GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: Gear_Junkie on April 30, 2016, 09:44:43 PM
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Well, I have 2 blue 97K's on order from Krale, along with 1 Vortek SHO Kit. (I know this might sound crazy, but I ordered 2 so that I would at least have some choice on the stock - I know these can vary in coloration quite a bit. I plan to sell the other one.)
Can someone please point me to a really good disassembly AND REASSEMBLY guide? I've found a few ok disassembly guides, but none of them go back and reinstall everything. Without a guide, I guess my questions are:
Will I need a spring compressor? (None of the guides have used one, which seems crazy coming from a 34, but there didn't seem to be much preload with these.)
Should the trigger assembly pins and the cocking lever pin be punched out from a certain side of the rifle? (I have read that some European rifles have a preference.)
What's the best way to break the rear action loose?
Where should the piston be lubed?
Should the outside of the compression tube be lubed (to ease sliding in the action)?
How is the safety reinstalled?
How is the bear trap reinstalled? Should moly be used between all sliding surfaces?
Should the rear action be greased before reinstall?
Thanks for the help!
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These two videos helped me.
Take down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoSNSn4fP0Q# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoSNSn4fP0Q#)
Assembly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU7Bq7FVqkI# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU7Bq7FVqkI#)
I didn't use a spring compressor.
Worked just fine without one.
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Well, I have 2 blue 97K's on order from Krale, along with 1 Vortek SHO Kit. (I know this might sound crazy, but I ordered 2 so that I would at least have some choice on the stock - I know these can vary in coloration quite a bit. I plan to sell the other one.)
Can someone please point me to a really good disassembly AND REASSEMBLY guide? I've found a few ok disassembly guides, but none of them go back and reinstall everything. Without a guide, I guess my questions are:
Will I need a spring compressor? (None of the guides have used one, which seems crazy coming from a 34, but there didn't seem to be much preload with these.)
Should the trigger assembly pins and the cocking lever pin be punched out from a certain side of the rifle? (I have read that some European rifles have a preference.)
What's the best way to break the rear action loose?
Where should the piston be lubed?
Should the outside of the compression tube be lubed (to ease sliding in the action)?
How is the safety reinstalled?
How is the bear trap reinstalled?
Should the rear action be greased before reinstall?
Thanks for the help!
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
The 'Guides' are likely from countries that have power limitations, therefore lighter springs.
Although I have done most of my own rebuilds without a compressor since 1980, there are some designs, 'HI POWER' models, that need one.
I press the pins out from the side that lets me control the safety plunger. Rear pin first on Rekord unit removal, then last on reinstallation. Do front pin first with cocked trigger unit on reassembly, install safety plunger, rock trig. assy into place, install rear pin, pull trigger. SPRING IS NOT COCKED AT THIS POINT!!!!
I remove all anti-bear trap devices and use a washer/spacer if needed to reuse fastening hardware. I control the cocking lever during use by forethought and manual dexterity.
Other general Qs =
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1240111527/The+Anatomy+of+a+Tune- (http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1240111527/The+Anatomy+of+a+Tune-)
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That's the video!
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Great info, thanks guys! I still have a few remaining questions:
Will I need a spring compressor - for the 14.7 ft-lb model?
Should the outside of the compression tube be lubed (to ease sliding in the action)?
Should the bear trap be reinstalled with moly between all sliding surfaces?
Should the rear action be greased before reinstall?
Thanks!
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Where did you hear that the blue lam stocks have great color variation? :-\
I would think that laminated stocks all look pretty much the same. ???
Couldn't you just buy an extra stock??
Did you look at the red stocked version? That is real purdy.. :-*
-Y
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Where did you hear that the blue lam stocks have great color variation? :-\
I would think that laminated stocks all look pretty much the same. ???
Couldn't you just buy an extra stock??
Did you look at the red stocked version? That is real purdy.. :-*
-Y
I've seen Nitrocrushers stock (which is just about perfect), and I've seen some stocks with bigger blue patches, which I don't want. I looked for the red stock and couldn't find it??? Where is this sold?
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Great info, thanks guys! I still have a few remaining questions:
Will I need a spring compressor - for the 14.7 ft-lb model?
Should the outside of the compression tube be lubed (to ease sliding in the action)?
Should the bear trap be reinstalled with moly between all sliding surfaces?
Should the rear action be greased before reinstall?
Thanks!
I used a spring compressor with my Maccari spring kit. It might be doable without, but certainly easier with. And it's fairly easy to build your own so it's a worthwhile project anyway.
About the anti-bear trap mechanism... I was somewhat reluctant to remove it, but then I was convinced by others that first of all it's not a REAL anti-bear trap, meaning that even though the trigger itself can't be fired with it, the sear could still release if it's adjusted too sensitive and the gun is dropped or banged, and second, the advantage of no bear trap is that you can de-cock the gun quite easily. That's handy when you've cocked it and for whatever reason you won't be taking the shot anytime soon and don't want to leave the gun with the spring under pressure, or if you want to test out your trigger adjustments. I did remove mine and I'm happy that I did. It's dozen of times already that I've de-cocked the gun without actually firing it.
Cheers!
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Where did you hear that the blue lam stocks have great color variation? :-\
I would think that laminated stocks all look pretty much the same. ???
Couldn't you just buy an extra stock??
Did you look at the red stocked version? That is real purdy.. :-*
-Y
I've seen Nitrocrushers stock (which is just about perfect), and I've seen some stocks with bigger blue patches, which I don't want. I looked for the red stock and couldn't find it??? Where is this sold?
