GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => "Bob and Lloyds Workshop" => Topic started by: lloyd-ss on January 03, 2016, 02:31:31 PM
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Hi, I'm looking for recommendations for a fairly decent lathe parting tool/cutoff tool, that uses carbide inserts and that doesn't cost a fortune, if there is such a thing. My tool turret accepts 1/2" square tooling. I'd like something that would use different widths of blades so that it could be used as a grooving tool, too.
I am guessing this means:
1) The main holder that clamps in the tool turret.
2) Individual blades/holders of different widths.
3) Different width inserts for the different blades.
If you have something that you really love, please let me know. I am tired of the ones with the HSS blades and I don't mind paying for something that is a proven winner.
Thanks for whatever you have to suggest,
Lloyd
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Take a look at the Nikcole mini-systems parting and grooving tool. Sounds like what your looking for but has fairly small inserts so will limit OD parting capabilities. Not sure if there is one like it that takes larger inserts.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/58189-indexable-grooving-cut-toolholders-359-5100.html (http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/58189-indexable-grooving-cut-toolholders-359-5100.html)
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Lloyd we use Sandvik at work but that maybe to expensive for you. If I had my own machine at home I'd go with something like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-1-2-Positive-Stop-Blade-Cut-off-Set-W-10PCS-GTN-2-C5-Insert-NEW-/351096300582?hash=item51bef86426:g:FTAAAOSwjVVV3Gsr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-1-2-Positive-Stop-Blade-Cut-off-Set-W-10PCS-GTN-2-C5-Insert-NEW-/351096300582?hash=item51bef86426:g:FTAAAOSwjVVV3Gsr)
It uses a standard insert that can be found at most shop supplies stores. We have a set of the Shars mics at work and they seem to be of good quality. The mics are a MITUTOYO knock off at a much cheaper price.
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Thanks guys, very good help. Ricky B, I already have a block with a 3/4" tall HSS cutoff blade and it looks like with the SHARS stuff I might be able to buy just the new blade and inserts, saving me the cost of the block. I am going to dig into this a little deeper. I'd be embarrassed if you every saw the gyrations I go through to cut off parts on my lathe.
Lloyd
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What ever system you get just be sure you can find inserts for it. One with a industrial standard insert is your best bet as you can go to almost any supply shop and pickup inserts.
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Anything with Sandvik stamped on it....
they also make a range of profiling & o ring
inserts to fit there cutting blades as well...
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Anything with Sandvik stamped on it....
they also make a range of profiling & o ring
inserts to fit there cutting blades as well...
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Pete,
Here is the extent of my Sandvick arsenal. ;)
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd79/loyd500/20160106_071911_zpsd9ikyqjy.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/loyd500/media/20160106_071911_zpsd9ikyqjy.jpg.html)
I love the wood finishing scraper now that I've learned how to roll a proper burr onto the edge. You can get a finish like glass on a close grained wood like cherry or maple without using a bit of sandpaper.
I might need deeper pockets for the metal working tools, though. :(
Lloyd
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Lloyd, I've found the Iscar Tang-Grip to be an exceptional parting tool. The pockets of standard ISO blades do not hold up to overfeeding and interrupted cuts well and will loosen up quickly. Easy to overfeed on a manual machine and poor rigidity is more abusive than an interrupted cut. As stated above, for small diameters <.5 the Nickole mini-thin are the ticket although they are extremely fragile due to their insane length/width ratio.
Tom
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Tom,
Thanks for those very specific recommendations. As you said, the lack of rigidity in a bench top lathe always has to be thought about and dealt with. I will give the Iscar Tang-Grip a serious look.
Thanks very much,
Lloyd
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Since I watched a video of a guy doing part off with a mini lathe I've been doing all parting off the same way with great results. Invert the tool and run the lathe in reverse, wow big difference on a little lathe. You might take a look and give it a try sir.
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Zippy,
Hmmmm, interesting idea and a work-around for a machine's shortcomings.
Lloyd
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I have a home shop (hobby) and really have to recommend getting a tool post quick change. The cost of the aloris clone holders are so cheap you can leave a couple cutoff tools in the holder ready to go. I do prefer hss cutoff blades for price and tough ness (albeit at low speeds). You could set up some hss bits or cutoff blades for grooving with a free hand ground radius. I like carbide for ripping through material at high speed but hss more flexible for me fit this oddball stuff. Just my $0.02. ... all of us work different and have different preferences. You could also use hss rounds (drill blank our whatever) for grooving if you have the right diameter and can eyeball a radius.
If you do end up buying something I'd go with a model like the shars link but a quality used name brand through eBay. I've gotten kennemetal stuff nos for same price as import but it all depends on demand of course.
