GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: YEMX on July 20, 2021, 12:23:34 AM
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I just received my new (to me) Flex!! Serial Number 30!! I'm stoked! I've wanted one since they first came out (and stupidly kept trying to build my own versions). No major plans, just disassemble and clean, replace o-rings and a fresh paint job. Planned work:
Smaller bottle- 420cc vs 500cc. Better fit w/the barrel (Barrel is 16.5" OAL)
New grip (My favorite grip- MPA Enhanced Vertical Grip won't work. Trigger's set too far back)
New butt-stock (haven't decided whether or not to make this one a folder- It's short as-is)
MAYBE a Cothran valve and MDS hammer
That's it for now. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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Can relate .... running with a balanced valve & light MDS hammer / SSG my own WAR Flex with a 17" TJ in .30 cruses along at @ 78 fpe with stellar efficiency
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Can relate .... running with a balanced valve & light MDS hammer / SSG my own WAR Flex with a 17" TJ in .30 cruses along at @ 78 fpe with stellar efficiency
This is the goal!!
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Congrats on the new rifle Tom. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
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Congrats on the new rifle Tom. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
Danke!!
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Tom, congratulations!
I just can't see the picture.
Hunter
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Tom, congratulations!
I just can't see the picture.
Hunter
I haven't posted any yet LOL Here's a "before" picture.
(https://i.imgur.com/XMxayCc.jpg)
I've ordered a new grip to try, since my FAVORITE grip won't work (Masterpiece Arms Enhanced Vertical Grip). I've ordered a MDT Vertical Grip Premier, because it's adjustable forward and back. I'm hoping there's enough adjustment to make trigger engagement more comfortable. The trigger is set back a touch too far for my liking.
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That is so COOL! Cant wait to see you do your magic! Brings back memories.
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That is so COOL! Cant wait to see you do your magic! Brings back memories.
I'm excited as well. It'll be a very simple build. Also, a single color paint job. I've ordered a Silent Thunder Ordnance Falx to try out on this build. Lets see how it sounds. More to come!
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Well, I've got her mostly disassembled. I've gotten to a good stopping point, and I'll either do a little more tonight, or simply continue tomorrow.
- The tube is DEFINITELY bespoke to the Flex- it's not just a Brod tube.
- I've carefully bent the safety lever so it clears the main tube. It would be cool if there were an extended version. I think because all the pressure is put right on the tip of the safety lever, it bends the lever and it makes contact w/the tube eventually. I MIGHT open up that side panel so I can engage the safety as it's designed to be. I am NOT sure about this idea yet.
Anyone know of a source for those thicker than normal snap rings (cir-clip?) that WAR used? I haven't gotten the barrel out yet, so I'm not sure of it's dimensions. I was just wondering if any Flex owners knew off hand what snap ring (cir-clip) to buy for a .30 barrel.
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Measure it and ill check my stash.
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I'm still looking for my snap-ring pliers ::) ;D I haven't gotten to stripping the breech just yet.
DON'T MIND THE MESS!! I've got most of the other parts cleaned up though. This is just initial stripping, I'll for sure clean all these parts better just before paint. I'm going to cold blue the main tube, and not paint it. Most everything else will be O.D. green.
(https://i.imgur.com/0UtMzE2.jpg)
Slowly but surely. I'm going to make a new TP, the one in the gun has a few more beauty marks than I'd like to see.
I'm NOT going to put a folding adapter on this rifle. I am going to use a MDT chassis stock I have in my parts bin though. I will have to drill and tap for an anchor screw for the "buffer tube".
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If you ever decide to sell or trade it please contact me.
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If you ever decide to sell or trade it please contact me.
I'll keep you in mind, but I'm pretty sure this one is going to stay with me for a good long time!!
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Tom, you're not kidding about that tube, that is thick! It must be a piece of oilfield drillstem or something.
Hunter
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Tom, you're not kidding about that tube, that is thick! It must be a piece of oilfield drillstem or something.
Hunter
yano, I didn't even notice how thick it was! I'll throw some calipers on there and get a bad measurement to compare tubes...
I'm going to get some more work done on the gun today...
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Looks like the snap ring that came with the gun is .05", and the 2nd washer is .03". So altogether, I'll need a snap ring that's .08" thick. I'm going to take a look at McMaster Carr to see what they've got.
Man! So many little details in this gun!! Here's some pics of the breech and barrel collar (not sure what else to call it):
(https://i.imgur.com/bE9qJGe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0uovvyJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8iBf3c2.jpg)
It fits in the breech a little more loose than I'd like, I'm going to bed the collar into the breech so it's nice and tight. It's got some nicks around the front end, so I'll carefully smooth it out and fill those in prior to bedding.
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I cannot for the life of me find .08" thick snap rings. I'll VERY carefully angle the barrel port as needed when using a .05" snap ring. The .05" are readily available. I only have to clearance the barrel port ever so slightly. It'll be fiiiiiiiine.
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That collar is supposed to be attached to the barrel it keeps it from twisting when you tension it. DONOT make it snug in the breech.
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That collar is supposed to be attached to the barrel it keeps it from twisting when you tension it. DONOT make it snug in the breech.
The collar will still attach to the barrel- I'm not changing anything. Currently, there's enough play so there IS twist while tensioning. Hence why I want to bed the collar to the breech, so there won't be any twisting... Am I missing something?
Barrel port mod complete, looks gorgeous now. I'll polish it up later.
Is there a list somewhere of all the o-ring sizes the Flex uses? Duro ratings suggested? I'm guessing it's 70 duro unless otherwise specified?
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The list of o-rings I have:
The bottle to nipple, and nipple to reg block o-rings are – 116
The transfer port o-rings are - 011
External barrel & regulator piston is - 012
Internal barrel
.22 cal. - 009
.25 cal. - 010
.30 cal. - 011
Valve and reg block inside reservoir: - 118
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Dang man, you just can't quit can you! lol
Have been looking at a .30, but I honestly don't need one at this point. Though they look just so darn fun as well
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I cannot for the life of me find .08" thick snap rings.
Maybe 2 mm?
