GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: Schnitzel on April 06, 2016, 09:00:45 PM
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This is my first real air rifle, it's a Diana 34P .22. Gun shoots great, I have no complaints. I just enjoy tinkering with things. Now that I've shot about 1000 rounds through the gun, I figured it was time for an upgrade.
I ordered the Vortek kit on Monday. Went with the regular kit, with the non o ring seal. Tom from Vortek recommended it. I also purchased the Moly lube from Vortek. After doing some more research, I also ordered some Krytox GPL226. I don't plan on using the Moly. I got my neighbor hooked, and he just bought a Diana 34 as well, so I can always use the Moly on future tunes.
Another member from here was nice enough to send me an email with a PdF file that showed a pretty detailed description on how to dissasemble the Diana 34. It seemed easy, but I didn't wana risk breaking something. Took me about 15 minutes to fully dissasemble the gun. I didn't use a spring compressor. I know most of you guys highly recommend it, but I risked it. There wasn't much pressure against the trigger. I held it with one hand, and was able to knock the pin out with my other hand.
I was expecting the gun to be "bone dry" like so many people complain about online. The gun seemed to be covered in a decent amount of grease/lube. I purchased the gun brand new, and never added any kind of lube or grease. Idk if Diana is doing something different, or I just got lucky. The spring, piston, and seal were all covered in a thick black grease. It wasn't thick, just a thin layer. Seemed ok to me.
The piston had a decent amount of metal shavings on it. I've seen some pics online of other people with Diana 34s, and it seems to be the norm. Also the spring was bent/tweaked. Not sure if that's normal. The gun didn't make and loud honking or twanging like I've read about.
The Vortek kit should be here Friday. I plan on cleaning the whole gun with denatured alcohol. I've read that you don't wanna mix Krytox with other types of grease. Gunna work on deburring the gun as well. Anything else I should do while the gun is open? I've read some people talk about honing the cylinder, not sure if that's necessary. Any advice on that? I don't mind spending a few bucks and buying the tools to do it right. But if it's not gunna make a big difference, I don't wanna risk screwing something up.
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More pics
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Krytox GPL226 I ordered
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More pics
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If you read the GTA rules you'll learn you need to have made a certain number of posts before you can add links.
Hang around awhile, you'll soon be able to post links.
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If you read the GTA rules you'll learn you need to have made a certain number of posts before you can add links.
Hang around awhile, you'll soon be able to post links.
Rules??? What are those. ;)
Thanks for informing me. I'm just so excited about this Vortek kit, rules were the last thing on my mind. Haha. I guess I'll head over and take a gander at them.
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If I remember right I read here on the forum if your going to use the Krytox you do not need to hone the compression chamber. If you plan on using moly then you should hone it. The hone process give a place for the moly to adhere to. The Krytox works better with a smooth walls. Hopefully one of the more experience guys will chime in on that subject. The couple of guns I have done I have honed and used moly. I have a Benjamin here I want to try Krytox on that I wasn't planning on doing any honing.
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I hope your Vortek tune goes well with your D34. Please post your results regarding your D34's shooting behavior after the kit is installed.
I am in the process of doing a Vortek tune myself. After 4500 shot, the mainspring on my D34 broke on the trigger end of the spring. Instead of sending it back to RWS under warranty, I decided on the Vortek tune kit, which should arrive in the mail today. Being a slightly paranoid guy, I opted on building a spring compressor, which took a couple of hours to build. I disassembled the gun yesterday (real easy to do: Took 15 minutes). No metal shaving in the cylinder, although the piston seal did show some damage on the bottom edge. I spent about 1 hour cleaning the compression tube and piston with denatured alcohol, and de-burring the compression tube. Today I will install the Vortek kit. I'll post my results later, since we have snow and rain in the forecast until Sunday.
Straight shooting!
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Did both of you guys go with the full power pg2 kit? Some people add a plastic thin liner inside the piston cylinder to further deaden the spring twang, but it may not be necessary with a pg2 kit. Just installing the pg2 kit in my hw dethwanged it completely. But it shoots hotter than I'd like it now at 15.3fpe+. I used the moly paste they supplied and very sparingly at that.
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I hope your Vortek tune goes well with your D34. Please post your results regarding your D34's shooting behavior after the kit is installed.
