GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: GD Giles on December 27, 2015, 10:12:18 PM
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Mine got real loose after 100's of pellets so I took it out, cleaned it w/bore cleaner, dried it off, then slopped it up w/blue locktite and screwed it back in and let it sit for over 24 hours. Tried to zero my scope today and after about 100 pellets the dumb bolt was loose again!! :-\ Anyone else having this kind of issue? Am I just supposed to check it every 50 shots? This is nuts. And bolts. ;)
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If you mean the back stock screw, mine only did it once about 200 shots in. After cleaning and loctite, it's never been an issue and you're the first I've seen saying it's happened more than once.
Also just read your post about trying to sight in and how violent the rifle is and remembered you saying they chronied it at 837fps...the gun is only rated for 800. Seems like Hatsan quality slipped somewhere because they should have flagged the rifle the minute it exceeded its ratings and I would think that stock screw is stripping out somewhere if it keeps coming out. I have a .22 Vortex and it has very little recoil and definitely not enough to be shaking things loose like you're describing.
You might better skip e-mailing and call the guys at Airgun Pro Shop and explain everything to them. You got a year warranty with the factory bulletproofing, kind of sounds like you need to make use of it because from everything you've said, something's not right with that rifle.
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I've got a chrony now and I'm going to run it through asap, probably tomorrow night. Dude, I mean at 15 yards this gun today was hitting bullseye the first shot and then 4 inches out the 2nd shot. 2 shots just barely made my trap and didn't fly into a wall it was so bad and that was at 15 yards. I'm so stressed right now of hours with the voice in my head every time I went to pull the trigger asking 'I wonder where this one is going to go?'
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Like I said, something doesn't sound right if you're getting that kind of recoil. Even my .25 cal Model 95 doesn't have that much recoil and again, same power plant as your .22.
I would definitely call the guys at APS and explain every last bit and see what they say, especially for the money you spent.
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Mine got real loose after 100's of pellets so I took it out, cleaned it w/bore cleaner, dried it off, then slopped it up w/blue locktite and screwed it back in and let it sit for over 24 hours. Tried to zero my scope today and after about 100 pellets the dumb bolt was loose again!! :-\ Anyone else having this kind of issue? Am I just supposed to check it every 50 shots? This is nuts. And bolts. ;)
Glen,
Did you also clean the hole the screw goes into first? If not, it might be worth a try to remove the loctite and try again ... use denatured alcohol for hole/threads first, allow to dry (not wipe), then loctite again. Purple is better than blue but blue will work. Not sure how to remove, nail polish remover?
Vibration or damaged threads is what allows a screw to back out. If anything at all is loose on your gun it may just happen again. Mine comes loose in 2 or 3 shots (the one Umarex pooched up) due to hidden screw for front fork. I don't know if any of your screws are hidden but ALL must be tight including the scope and rings, AND the sights or moderator.
Another source of vibration is piston slam. Can happen if either seal allows air past it --- use tissue test at breach. Same for air going past pellet skirt (loose fit) or too light a pellet. Broken spring will also vibrate even if some will still generate decent numbers across a crony. A cracked stock is also possible ... any place vibration is generated can be your cause (even hidden or unexpected places like something loose inside a scope).
One last thought, push 2 or 3 different type pellets through, check for resistance all the way through the barrel. Throw them away after one use, and if your bore is oversized I'd consider a warranty claim! (edit: well --- don't reuse them, inspect them for rifling pattern spacing/depth, etc.)
My biggest suggestion is set it aside until you are able to think clearly. I cannot tell you how many times the answer to a problem just came to me before I even started to troubleshoot or experiment (or how many times when I was younger I jumped first and did something that made things harder because I didn't think things through).
Hope you get her ironed out ;)
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Glen,
Did you also clean the hole the screw goes into first? If not, it might be worth a try to remove the loctite and try again ... use denatured alcohol for hole/threads first, allow to dry (not wipe), then loctite again. Purple is better than blue but blue will work. Not sure how to remove, nail polish remover?
Vibration or damaged threads is what allows a screw to back out. If anything at all is loose on your gun it may just happen again. Mine comes loose in 2 or 3 shots (the one Umarex pooched up) due to hidden screw for front fork. I don't know if any of your screws are hidden but ALL must be tight including the scope and rings, AND the sights or moderator.