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I cannot for the life of me find .08" thick snap rings.
Maybe 2 mm?
I solved the issue- I CAREFULLY clearanced the barrel port so a HD .05" thick snap ring will work. Best part is, it's a common item. No worries about getting them.
Dang man, you just can't quit can you! lol
Nope! An opportunity came up and I snapped this Flex up. I couldn't say no! I even tried to at first! But the Flex (especially in a .30) has been kind of a holy grail gun for me.
The list of o-rings I have:
The bottle to nipple, and nipple to reg block o-rings are – 116
The transfer port o-rings are - 011
External barrel & regulator piston is - 012
Internal barrel
.22 cal. - 009
.25 cal. - 010
.30 cal. - 011
Valve and reg block inside reservoir: - 118
Most excellent! Thank you, that list is very much appreciated!
So I've been looking over the gun and all the parts and such, and I've decided to just keep the Flex stock. Once I finish cleaning and polishing everything, I think I'll be satisfied. I got to bench building and put the cart before the horse. I honestly just want to shoot the gun. I'd have to make a SSG/spring adjuster and a completely new TP. Why do all that, when I already have all the parts and I know they all work. Plus the gun was originally tuned right about where I want it to be, so I know the parts I have are capable. I'm going to stick to the overall clean, lube and re-assemble idea that I originally had.
Pretty much everything is painted. I'm going to leave them alone for 10-14 days to cure.
(https://i.imgur.com/MIc06JW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IkPR1up.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y3koPkr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/soGnXQa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h60shus.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RGlWoYb.jpg)
Yep. Dirt simple paint job. Yes, I have painted the barrel shroud- it's just not pictured. As you can see, I decided to paint the main tube instead of cold bluing. I don't have any cold blue on hand, and it's just more simple to paint it. Anyhoo, I still have some things to clean and polish. Once these painted pieces have fully cured, I'll do a more thorough cleaning of the insides where applicable. Then just order up some o-rings so everything's nice and fresh, make sure there's no burrs or sharp edges, and then I can finally re-assemble!! I'm pretty excited!
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
Tubes are the same with the Warp shorter as you suspect. I am running a Flex air tube on my .22 Warp.
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
Flex tube is a touch under 11"
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Tom, you're not kidding about that tube, that is thick! It must be a piece of oilfield drillstem or something.
Hunter
I compared the tube to my Brod tube, and they're darn near the same thickness... I don't remember the Mrod's tube being so thick. I guess it's been a while since I've messed with one... Or I've messed with so many I've stopped noticing! LOL
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
Flex tube is a touch under 11"
Thanks. The my WarP is 9”. I think another 2” of plenum volume would make a pretty good difference.
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
Flex tube is a touch under 11"
Thanks. The my WarP is 9”. I think another 2” of plenum volume would make a pretty good difference.
About 28cc's worth, if I'm not mistaken.
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Could you measure the air tube?? I’d like to see the difference between the Flex & WarP. I’ve got a WarP & think the plenum volume isn’t enough for higher power.
Flex tube is a touch under 11"
Thanks. The my WarP is 9”. I think another 2” of plenum volume would make a pretty good difference.
About 28cc's worth, if I'm not mistaken.
What kind of speed difference would that make??
A WAR rifle was my dream rifle when they came out & knew I could never afford one. But I stumbled across one in a horse trade. That’s how I ended up with mine. It’s a .25 cal, but I’d really like a .22 slug barrel for it.
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If they are the same ID as the marauder it is 14 cc's per inch. So 28 cc's would make a huge difference.
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What kind of speed difference would that make??
Plenum size doesn't necessarily translate directly into a velocity increase. More plenum would allow for slightly higher output pressure from the reg w/o a drop in shot count (that is- when compared to a factory WarP tube). That slightly higher reg output pressure could net higher velocity though. But I digress- there's no real way to answer your question. It'll be about how you tune the gun w/the larger plenum.
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*sigh* I've been mulling it over, and I'm just going to go ahead and get a Cothran valve when the become available again. There's no point in assembling and tuning only to disassemble it all again a month or two down the road to install the Cothran. I'll just build it the way I want the first time and call it done.
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My new grip has come in. I'll need to get a new mounting screw though :( I'll have to go to McMaster though. I already know nothing local will have a screw like that. But I think it'll work out! I believe there'll be enough adjustment to get the perfect LOP on the trigger...
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Okay! Got some HD retaining rings on order. I don't think I'll have to place an order for these for a good while.
The grip screw threads are 1/4-20. I have to order one (or rather, a pack of 10 ::) ) from McMaster because I won't be able to find one locally.
I've got some nylon coming in so I can make a new spring guide insert for the RVA screw.
Thanks to Fuzzygrub, I was able to order a 3" long spring that's as close to factory Mrod spec as possible- Many thanks to Fuzzy!! Unfortunately, these springs come in a pack of 6 ::) Not sure what I'm going to use 5 3" long Mrod hammer springs for ::) LOL
Here in a few days (once the paint has fully cured), I'm going to bed the barrel collar so I don't any twist when tightening the barrel.
All that's left as far as changes and such will be to get a hold of a Cothran valve (not sure when I'll be able to do this), and make a TP for it. Everything else is simply cleaning, changing o-rings and lube. We're getting there!!
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Be glad to see this thing all together. This thread made think about my WarP, when I get back into town I’m gonna tear it down & paint it. I’m gonna do black with stainless fasteners. Just not sure if I’m gonna go satin or gloss black.
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Be glad to see this thing all together. This thread made think about my WarP, when I get back into town I’m gonna tear it down & paint it. I’m gonna do black with stainless fasteners. Just not sure if I’m gonna go satin or gloss black.
I'll be glad when it's all together and shooting as well. There's a few things yet to do, but we're getting there!
I can't advise on paint, because apparently a LOT of people hate my color choices/schemes LOL Or the fact that I paint my stuff at all! LOL
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What’s the difference between the Cothran valve & the Cobra valve?? Mines got the Cobra but don’t really the difference between all the valves.
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What’s the difference between the Cothran valve & the Cobra valve?? Mines got the Cobra but don’t really the difference between all the valves.
