GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: CO_Steve on January 20, 2016, 04:49:57 PM
-
I got one of the refurb 95s about a month ago. It seems to want to not shoot as accurately as everyone claims. I've checked a lot of things. Today I ran some CPs through the crony and it was shooting 665-680. I know altitude slows springers down some (6000 ft) but my other guns don't suffer this much. What should I be seeing?
Steve
-
Mine dropped to 530 and it was a defective seal. You should be closer to 800 so there's something up for sure.
-
Thanks. Were you seeing random fliers? I can put three shots in one hole at 50 feet and the next one is 1-2" off.
I'm still under warranty but I'd just as soon open it up and put a JM seal in it anyway.
S
-
Yes, and mine were going farther than 3" off.
-
Left to right is probably not getting used to the hold the gun requires. Up and down by a few inches is probably one or both of the seals. I've heard of a tissue test to check the breech seal.
But then if the pellets are not snug but loose or have great variance from lose to tight fit then groups will suffer tremendously too.
-
I've been working for weeks trying to figure out the right hold for this thing. Just when I start to get good groups something goes off and it throws a flier, or two, or almost every shot. I ran the crony thinking I'd see some large variation but it was pretty consistent. The breech was blowing air (tissue test) but I got that sealed up with no improvement in groups. I don't have any other pellets to try right now but that's next.
-
Make sure the screw that attaches the stock to the action at the back of the trigger is tight. These are notorious for coming loose.
-
I've checked that often, always tight.
-
I hope mine stays tight now that the seal's fixed.
-
Probably needs a piston seal. Hatsan's are notorious for having undersized piston seals.
Nathan
-
Try some different pellets and see what happens. H&N Field Target Trophy and JSB Exact's shoot the best in all 4 of my Hatsan's with RWS a close 2nd in the .22 and seem to be pretty uniform size wise. I have a tin of Crosman's but they either slide in all on their own and loose or need a fairly hard push to seat. My targets looked like I used a shotgun and buckshot...lol
-
H&N FTT come in different head sizes. Where should I start?
-
H&N FTT come in different head sizes. Where should I start?
What have you used so far? If you used JSB already then they are sized (average of course) 5.52mm. I get great results from the 18.13 grain. Been thinking of H&N in 21 grain and trying the 5.53mm. That weight pellet is offered in 5.51-5.53mm. With the smaller power plant of 95 you'd likely be better off with lighter pellet and H&N 14.66 grain feild and trophy are offered in three sizes, 5.53-5.55mm.
I'd think you can't go wrong with the 5.53mm. Pyramyd air offers 4 tins for price of 3. You could always get 2 tins of each 5.53 and 5.54. That small of difference shouldn't change much but you may find there are NO loose fits with the 5.54 size and that would be ideal. In general up to .003mm oversize of actual barrel is perfect. What you may find is the 5.54 pellets at the largest end of range in that tin are just a bit overtight which would lead to some drag down the barrel and a tad less fps but perfect left to right accuracy. Then again they may be the perfect pellet. I'd certainly try that myself as I know the 5.53 will shoot very well but have heard others say some of tin is still a tad loose. I find this with the JSB too. Now that I think more on it I'd just go all 4 tins in 5.54mm. Wish that was offered in the 21 grain...
-
Try shooting the gun with the iron sites and see if that helps reduce the flyer situation. If it does then the issue may be the scope. If you have another scope that you know is good try swapping scopes.
Make sure you're consistent in your hold. Even a little variation in hold from shot to shot can send a pellet off, giving the appearance of a "flyer".
Try other pellets.
Check the breech block tension too.
Nathan
-
H&N FTT come in different head sizes. Where should I start?
H&N makes the 0.22"cal FTT in 3 head sizes: 5.53, 5.54, and 5.55:
http://www.hn-sport.de/en/air-gun-hunting-target-shooting/field-target-trophy-1 (http://www.hn-sport.de/en/air-gun-hunting-target-shooting/field-target-trophy-1)
JSB makes the Exact Jumbo in 3 head sizes: 5.50, 5.51, and 5.52 :
http://www.schulzdiabolo.cz/en/pellets/exact-jumbo-22/ (http://www.schulzdiabolo.cz/en/pellets/exact-jumbo-22/)
Pyramyd Air usually stocks a wide range of pellets, and they are usually friendly enough to get you what you need.
Call them and see what they have and what they can start you with.
DO remember that these are "nominal" sizes. Meaning that if you decide to take calipers to the heads you may measure something different than what is printed and that head size preference of YOUR barrel will vary from brand to brand. Still, within a given brand and model, if you find one head size that shoots better than others, look into it, and if you find one particular pellet that seems to be "magic" from YOUR barrel, buy all the tins you cannot afford of the same lot number.
HTH
Hector Medina
-
It looks like right now all Pyramyd has is FTT in 5.53.
-
So I just went and shots some strings. I was paying very close attention to consistent hold and release. I got a perfectly vertical string of ten pellets about 1.5" high. I noticed some shots even sounded different than others. I think it's time to get my spring compressor project going and get a new JM seal in this thing.