Maybe is is just a UK special edition. http://www.dorsetguncompany.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1236 (http://www.dorsetguncompany.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1236)
http://www.sportsmanguncentre.co.uk/weihrauch-hw97k-red-laminated-stock-22 (http://www.sportsmanguncentre.co.uk/weihrauch-hw97k-red-laminated-stock-22)
Seems there was also a special edition HW 77 with a reddish-brown laminated stock.
Zack, Did you ever think about getting just one and them if you don't like the color, having a custom stock made?
-Y
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Great info, thanks guys! I still have a few remaining questions:
Will I need a spring compressor - for the 14.7 ft-lb model?
Should the outside of the compression tube be lubed (to ease sliding in the action)?
Should the bear trap be reinstalled with moly between all sliding surfaces?
Should the rear action be greased before reinstall?
Thanks!
I used a spring compressor with my Maccari spring kit. It might be doable without, but certainly easier with. And it's fairly easy to build your own so it's a worthwhile project anyway.
About the anti-bear trap mechanism... I was somewhat reluctant to remove it, but then I was convinced by others that first of all it's not a REAL anti-bear trap, meaning that even though the trigger itself can't be fired with it, the sear could still release if it's adjusted too sensitive and the gun is dropped or banged, and second, the advantage of no bear trap is that you can de-cock the gun quite easily. That's handy when you've cocked it and for whatever reason you won't be taking the shot anytime soon and don't want to leave the gun with the spring under pressure, or if you want to test out your trigger adjustments. I did remove mine and I'm happy that I did. It's dozen of times already that I've de-cocked the gun without actually firing it.
Cheers!
Good info about the bear trap, thanks! And I do have a spring compressor, I just wasn't sure if I would need to use it. It will be kind of awkward unscrewing a little of the rear action at the same time I'm loosening the spring compressor. I guess I'll figure it out.
Where did you hear that the blue lam stocks have great color variation? :-\
I would think that laminated stocks all look pretty much the same. ???
Couldn't you just buy an extra stock??
Did you look at the red stocked version? That is real purdy.. :-*
-Y
I've seen Nitrocrushers stock (which is just about perfect), and I've seen some stocks with bigger blue patches, which I don't want. I looked for the red stock and couldn't find it??? Where is this sold?
Maybe is is just a UK special edition. http://www.dorsetguncompany.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1236 (http://www.dorsetguncompany.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1236)
http://www.sportsmanguncentre.co.uk/weihrauch-hw97k-red-laminated-stock-22 (http://www.sportsmanguncentre.co.uk/weihrauch-hw97k-red-laminated-stock-22)
Seems there was also a special edition HW 77 with a reddish-brown laminated stock.
Zack, Did you ever think about getting just one and them if you don't like the color, having a custom stock made?
-Y
When I looked into custom stocks for my 34, I found out that they would cost several hundred dollars. I can't afford to go this route. I figured the cheapest option for me would be to buy 2 guns (so that I get my choice - I LOVE OPTIONS!), and then hopefully sell the gun for about what I paid for it.
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Good info about the bear trap, thanks! And I do have a spring compressor, I just wasn't sure if I would need to use it. It will be kind of awkward unscrewing a little of the rear action at the same time I'm loosening the spring compressor. I guess I'll figure it out.
You don't need to screw/unscrew the whole rear action while it's in the compressor! Just enough to get it into the threads (or out of them). It's really quite easy I found.
The only difficulty is the initial opening of the rear action. Mine was relatively easy, but there are lots of reports of it being extremely difficult to open. I put my barrel into a vice (padded of course) at the two flat spots by the break barrel and with a rag-covered wrench inserted into the trigger slot, managed to get it open with a few relatively gentle taps with a rubber mallet. But someone on another board recently had such trouble that he figured it had been put together with loctite! Once the action is removed the first time, it's much easier in the future.
Cheers!
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Good info about the bear trap, thanks! And I do have a spring compressor, I just wasn't sure if I would need to use it. It will be kind of awkward unscrewing a little of the rear action at the same time I'm loosening the spring compressor. I guess I'll figure it out.
You don't need to screw/unscrew the whole rear action while it's in the compressor! Just enough to get it into the threads (or out of them). It's really quite easy I found.
The only difficulty is the initial opening of the rear action. Mine was relatively easy, but there are lots of reports of it being extremely difficult to open. I put my barrel into a vice (padded of course) at the two flat spots by the break barrel and with a rag-covered wrench inserted into the trigger slot, managed to get it open with a few relatively gentle taps with a rubber mallet. But someone on another board recently had such trouble that he figured it had been put together with loctite! Once the action is removed the first time, it's much easier in the future.
Cheers!
I'm hoping mine isn't too bad to open up, since it's new... but we'll see. The only remaining question I have is whether or not this piece should be lightly greased with moly, oil, or Tri-Flow, to make it easier to open in the future. I'm sure I'll be taking this apart more than once in order to get my tune just perfect, and to see where the wear points are after several hundred shots, so that I can add extra lube to these spots.
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I'm hoping mine isn't too bad to open up, since it's new... but we'll see.
It's brand new ones that are most often the toughest to open! :)
Hope all goes smoothly for you.
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I'm hoping mine isn't too bad to open up, since it's new... but we'll see.
It's brand new ones that are most often the toughest to open! :)
Hope all goes smoothly for you.
Thanks, ME TOO!!!