GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: rc6478 on April 29, 2016, 12:28:23 PM
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Hey Everyone,
I'm new to airguns and just picked up a used Beeman RX2 in .22 cal(Mint) It is mounted with a Hawke Varmint 1" scope. I noticed that the 1 piece scope mount (brand unknown) moves somewhat and when I took the scope off the rifle, found one of the stop holes deformed.
It seems that after trying to zero the scope in, I take several shots and they are somewhat grouped together, than the next several are two inches away....bad scope, shooting position. This is at about 45 feet.
I have the following questions if someone can help:
1- Recommendation for a good mount
2- Do I need a scope stop
3- How to tell if the scope is ruined( There is a small indentation on the tube, probably from being overtightened)
4- Recommendation for a good pellet that this rifle likes
Thanks for your help,
Rich
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Two things the, jagged hole is from a scope mount that was not installed with the stop set properly. Go with a good one piece mount and magnum rated scope. Second on the back of the receiver is a cap screw remove carefully and you will see a schrader valve pin, with a small punch gently tap the valve pin to let a Very small amount of the HPA from the piston Best to have a chrony play with that until shooting 900 to 925 fps. That will help to reduce the recoil and tune the rifle to the sweet spot for pellets fps
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Thanks for your response...
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Every air rifle likes different pellets, you need to try different pellets and find the pellets that your air rifle likes. You could try RWS Superdome pellets. They may not be the best in every air rifle that I own, but they are far from the worst.
Being new to this, I would advise not touching that air valve until you get some more experience. Try shooting it as-is. Get a feel for what it is and how it works. The previous owner might have let some air out before you got it.
I understand that Hawke scopes are guaranteed for life. I don't know how that goes for Hawke though, you might want to look into that. You could try remounting the scope rings and see if you can make it nice and solid on the rifle action, then add the scope to the rings and make it solid, but don't crush the tube. Then shoot it and see if you get good performance.
My advice would be to understand what you have before you spend extra money on something you may not need or want.
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The RX 2 is a gas ram air rifle, and it has a hard recoil that is very hard on scopes and their mounts. Before attempting to adjust the gas piston, get a "Dampa" mount like the Sportsmatch DM60 Dampa Mount http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/Sportsmatch.htm (http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/Sportsmatch.htm)
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The RX 2 is a gas ram air rifle, and it has a hard recoil that is very hard on scopes and their mounts. Before attempting to adjust the gas piston, get a "Dampa" mount like the Sportsmatch DM60 Dampa Mount http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/Sportsmatch.htm (http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/Sportsmatch.htm)
I will only add that at the practical limits of humane hunting with a springer/gas ram ~20 fpe will provide excellent accuracy and usable power without the excessive recoil that can be tough on accuracy and scopes. This is not an attempt to say who is wrong or right just that if the best performance and ease of shooting are better achieved with just a slight decrease from max power. My RX2 is an awesome rifle and a single hole shooter all day long all I did was drop the fpe from ~23 to 20 fpe. That made the rifle easier to cock and much more pleasant to shoot and I gauranty that the targets and pests will not know the difference JMO
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Is there a stop pin at the base of one of the rings? Perhaps it just needs to be screwed outward enough to seat into one of the stop-pin holes. I can't fathom HOW that damage occurred. It almost looks like a pin punch having tried to stake the edge over.
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Check the diameter of the stop pin relative to the diameter of the stop hole. It appears your stop pin is much smaller in diameter than the hole. That accelerates wear and damage on the hole.
Once the scope mount is properly in place tighten it with a torque wrench. Most mount manufacturers have a specified torque - usually in the neighborhood of thirty inch pounds. There will be a torque for the scope straps as well. It is quite a bit lower, more in the vicinity of fifteen inch pounds.
It also helps to clean and degrease the dovetail grooves. I have one gun with no stop pin hole. On that one I put blue Loctite into the dovetail grooves, mounted the scope, and let sit for 24 hours. Sure enough, the scope quit moving.
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I have an HW90 which is basically the same rifle. I also had some scope mount shift when I first got it. Like roadworthy said clean the grooves real well. I used some rubbing alcohol. I then mounted a Barska dovetail to weaver converter. I used the red loctite versus the blue. Then left the rifle sit over night in a gun vise. I torqued my base screws to 35 inch pounds and the rings to 20 inch pounds. I have not had any problems with my scope moving after doing this.
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I will only add that at the practical limits of humane hunting with a springer/gas ram ~20 fpe will provide excellent accuracy and usable power without the excessive recoil that can be tough on accuracy and scopes. This is not an attempt to say who is wrong or right just that if the best performance and ease of shooting are better achieved with just a slight decrease from max power. My RX2 is an awesome rifle and a single hole shooter all day long all I did was drop the fpe from ~23 to 20 fpe. That made the rifle easier to cock and much more pleasant to shoot and I gauranty that the targets and pests will not know the difference JMO
This is good advice here. The more powerful a gas ram rifle, or spring piston, the more challenging it usually is to shoot accurately. And here "challenging" means PITA -- not the "I enjoy a good challenge" kind of meaning.
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Those small scope stop pins are bad about that on springers. They recommend a Dampa mount for that gun because of the quick snapping recoil for that gas ram.
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The same questions have been posted in the "Airgun Gate". See this thread for more answers: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=108372.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=108372.0)
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I will only add that at the practical limits of humane hunting with a springer/gas ram ~20 fpe will provide excellent accuracy and usable power without the excessive recoil that can be tough on accuracy and scopes. This is not an attempt to say who is wrong or right just that if the best performance and ease of shooting are better achieved with just a slight decrease from max power. My RX2 is an awesome rifle and a single hole shooter all day long all I did was drop the fpe from ~23 to 20 fpe. That made the rifle easier to cock and much more pleasant to shoot and I gauranty that the targets and pests will not know the difference JMO
This is good advice here. The more powerful a gas ram rifle, or spring piston, the more challenging it usually is to shoot accurately. And here "challenging" means PITA -- not the "I enjoy a good challenge" kind of meaning.
Amen!
Theoben specifies the Dampa mount for their gas ram rifles. ;)
-Y
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Thanks for everyone's response.
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congratulation on your new top of the line beeman, I have hw90 .22 it shoots well and lazer accurate at 780-800 fts with H&N ftt 14.66 5.54mm head. and scope from my past experience is when you mic the tube of your scope and if its out of round chances are your scope is damaged