AKA: Cobra valve is a conventional Knock Open poppet design having a pneumatic air spring chamber that retains pressure forcing the poppet to close quicker.
Balanced valves are a different animal having AREA of a poppet head isolated from pressure ( For easier opening ) and also gaining massive dwell / flow potential using lighter hammer & spring combinations.
* Cothran and the now obsolete JSAR valves while both being AKA: balanced valves ... operate very differently.
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Basically, Cothran valves are super easy open valves that produce lots of power easily. Very easy to cock as well. Cobra valves operate different and don't make as much power. I do not believe one is superior to the other, they simply serve different purposes.
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Good call on Fuzzygrub's part- the [hammer] spring he suggested from McMaster is spot on!! I got my McMaster order delivered today. I've got this new grip mounted, and I think it's going to work out perfectly. There's still more than enough adjustment in the grip to really fine-tune the LOP between the trigger and grip. The only thing I don't like is there's not a substantial thumb shelf... But there's enough of one to comfortably shoot, so it's fine. I'm diggin' it!
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Good call on Fuzzygrub's part- the [hammer] spring he suggested from McMaster is spot on!! I got my McMaster order delivered today. I've got this new grip mounted, and I think it's going to work out perfectly. There's still more than enough adjustment in the grip to really fine-tune the LOP between the trigger and grip. The only thing I don't like is there's not a substantial thumb shelf... But there's enough of one to comfortably shoot, so it's fine. I'm diggin' it!
Pictures of that new grip installed. I’m thinking of getting one for my WarP. Also throw that thing together & shoot it!! I’d like to know how it shoots, I’m thinking of having a .30 barrel made for mine.
Does it have to Cobra valve??
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Good call on Fuzzygrub's part- the [hammer] spring he suggested from McMaster is spot on!! I got my McMaster order delivered today. I've got this new grip mounted, and I think it's going to work out perfectly. There's still more than enough adjustment in the grip to really fine-tune the LOP between the trigger and grip. The only thing I don't like is there's not a substantial thumb shelf... But there's enough of one to comfortably shoot, so it's fine. I'm diggin' it!
Pictures of that new grip installed. I’m thinking of getting one for my WarP. Also throw that thing together & shoot it!! I’d like to know how it shoots, I’m thinking of having a .30 barrel made for mine.
Does it have to Cobra valve??
I'll get some pics up soon... It does have a Cobra valve, but I'm going to swap over to a Cothran...
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Sorry for the poor pic. If you look at the top slot, there's still more adjustment left. More than enough LOP adjustment!
(https://i.imgur.com/AQqrWzW.jpg)
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Yea the LOP is very short on mine as well. This prompted me to fabricate a trigger shoe to increase the distance.
Tried a bunch AR grips having this multi panel, spine "CAA" grip to have the most set back along with comfort options.
CAA grip: (https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/n-zfvgw8/g64i9l/products/120/images/22092/CAA-UPG16_1__40709.1532566008.1280.1280.JPG?c=2)
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I like that Scott!! And the gun looks sick👍🏻
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Yeah, Scott's WarP is the bee's knees!!
The Flex came with a grip similar in shape to the one you have Scott- just w/o the swappable panels. It was too short of a LOP for me, hence going on a search for an adjustable grip. The one I chose seemed to be the best choice for me. Again, only real grip is the size of the thumb shelf. But to be fair, the grip was designed to go with an MDT chassis, which has a built-in thumb shelf... I still do like the grip so far. I won't really know how comfy the grip is until I'm behind the gun shooting it.
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That is an older pic, and now it sports the FLEX trigger frame too. Had been using the Flex air tube for a couple years now.
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Sorry for the poor pic. If you look at the top slot, there's still more adjustment left. More than enough LOP adjustment!
(https://i.imgur.com/AQqrWzW.jpg)
I like it. Will be definitely checking one out.
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Flex will be going back together soon... I haven't heard back from Mr. Cothran. I'll cross my fingers and hope all is doing okay with him.
I have a Cothran valve here that I'll use. I was going through the parts today, just to re-familiarize myself with them, and I picked up both the original hammer that came w/the Flex, and the MDS I was planning on using... I had this strange urge to weigh them both, as they felt similar. Come to find out, they weigh the same: 2 ounces, or 56 grams.
I'm itching to shoot this gun, so It's gonna be real simple. No SSG. I will have to re-make the TP, and I'm going to bed the barrel collar (I'm NOT epoxying the collar to the breech!) so there's no wiggle. As it stands, there's more play than I'd like. I'll post some pics of the work I'll have to do. But the Flex will be back together soon!!
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WATCH OUT for the triggers hold sear CLIMBING UP on the side of an MDS hammer. The sear that holds the hammer cocked has VERY LITTLE HEIGHT within the bore where hammer slides. Fit needs to be perfect to not have issue here !!!
ALSO an SSG devise is a near MUST HAVE as well with a Balanced valve set up and light hammer.
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WATCH OUT for the triggers hold sear CLIMBING UP on the side of an MDS hammer. The sear that holds the hammer cocked has VERY LITTLE HEIGHT within the bore where hammer slides. Fit needs to be perfect to not have issue here !!!
ALSO an SSG devise is a near MUST HAVE as well with a Balanced valve set up and light hammer.
I'm just throwing everything back together- the only change will be the Cothran valve. I'll definitely keep an eye on that sear engagement issue- though, w/the steel hammer of the Flex, I don't think it should come up? Regardless, I'll keep an eye on it.
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Main tube (i.e. bottle block, bottle, tube, valve and hammer) is assembled. Cleaned up the inside of the breech a bit, and put some JB weld on that barrel collar thingy. The collar thingy had some gouges on it that I wanted to fill/smooth before I bed it to the breech. AGAIN, I'm not attaching it to the breech, I'm simply tightening up the gap. It's too loose for my liking. Hence bedding the collar to the breech. No pics. I'll post some when I do the collar thingy bedding job. I found some cold blue, so I'll finish cleaning up the screws and do a real good clean and then I'll throw on some cold blue. I don't want them rusting prematurely.