Another source of vibration is piston slam. Can happen if either seal allows air past it --- use tissue test at breach. Same for air going past pellet skirt (loose fit) or too light a pellet. Broken spring will also vibrate even if some will still generate decent numbers across a crony. A cracked stock is also possible ... any place vibration is generated can be your cause (even hidden or unexpected places like something loose inside a scope).
One last thought, push 2 or 3 different type pellets through, check for resistance all the way through the barrel. Throw them away after one use, and if your bore is oversized I'd consider a warranty claim! (edit: well --- don't reuse them, inspect them for rifling pattern spacing/depth, etc.)
My biggest suggestion is set it aside until you are able to think clearly. I cannot tell you how many times the answer to a problem just came to me before I even started to troubleshoot or experiment (or how many times when I was younger I jumped first and did something that made things harder because I didn't think things through).
Hope you get her ironed out ;)
I didn't clean the hole but honestly the threads were not really dirty or oily and they did not appear to be damaged. I do have a cleaning rod so I guess I could try to push a pellet or two through the barrel. I'm just checking to make sure it's a snug fit, correct? I will try and chrony it tonight. I just have no clue as to why some shots flew so far off target. Let's say as I'm trying to steady the gun there is a zone that the crosshairs are moving around in and we'll say, for the most part, that zone is the actual bullseye. I'm going for the center of the bullseye, not the edge so I'm aiming at the center and of course when I pull the trigger the pellet flies outside the bullseye, I expect that. But what I didn't expect was for pellets to fly so far outside of the actual target, ie four inches away from dead center. There's no way, NO WAY, my aim was off by that much. You can see how the pellets are flying in this video I did yesterday. The groups are best in the beginning and get worse throughout the day as I didn't know the trigger bolt was getting more and more loose.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNQMzKt6EqM# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNQMzKt6EqM#)
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Thanks for the video. 8)
Several things to consider;
Replacement stock, if your trigger screw threads are buggered, is pretty cheap. $65 from Hatsan I believe.
Your scope reticle could be buggered! Wire reticle scopes are terrible on Springers. Take off your scope and shoot with the open sights.
If you have not already done so, clean your barrel.
Last but to least, send it back!
-Y
ps what target backstop are you shooting into?
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It will never shoot consistently with screws coming loose ...
First you must determine what is making that screw loosen up and make sure it is the only thing loose on the gun, then you can troubleshoot groups if they are not acceptable!
START BY CLICKING THIS LINK!!! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v63d8PsklN0)
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Mine got real loose after 100's of pellets so I took it out, cleaned it w/bore cleaner, dried it off, then slopped it up w/blue locktite and screwed it back in and let it sit for over 24 hours. Tried to zero my scope today and after about 100 pellets the dumb bolt was loose again!! :-\ Anyone else having this kind of issue? Am I just supposed to check it every 50 shots? This is nuts. And bolts. ;)
I check that screw all the time ... Going to Lowe's before work to get some blue Loctite .. that screw must be tight and the Hatsan guns have a lot of smack as they are very powerful.
wll
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I would hate to think that around 150 pellets would kill this brand new UTG 'True Strength' magnum springer rated scope. But it did fire so violently that it turned the IR on. I cleaned the barrel the day before. I blue locktited the scope mount screws and trigger screw 2 days before. I did everything I could think of to be prepared to do it right.
I've seen that song before. :)
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I would hate to think that around 150 pellets would kill this brand new UTG 'True Strength' magnum springer rated scope. But it did fire so violently that it turned the IR on. I cleaned the barrel the day before. I blue locktited the scope mount screws and trigger screw 2 days before. I did everything I could think of to be prepared to do it right.
I've seen that song before. :)
There are lots of these Hatsan 95's out there that do not have that trigger housing screw coming loose and I'd bet not all of them needed Loctite to keep them in. SOMETHING is causing enough vibration to make it come loose and no amount of fiddling with things to troubleshoot your 4" flyers is going to help if the screw keeps working loose. Gotta figure out where that vibration is coming from first, troubleshoot groups after.
Stuff can snowball too. My bad breach seal loosened the fork screw. Vibration from subsequent piston slam cracked the front sight to the point it was coming apart, which added to the vibration. In much the same way if your vibration issue has since damaged your scope now you have two sources of vibration (you count mine --- three sources!). If you think the scope is a possible source take it off and use the iron sights. All I can tell you for sure is if you insist on trying to fix the flyer situation when the screw keeps coming loose I just don't think there is anything else I can offer for help except maybe to repost the video link ... it ain't gonna be accurate with loose screws (or anything else that vibrates violently).
