GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => Turkish AirGun Gate => Topic started by: SteveP-52 on January 03, 2016, 06:00:46 PM
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Someone posted quite a ways back how he'd taken his trigger out, drilled a hole, tapped it, put a set screw in and then tweaked things until he had the trigger how he wanted it. The more I've thought about that post, the more I wondered what his set screw is pushing against. For everyone that's done the M3 screw fix, you've had to move a piece of spring out of your way, right?
Well, the other end of that spring presses against the back side of your trigger and when you release after firing, pushes your trigger back out and controls your 1st stage. Push that spring leg off the back of the trigger and you shorten the 1st stage.
Take the stock off and my first picture is the trigger pack. The red arrow points to the pin you need to push out to lift the trigger out. Don't touch any of the others, just that pin and keep a finger on the trigger so it doesn't pop out on you. I say that because there's a very small pin in the trigger you can't see until you lift it out that the spring rides on and it's easy to lose...ask me how I know this.
The second picture is after you've lifted the trigger out and my fingers are holding that small pin in. The red arrow points to the spring leg pressing the back side of the trigger. Remember where it sits as this is where you want to put whatever you end up using to push it off the back side of the trigger. I've used JB Weld quik-set and of all things, 10 layers of duct tape....laugh all you want, that version reduced my 1st stage by 1/3 of what it was. The JB weld version, I filled the channel just short of half way and got the 1st stage to 1/2 of what it was. Personally I wouldn't go any more than that.
Clean the channel. I sanded it to make things stick a little better, then put whatever you decide to use in there. Slide the spring back in, making sure that very small pin goes through the coil of it and again hold it with your fingers, then put the trigger guide pin back in making sure that the other end of the spring goes on top of it. You will have to push up on that spring leg to get the guide pin back in. Picture 3 shows the pin with spring on it. No very well, my camera isn't the greatest.
The fourth picture is just the 4 parts of the trigger itself: trigger, larger guide pin, smaller spring pin and the spring. I also used a little moly paste on all the inner parts I could reach with a small brush, figured it couldn't hurt.
Now very carefully re-install your trigger, line the holes up, put the trigger pivot pin back in and put the action back in the stock. Depending on just how much of whatever you decide to use, you should notice quite a difference in your 1st stage with no drilling, tapping, finding seriously small set screws or anything else and it should only take you maybe 30 minutes tops.
Hopefully this helps someone considering how much this has been discussed in the past.
Happy shooting all.
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Just checking in to follow the thread. It looks like you're just reducing how far forward the trigger returns forward?
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your last post in the forum? What's up with that?
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Thanks for the post Steve, I've also wondered what the added set screw was pushing on and now I know. I can live with the long 1st stage created when doing the M3 fix but I'd rather not. Now I might dive in and give your fix a try.
Like Glen, I'd also like to know what's up with your "last post". ???
Ed
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Thank you Steve. Good post. My Webley could use an improved trigger. Sorry to hear that this is your last post.