I'm thinking about making a new bolt knob. Not sure yet though. I'm going to make a new bolt knob for this Flex... Question for those of you who are FAR better makers- I have some all-thread I was thinking of using to make the main shaft of the new bolt handle... The knob I'm using is metric and it's of a larger diameter than the 1/4-28 of the original Flex bolt handle. I've got two questions that are kinda one big question:
1- Can I use all-thread to make a new bolt handle? Durability is the question.
2- Should/can I heat treat the all-thread so it's more durable. No, I'm not sure of what kind of steel it is. Maybe some kind of stainless?
TIA for any help w/the bolt handle question.
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NO all thread ....
Cut off a grade 8 bolt and have the threads JUST ENOUGH to go into the actual cock / loading bolt. What contacts and slides withing the receivers slot and locking notch needs to be smooth and solid w/o threads.
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NO all thread ....
Cut off a grade 8 bolt and have the threads JUST ENOUGH to go into the actual cock / loading bolt. What contacts and slides withing the receivers slot and locking notch needs to be smooth and solid w/o threads.
The all thread is metric and larger than the Flex's original bolt handle- so the plan was to chuck it in the lathe and reduce the O.D. The only other thing I could do is take some steel round stock and machine what I need and thread both ends. I was hoping the all thread would work... :( I'll post a picture of what I mean...
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(https://i.imgur.com/xO9rilZ.jpg)
Okay, there's a pic of the original Flex bolt handle and my current idea. The all thread is M8-1.25. Not sure if you can see, but it's definitely larger than the Flex's bolt shaft. I tried getting a O.D. in the valley between the threads, and I'm getting .273". The O.D. of the smooth section of the Flex bolt handle is .238". The idea is to machine the M8 all thread down to the same spec as the Flex bolt handle... There's enough material to do so, I was just wondering if the all thread would be good enough (i.e. durable) to be used- or could I heat treat or temper it to make it more durable... I could go the more tedious route and use steel rod, and machine it to the dimensions I need, and thread both ends to their respective requirements...
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If taking the threads OFF ... could work if the material ( Steel ) is hard enough to not bend ?
Being these rifles are a SEAT Forward and retract to fire type .... if seating slugs and other difficult to chamber projectiles that handle gets quite the work out !!! Yes I've bent lessor handle shafts doing just that.
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If taking the threads OFF ... could work if the material ( Steel ) is hard enough to not bend ?
Being these rifles are a SEAT Forward and retract to fire type .... if seating slugs and other difficult to chamber projectiles that handle gets quite the work out !!! Yes I've bent lessor handle shafts doing just that.
Okay cool... I'll give it a go then. If it doesn't work out, I'll get some known steel rod and do it the tedious way. That way I can look up/get better guidance on hardening and heat treating after machining it. Ease of cocking is the main reason I wanted to swap over to the Cothran valve, TBH. The potential power is nice too LOL. I'm going to leave this one a pellet shooter I think though. We'll see. I've got a .30 pellet mold from NOE just for this gun... So feeding shouldn't be too much of an issue.
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(https://i.imgur.com/PjPNg2e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MHoEHWW.jpg)
Here's some pics after I bedded and cleaned up the barrel collar thingy. You might be able to make out some of the gouges on the leading edge of the collar. I forgot that the collar doesn't seat all the way in the breech- so technically I didn't need to fill and smooth it. But it was bothering me, so I did it. It is indeed smooth to the touch! It doesn't LOOK like it is, but it is. We'll know tomorrow if I epoxied everything together! LOL Should be fine though. I slathered EVERYTHING in wax that I could think of (the stuff I don't want the JB Weld to stick to that is). I also filled the grub screw that secures the collar to the barrel with clay, that way no epoxy will get into the wrench pocket. Tomorrow, after I (HOPEFULLY) pop the barrel out and do some clean up, I can move on with assembly. Later today I'll finish cleaning up all the screws and such and get some cold blue on them. That way, hopefully I can get this back together and do a leak test. We're getting there!!
I know- from the pictures, even looking at it in my hands- the collar's fit looks tight. But I assure you, it had enough play in it that when the tensioning system is being tightened down, the barrel would twist. The twisting would then misalign the barrel port to the TP. There's an indentation in the barrel for the collar screw, and I didn't want to drill another. So I bedded the collar. I could wiggle/twist the barrel with my fingers... It's not supposed to do that. If I could make a new collar, I'd simply make a new one, and make it so that it seats the full length of the rear shroud mount. But that collar is a curvaceous little thing!! It would probably take me days to make one, not including bedding (if needed). Simply bedding the collar is MUCH easier for me.
Side ramble: If I had a way to easily measure those radii, I'd draw something in Sketchup or something and simply print one using my resin printer.
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I didn't glue the barrel into the receiver!!! HUZZAH!!! I still need to clean everything up and such, before I take some pics. I just wanted to post the good news! LOL
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The bedding job wasn't my best. Some sections of epoxy turned out to be a little thin. Overall the bedding is doing it's job though! The collar is TIGHT!! I'm happy.
Did have a slight snag- The little set screw for the barrel collar stripped out on me!! I was upset. But I carefully drilled it out and rethreaded it for 6-32. Everything is fine now.
These screws are proving to be a little more hard to clean than I originally thought. They're sitting in some Evaporust right now. I'll pull them and completely clean them before doing the bluing job.
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Just a tease. I'm currently doing a leak test, so the stock isn't fully tightened down. I just threw it on for this pic. If she holds air well, I'll air her up and see what's what!
Side question, mostly for Motorhead and/or Oldpro: Would you happen to remember what oring size is for the breech for .30 cal? The one that's in there now still seals, but I have to give a pretty good push to fully seat the bolt. There should be resistance of course, but I feel the current level is excessive...
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Pretty sure an SAE 010 I use a 70 duro poly, tho buna 70 is fine tho wears out quicker
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I can't believe I forgot to post the pic! ??? ::)
(https://i.imgur.com/f9avilF.jpg)
Thanks for the info Motorhead!!
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F'in A ... there ya go, high power nostalgia that may be relative old school but gets-it-done !!!
Nice rig !!!!!