Too, just cause the scope screws were loctited, doesn't mean they didn't come loose just like the loctited trigger housing screw did. Start over, be methodical, take stuff out of the equation as you go if you can (tissue test, push pellets to make sure you don't have a loose pellet fit, check for a solidly mounted muzzle break, remove the scope if necessary).
You can do it Glen, but its going to be more difficult if you don't put the groups behind you for now and find out why that screw keeps working loose ;)
Good luck!
P.S. Someone else suggested return it. The folks you bought from are human, they sent it to you with an issue and might just do it again ... it happens. You have a better chance of them fixing it (if necessary) if you tell them what the problem seems to be. That is why I'm suggesting here to look at it before I'm suggesting to send it back. Just my $.02
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I've checked all screws at this point and everything is tight. I think the next step is to chrony it and see what's going on power-wise. When I paid for the tune job perhaps they juiced the ram pressure a bit and maybe the gun is proving it can't take that extra air. But I won't know that for sure until I run it and get some numbers. The other card up my sleeve is that I have a good friend that was a USA Olympic air rifle shooter and I have yet been able to corner him to give me a hand sighting any AG in. I think he's got me on his radar now and I'm hoping we can get together this by this weekend. If everything is tight, the chrony numbers are good, and we even take the scope off and HE can't get good groups, then I know it's not me. I think we start with the scope off and see what happens (bear in mind it was never set w/open sights either). Get good groups then pop the scope back on and see what happens. Checking screws the whole time, etc.
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So, the last time I checked the screws, yesterday, they were tight. Shot for another half hour or so and then checked it again today. It was loose again. Will clean again and do it all over.
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Send it back!!!! It's been "bulletproofed"by the Hatsan "guru" and it ain't right. For the $120 you got charged for "bulletproof", that thing should be nothing but cock, load, shoot, smile. Drop it like a hot potato, the sooner the better.
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So, the last time I checked the screws, yesterday, they were tight. Shot for another half hour or so and then checked it again today. It was loose again. Will clean again and do it all over.
Is everything else tight?
You did have someone work on it ... perhaps they put it together wrong or left something out of it (lock washer, spacer, etc.). At this point if you can't find anything loose perhaps a full teardown inspection is called for. Most of what I suggested presumes the folks working on it before you got it didn't mess up, and simply flowed from an assumption on my part something you could test for or look for was causing the vibration.
Maybe if it was me I'd do what I seem to recall Pappy did, experimented with the gas ram pressure. Could be you were right - might be too high for the rest of the rifle design to handle the extra forces without detriment? If the scope's off it, everything's tight (including the barrel pivot), tissue test was good, pellet fit was good, and the thing is still vibrating to the point the Loctite won't keep that screw from vibrating out of it I'm at a loss without the ability to put my hands on it ... been messing with mechanical stuff as long as I can remember, almost half a century, but not enough experience to be much help at this point I'm afraid.
Hope you get her shooting!!!
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I'm going to give it one more college try with the locktite before I start the process to send it back. If I can get it then that will be weeks ahead of them putting it back in my hands. I was going to buy the locktite brand cleaner but Walmart didn't sell it.
Yogi, missed your question earlier, sorry. This is the backstop, bag of rubber mulch in a 5 gal bucket.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D4g57ObUWc# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D4g57ObUWc#)
and I printed up targets from here:
http://www.gr8fun.net/AirgunTargets/free-downloadable-airgun-targets-ezp-4.html (http://www.gr8fun.net/AirgunTargets/free-downloadable-airgun-targets-ezp-4.html)
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You can't wave a wand over an air gun and know what's going on. At least I can't.
Let me just take a minute to thank the greater GTA community because on about my first day here someone said, 'Whatever you budget for a gun make sure you get a chrony too.' and honestly I had never considered a chrony, didn't really know why I'd want a chrony, shot for years as a kid and teen w/o a chrony and figured it was just another boring math/science black hole to drag the fun out of shooting. With my sour attitude towards the device I begrudgingly admitted it would be good to have but stubbornly refused to pay for one. So I did the next best thing and traded a pellet gun for one. ;) Sure, it cost me some shipping but I thought that would be worth it. Well, with all the accuracy issues I've been having with this gun and knowing some of it was due to the trigger screw coming loose, I thought there could be other issues....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u2LJY70IO8# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u2LJY70IO8#)
I have sent an email to airgunproshop.com to ask about starting the return process and I want it returned for service, not a refund. I've also asked them to address the perpetual loose screw issue as well. It wouldn't surprise me if they're away for the holidays but it looks like my shooting has crawled to a halt for the next couple of weeks. Now I know why you guys have more than one gun. :)
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I have sent an email to airgunproshop.com to ask about starting the return process . . .
