ian
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Ian:
Glad to help, at least I hope I helped.
Please post some pictures when you can.
Thanks,
Jim
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Hi jim
I made up an extractor to pull out the valve unit, and have attached a photo showing the various parts, I have ordered the various seals as it makes sense to change them all due to age, but of course the real culprit, as far as I can tell, is that the seal that the gas cylinder butts up too, its out of stock and is on back order from the suppliers, I find it hard to believe that the cost of this one modest seal is £3.75 then postage on top, is much the same price, so its over $10 !
You can see the two tools I made up, thanks to your Youtube referral, bottom right, I spot welded a nut into the end of a redundant box spanner, and the other the shaped four sided socket..
I will let you know how I get on..
Ian
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Do you have access to Crosman parts ? As that pink powerlet seal looks like a standard 22xx part also I'm pretty sure that you can use a 2240 valve stem. Other than that all that's needed is a few o rings.
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Fivestar 45
Thank you for your help, I checked one main UK supplier and the Crosman seals must be the same as they are also on back order as well, however I looked on E Bay UK and found someone selling five seals (for in your money about $6 inc postage) they seem to be the ones, so have ordered them, so fingers crossed, I read an interesting article re not over tightening the compression bolt/cap that holds the CO2 cartridge in place, as it was felt that over tightening played a part in reducing the working life of the seal, this may well be common knowledge, however being a newbie I thought its a good point..
Ian
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Seals arrived yesterday, although I checked, the seals were for a slightly different model, its confusing as the exploded photo of parts I related my order too, Models E17/EB17, E20/EB20 & E22/EB22, looked right, anyway I dug out my boxes of rubber rings as seals, I punched out a new lead seal out of a piece of old organ pipe (ex church organ builder) and had a go at putting it all back together, fiddly task trying to compress all the working parts and do up the ring nut at the same time, tried it, nothing, the CO2 seals from E Bay were slightly thicker and less flexible, so I used a coin to aid compression of the canister, that worked only for all the gas to leak away at the first pull of the trigger, took it all apart again and replaced the new CO2 seal with two glued layers of thick softish leather (ex leather couch) tried again, this time there was a good pop but then a gradual leak with air coming out of the barrel this time, so at least the leather seemed ok, all apart again, now looking at the design, and find it unusual that there in no seal between the exhaust valve face and valve guide and chamber, so effectively the air seal is between two brass faces, I have never found this set up in any other device where air or water pressure is being controlled, I appreciate it must work and that no such seal is indicated on any parts list... All to be continued as had to leave it for now, as other domestic duties are calling..
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Having had no success in getting a seal kit I bought some 2mm Silicon rubber sheeting and a punch set on EBay, after several attempts I managed to punch out some seals that were central, I replaced the Co2 seal with a Silicon one, I also used a Silicon seal instead of the lead one, and to avoid distorting it I turned the locking nut around, so that the flat side faced the seal, all worked well, up to a point, there is a very slight whisper of gas coming from the muzzle after the first firing, this could be either due to to the brass valve or the seal between the transfer chamber and the wall of the main tube barrel, power is OK, fired 20 or so shots without too much power loss.
One point to watch out for when taking this pistol apart, is the small spring and ball bearing that keeps the safety catch in place, it flies out very easily. I will have another try at sealing at some point, however it will be interesting to see if the Silicon rubber seals will last..