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F'in A ... there ya go, high power nostalgia that may be relative old school but gets-it-done !!!
Nice rig !!!!!
Many thanks Motorhead!!
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She lost a few hundred psi over night :( I'll figure out where the leaks are coming from and get them sorted.
I'm still waiting on some tools to make the new bolt handle, and I'm also waiting on some o-rings for the breech. I'll post when I have more updates.
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Maybe I misread the air gauge? I thought I had lost 500 psi over night, when I first filled the gun. However, when I went to find the leaks today, she's still holding steady at 2500 psi fill... So I filled her back up to 3k (or close to it, I'm running low on air ::) ), and sprayed some windex all over the air block, gauges, burst disc/fill nipple and bottle... Nothing. Not even on the degasser screw. So I'll check again tomorrow to see if I just mis-read the gauge the first time around. *crosses fingers*
I had a thought this morning, and compared a .25 Mrod mag and the Flex's .30 mag. Externally they're the same shape. Of course, the difference is the thickness. CARM makes .30 conversion mags for Mrods. I've sent him a message via the Book of Faces, hopefully he says yes. Basically, I asked him if he could tweek his .30 conversion mag design. If he can, he can add the option to his store, specifically for the Flex (and WARP I would assume). He could probably also re-design the wheel for other calibers as well.
NOTE: CARM got back to me, he's able/willing to adjust his design. So I'm going to get my original mag to fit the way I want (snug, but not TIGHT), and send the measurements to CARM. I'm going to make a more in-depth comparison of the Mrod and Flex breech openings and mags to make sure all my bases are covered. I'll let y'all know what I come up with.
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Maybe I misread the air gauge? I thought I had lost 500 psi over night, when I first filled the gun. However, when I went to find the leaks today, she's still holding steady at 2500 psi fill... So I filled her back up to 3k (or close to it, I'm running low on air ::) ), and sprayed some windex all over the air block, gauges, burst disc/fill nipple and bottle... Nothing. Not even on the degasser screw. So I'll check again tomorrow to see if I just mis-read the gauge the first time around. *crosses fingers*
I had a thought this morning, and compared a .25 Mrod mag and the Flex's .30 mag. Externally they're the same shape. Of course, the difference is the thickness. CARM makes .30 conversion mags for Mrods. I've sent him a message via the Book of Faces, hopefully he says yes. Basically, I asked him if he could tweek his .30 conversion mag design. If he can, he can add the option to his store, specifically for the Flex (and WARP I would assume). He could probably also re-design the wheel for other calibers as well.
NOTE: CARM got back to me, he's able/willing to adjust his design. So I'm going to get my original mag to fit the way I want (snug, but not TIGHT), and send the measurements to CARM. I'm going to make a more in-depth comparison of the Mrod and Flex breech openings and mags to make sure all my bases are covered. I'll let y'all know what I come up with.
IF YOU do this ... Order a CARM ( WARP /FLEX ) .30 cal mag for me too !! Suggest making it size against the OEM barrel end shoulder specs and NOT M-rod. Width to fit OEM mag gap. IMO
** When I use a .25 or .22 barrels on these rifles, I'm using M-rod mags with a correct thickness backing spacer glued to the back area of slot to close the gap and it works fine !!
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IF YOU do this ... Order a CARM ( WARP /FLEX ) .30 cal mag for me too !! Suggest making it size against the OEM barrel end shoulder specs and NOT M-rod. Width to fit OEM mag gap. IMO
** When I use a .25 or .22 barrels on these rifles, I'm using M-rod mags with a correct thickness backing spacer glued to the back area of slot to close the gap and it works fine !!
I want these mags to fit nice and snug in the Flex, so all the major sizing (barrel, loading port, etc) will be based on the Flex. The only reason for comparing to the Mrod specs is because the base magazine from CARM is for an Mrod. I need to know where the differences lay, so I can note the changes accordingly. I also want to make sure these new mags will fit the same length projectiles that the original Flex mag can (if slightly longer, cool!!). CARM mags are of a different design compared to an Mrod mag (I feel the CARM is better), so I want to try to make sure I don't lose any positive attributes of the original Flex mag with this "conversion". Once the final design is good, I'll add a mag to my order for you Motorhead, no worries. I'm going to get at least two for myself.
Update on leaks: I somehow DID misread the gauge!! She's holding steady at 3k psi! I'll refill my Great White this week and get to tuning.
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A couple years back when I was working with Darko to finalize the .30 Mrod mag we started work on the .30 WAR mag. Darko made 1 .30 WAR magazine prototype..... It was just a smidge too thick/tight and required a slight bit of filing to fit. I gave him a bit of feedback for the next version but that occurred right as I was transitioning between platforms. I ultimately traded off my Flexes (and the prototype mag) for other guns, thus never pursued the mags any further.
Hopefully Darko can dig up the old file and print some off for you.
(https://i.imgur.com/Oc8MuwO.jpg)
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Excellent!! I'm hoping there isn't too much difference between the two- meaning his current .30 Mrod mag and the Flex. I'm going to verify some measurements on my end first. He didn't say anything about making a prototype mag for a Flex when I spoke with him, so we may be starting from scratch again. No worries. Overall, it shouldn't be a hard "conversion". This time though, I'll be sure to mention to him to save the file once everything is finalized so any remaining Flex owners can get their own.
Thank you for that input Mackeral5!
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Tom, looks beautiful! I hope you get the magazines from Darko…maybe ask for single shot loaders too?
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Tom, looks beautiful! I hope you get the magazines from Darko…maybe ask for single shot loaders too?
I was thinking about a single shot loader- but he doesn't even offer those in .25 let alone .30. If I get a wild hair, I'll see what's what.
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Tom, looks beautiful! I hope you get the magazines from Darko…maybe ask for single shot loaders too?
I was thinking about a single shot loader- but he doesn't even offer those in .25 let alone .30. If I get a wild hair, I'll see what's what.
I bet if you put out it out there that you would like someone to 3D print one for you..like Kbstingwing….he prints! He just printed magazines for his HW.