I have been watching this thread silently because I have little justification to offer any kind of advice about airguns, but this sounds like the right move to me. The way you have described your Hatsan has never sounded "right" to me in comparison to the one I got out of the box with no one looking it over (let alone refurbing and "bullet-proofing" it). I understand the feeling that, being the only one in the arsenal, it's worth well more than the budget price paid for it. I hope it gets back in your hands soon.
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Thanks. :) I'm going to box it up tomorrow and hopefully I'll have a call tag tomorrow or the next day. I'm also going pawn shopping tomorrow to see if I can't snag a cheap .22 air rifle. A whole other kind of hunting. I hope I bag a good one.
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Now I know why you guys have more than one gun. :)
Amen to that!
Is the only screw that comes loose the trigger-stock screw? Dollars to donuts, I bet the problem is with the stock :P
FWIW, on your video, your gun "sounds" right. I always thought those "refurbished" guns were a great deal, now maybe not so much...
-Y
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Oh, I think it's a good deal, I just know I am uniquely cursed with air guns. :) I have full faith that airgunproshop will sort it out and have it back to me as quick as they can.
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In letting my fingers do the walking (how old do you have to be to get that reference? ;) ) no .22's on the used market in town. About half the pawn shops have used pellet guns but all are .177. I just don't want to go back to those tiny pellets.
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Whelp GD we're always in similar boats.
I shipped mine via fedex an hour ago.
Suddenly my groupings went to absolute horse manure last night. I wasnt doing anything different. But i knew something was wrong. Sent it back. I'll be using my Remington for now. I'll get another Hatsan or 3 in the future, but for now I'll take my refund and use my Express.
And yes i checked the screws :)
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Do you have a chrony to check your speed? Are you saying the trigger screw was loose? If nothing else is wrong w/the gun the trigger screw should be able to be tightened up and all should be ok. My gun, from day one, has always been hard to cock, but never owning/shooting an AG this big before, never owning/shooting a gas ram before, I didn't know what to expect. The first weekend I had it I cocked it over 300 times and hurt my left bicep. I had to not shoot it for about 3 days to rest my arm. Then I went to cocking it w/2 hands, much better. But, I'd put the butt of the rifle on my thigh while seated or standing to cock it. That left bruises on my thigh. Apparently that's too much effort for it to cock, so I don't know how long my gun has been acting up. I was never really consistently accurate with it, but would always blame myself for that performance. Maybe it was the the gun.
At any rate, I'm still waiting for my RMA to ship it out. Maybe that will come today.
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Mine has never been hard enough to cock that needed 2 hands. Something was definitely wrong there.
I don't know what the issue is. All my screws were tight.But my groupings from day 1 are drastically diff compared to the previous nights.
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Mine has never been hard enough to cock that needed 2 hands. Something was definitely wrong there.
I don't know what the issue is. All my screws were tight.But my groupings from day 1 are drastically diff compared to the previous nights.
I think Glen had said part of his tune was increasing the pressure in the gas ram, no?
His description of getting bruised up cocking it definitely had me believing the effort was not normal ... I'm not big or muscular and cocking the Hatsan 125 is not nearly as big a deal.
Anyway, as folks read through these threads trying to decide if certain makes or models are suitable I hope when problems are discussed it remains clear not all of them are because the factory initially let a bad one get by QC. In Glen's case part of the issues may rest with the folks who did the tune for him. Hopefully they will tell him what they find and not just replace the rifle (and send it back to the factory).
My $.02 --- hopefully Glen will clarify if I got the facts wrong!
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I don't know that they did anything to the ram to increase the pressure. It was just a question. According to what the description of the service is they were to replace seals, so if a seal broke it was a brand new seal. I hope I do find out what happened. I'm still waiting on a RMA though.
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Neither my 95 or Edge are hard to cock and I'm an old fart. My XL1100, now that's better done with two hands--at least if I'm gonna shoot it for any length of time.
