South Bend 9a Restoration
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South Bend 9a Restoration
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Topic: South Bend 9a Restoration (Read 529 times))
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
yes
Real Name: Karl
South Bend 9a Restoration
«
on:
February 21, 2022, 11:09:47 PM »
I got this at an auction (pic #1)(not including taper shank chucks). Was missing the tailstock, end gears, compound, motor drive, and end gear cover. I didn't pay that much. there was a ton of South Bend parts etc at this auction. I bought a tailstock from another guy at the auction. He bought it earlier in the day. Then I realized it is the original tailstock to my lathe. Lucky, it was hand scraped and fitted to this bed. The original hand scraping is nearly perfect(pic #2). The original scraping under the saddle is still there (pic #3). You never see this. Always worn away. The original contact is only the four corners so it wears away soon. The cross slide scraping is all there(pic #4). Inside the Quick change is still clean inside (pic #5). So was the apron. This lathe had never cut any metal. It had an apparatus for winding thread on spools instead of a compound rest and a strange chain and sprocket drive adapted to the cone pulley. It came special ordered that way from SB. Also special order is the rare hardened bed. X's in the serial number at the right end of the bed (beside the lead screw bracket screws) mean special order on a South Bend. This one has two X's in the serial number. End of day at the auction on the last table is a very dirty SB9 motor drive unit with a huge 2 phase (yes 2 phase) motor. Can't believe it. I scored it for $5! Painted in Sherwin William oil paint custom matched original color (pic #6)
I'll add more to the post later. Thanks for looking.
«
Last Edit: February 21, 2022, 11:12:35 PM by KWK
»
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USA, PA, Camp Hill
JuryRigger
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GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4008
Pop-Whiz-Clunk! :D
Real Name: Jesse
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #1 on:
February 22, 2022, 10:09:04 AM »
Wow!
I think that takes the prize for score of the year!!!!
Congrats-will be watching to see it all come together...
Jesse
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Ohio
"Genius errs, if possible, more badly than pedantry. But mathematics, properly directed, cannot fail"-Captain Nemo
"Numbers don't lie until they're cherry-picked statistics"-Forest Addy
"You've got to keep your ego in check!"-Paul Harrell
"If you are trained, you will do what you're trained to do-if you're untrained you'll flop around like a fish"-Paul Harrell
sb327
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Real Name: David
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #2 on:
February 22, 2022, 10:24:19 AM »
A steal for sure.
Dave
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USA, OK, Stigler
Dave
eeler1
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Real Name: Jon
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #3 on:
February 22, 2022, 02:47:42 PM »
The saddle usually wears unevenly. If you have even scraping at all parts of the saddle, it would tend to indicate light use, a good thing.
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West Sacramento, CA
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
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Real Name: Karl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #4 on:
February 24, 2022, 12:44:40 AM »
I upgraded the tailstock with a dial from a 10k. I had to make a longer feed screw so the dial fits between the hand wheel and tailstock. South Bend 9 doesn't have the dial. First I had to grind an Acme thread form bit. The screw is left hand thread. I put the toolpost on the back side so I could machine toward the headstock. Ran the spindle in reverse. Here I am cutting the acme thread. Using my other South Bend 9a. Never hurts to have two! Backlash on the new screw is .002. It fit on the first attempt with the quill. Only needed deburred. Very slight polish with 400 grit. I always strive for a good finish. Don't like to have to polish my parts. Perfectly calculated the thread depth. (that means lucky!) Thanks for looking
«
Last Edit: February 24, 2022, 01:08:52 AM by KWK
»
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USA, PA, Camp Hill
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
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Real Name: Karl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #5 on:
February 24, 2022, 12:58:40 AM »
Now to machine the other end for the dial and handwheel. Getting a great finish spot on .500. The hand wheel slides on with slight drag. No wiggle. Pilot drilling for the taper pin that holds the handwheel on using my cross drilling vise. Finished screw. Not polished! Thanks for looking
«
Last Edit: February 24, 2022, 01:12:45 AM by KWK
»
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USA, PA, Camp Hill
Bob Pratl
Expert
Posts: 1306
Real Name: Bob Pratl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #6 on:
February 24, 2022, 05:08:51 AM »
Karl, very nice machining and restoration. You can't beat those old South Bends.
I retired mine a few years back because of excessive bed wear and it was cost
prohibited to have the bed repaired.
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Gloucester,Massachusetts
.257 JSAR Raptor HP Slug
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Vintage: MK II(.177), 78G(.22), 101(.22)
Wayne52
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Gone but not forgotten!!!
Real Name: Wayne
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #7 on:
February 24, 2022, 07:36:19 AM »
Awesome score on that old lathe for sure !!!
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USA, MI, Grand Rapids
HHDSUPCOM Cam Rahn Bay VN 71-72
My F10 Shoebox rocks
JuryRigger
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Posts: 4008
Pop-Whiz-Clunk! :D
Real Name: Jesse
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #8 on:
February 24, 2022, 12:10:30 PM »
Very nice work indeed!
Jesse
Logged
Ohio
"Genius errs, if possible, more badly than pedantry. But mathematics, properly directed, cannot fail"-Captain Nemo
"Numbers don't lie until they're cherry-picked statistics"-Forest Addy
"You've got to keep your ego in check!"-Paul Harrell
"If you are trained, you will do what you're trained to do-if you're untrained you'll flop around like a fish"-Paul Harrell
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
yes
Real Name: Karl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #9 on:
February 24, 2022, 02:27:50 PM »
Things get interesting. When I removed the spindle I found the outboard journal capillary felt depressed in the hole to the oil cellar. Was not touching or feeding oil to the bearing surface! Fortunately no damage. Notice the SB9 lathe spindle runs directly in the cast iron headstock. No replaceable bearings. And it works. I cleaned the felt wicks and oil wells with mineral spirits and put them aside until reassembly time.