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Not too much of an update. She's still holding air just fine. I did a [bad] drawing of the Flex breech and sent it to CARM so he can make the necessary modifications to his Mrod .30 conversion mags.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hcq6CQt.jpg)
He's going to work on this tomorrow, so within the week, I'll have some mags on their way to me. Mackeral5, he did remember working on a mag for the Flex before, so he DOES have something to go off of. We'll see how good my measurements are ???
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010 o-rings aren't the size for the breech o-ring (to seal the probe). However, I DO have o-rings that'll work, right here in a kit ::) I KNEW I should have checked before ordering some LOL Oh well.
The bolt probe goes into battery with less effort, but it still seals. Excellent! I also got my tools I ordered for my lathe so I can proceed with the new bolt handle.
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I’m sure Darko’s mags will work perfectly! Getting closer!
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I’m sure Darko’s mags will work perfectly! Getting closer!
I'm going to cross my fingers!! I've already got a few people looking forward to these mags! LOL Darko said the picture was enough to go off of, so here's to hoping my measurements are good enough LOL
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No real updates. I won't be making a new bolt handle right now, not until I can get my set up more rigid, and get some better cutters. No biggie. The one I was able to make based on the factory bolt handle needs some tweeking anyway. I'll get to it eventually. I DID make a thread protector for the muzzle though, and I definitely need to get a knurling tool! The thread protector works, it's just real slick.
The CARM magazines are about done being printed, he's already added them to his website. Should be shipping out soon, but who knows when they'll get here w/all the hoopla going on. *crosses fingers* Here's to hoping they get here safe and sound.
I'll do a full report here and let him know of any changes, if any. So Motorhead- I won't be shipping your mag right away (once I get it), I want to make sure everything fits/works first. If any major work needs to be done, hopefully he'll send new mags. $86 for 3 mags (shipping incl) will get pricey otherwise...
I'll keep y'all posted!
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Mags came in today!! Overall, VERY nice! Shipping wasn't too shabby either! Call it a full 2 weeks or so for shipping. Mags WILL need some work, as they're a hair too thick between the back of the mag well and the barrel. No biggie. I'll carefully sand them down and fit them. Once that's done, I can do a function check. I'll work on them tomorrow. Once everything checks out and is good, I'll try to take better measurements and get in touch w/Darko and let him know of the changes.
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Okay- I couldn't wait. I did some work to the mag. DEFINITELY going to have to get Darko to modify the design. Really not by much. I LOVE the mag design! So much more simple than even a factory Crosman mag. Anyhoo, I had to VERY carefully sand down one side of the mag w/my disc sander, and fill in some voids. I'm currently waiting for the JB Weld to cure (what I used as filler), and I'm also going to have to get some extremely thin CA glue to glue the back plate in place. It's still secured w/the center screw and 2 pins. However, I want to add a drop of CA as extra insurance. Reading this post over again, it really sounds much worse than it is. The mag now fits PERFECTLY. Once I'm done working the mag over, and get my Great White pumped back up (yeah, still haven't done that ::) ), I'll do a function check of the mag. I tested the through hole w/a .30 bolt probe, and it's a "dang" near perfect fit!
I'm going to measure the new thickness, and compare it to the mags he sent. Whatever the difference is, I'm going to have Darko remove that much from the center section. That way, the back plate remains the same thickness. It's not critically thin now, but it's thin enough to make me worry about longevity.
Again- I'm not bashing Darko's work- this was a custom order mag. I fully expected something like this to happen. Once all the kinks are ironed out, we'll have a fantastic mag available to us for as long as Darko decides to be in business!!
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After ensuring a good snug fit, I compared the modified mag to the unmodified ones- about 1mm difference. Feed/function is really smooth!! I've already gotten in touch with Darko, and the modification to the design has been made. I've ordered 2 more mags to test fit again. We're almost there!!
One small update on the gun, I went ahead and ordered a Saber Tactical pic rail that mounts to the bottle. I like it! Though, I am keeping it close to the neck... basically a touch rearward of the middle of the bottle. It gives me the warm and fuzzies placing it closer to the neck, rather than out near the front of the bottle. I've also removed the pic rail on the handle. Looks cleaner this way too. I'll probably get some set screws to fill the holes.
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I'm gonna make a post on the main forum, but I got the revised CARM mags today- Holy schnikes!!! They fit like an absolute dream!! I've decided to get a new compressor, so once that's in, I'll get started on test/tune. We're getting there folks!!
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I didn't get a real string together. I was really just playing around w/my new tether reg and decided to sling some lead through the Flex... I'm really liking the numbers. I'm getting a little sticking w/the hammer, but I think it's because she's mad at me for letting her sit for so long! I'll definitely shoot her some more and cross my fingers that that's all she needs. Cocking effort is significantly easier w/the new spring. It's got the same dimensions and spring rate as a factory Mrod spring, but it's longer. I'm also not getting any blow-by at the probe seal or at the TP... There's a slow leak somewhere, but for the purposes of this gun, I can live with it... It takes days to leak down, so I'm not too concerned with it.
The magazines function absolutely flawlessly. So if you're in need of .30 Flex mags, they're for sale on CARM's website.
Not sure how many shots I ran through her today, my SWAG is about 40 shots? The shots varied between 890 fps and 915 fps on the extreme ends, but most of those shots hung around 895 fps and 905 fps. Consistent enough for me. That's 77 fpe and 81 fpe on the extreme ends, with most shots hovering between 78 fpe and 80 fpe. The Cobra reg looks like it's set between 2100 psi and 2200 psi. All shooting was done with 44 grain JSB pellets. I'm going to size these HP BBT I have down to .30 and see how those do over the chrony. I've also got a mold for the updated Sterne HP slugs, w/ a flat bottom (rather than the rebated boat tail), and I'll get around to casting some of those up too, to see what they're doing. I don't plan on messing with the reg setting.
I'll update when I take her out to sight her in, this is going to be at the most, a 100 yard gun. I think 78 fpe to 80 fpe is more than enough for this. Most shots will be inside 100 yards anyway. I've got high hopes for these HP BBT's and the updated Sterne HP slugs. Of course, I've also got the NOE .30 pellet mold as well, and Bullfrog said this gun shot those quite well, and as cast to boot!