I am in the process of doing a Vortek tune myself. After 4500 shot, the mainspring on my D34 broke on the trigger end of the spring. Instead of sending it back to RWS under warranty, I decided on the Vortek tune kit, which should arrive in the mail today. Being a slightly paranoid guy, I opted on building a spring compressor, which took a couple of hours to build. I disassembled the gun yesterday (real easy to do: Took 15 minutes). No metal shaving in the cylinder, although the piston seal did show some damage on the bottom edge. I spent about 1 hour cleaning the compression tube and piston with denatured alcohol, and de-burring the compression tube. Today I will install the Vortek kit. I'll post my results later, since we have snow and rain in the forecast until Sunday.
Straight shooting!
Wow 4500 shots and the spring broke eh? Your a spring killer Fred. (:
I dropped in a Vortex kit after only a few shots of my new 34, it shot smooth after the kit but did run into a gouging issue after about 500 shots.
I cleaned it out, new seal and moly and it seems to be doing well.
Will watch this thread closely to see how this kit works out.
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It is not unusual for the factory springs to fail the spring in my D460 only made ~2500 before it broke near the top hat I think about 2 coils worth broke off. The rifle is much smoother with the Vortek PG2 kit installed
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I finished installing the PG2 Vortek kit in my D34. Real easy to install with my home-make spring compressor. I have heard that the piston seal can be hard to install, but mine went right on after soaking the seal for 5 minutes in hot water, and quickly pressing the seal on by pushing down on the piston with a slow rolling motion.
Wow, what a difference. Its like getting a new air rifle. No twang at all: just a muffled "thump". No more drama from vibration. I think the velocity picked up a bit, (from 860 to 880 fps) judging from POI at 20, 30, 35 and 40 yards. I couldn't test the accuracy that well, since I had to deal with a cross-wind was blowing 17-24 mph, with unpredictable gust occurring down range. But if I just measured the vertical axis of my 10-shot groups, the group size seemed to be comparable to the best I could do on calm days before the Vortek install. I'll have to try again another day when the wind is more favorable...
Can I expect the performance of the rifle to improve as I shoot more rounds? I have only shot 90 rounds through the rifle since Vortek kit.
Thanks.
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Spent some time deburring and cleaning up the piston. How's it look?
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Got the chamber all deburred and cleaned up. Looks pretty good to me
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Your de-burring job looks great. Even after I de-burred my piston and compression chamber, the piston with the new seal took some work to insert into the chamber. It never hung up on anything, it just took some effort to insert. I use a small flathead screw driver to help the seal get past the trigger group slot/cocking slot interface.
Do you have the tune kit, yet? People say that the piston seal is real hard to put on. I installed mine by soaking in hot tap water for 5 minutes, then quickly pressing on the piston from above rolling motion, like putting a tire on a rim. With this method, the seal went easily on the piston.
Good luck and straight shooting!
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Kit just came in, I'll be busy tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed the Krytox shows up soon.
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
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I recently bought a Diana 280 and although it wasn't very twangy i had a friend make a tight delrin springguide and tophat. I lubed the spring, springguide and tophat with moly and now the cocking and shotcycle is even smoother. It shoots cloverleaf groups at 17 yards with JSB Exact at 230 m/s. :)
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
All great advice! :D
My only suggestion is to wait to loctite the stock screws. Everytime I have opened up one of my guns, I had to go back in, often more than once because I wanted to check something or forgot something. :'( Put it back together, shoot it, make sure that it is right, THEN loctite the stock screws! :-*
-Y
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
Gun was brand new, i pulled it out of the box and the gun hasnt left my house since. i was surpised at how much grease/lube i found inside the chamber, on the spring and on the seal. especially with diana 34s being notorious of being bone dry.
i am aware of the moly/krytox not being compatible. i cleaned the chamber and piston very thoroughly. kind of concerned with the Vortek kit though. the new spring came with the guide already installed, and it looks like inside the guide has a decent amount of lube on it already. looks like its going to be pretty tough to remove. wondering if i should just leave it, and lube the rest of the gun with Krytox.??????
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Your de-burring job looks great. Even after I de-burred my piston and compression chamber, the piston with the new seal took some work to insert into the chamber. It never hung up on anything, it just took some effort to insert. I use a small flathead screw driver to help the seal get past the trigger group slot/cocking slot interface.