Off you don't mind me asking what issues do you have with the hss blades in you r setup?
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Off you don't mind me asking what issues do you have with the hss blades in you r setup?
Motoraxedaddy,
I have a Grizzly G0602 10x22 benchtop lathe which I think is a great value and has served me well. It was only $999 when I bought it new about 7 years ago. It has a 4 position turret tool post which functions pretty well, but not the drop-in ease of an Aloris.
I have custom ground a few HSS square blanks, and some brazed carbide blanks, for o-ring grooves, and a few HSS bars for I.D. grooves. I am using "custom ground" as a euphemism for whittled out on a bench grinder, ha, ha. The real troublesome area for me is the deep part-off grooves, up to 1/2" deep and occasionally deeper. Maybe it's my lack of tool grinding skill or set-up ability, but the HSS just doesn't cut it. ;) I've checked the centerline height, rake angle, etc, etc. You know how you can feel when a parting tool is working right and the chips are just rolling off and then you can feel it start to load up on the cutting edge and you are afraid it is going to jam? That is me, waiting for the jam. :-\ I work mostly with 6061 aluminum and 303 stainless, so not very difficult materials.
So, if I can get something that does the deep cutoffs nicely, I will be happy, and I might also apply it to the shallow stuff, too.
Lloyd
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I wanted to say I never suggest the big brand name tooling to home hobby machinist, but I know LLoyd is not the average home machinist. The reason is mainly price. The tool itself is high and inserts are usually high too. Some inserts are $10 a pop. The second is tool manufacturers change their stuff quite often leaving you without any supply of inserts unless a carbide company like TOOL-FLO picks up the line and keeps it running for awhile. Right now may be a good time to find a deal on a lightly used up to date style of tooling. The machining business here is hurting really bad. Shops are closing on a daily basis. I heard one story of the banks repoing machines and having wrecker drivers go get them. Not waiting on qualified machine movers to do the job right. The wreckers are hooking up to them and dragging them onto their flatbeds. I can see electric lines hanging out of them, coolant splashing everywhere. I would suggest a TNMA or Top-Notch style tool for grooving, it's more rigid.
Ricky
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Buy a cheap carbide circular saw blade. Cut out one of the teeth in whatever shape you desire. You have lots of choices of shapes available. Cheap replacement if you should ding it up somehow. Mount however you wish.
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Buy a cheap carbide circular saw blade. Cut out one of the teeth in whatever shape you desire. You have lots of choices of shapes available. Cheap replacement if you should ding it up somehow. Mount however you wish.
Jim,
Ha, ha, I didn't know it, but yours was the post I was waiting for :D . About an hours worth of time and zero cost. (I work for free.) This one ought to work for deep cut-off, and I can make ones with less overhang for each common groove width I use. The height is qualified for my lathe, at least until the first re-sharpening, but then I can slip a shim in underneath.
Thanks for the tip!
Lloyd
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd79/loyd500/CutOff-2_zpstysqoo4z.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/loyd500/media/CutOff-2_zpstysqoo4z.jpg.html)
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd79/loyd500/CutOff-1_zpspd3qwcuk.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/loyd500/media/CutOff-1_zpspd3qwcuk.jpg.html)
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when i saw the first post on this, my first thought was use a hack saw blade. i don't have a lathe, but i use a hack saw to cut off rods spinning in a drill to trim it to size. i would say cut & grind a hack saw blade to fit the tool holder.
plinker99
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I read your post when you first made it. I had just watched a youtube video of a guy making a cut off tool from a circular saw blade but didn't think it would work for your holder. Nifty idea and cheap too.
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Take a look at a hss cutoff blade. Something like this:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-16-x-5-16-x-3-1-2-M2-HSS-Cut-Off-Blade/H4969 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-16-x-5-16-x-3-1-2-M2-HSS-Cut-Off-Blade/H4969)
I use one like this but taller. . More like .75"
When you get the funds make sure to get a quick change tool post... they really make things easier. .. not sure if the axa size will fit on that lathe but they do make smaller ones. I have my cutoff tool ready to go in its special holder and when it needs sharpening one hit on the sanding disc table is all it takes.
The g0602 looks like a cool lathe. It was on my wish list for a while but I ended up getting a used Hardinge in need of alot of love. i have a decent machine now but but I still need to rig up Something to do threading (electronic leadscrew ). i sure wish I got the g0602 when it comes time to move the darn thing!
Id go with a blade that has some meat to it. at least 1/16" thick for general work. You don't want the thing chattering.
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Not sure if this helps but my tool post is not very sturdy (harbor freight 7X12). I can not part or cut off anything without tons of chatter unless I turn my parting tool upside down and run in reverse.
For some reason it pulls out all my chatter and cuts like swiss cheese.