Ed
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I hit 11 pawn shops over 3 days and found nothing that I wanted to buy. Most didn't even have any air rifles. A couple only had new ones. .22 was very hard to find. Still waiting on my RMA from Hatsan.....
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I hit 11 pawn shops over 3 days and found nothing that I wanted to buy. Most didn't even have any air rifles. A couple only had new ones. .22 was very hard to find. Still waiting on my RMA from Hatsan.....
I'm just curious why .22 is important to you for a back-up shooter? I know you have had .177 in the past but I'm just wondering what you feel is lacking from that caliber. I know this might sound like a pointed question but it's really just simple curiosity. I got the Hatsan in .22, as well but have been thinking about a .177 back-up gun that I could use to teach myself to tear down and . . . well . . . likely ruin.
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I've shot .177 since the 70's and feel I've covered that ground. Also, I don't want to start doubling up on ammo. When I go PCP it will also be .22 although I know I'll have get some heavier lead for that. But, I hope when I dial it down it can still use the pellets I'm using for the Hatsan.
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I'm just curious how a defective stock can make the rear trigger guard screw come loose? Basically what area of the stock would be defective to cause this? Thanks
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I've shot .177 since the 70's and feel I've covered that ground. Also, I don't want to start doubling up on ammo. When I go PCP it will also be .22 although I know I'll have get some heavier lead for that. But, I hope when I dial it down it can still use the pellets I'm using for the Hatsan.
Makes sense. Thanks.
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So, the last time I checked the screws, yesterday, they were tight. Shot for another half hour or so and then checked it again today. It was loose again. Will clean again and do it all over.
Hey Glen--Just so you don't feel alone, I'm experiencing the same problem with that #@&* screw. I've cleaned both sets of threads with alcohol, then with acetone and applied locktite and that sucker keeps loosening up over and over. Yeah, I let the locktite cure for a day or longer. I actually put an allen head bolt in there to get a better grip on it. No joy. The shot cycle is smooth, she's shoots right on the money for anywhere between 12 and 25 shots then the nice tight groups go to #@** and I know it's loose again. VERY frustrating! >:( May be I need to weld it in place. ::)
Ed
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This is just an ongoing problem for all kinds of brands at various levels of guns. I was looking at getting a Weilrauch 95 but I've read folks who have the exact same issue. So here's a German gun that cost 3 times as much as mine and it's backing it's screws out too. Can't get to the PCP world fast enough. Of course then I'll just inherit whatever common perils they deal with. ;)
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You've got a point but none of my Benji/Crosman rifles loosen up their screws like the Hatsans and that includes my XL1100 which is definitely a magnum. I'm thinking the source of the problem may be the small surface area that the screw (or bolt) head contacts in the stock. ??? Who knows, but this is, as you said, nuts!
Ed
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Maybe try softbedding it, I softbedded my 350 Magnum and since I did it I don't bother putting locktite on the screws anymore and they don't come loose. There is still some residual locktite on the screws so that probably helps. Can't hurt to try it.
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That is certainly something worth investigating. I have a vague concept of what that is but not sure; I'll do some searching here. I'm not sure what the purposed behind soft bedding is either, but I know some here have done it and it helped for whatever reason they were wanting to try it.
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Here is the link if you did not find it. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=66631.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=66631.0)
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excellent. Thank you very much.
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I picked up some closed cell foam off ebay sometime back with the thought of soft bedding my Vantage. The Vantage settled down so I never proceeded with the bedding thing. I might try it with the 95 but it really doesn't feel like it shoots harshly at all. I don't have a lot of faith in it doing any good but I've sure been wrong before.
Ed
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
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You should think about getting a bit and driver set made for firearms use. Much better than using regular screwdrivers. The bits fit nice and tight with less chance of slippage.
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Is there a recommended place to purchase that?
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I bought my set at Cabelas but any firearms shop should have them.
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
Right you are on that. I've all ready chewed up that small screw head. Picked up an allen head replacement and put lock tite on it. I went to check it's tightness and can't turn it in any more so expect it to get chewed up on the way out as well. I've had years & years of experience dealing with small fasteners on motorcycles without messing them up. In my opinion that screw head size is too small to withstand much torgue. (The allen head is very small as well.)
Ed
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
Right you are on that. I've all ready chewed up that small screw head. Picked up an allen head replacement and put lock tite on it. I went to check it's tightness and can't turn it in any more so expect it to get chewed up on the way out as well. I've had years & years of experience dealing with small fasteners on motorcycles without messing them up. In my opinion that screw head size is too small to withstand much torgue. (The allen head is very small as well.)