Do you have the tune kit, yet? People say that the piston seal is real hard to put on. I installed mine by soaking in hot tap water for 5 minutes, then quickly pressing on the piston from above rolling motion, like putting a tire on a rim. With this method, the seal went easily on the piston.
Good luck and straight shooting!
just got it today. ill try the hot water trick if the seal gives me a hard time. did you use the supplied silicone grease or did you go with moly?
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
Gun was brand new, i pulled it out of the box and the gun hasnt left my house since. i was surpised at how much grease/lube i found inside the chamber, on the spring and on the seal. especially with diana 34s being notorious of being bone dry.
i am aware of the moly/krytox not being compatible. i cleaned the chamber and piston very thoroughly. kind of concerned with the Vortek kit though. the new spring came with the guide already installed, and it looks like inside the guide has a decent amount of lube on it already. looks like its going to be pretty tough to remove. wondering if i should just leave it, and lube the rest of the gun with Krytox.??????
Yes although you can take the spring guid off it is pretty snug and I installed both my Vortek kits as they came from the factory and just lubed everything else with the Krytox #226
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
All great advice! :D
My only suggestion is to wait to loctite the stock screws. Everytime I have opened up one of my guns, I had to go back in, often more than once because I wanted to check something or forgot something. :'( Put it back together, shoot it, make sure that it is right, THEN loctite the stock screws! :-*
-Y
Amen!
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
Gun was brand new, i pulled it out of the box and the gun hasnt left my house since. i was surpised at how much grease/lube i found inside the chamber, on the spring and on the seal. especially with diana 34s being notorious of being bone dry.
i am aware of the moly/krytox not being compatible. i cleaned the chamber and piston very thoroughly. kind of concerned with the Vortek kit though. the new spring came with the guide already installed, and it looks like inside the guide has a decent amount of lube on it already. looks like its going to be pretty tough to remove. wondering if i should just leave it, and lube the rest of the gun with Krytox.??????
Yes although you can take the spring guid off it is pretty snug and I installed both my Vortek kits as they came from the factory and just lubed everything else with the Krytox #226
AWESOME, thats what i wanted to hear. hows your gun doing with the krytox? how many rounds do you have through it? is it a diana 34?
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Hope not too late, but it doesn't look like it! DON'T remove the staked screw holding the fork bracket to the receiver bottom ... it may never go back on tight enough to hold again!
On the incompatibility of Krytox to moly, yes and no. All evidence thus far that I've seen is the chambers leave the factory bone dry. Looks like someone's been in yours, but if so, from the pictures it appears they knew what they were doing. This also means that existing lube may contain moly grease. Unless you get all of it out lube incompatibility may cause some degradation.
The yes and no? It's not moly that is incompatible with Krytox, but the additives/carrier base. They actually make a Krytox product that includes moly and state it is there as a benefit in dealing with higher contact pressures.
On the "any advice" question, I'd suggest using purple or blue Loctite on the screws upon reassembly when putting the stock back on. Maybe on the barrel pivot hardware too (don't know about the D34 specifically as far as reports of it working loose). Drawing a blank - that's all that comes to mind except you may need a spring compressor if the new spring is longer/stronger...
Gun was brand new, i pulled it out of the box and the gun hasnt left my house since. i was surpised at how much grease/lube i found inside the chamber, on the spring and on the seal. especially with diana 34s being notorious of being bone dry.
i am aware of the moly/krytox not being compatible. i cleaned the chamber and piston very thoroughly. kind of concerned with the Vortek kit though. the new spring came with the guide already installed, and it looks like inside the guide has a decent amount of lube on it already. looks like its going to be pretty tough to remove. wondering if i should just leave it, and lube the rest of the gun with Krytox.??????
Yes although you can take the spring guid off it is pretty snug and I installed both my Vortek kits as they came from the factory and just lubed everything else with the Krytox #226
AWESOME, thats what i wanted to hear. hows your gun doing with the krytox? how many rounds do you have through it? is it a diana 34?
Diana D460 .177 and an Air Arms TX200 MK III .22 both have several hundreds of pellets through them and much improved shot cycle with no loss of power
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I used the grease that came with the Vortek kit. No issues experienced with this grease, although I thoroughly cleaned the compression chamber and piston with denatured alcohol, and then wipe the parts dry, and then let the parts "air out" overnight.