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Without back reading ... This with the TJ & OEM 17" barrel ?
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Without back reading ... This with the TJ & OEM 17" barrel ?
Basically, yes. Barrel is 16.5"
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For what ever it worth ... power your seeing is "on the money". Inking more out of it will cost dearly in efficiency.
If down the road you want a LOT more power ... re-barrel for more length.
My personal WAR Flex went from @ 78 fpe with factory barrel to @ 100fpe with a 26" barrel swap and nothing more done.
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For what ever it worth ... power your seeing is "on the money". Inking more out of it will cost dearly in efficiency.
If down the road you want a LOT more power ... re-barrel for more length.
My personal WAR Flex went from @ 78 fpe with factory barrel to @ 100fpe with a 26" barrel swap and nothing more done.
Excellent to hear that! Yes, If I ever wanted more power, I'd swap out the bottle for a 500cc or a 580cc, and bump the barrel length up. But That would make the gun far too long, so I'll be sticking to it's current set up for the foreseeable future. It's getting around (or more?) the same velocity as it was w/the Cobra valve (as reported by Bullfrog), but with a much reduced cocking effort- which was the point of swapping to the Cothran valve. Overall, I'm happy!
I'm hoping the "dud shots" or "hammer stick" is due to the gun sitting... They happened randomly, and went on for either a single shot, or lasted nearly a full mag (7 or 8 shots)... i.e.
Full power (FP) shot
FP shot
*DUD* (slightly over 600 fps or less)
FP shot
FP shot
*DUD*
FP shot
FP shot
It would go on like that randomly. Even though it was tethered, I did wait a few seconds between shots. I fiddled with the hammer tension, and on the last 10-15 shots (basically 2 full mags), I didn't get any dud shots, and decided to end the session on a good note. Again, I'm hoping it's nothing too bad, and that it's simply an indicator of needing to shoot the gun more.
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Not knowing the COTHRAN ??? tho from what read it sounds as if the hammer strike energy is threshold "TOO LIGHT" causing valve not to fully open giving those DUD shots noted.
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So weird question-
I'll probably pull it back apart to take a look, but I'm not seeing any venting through the hammer spring adjuster, like with the Mrod. Also, since it's been a while, things might have gone gummy (not sure why, I used moly)- but (don't be too hard on me!) I cock the rifle, and with the bolt to the rear, I pull the trigger- it does NOT snap forward with authority. I have upped the spring tension (I haven't dialed her in yet), and it's still going forward like an soft-shut cabinet door. That's not normal.
So the question is- Is "backpressure" (not sure what else to call it) the issue I'm seeing? What should I do to remedy this? I was thinking of center drilling the spring guide, as it's just delrin... Small hole though- I don't want to weaken the spring guide. Thoughts?
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Not knowing the COTHRAN ??? tho from what read it sounds as if the hammer strike energy is threshold "TOO LIGHT" causing valve not to fully open giving those DUD shots noted.
Dead on!!! Its a switch thats either on or off, you have to tune it to your velocity with pressure then slowly start backing the spring tension off till it slows then at that point your on the threshold 0f it opening or not so you go 1/2 turn in and if its to fast back the pressure off. its a bit of a weird way to tune but the valve really is on or off very little window to tune with on the spring , much more tunable with pressure.
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Not knowing the COTHRAN ??? tho from what read it sounds as if the hammer strike energy is threshold "TOO LIGHT" causing valve not to fully open giving those DUD shots noted.
Dead on!!! Its a switch thats either on or off, you have to tune it to your velocity with pressure then slowly start backing the spring tension off till it slows then at that point your on the threshold 0f it opening or not so you go 1/2 turn in and if its to fast back the pressure off. its a bit of a weird way to tune but the valve really is on or off very little window to tune with on the spring , much more tunable with pressure.
I know that, and I'm not at that point yet. I was wondering about the possible backpressure or venting issue I might have?
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I'm gonna center-drill the spring guide if cleaning up the hammer/section of tube the hammer rides in doesn't work out. Maybe just do both. All my other Mrod-type guns are vented...
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Don't think its a vent issue. You can see the hammer from the slot the cocking pin guides in when the breech is removed.
I use a anti-seize type lube very sparingly and it works well on the 4 War airguns that I worked on.
(Well 3 Flex and one Warp.) I tried a moly lube and that didn't work well.
Lube the cocking pin slot too.
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Not knowing the COTHRAN ??? tho from what read it sounds as if the hammer strike energy is threshold "TOO LIGHT" causing valve not to fully open giving those DUD shots noted.
Dead on!!! Its a switch thats either on or off, you have to tune it to your velocity with pressure then slowly start backing the spring tension off till it slows then at that point your on the threshold 0f it opening or not so you go 1/2 turn in and if its to fast back the pressure off. its a bit of a weird way to tune but the valve really is on or off very little window to tune with on the spring , much more tunable with pressure.
I know that, and I'm not at that point yet. I was wondering about the possible backpressure or venting issue I might have?
Thats not it your just riding to close to the edge of the on or off. Turn hammer spring in 1/2 to 1 turn then adjust pressure
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Don't think its a vent issue. You can see the hammer from the slot the cocking pin guides in when the breech is removed.
I use a anti-seize type lube very sparingly and it works well on the 4 War airguns that I worked on.
(Well 3 Flex and one Warp.) I tried a moly lube and that didn't work well.
Lube the cocking pin slot too.
Good idea! I was thinking it's either a "backpressure", or it's a lube issue. I'll crack her open and see. Interesting that moly didn't work well... Are you using an automotive type anti-seize? Anything to look out for? There's so many- aluminum, copper, nickel... Thoughts?
Thats not it your just riding to close to the edge of the on or off. Turn hammer spring in 1/2 to 1 turn then adjust pressure
Okie dokie! I'll clean out the back part of the tube and hammer, and see what's what! Thanks y'all!
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I used a paint on graphite spray on my flex hammer.
I haven’t pulled it apart since I did that. But it seems to works.
U paint on a thin coat, let it cure.