Ed
That screw is definitely an accident waiting to happen for that gun if you want to remove the stock. What is the thread pitch on that screw and what length replacement allen head did you buy?
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
Right you are on that. I've all ready chewed up that small screw head. Picked up an allen head replacement and put lock tite on it. I went to check it's tightness and can't turn it in any more so expect it to get chewed up on the way out as well. I've had years & years of experience dealing with small fasteners on motorcycles without messing them up. In my opinion that screw head size is too small to withstand much torgue. (The allen head is very small as well.)
Ed
That screw is definitely an accident waiting to happen for that gun if you want to remove the stock. What is the thread pitch on that screw and what length replacement allen head did you buy?
I have the original and a spare allen head one which I'm sure I'll need but I just had a full knee replacement and I can't hobble to where they are. I'll get mama to get 'em for me tomorrow and let you know. ;)
Ed
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I second getting a gunsmithing set of tools...
I have the Chapman 7331 set. They have dozens of different sets. This one has all the sizes that I need.
Also, recommend getting an extra set of front and rear stock mounting bolts. Cheap and something that Hatsan will sell you.
-Y
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I think the erroneous data from crony was due to shooting too close to it. A good 5 to 10 ft distance will give no error message or odd data gained from air blast.
Glad you sent the gun back. I'd not have spent much time on it after having the tuning service done. It why you paid for the tuning service so there would be no problem. It's there problem not yours.
For tightening scopes something to keep in mind is to only use the small end of allen key to turn. That way you can't apply too much pressure and actually damage the scope. 18 ft-lbs is what scope rings are tightened to. If you hold the long end of allen key you'll easily make 30 ft-lbs and if crimp scope any void warranty. Hold small end and use lock-tite.
If you look you can find ubber sized screw drivers. I've some old tools from father and there were a few large head drivers that worked perfectly for front stock screw. Tuned my gun without gunsmith tools and didn't scratch it or strip anything. Work slow and think twice before doing and work over a thick towel is all you need. In your case Glen, you don't need to do anything as the tune is warrantied :P
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
Right you are on that. I've all ready chewed up that small screw head. Picked up an allen head replacement and put lock tite on it. I went to check it's tightness and can't turn it in any more so expect it to get chewed up on the way out as well. I've had years & years of experience dealing with small fasteners on motorcycles without messing them up. In my opinion that screw head size is too small to withstand much torgue. (The allen head is very small as well.)
Ed
That screw is definitely an accident waiting to happen for that gun if you want to remove the stock. What is the thread pitch on that screw and what length replacement allen head did you buy?
I have the original and a spare allen head one which I'm sure I'll need but I just had a full knee replacement and I can't hobble to where they are. I'll get mama to get 'em for me tomorrow and let you know. ;)
Ed
The OEM screw is a 3mmX5mm length with a star type lock washer that stays attached.
The replacement button head allen I used is a 3mm by about 7mm, the shortest they had. I put a star lock washer under it. After measuring it I'm thinking that I should have put 2 washers under it. It's possible the replacement may be bottoming out a bit to soon, not tightening the "nut" enough. I'm not 100% but I think the pitch is .50. ??? Hope this helps.
Ed
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That way you can't apply too much pressure and actually damage the scope. 18 ft-lbs is what scope rings are tightened to. If you hold the long end of allen key you'll easily make 30 ft-lbs and if crimp scope any void warranty. Hold small end and use lock-tite.
Gut2fish, don't you mean inch/lb ?
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That way you can't apply too much pressure and actually damage the scope. 18 ft-lbs is what scope rings are tightened to. If you hold the long end of allen key you'll easily make 30 ft-lbs and if crimp scope any void warranty. Hold small end and use lock-tite.
Gut2fish, don't you mean inch/lb ?
+1 I'm sure that's what he meant. ;)
Ed
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The thing that would make me nervous about removing the stock on the 95 is the front bolt. I hear it's pretty soft and easy to strip the heads. That would not be a fun thing to experience. On a lighter note, I guess, my 95 reached Hatsan repair today in shipping. So I guess it'll have the weekend to sit and reacquaint itself with all it's Hatsan brethren.
