GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: JimR on January 15, 2016, 10:53:52 AM
-
New guy here ! Bought a hatsan 95 vortex .22. Had to send the first one back to PA due to safety not working. Got the replacement and it is VERY hard to load. I mean I think I am bending skirts sometime I have to push so hard. Only tried two types of pellets so far, CPHP and H&N FTT 14.3g. Is this common ? Only have about 50 pellets through it but it as of yet doesn't impress me. The "beautiful walnut stock" that gets so much praise is fairly bland on mine but I can live with it. Not in to tuning, tinkering, modifying. Just want it to shoot well.
-
Maybe clean the barrel well, & see if that makes it better. Of course, some pellets may fit tighter than others , but you should have to use force. On my Hatsan .177 , I " seat " the pellets with the positive end of an old AAA battery, especially when setting sights, target shooting , etc.
-
I cleaned the barrel before I ever shot it. I know pellets vary in head size somewhat but this gun is MUCH harder to load than any of my others. I'll try some different pellets but so far i am not thrilled with this gun :(
-
Maybe run a .22 cal. bore brush in the chamber to see if it is gummed up. Other than that, & trying different pellets, I would contact Hatsan. Their warranty work is VERY good.
-
My .22 is on it's way back from factory service but I had a seal that was defective. Fitting pellets was never a problem for me.
-
That's strange, never heard that problem before. ??? CPHPs fit perfectly in mine & shoot very accurately as well. I also use JSB 15.xx & 18.xx diablos. They fit a tiny bit looser but are still fine. Something's not right there but I don't know what. Is it possible you got a bad tin of pellets? Never heard of that either but anything's possible.
Good luck & welcome to the forum.
Ed
-
CPHPs vary a lot for me. Some pretty snug others very loose.
-
It is in fact a new tin of CPHP but the HN FTT is not. Those work well in another gun. I'll give several pellets a try over the weekend. I really want to like this gun. based on all the reviews it should be pretty good. I'll post a follow up next week ( never turn the computer at home on ).
-
Maybe the lead-in is damaged on the barrel, it may need to be reemed and polished.
-
Try the JSB's. They fit better in my Edge.
-
I just bought two 95's in the last month. Not having troubles with tight pellets, but I did have a problem with one of the stocks. The first one I received had some kind of brown varnish or something that made it look like dog poo...Couldn't see any of the grain. I stripped it off and refinished it with a boiled linseed oil and polyurethane mixture. Looks pretty decent now. The stock looks much better on the 2nd one straight out of the box.
Overall, I'm happy with them.
-
I don't want to sound snarky but are you sure the caliber of pellet and gun are the same?
There is a huge difference from .177 to .22 but not so much from .22 to .25. One with effort might be able to cram a .25 pellet with bending into a .22 breech. When people are talking snug fit they mean it's a good fit and no blow by of air when pushed down the barrel shooting. That cramming it in fit your talking about sounds dangerous, the air has to go somewhere and could blow right out the breech. Recheck the caliber on pellets and if right I'd send the gun back as a factory reject. Barrels come greased and need cleaning but a breech is still of caliber size.
If they are just a bit hard to get in then the smallest pellet I've sampled (too small for my Walther Talon) was RWS pellets. Think they are 5.50mm. JSB are 5.52mm and H&N ranges from 5.50-5.55mm. Their field and target 14 grain start at 5.53mm.
-
I've found Hatsan barrels vary on pellet fit over the last 3 years.
And I've owned quite a few different ones.
The Edge I have now is a tight fit with the Paranaha's.
the JSB 13's fit much better and I've not tried the wide range of .22's I have.
I'd not thing someone would try a .25 in a .22 myself.
-
I don't want to sound snarky but are you sure the caliber of pellet and gun are the same?
Never hurts to check, but to my knowledge there are no CPHP's in .25 cal. I doubt that you could even hammer in a .25 in a .22 barrel. It could be that he got a bad batch of .22 pellets, more likely that the barrel was not machined properly. Best to let the vendor know about the problem while still in the return/exchange window. I have a M95/.177 refurb and I'm quite happy with it. The grain on the stocks is pretty hit and miss...I have 3 Hatsans with walnut stocks, 2 very nice and 1 that's sort of bland.