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Everything came in, so I'm gunna start working on putting everything together right now.
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I'm stuck. Can't get the pin in that hold the barrel to the compression chamber. Any words of advice?
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I would say separate the pieces, test fit the pin in all holes to make sure there is no obstruction, make sure spacers are lined up then try again with the barrel in cocked position . A little fiddling helps. ;D
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I'm stuck. Can't get the pin in that hold the barrel to the compression chamber. Any words of advice?
You cant put it in when its straight or engaged, or 180 degrees so to speak. The rest is alignment and precision work by you, and you can do it. Then you will report back on how good it is and how impressed you are.
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I'm stuck. Can't get the pin in that hold the barrel to the compression chamber. Any words of advice?
Before you install spring/trigger group, right?
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Message deleted.
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Did you get your barrel back on? When I reinstalled the barrel, I had to put the barrel in the open position (~30 degrees off axis from the compression tube), then the pin slid right in. If you try to put the pin in when the barrel is in the close position, the holes will not line up. I figured this out by making the same mistake that you made. :o
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Yea, whats the verdict Nick? Are you up and shootin?
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Got my gun all back together. It's shooting great. Just starting round 2 on my neighbors new Diana 34
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Got my gun all back together. It's shooting great. Just starting round 2 on my neighbors new Diana 34
So how long is that original spring in that gun? Looks long.
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My review on Vortek kit for the rws diana 34 (.22)
very noticeable difference. install was much easier then i had expected, all in all it probably took me a total of 2 hours. that was mainly because i took my time to completely degrease and deburr the gun. had i just swapped the seals and installed the new spring, it would have probably taken me less then an hour. the gun no longer makes a twang when shooting, just a solid THUMP. also the cocking effort is much smoother. the gun all together feels much tighter. (thats the best way i can explain it) i never had a chrony, so unfortunately i can't give any opinion on that. i mounted the scope back on today, and had the gun driving nails at 25 yards. i can't say for sure if its shooting more accurately vs stock, it was windy today when i was shooting. hopefully tomorrow it won't be so windy, and ill get a better reading on how consistent this gun is shooting.
i was pretty surprised at the difference between the moly lube that i got from Vortek and the included lube that comes with the kit. i really don't understand why Vortek wouldn't just include moly with all his kits, or at least offer the moly as an upgrade. I'm sure most people wouldn't mind paying a few bucks more for moly. i ended up using the Krytox lube with my kit. i can't believe the difference of moly vs krytox, they look and feel nothing alike. the krytox feels very thin, vs the moly which is extremely thick and messy. i hope the krytox holds up as long as the moly does. one BIG plus with the krytox, ZERO dieseling. not even the slightest puff of smoke or smell.
i ended up using the moly on my neighbors new diana 34. its amazing what a little bit of lube does to these guns. his was much drier then mine was. he had maybe 200 rounds through it, and the gun made so much noise when cocking it. you could hear the spring being compressed, it didn't sound good. luckily his gun didn't have any metal shavings in his chamber yet, so hopefully we lubed the gun before any damage was done. his gun shoots much better now! i got some minor dieseling after i fired the first 10 pellets or so. after about 20 pellets there was zero dieseling. no smoke and no smell, so hopefully i did it right. have to say a big thank you to everyone on this forum. everybody was a big help, and i definitely would not have attempted the install with out this forum!
so far i would say Vortek is well worth the money. i would absolutely recommend it to anyone on the fence.Tom was a big help, and had great customer service. just make sure you order the Moly lube with the kit.
(of course i can't speak of velocity or longevity, so well see about those)
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Finally got around to cleaning my barrel, and man what a HUGE difference it made. My barrel was extremely dirty.
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/30298106-3EB6-4BDE-A2C2-9637CD6639EB_zpsyhnkaggb.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/30298106-3EB6-4BDE-A2C2-9637CD6639EB_zpsyhnkaggb.jpg.html)
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/74F9D61F-CED2-476A-8FA7-6BAD2FF67D56_zpss5u6nylc.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/74F9D61F-CED2-476A-8FA7-6BAD2FF67D56_zpss5u6nylc.jpg.html)
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/14FBE1D8-B892-4624-A30C-A1E9CB816727_zpscw5jkmmo.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/14FBE1D8-B892-4624-A30C-A1E9CB816727_zpscw5jkmmo.jpg.html)
I really think it was the Crosman pellets. They are so dirty compared to RWS or jsb pellets. Increased accuracy quite a bit.
