GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: wll2506 on March 19, 2016, 07:50:00 PM
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What is involved, the YouTube video is way to complicated and with his machining, way, way above my level.
Do I need a special hammer, shims and a 3/4 dia block... How long for the block. Is the best buying from AA ? hate to spend the $ right now.
I had a Cock on Open for a short while and HATED it. Loading was a royal Pain No, I'm not cutting a slit in the breach to hold the bolt open, as these are steel picatinny rail breeches... No way ! I will devise a way to do it if I go with this system.
But on the basics what do I need ?
Thanks guys.... Yes, taking the gun apart to make power adjustments needed are getting on my nerves. (Jason, wipe that smile off you face) :- )
wll
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Will ...
Lost me right away ???
What is "Cock on Open" ?
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wll
I just drilled a hole in the breach where the slot goes (undersized) and then used a cheap 1/8” cylindrical burr in a dremel to finish it off. I’m not sure how anyone else does it. That little burr does an amazingly good job. Took about an hour to cut the slot,
Troy
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Oh, never mind. I see you may not be using a factory QB breach??
Troy
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Will... Most of your posts seem to "start in the middle" and are therefore VERY hard to follow. What gun is this? We can't read your mind.
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Don't cut your receiver..... Drill a new hammer pin hole behind the existing one. Use a grinder/carbide bur to get through the surface hardening and a decent drill bit will do the rest.
Here's a pic of a modified hammer next to a stock one. The black spacer goes behind the cocking block/spring guide. If you go to an rva you can opt to use a longer adjustment bolt instead of a spacer.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/m7b400.jpg)
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Don't cut your receiver..... Drill a new hammer pin hole behind the existing one. Use a grinder/carbide bur to get through the surface hardening and a decent drill bit will do the rest.
This right here. Very simple to do, I did it to 2 guns.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=101633.0;attach=144871;image)
You remove the pin from the cocking block and throw it in parts bin. My spacer is made from a piece of 3/4" delrin (IIRC) with a washer for the rva screw to press against.
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Oh man, this is starting to go way beyond my pay grade and skill level.
I'm going to look into it a bit more..... Do I need spacers like AA has in his kits ?
wll
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Oh man, this is starting to go way beyond my pay grade and skill level.
I'm going to look into it a bit more..... Do I need spacers like AA has in his kits ?
wll
Huh?
1) Remove pin from cocking block
2) Drill hammer
3) Put hammer pin in new hole
4) Make a spacer from 3/4" stock or use a longer bolt in your RVA
If this is "beyond your pay grade" I seriously think you should reconsider do ANY work modifying a QB to HPA.
edit to add:
This pic shows the mod. Drilling the hammer is so that you do not have to hold bolt open when loading
(http://i25.tinypic.com/xatf87.jpg)
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Will... Most of your posts seem to "start in the middle" and are therefore VERY hard to follow. What gun is this? We can't read your mind.
QB78
wll
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Why does the AA unit have spacers ?, so they are not needed ?
wll
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Why does the AA unit have spacers ?, so they are not needed ?
wll
This is what I am talking about. You apparently do not have a good understanding of how the QB works. Once you get an understanding of how the cocking mechanism works you will see what the "spacer" does. If you look at the diagram I posted you will see a "spacer" (made from a co2 cart) between the cocking block and the tube end plug. Picture a hole drilled and tapped into the end plug. Not screw a long bolt into that tapped hole (and into the tube). Once it gets far enough into the tube to hit the cocking block it will have taken up the space occupied by the "spacer" and the "spacer" will no longer be needed.
Again - (IMHO) until you have an understanding of how the gun works you should NOT be modifying it.
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wll,
The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.
Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the hammer. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.
Hope this helps.
Brian
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wll,
The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.
Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the bolt. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.
Hope this helps.
Brian
You mean hammer, not bolt.....right?
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wll,
The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.
Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the bolt. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.
Hope this helps.
Brian
Yes Brian, that is exactly what i was talking about. I thought why do I need them if I'll be using a RVA ? Thanks buddy, I'm going down in the garage now to take a look at my parts !
wll
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Why does the AA unit have spacers ?, so they are not needed ?
wll
This is what I am talking about. You apparently do not have a good understanding of how the QB works. Once you get an understanding of how the cocking mechanism works you will see what the "spacer" does. If you look at the diagram I posted you will see a "spacer" (made from a co2 cart) between the cocking block and the tube end plug. Picture a hole drilled and tapped into the end plug. Not screw a long bolt into that tapped hole (and into the tube). Once it gets far enough into the tube to hit the cocking block it will have taken up the space occupied by the "spacer" and the "spacer" will no longer be needed.
Again - (IMHO) until you have an understanding of how the gun works you should NOT be modifying it.
Rob, I'm sorry I meant the washers, not the spacer, sorry.
wll
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wll,
The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.
Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the bolt. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.
Hope this helps.
Brian
You mean hammer, not bolt.....right?
Yes I did thank you. Post has been corrected.
Brian
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Well that was fast, went in the garage and pulled the #2000 part from the chart that Rob posted... hummm I can make a few of these another .250 longer on the back side, drill a 10x32 through the side, and use a long i inch allen screw so I don't have a big knob hanging out in the back, it would look a look cleaner and something i could live with. I'll do them out of 12L14 so they can be blued and since we use a lot of that material at the shop it is no big deal .. this just might be OK for me ;- )
I'll have to check the post again it see if 10x32 is the correct size ?
wll