-
Thanks all. Got a few minutes to shoot yesterday. Found that JSB in different weights seem to fit best, HNFTT fit a little tighter and CPHP vary widely. Some really have to be forced, others almost drop in. I will keep trying and see what kind of groups I get with the JSB's. Think I have some RWS pellets in my bag that I didn't try yet. Might be able to keep this gun after all.
Got2Fish, no worries about the "snarky" comment ;D stranger things have happened I'm sure !!!!! Now if someone can tell me the correct wat to lighten up the trigger pull ? The book and Rick Eutchler (sp) are opposite :-X
-
I believe the 95 has the quattro trigger. If there is two screws in front of trigger and a smaller screw with no head behind the trigger then it's a quatro.
Overall pull pressure is related to the tiny screw behind the trigger, takes a tiny metric allen key. All measure on Hatsan is metric. Screw out until there is no resistance then turn back about 1/2 turn. That screw when turned to no resistance rests the end of a component on the trigger block, by turning back a 1/4 or so puts some extra tension on spring so the trigger itself wont wobble side to side. So what you want is to get it resting on trigger block the turned in tension a tad so your trigger isn't wiggly. That will give you the least pull pounds without changing the spring inside to a lighter one.
The screw toward barrel end. Just put this one all in. This is the screw that if one was so inclined would be lengthened and tip rounded as it rocks on the first sear trigger plate. It's pushing down making for less contact between this plate and next spring loaded metal piece- middle sear? The stock screws are already rounded some on end and are at a length so no gun (tolerance of machining will change distance from gun to gun) will even be close to unsafe if fully screwed in.
The screw next to trigger is the length of first stage pull. It literally floats over the trigger plate of first sear. Screw toward barrel is always in contact and pushing down, as you pull trigger it rocks on plate at tip of first screw. That rocking is first stage, if you tighten the screw nearest trigger it reduces first stage, it would take longer screws but is possible to eliminate first stage all together. The screw nearest trigger would be screwed in until it touched the trigger plate so any pull on trigger would be second stage only. What distance is left of contact between first sear and middle sear.
If anyone actually wants to replace screws I highly suggest taking the stock off. Super easy to do and your trigger adjustment will be in full view. Directly down from mid trigger there is a large hole on trigger block. All other holes will have pins in them so it's pretty obvious. Looking in that hole you'll see two pieces of metal in contact with one another. Piece toward trigger is the first sear and trigger plate that your screws are hitting. Other piece is the middle sear for lack of better word. You'd not want push down on screw (longer one) so far that these pieces are a sliver of contact. Trust me, even if you see enough contact to know it won't self fire with jarring once together and trigger under cocked load will be so hairy it will scare you so don't even bother seeing how hairline contact you can get. A mm or bit less of contact between those two pieces is a good I thought. Determine how much needs to be ground off screw and grind it down, don't leave a screw that can be adjusted more than would be safe. So when grinding the smooth rounded rocking point of screw with a dremmel keep checking it in gun and go a little at a time until you have a screw that when plunged all in still has reasonable and sage contact of those sears.
Edit -This part I'd written was wrong earlier, you need to take off the long sliding that attaches to the cocking arm. I wrote out and put up photos on 2nd page here to show that. Sorry for misinformation earlier but it'd been so long since I'd done this and had tuned entire gun so had the trigger block out....2nd page I made right for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCBcZRRGK_c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCBcZRRGK_c)
This is a long first video of three part series. It's excellent. He polishes and lubes everything! Not needed and one only needs to take off stock for a very good trigger tune. You don't have to push out pins and take entire trigger apart if you don't want to. I post this video mainly as reference and it shows how to take off stock. You can watch all three videos and go even further to tune your whole gun if you like.
Cheers
-
Great post Garrett, thanks!
Ed
-
Uhhh, I know someone that tried to put .25 pellets in a .22 rifle.............. :-[ John (Packard8) sent me some .25 pellets to try out. I grabbed my 95 and tried to load one---what the #@*% ??? Jeeze, I hate to tell John that these suckers don't fit at all!