Right you are on that. I've all ready chewed up that small screw head. Picked up an allen head replacement and put lock tite on it. I went to check it's tightness and can't turn it in any more so expect it to get chewed up on the way out as well. I've had years & years of experience dealing with small fasteners on motorcycles without messing them up. In my opinion that screw head size is too small to withstand much torgue. (The allen head is very small as well.)
Ed
That screw is definitely an accident waiting to happen for that gun if you want to remove the stock. What is the thread pitch on that screw and what length replacement allen head did you buy?
I have the original and a spare allen head one which I'm sure I'll need but I just had a full knee replacement and I can't hobble to where they are. I'll get mama to get 'em for me tomorrow and let you know. ;)
Ed
The OEM screw is a 3mmX5mm length with a star type lock washer that stays attached.
The replacement button head allen I used is a 3mm by about 7mm, the shortest they had. I put a star lock washer under it. After measuring it I'm thinking that I should have put 2 washers under it. It's possible the replacement may be bottoming out a bit to soon, not tightening the "nut" enough. I'm not 100% but I think the pitch is .50. ??? Hope this helps.
Ed
That is very helpful. Thanks Ed!
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Sure would like to find flat screwdrivers with oversize heads like Garrett's Dad left him for the bolt head and nut used at the front of the stock. Hard to get a lot of torque when using only one side of the "slot". I've searched with no luck.
Ed
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Yer welcome!
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So how can you tell exactly how tight to tighten the rear trigger guard bolt? Mine loosened up after about 75 shots, in fact it almost fell out before I realized it was loose. I should have realized it because I had noticed that the way the gun was cocking felt different. I put a drop of blue loktite on it and tightened the bolt but I expected it to tighten down like a normal bolt but after tightening it quite a few turns and feeling it tighten somewhat I heard what sounded like wood splintering on the last quarter turn so I backed it out a quarter turn and left it to dry overnight. That was a couple weeks ago and it hasn't loosened since as far as I can tell. Not having taken the stock off I'm trying to figure out what tightens down against what? Is the bolt tightening the trigger guard against the wooden stock and that's the noise I heard? I don't think I screwed up the stock since the bolt hasn't loosened, the gun seems to be shooting fine and I don't get any sense of anything being loose causing more vibration or flex anywhere. Thanks
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If it's not moving on you and your groups are tight you're good. I think in my case I just didn't clean the bolt good enough and I certainly didn't clean the threaded hole at all.
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One more thing on the loctite, make sure you shake the bottle good before use.
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My 95 had a failed gas ram. They have no replacement rams or guns to ship me at this time. Trying to get a ball park on when they might be getting more in. This is exactly why I don't buy lottery tickets. :( I'm not soured on the brand; I have a used Hatsan AT44 PCP on the way to me in a few days but I mean there ARE other ways around this.
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Jeeze Glen, for what you paid for your 95 with that Hatsan super-duper tuning service, they ought to find you a brand new rifle SOMEWHERE and hand deliver it to you! Pretty poor service IMO. You'd think that they'd have an inventory on hand for situations like this. Not good at all........ ::)
Good luck!
Ed
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yeah, I'm waiting to hear about a ball park time line and if it's unreasonable I'm going to suggest, strongly, they either get a new one from a dealer and do their Factory Bulletproof to it and ship it to me or refund me everything immediately. I want this to work, I'd like to own the Hatsan but if I do get a refund I'll probably be hanging out in the German forum. ;)
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My 95 had a failed gas ram. They have no replacement rams or guns to ship me at this time. Trying to get a ball park on when they might be getting more in. This is exactly why I don't buy lottery tickets. :( I'm not soured on the brand; I have a used Hatsan AT44 PCP on the way to me in a few days but I mean there ARE other ways around this.
At least you have heard from them but what a bummer. That has to be discouraging. Let us know how how the PCP works out. That used option kind of makes me Leary.
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I don't want this thread to turn into a dealer/brand issue thread. There's another gate for that. :) I'll continue to say that I hope I can end up with a 95 soon and be back on my road to AG enjoyment.
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yeah, I'm waiting to hear about a ball park time line and if it's unreasonable I'm going to suggest, strongly, they either get a new one from a dealer and do their Factory Bulletproof to it and ship it to me or refund me everything immediately. I want this to work, I'd like to own the Hatsan but if I do get a refund I'll probably be hanging out in the German forum. ;)
Totally understandable. I was leaning towards the German option to begin with but for the price difference and the special pricing going on at the time I thought I would try the Hatsan 95 first.