Next issue is this special order lathe came with a model C apron even though it has a model A QC gearbox. Another oddity is that the leadscrew bracket never had it's babbit poured in. The leadscrew kind of dangled at that end. The babbit would have been poured last after the lathe is assembled for proper alignment. IDK?
So I bought an "excellent" Model A apron from a rated eBag seller. Not so excellent. The power feed worm and wormwheel were badly worn as most of them are because most owners never service the apron by cleaning the swarf from the reservoir and replenishing the oil. Had to send that one back. Found one with good feed parts and bought it for a much better price anyway. Sold the nearly pristine Model C apron with the handwheel but kept the hardly used spare halfnuts. Now I assembled the carriage and mounted the QC box. Find out the leadscrew isn't lining up. Great! Compared measurements to my other SB9A to find out the leadscrew is .040 too low. What? Why? Don't know but had to machine .040 from the mounting surface. This is making me worry a little, Huh? So how do I hold this gearbox in my Enco mill? Chucked onto a boss on the left side with a rotary table. Made a bushing to fit a hole on the other side and supported with a tailstock. Now I indicated in and took off the .040. It worked! Relief. This ain't no "rattle can restoration". Thank you
Notice there is no model # or bed length stamped on the original gearbox plate. Was left blank.
«
Last Edit: February 24, 2022, 02:31:31 PM by KWK
»
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USA, PA, Camp Hill
JuryRigger
NUAH Club Member
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4008
Pop-Whiz-Clunk! :D
Real Name: Jesse
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #10 on:
February 24, 2022, 03:08:26 PM »
More good work...
Do you plan to pour Babbitt for the leadscrew bracket, or do you have another solution planned?
Jesse
Logged
Ohio
"Genius errs, if possible, more badly than pedantry. But mathematics, properly directed, cannot fail"-Captain Nemo
"Numbers don't lie until they're cherry-picked statistics"-Forest Addy
"You've got to keep your ego in check!"-Paul Harrell
"If you are trained, you will do what you're trained to do-if you're untrained you'll flop around like a fish"-Paul Harrell
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
yes
Real Name: Karl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #11 on:
February 24, 2022, 04:46:39 PM »
I built this lathe about two years ago. I'll talk about the lead screw then. What I did with modern tech. Epoxy...
The other place babbit was poured was to locate the hinge pin for the end gear cover. They held the cover in place and poured the babbit so the cover aligned correctly. The babbit did not act as a bearing for the cover. It "soldered" the pin in place solidly. The buried end of this pin is heavily knurled for grip in the babbit. Early end gear covers are cast iron. Later are Aluminum. All used this method for mounting.
See the pin in the Foe toe? And the bed bracket that forms the hinge. Did I ramble?
«
Last Edit: February 24, 2022, 04:51:34 PM by KWK
»
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USA, PA, Camp Hill
JuryRigger
NUAH Club Member
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4008
Pop-Whiz-Clunk! :D
Real Name: Jesse
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #12 on:
February 24, 2022, 05:17:26 PM »
I see now-thanks for the clarification-sorry that I misunderstood.
Jesse
Logged
Ohio
"Genius errs, if possible, more badly than pedantry. But mathematics, properly directed, cannot fail"-Captain Nemo
"Numbers don't lie until they're cherry-picked statistics"-Forest Addy
"You've got to keep your ego in check!"-Paul Harrell
"If you are trained, you will do what you're trained to do-if you're untrained you'll flop around like a fish"-Paul Harrell
KWK
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 593
yes
Real Name: Karl
Re: South Bend 9a Restoration
«
Reply #13 on:
February 24, 2022, 11:32:45 PM »
With the gearbox and leadscrew nearly sorted I turned my attention to the lead screw bracket. With no easy way to pour babbit into the bracket installed on the bed. I just turned a brass bushing and epoxied it into the bracket. With the carriage all the way to the right and the halfnuts engaged I injected quickset epoxy into a hole drilled in the bracket until it oozed out the ends. Used a larger syringe made for giving babies medicine. Let it set a few minutes before disassembling to trim up the excess with a razor blade. Did something similar when I mounted the end gear cover that I had to source on eBag. Picked up a very nice compound on eBag that had never been fed to the chuck and very little backlash in the screw and nut. A fair amount of compounds available with low use but most have chuck bites. Homey just don't play that! Upgraded the feed dial to a larger one I got on of course eBag. Normally fairly expensive but it came on a very scrappy chuck bitten compound and needed a little TLC but came out very nice. I threw the crappy compound in the scrap metal. Notice the painted compound. Paint a little sloppy. When oil paint isn't completely cured (but not at all tacky or gummy!) yet I just scrape that off with a razor blade to a very fine line. Don't waste my time taping edges unnecessarily. This is easier and comes out cleaner.
Carriage lock was missing but I had a spare one so only had to make the bolt. Case hardened it with Casenit. Has an oxide color now. Scored a very good Craftsman 3 jaw chuck at a show for easy money. Made by Atlas. Good USA medium duty . Very nice condition and not a compound eater! I had to relieve the register slightly to fit my spindle. Had to eBag a few end gears so I bought a bunch and transposing gears so now I can do metric. Scored a thread dial for the right price. I cut a lot of threads.
Took my time and eBagged when the price and the part was right. Mounted an older Craftsman motor that I had to add two pigtails to the start windings to enable forward and reverse operation through my drum switch. Some of the vintage Craftsman motors run very quiet. This is a quiet running lathe. Just a little end gear jingle and I am going to improve on that even more. Thinking about running nylon end gears.
Thanks for looking
Logged
USA, PA, Camp Hill
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South Bend 9a Restoration