GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: brewbean on March 09, 2016, 11:42:49 AM
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I'm just wondering how you guys remove the pins from a pump arm. I've been using a hammer and punch but sometimes it takes a lot of work and I've damaged the wood. Any tips?
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I avoid taking them out at all costs. I've even refinished a couple with the hardware still on them. Wood stain wipes off and if I'm going to clear, I'll tape them off.
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Im getting ready to do my 397 and seriously considering leaving it on..I will be watching this thread..hope other chime in.
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You have to drill the holes out so you don't chip the wood while driving the roll pins out. The only reason I can see for removing the forearm is if the rivet needs replacing. Short of that just don't!
Bryan
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Yea I don't bang them out on my old guns. I did on my 392 only because I went from that ugly Crosman brown to the light blonde color I got now. So I wanted to make sure I got it all. After I put it back together I was thinking that I should have cut that forearm down in half. I didn't do it because banging out those roll pins there is a pain.
Other then the obvious, drilling pilot hole thru to the other side and then drilling it the size of the roll pins. I removed the forearm from rifle and piston. I laid it on a couple pieces of foam right on the concrete floor. Bang them out the way they originally came in. Now, doing it on the foam is easier and less damaging to the wood than doing it on the work shop table and trying to line the roll pins with a hole. After you drive them most the way the roll pin may finally start hitting the floor. So add another piece of foam and you should be dunzo.
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I have a cracked pump arm that I need to glue. I could do it without removing the wood, but its much easier to do when i dont have to work around the gun. A couple I have removed haven't been to tough, but this one is a bugger.
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I use my drill press as a makeshift press. Chuck the punch and slowly press them out. Works like a charm.
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I too either use my drill press or tap them out. When I tap them, I open the pump arm, set it on my bench on top of a towel to protect the wood. If the holes are not drilled on both sides, like the Crosman, I do what's mentioned above, drill a small hole through the roll pin out through the blank side, then drill that hole out larger from the other side. I always tap the pins out the direction that they were installed. I will also drill out ofthe original holes to clear them out to avoid splitting the wood. It is so much easier to refinish or repair when removed. Good luck.
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If the pins are buried in the fore arm or u can tell they have been removed in previous repair...how do u know which side to drive from if u cant see the ends.....many thanks
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Look at the pictures here of the forearm. This is what can happen many times, when trying to remove those.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=545281019 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=545281019)
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Look at the pictures here of the forearm. This is what can happen many times, when trying to remove those.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=545281019 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=545281019)
One of the holes on mine looks like that...I hate to do it on the gun, but looks like that may be my only option...
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Phil, the pins are usually installed from the right side of the forearm. You should drive them back out that side, using the right size punch inserted on the left side. If you don't have a punch, you can use a drill bit. Put the flat end of the bit in the hole and tap the drill point end with your hammer. You will likely destroy the bit, but that is a cheap Replacement, and you'll have the damaged one to use again next time. If the holes are not clear, run a drill bit of the correct size in the exit holes until you touch the pin. Use a thin cloth under the wood to protect it against a firm bench. Once the pins are flush or slightly sticking out, you can hang that pin slightly over the edge of your bench, still on the cloth, and continue driving it out. I've done dozens this way and have never chipped the wood. The key is to clear the exit hole with the drill. Even if the drill bit is a hair larger that the hole to ensure the pin won't grab the wood as it exits.
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Phil, the pins are usually installed from the right side of the forearm. You should drive them back out that side, using the right size punch inserted on the left side. If you don't have a punch, you can use a drill bit. Put the flat end of the bit in the hole and tap the drill point end with your hammer. You will likely destroy the bit, but that is a cheap Replacement, and you'll have the damaged one to use again next time. If the holes are not clear, run a drill bit of the correct size in the exit holes until you touch the pin. Use a thin cloth under the wood to protect it against a firm bench. Once the pins are flush or slightly sticking out, you can hang that pin slightly over the edge of your bench, still on the cloth, and continue driving it out. I've done dozens this way and have never chipped the wood. The key is to clear the exit hole with the drill. Even if the drill bit is a hair larger that the hole to ensure the pin won't grab the wood as it exits.
Thanks....I have the proper punches and bits....anxious to get started...worst case...can post up on want to buy....LOL..
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Excellent, you can do it man. Let me know if I can be of anymore help.