These were with RWS Superdomes 25 yards
8 shots
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/FC2079A6-3D82-4FB7-88EE-0285B66C78B1_zpsefdfd8a4.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/FC2079A6-3D82-4FB7-88EE-0285B66C78B1_zpsefdfd8a4.jpg.html)
6 shots
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/593AD8DE-AC14-4DB1-9A96-CCACE6DEE93C_zpshjbr6seo.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/593AD8DE-AC14-4DB1-9A96-CCACE6DEE93C_zpshjbr6seo.jpg.html)
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/3FE26A69-6FBE-4870-9CF4-A44756F9A3A0_zpsccgdyy1p.jpg) (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/3FE26A69-6FBE-4870-9CF4-A44756F9A3A0_zpsccgdyy1p.jpg.html)
Hoping the gun will settle in some. I've only shot about 100 pellets through it so far since I installed the Vortek Spring.
I opened the gun up tonight after I cleaned the barrel. Looks like there was grease/lube inside the spring guide I didn't clean out. There was some weird mixture of Krytox and whatever lube comes on the Vortek. I know people have said the krytox doesn't mix well with other lubes. I'm not sure what I'm gunna do with this. I cleaned as much of the Vortek lube as I could, but there obviously must have been more. Wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to remove the guide on the spring to completely clean it?? Doesn't seem to be effecting the accuracy.
Also listened to what other people said on here, and installed the barrel BEFORE putting the spring in. Made it so much easier to put the pin in the barrel. Literally had the gun completely tore down and put back together in 15 minutes.
Another mistake I had made, was I had over tightened the bolt holding the barrel to the gun. It was much harder to cock then before. I left it a little looser this time, and now it's so easy to cock. Learning a little more each day.
Thanks again for everyone's help. Gun is a blast to shoot
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Nice shooting, especially in light of the fact that the rifle is still breaking in. Don't you love the shooting behavior!
Mine has pretty much settled down from my install last week after putting 400 rounds through it. I had to test about a half dozen or so different pellets to find the best one. Before the install, AA 8.4 gr with 4.52 mm heads worked the best. Now I have two pellets that are tied for the best: AA 8.4 gr with 4.51 mm heads and AA 10.3. These are consistently shoot 1/2" groups at 30 yards. My old favorite pellet (4.52 mm) can't even shoot a 1" group at 30 yards.
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Nice shooting, especially in light of the fact that the rifle is still breaking in. Don't you love the shooting behavior!
Mine has pretty much settled down from my install last week after putting 400 rounds through it. I had to test about a half dozen or so different pellets to find the best one. Before the install, AA 8.4 gr with 4.52 mm heads worked the best. Now I have two pellets that are tied for the best: AA 8.4 gr with 4.51 mm heads and AA 10.3. These are consistently shoot 1/2" groups at 30 yards. My old favorite pellet (4.52 mm) can't even shoot a 1" group at 30 yards.
idk if its the time of the year, or what, but every day when i get home from work it happens to be windy. idk how much it affects the accuracy at 25 yards? hoping after a few more hundred shots, and less wind, the group will tighten up some more.
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Nice shooting, especially in light of the fact that the rifle is still breaking in. Don't you love the shooting behavior!
Mine has pretty much settled down from my install last week after putting 400 rounds through it. I had to test about a half dozen or so different pellets to find the best one. Before the install, AA 8.4 gr with 4.52 mm heads worked the best. Now I have two pellets that are tied for the best: AA 8.4 gr with 4.51 mm heads and AA 10.3. These are consistently shoot 1/2" groups at 30 yards. My old favorite pellet (4.52 mm) can't even shoot a 1" group at 30 yards.
idk if its the time of the year, or what, but every day when i get home from work it happens to be windy. idk how much it affects the accuracy at 25 yards? hoping after a few more hundred shots, and less wind, the group will tighten up some more.
Probably solar radiation, should die down as the sun goes down. I get maybe 2 or 3 days out of the year with zero wind during daylight hours...
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Does anyone have a copy of the PDF that the OP talks about for disassembly?