Yeah, my 95 is a .22...... ::)
Ed
-
Great info, thanks !!!!
-
I forgot to say those screws are 3 mm. Can be found at local hardware store for about 14 cents each. I couldn't find the exact head so bought two that are a flat with rounded head so they matchd. Also get a small nut, the threads are so fine it may not be needed but you screw on nut then grind then screw off nut to correct threads. Nut is 7 cents.
When I did mine with the new screws being flat like that just ground both to where I wanted the trigger and they were all in. Looks nice that way and I've got a very short crisp second stage now so no need to tighten any more ever.
Those two screws can be taken out of trigger and put back with no effect so you can take one to the store to find the length of new screw to start with.
-
I've made a gross error! So sorry. It's been so long and I'd done a complete tune at that time. You can not recock the trigger from the hole there. The long safety slide that connects to barrel arm needs to be removed and there is a slot there where you can reengage trigger by pushing second sear with small screw driver.
Just took stock off to fix something that was making the closing of barrel hard. Was that little V spring in above photo, I'd not pushed it all the way into place and it slipped off the pins. Anywho, while doing that I was taking a few photos to post here and when I got to cocking the trigger....uh...so am addressing this with photos in post below.
-
Ok, I'm back and figured it out. Nope, don't have to take out trigger block. Took awhile before I came back because I did and put it all back together. :o
Alrighty, you only need to take off the slide safety that attaches to barrel arm. I'll resize and load up some photos I just took for that. That safety is in the way of where you will take a small screw driver and recock the trigger. So I wasn't too far off but I'm sure I've told others before and they were scratching heads from where I'd said to recock. I feel like a baboon.
Photos in few-
Top photo shows what you need to remove stock. Screw drive to remove lock screw, huge dull screw driver or old dull chisel to remove the nut then a punch to punch out the bolt. Other big philips screw is the one behind trigger, hole provided in trigger gaurd for you. Take stock off.
the next few are not in great order but the safety slid that attached to cocking arm needs removal. Take off the spring, take note of which end is which of spring. Do not punch the large pin, I've a photo of punch. Tap lightly only to move it past the safety slide. You don't want to push this big pin out as it holds the lower sear and you'll need to get into the trigger to fix it. So lightly tap to depress enough for safety slide to move out. Same with other pins the that go through slide. Push in with finger just enough for slide to slide on out barrel end. There is a small y metal piece that is actual safety you can remove.
Last two photos show that slide gone and pins pushed back so not going to fall out. Long slot that was behind the safety slide is where you put tiny screw driver and push middle sear back. Last photo shows the contact area of middle sear and top sear in hole of block I've been talking about. That is the contact point you watch as you screw down a longer screw to see it get smaller and smaller. Also where you lube. So that's it. Use slot area to reengage trigger with small screw driver and use window to lube those contacts with small kids paint brush and view contacts to ensure you've a safe amount. Mine is much more contact than I'd thought. I had it about a millimeter and that was too hairy a trigger when gun was cocked. Ended up grinding more after stock was on and think I ground a bit too much but easy fix right? ;)
-
Wow, that's outstanding Garrett. Especially appreciate the pics. Thanks for taking the time!
Ed
-
A few photos may show wrong side of trigger, I had the trigger block off and was grabbing photos to illustrate above. Like the punch and pin photo above looks like it's from when I was removing entire block so is actually wrong side of gun but hopefully people get the idea. There is two safety slides, one small with that V spring and other long that attaches to cocking arm. It's easier to take off the long one to reveal that slot to engage trigger.
Once I realized I misspoke about where to cock trigger I had to take it all apart to figure where and how I'd done it a few months ago when I tuned the gun. So a few photos are out of place from what I did today but did figure out how to do all this by only removing the long slide, and stock of course. So it does indeed work and not nearly as hard as it sounds once you see it all in front of you. The photo of spring reoved with pliers and last two photos are correct side and that's the small screw driver pushing back middle sear to reengage trigger. Last shot is of the two sear pieces in contact and where you'd use screw driver to separate and small brush to apply some moly paste or white grease or what have you lube.