-
The gas rams only pop out about 1.5 inch and without massive power. Still need a screw type clamp to put it back in though. The ratchet type trigger clamps wont quite do the job. I used a pipe clamp and blocks of wood to not scratch the gun and a thick towel laid on table. That's it. Gas rams are far easier to work on than spring, a nice build compressor isn't actually needed.
-
thanks, I was wondering about that. I had a compressor a few years ago and worked on a Gamo, my first project. It needed some help to go together and so I was building something that will do anything I have, including a FWB 124. I hear they are a test. Sounds like the gas rams won't be too much of a challenge.
-
So I got my compressor setup. When I pulled the last pin things only moved back about 1/2". Is there something else than the obvious I need to take out?
Thanks
-
Nevermind, I got it. That's all the preload mine had. Came right out.
-
Yup, just the 3 pins along end of piston chamber. If it moved out that's it. Mine was a nitro conversion of springer so would make for distance difference. Maybe mine only popped out an inch, been awhile. Still will take a screw clamp to compress. I'm amazed how much it takes to move those heavy duty pistons. Put the ram head down on floor and was pushing on it with body and wouldn't budge.
I adjusted the trigger while it was out. Found that before putting back the sliding safety that attached to cocking arm you can adjust it in place. The slot behind where the safety slide goes you can use small screwdriver to recock the trigger there. Then of course your adjusting (replacing) screw and watching contact of trigger plate sear and middle sear in round hole up and to right of that slot. Screw driver to push back middle sear and trigger is in fire position again.
-
I tried the same thing. Leaned on it on the floor. Not a chance. Is there an easy way to play with pressure on these things? I know what the levels are but I do have a Benji pump from a Disco.
Seal looked good but was very loose in the bore. The weight of the piston was enough to cause it to fall to the bottom. I ordered a JM seal for it. I understand there's some fitting involved, that will be new to me. The cylinder is tighter above the compression area so I'm planning on honing that out to make fitting easier. Lots of moly everywhere, it was well lubed.
I had already done the trigger from the youtube video series.
-
I don't know who JM is for that seal. For the sake of less in shipping believe it or not ordered my seal from Custom Seals in Australia instead of Pyramyd Air. Took three weeks to arrive but that and breach seal cost about $6 less. Didn't have to fit seal; was perfect size, snug but not too cramed in fit that in first few shots made an almost sucking sound when cocking. Perfect. As for the stock seal. Yeah that was crud, very lose fit and onl had maybe 1500 rounds on it, fps had gone down drastically.
It's been said on the Vortex that it can be adjusted, no idea how. Was thinking that extra screw on cylinder housing that goes into the ram is somehow the port but again no idea.
What I was saying about the trigger was if you wanted to add a longer screw to barrel side of trigger it's nice to do it and grind to size when stock and safety slide is off. By using a screw driver in long slot low on trigger housing you can move middle sear to recock trigger then screw down longer screw while watching sear contact so you don't leave a screw that's too long in. Grind end rounded to length that still provides a safe contact. A short snappy second stage.
Photo shows where to reengage trigger and up and right of there is a large hole that you can view your upper and middle sear contact after cocking trigger. With a longer trigger adjustment screw, one barrel side of trigger, you lessen that contact of sear distance. Looking at trigger you see it rocks on that screw on trigger plate so you grind the end round for smooth first stage motion.
-
JM= James Maccari
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm)
-
So I found some references to changing pressure in the vortex. You need some sort of adapter that is said to be available from Hatsan. I cannot find it on the parts page. It looks simple enough. The disco pump should do it. Not going there just yet.
-
So today I finished putting the new JM seal in my Vortex 95. The seal was as advertised larger than the factory seal. Fit was snug but not excessively tight (I had honed the tube a bit). I could move the piston with a little effort. I decided not to do any fitting at this point and just put it back together. First impression. The firing cycle has totally changed. Remember I'm at 6000 feet. This is my first gas ram gun. To me it felt a bit like a springer. There was a strong thunk/bounce to the stroke. Now it just goes thunk. Vibration is reduced by 50% at least. Early chrony numbers showed not much improvement, high 600s. No smoking/dieseling, I went pretty light on lube. It's starting to group now even with CPs. I shot some nickel sized groups off a rest from 15yds. It would never do that before. More pellets needed to get conclusive results. I've got some HN FTT on the way.
-
For the gas ram, it takes a Hatsan fill probe and a hand pump. If I remember right, the rams in the 95's are filled to 125 bar. Can only guess if you can go higher as I don't know of anyone who's actually done it. Would also guess you'll get more power but with more power comes harder cocking and harder recoil....probably like the guys who have the 125 sniper and 135 Vortex describe.
If you decide to try, definitely post on how it turned out.
-
Is that the same as the PCP probe on the parts page? The ram says 150 bar max, max velocity at 125.
I just sold my disco package with pump so it might be a while before I try this.
-
yes the hand pump probe is the same for the PCP probe. Hatsan vortex pistons come at the prime pressure to get the best performance out of them. If you go higher you loose the performance.