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How's yours working out?
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My 95 had a failed gas ram. They have no replacement rams or guns to ship me at this time. Trying to get a ball park on when they might be getting more in. This is exactly why I don't buy lottery tickets. :( I'm not soured on the brand; I have a used Hatsan AT44 PCP on the way to me in a few days but I mean there ARE other ways around this.
I don't get it. Hopefully someone reading in will enlighten us how this can cause a rougher than usual shot cycle. If it leaked and the gun was at least lube tuned, it should shot more docile, if over pressure it's not defective and they could just relieve some pressure. Most hydrolic systems with a failure of some sort don't behave differently between "excitation cycles" - or at least this is the part that makes me suspect they didn't diagnose the situation correctly. I mean yeah, a crack in the mount could cause vibration, but with the stresses involved you'd think failure would be quick, catastrophic, and the results would be felt in cocking too.
I'm clueless (as usual). :-[
So, AT44 PCB ... went to the dark side, eh? Now you will have pumps and compressed air in your future ::)
I hope you get up and running and get hold of something that shoots true, I know what it's like to go a very long period without a good shooter --- good luck Glen!
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You know, to have a failed ram the thing was still moving .22 CPHP's at 530fps. Even broken it could take out a squirrel; if you could hit it. ;)
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well, now they say they accidentally confused me and another customer and my gun is actually due for service tomorrow and could ship back to me tomorrow. So I don't know what the issue is I guess. I just hope it doesn't need the gas ram that's not in stock. But, over all, that's a much better outlook for me. I could have it back next week.
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well, now they say they accidentally confused me and another customer and my gun is actually due for service tomorrow and could ship back to me tomorrow. So I don't know what the issue is I guess. I just hope it doesn't need the gas ram that's not in stock. But, over all, that's a much better outlook for me. I could have it back next week.
Maybe they monitor this forum? ??? Hope so. I like my Hatsans a LOT (except for that darn back stock screw that won't stay tight) and I understand any product can be a lemon but they should take care of you if you get one. Hope you're shooting the 95 accurately SOON.
Ed
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How's yours working out?
Working out good except for front guard trigger screw keeps working loose which is disappointing. Still have time to return for exchange since I filed complaint. Good shooter though and so far scope is holding up.
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I'm watching this thread for the very same reason. I'm hoping they can address the screw issue while they've got it at Hatsan, but just in case...
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102377.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102377.0)
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well, now they say they accidentally confused me and another customer and my gun is actually due for service tomorrow and could ship back to me tomorrow. So I don't know what the issue is I guess. I just hope it doesn't need the gas ram that's not in stock. But, over all, that's a much better outlook for me. I could have it back next week.
OK, looks like the only ones confused were the folks doing inventory control at Hatsan. Yeah, gotta say your issue looks like anything else BUT a ram issue (unless overpressurized). I'm going to guess something's broke, maybe the bushing in the SAS, maybe a crack in the stock, piston, or seal, but I'm almost willing to bet it's going to be something visible when they tear it down for inspection. Hopefully they will be up front with you on what is wrong and if their prior tune had anything to do with the problem.
Hope you get her back in good repair and it's accurate ;D ;D ;D
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They said it was a defective seal. I should have it back Monday.
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They said it was a defective seal. I should have it back Monday.
Good news!
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Hello, I'm new to the forum but have been following this thread. I am glad to hear you are getting your rifle back soon. Your pellets are begging to be shot.
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You would think that checking/replacing the piston seal, and ALL other seals would be part of the "tune"! If the gun were just off the rack, I could understand it. When you buy a refurbished gun you have to think that somebody else bought it first and returned it for some reason. Unless some tears the thing apart and checks everything, they are just recycling a defective gun.
Glen, your patience though out this whole ordeal should be commended.
I would have blown a seal a long time ago. >:( >:( >:(
-Y
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I think they actually replace all the seals and rings as a part of the service but if it was defective it failed weeks after they did the work. I had the gun 3 weeks before it failed. That can happen.
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I don't want to give myself the kiss of death , but so I guess I have been lucky, my Edges have worked perfectly as have my two 95's and my 125.
Sometimes stuff happens, so far the only thing i don't like about Hatsan is they don't have a parts department for you to do your own repair, and they don't sell Vortex rams so you can have one as a backup !
wll2506
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I was talking to Jeff last night in chat and he said if your ram fails replace it with a Crosman nitro ram.