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Not knowing the COTHRAN ??? tho from what read it sounds as if the hammer strike energy is threshold "TOO LIGHT" causing valve not to fully open giving those DUD shots noted.
Dead on!!! Its a switch thats either on or off, you have to tune it to your velocity with pressure then slowly start backing the spring tension off till it slows then at that point your on the threshold 0f it opening or not so you go 1/2 turn in and if its to fast back the pressure off. its a bit of a weird way to tune but the valve really is on or off very little window to tune with on the spring , much more tunable with pressure.
I know that, and I'm not at that point yet. I was wondering about the possible backpressure or venting issue I might have?
Thats not it your just riding to close to the edge of the on or off. Turn hammer spring in 1/2 to 1 turn then adjust pressure
So help me understand somthing about tuning the cothran valve.
I tuned my flex .22 like I conventionally tune guns. Roughly 5-7% below the max for said plenum pressure.
So right now, I could get a max of 920fps at 1000psi.
And I was able to back of the HS to 895fps.
But it was rather hard to fine tune it. And around 875 the valve basicly shut off..gun turned into a spitball gun. :)
So your telling me I need to farther reduce my reg? Instead of tuning to the knee.
I did notice it was very hard to get it below 910-913 at this pressure.
So mayb that’s the sweet spot
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So help me understand somthing about tuning the cothran valve.
EXTREMELY basic Cothran valve tune guide: Cothran valve is "tunable" via input pressure. More pressure, more air, more power. The HS tension only needs to be adjusted such that the valve opens, and no more. More HS tension simply makes the gun harder to cock. This procedure works VERY well with a SSG. I personally don't have an SSG on this build, but am kicking around building another .30 and would use one on that build.
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So help me understand somthing about tuning the cothran valve.
EXTREMELY basic Cothran valve tune guide: Cothran valve is "tunable" via input pressure. More pressure, more air, more power. The HS tension only needs to be adjusted such that the valve opens, and no more. More HS tension simply makes the gun harder to cock. This procedure works VERY well with a SSG. I personally don't have an SSG on this build, but am kicking around building another .30 and would use one on that build.
So, tuned to the knee. Means, it’s most likely not opening completely
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I used a paint on graphite spray on my flex hammer.
I haven’t pulled it apart since I did that. But it seems to works.
U paint on a thin coat, let it cure.
In here lurking and learning, I’m at this point right now. I wonder what lube Travis and Jim used on hammer and pellet probe mechanism when they made the guns?
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On the bolt/probe I used a light coat of antiseize grease, works great
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On the bolt/probe I used a light coat of antiseize grease, works great
What kind?
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On the bolt/probe I used a light coat of antiseize grease, works great
What kind?
Copper based.
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I retuned the flex with cothran valve yesterday.
It iperformed exactly as described above.
Set my reg to the fps I was looking for, and started backing of the HS, FPS stayed inside of a 5 fps spread all the time.
After about 3-4 full turns, the fps took a 20 point dump with a 1/2 turn of the HS. Turned it back in and done!
Very unconventional for a valve. I’m used to looking for the bell curve….Kinda like it.
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Sorry for hijacking the thread Tom…
I’m just having tough time finding good information on this gun.
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Sorry for hijacking the thread Tom…
I’m just having tough time finding good information on this gun.
No worries!! You didn't hijack at all- we're all here to learn! As long as the posts remain relevant to the subject at hand (i.e. the Flex), post about anything and everything! Everyone learns differently, and every little bit of info helps! I too am having a hard time finding dedicated info about the Flex. So this thread is as much for everyone else as it is for me. Hopefully someone can get the help they need in the future.
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On the bolt/probe I used a light coat of antiseize grease, works great
That anti seize did the trick. Thanks
ES is now 5fps if that.
Spent a little time tuning ninja flex reg, cothran valve and hammer spring pressure today.
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My gun is .22
So far I’ve only tried to shoot pellets with it.
I have to apply a fair bit of force to fully seat that 18g pellet into the barrel.
And even thought the gun has the power to push the 25g 22 redesigns. I feel like I’m breaking the gun when I try to seat those.
So I’m wondering, to ppl recut the loading port of these gun? Or shouldn't I mess with a good thing,
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My gun is .22
So far I’ve only tried to shoot pellets with it.
I have to apply a fair bit of force to fully seat that 18g pellet into the barrel.
And even thought the gun has the power to push the 25g 22 redesigns. I feel like I’m breaking the gun when I try to seat those.
So I’m wondering, to ppl recut the loading port of these gun? Or shouldn't I mess with a good thing,
Is the barrel a factory Flex .22 barrel? If so, then it's more than likely Jim's HF TJ barrel, which is pretty tight. JSB makes different size heads- see if you can figure out what size head you have, and find a smaller one... Side question- how does it feel when you close the bolt on an empty chamber?
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My gun is .22
So far I’ve only tried to shoot pellets with it.
I have to apply a fair bit of force to fully seat that 18g pellet into the barrel.
And even thought the gun has the power to push the 25g 22 redesigns. I feel like I’m breaking the gun when I try to seat those.
So I’m wondering, to ppl recut the loading port of these gun? Or shouldn't I mess with a good thing,
Is the barrel a factory Flex .22 barrel? If so, then it's more than likely Jim's HF TJ barrel, which is pretty tight. JSB makes different size heads- see if you can figure out what size head you have, and find a smaller one... Side question- how does it feel when you close the bolt on an empty chamber?
Yes TJ barrel.
Bolt closes free and easy without a pellet.
But with an 18g pellet the .02-.03” kinda “click” home. It’s very do-able once your used to it, It’s very easy to miss also…..resulting in a poi shift.
With the 25gr it’s like .05” that has to be rammed home. Yes very tight. I gave up on that pretty quickly.
But still has the energy to push them at 980 on a 2000psi reg.
The run really likes the 18’s that’s why I hesitate to mess with the loading port.
If the whole Barrel is that tight…does it even makes sense to try opening the breech?
I’m guessing this is a choked barrel?
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Mine is a 25 cal and seems to like most all pellets but I have lots of jsb 25gr so I shoot them a lot.
When I got the gun it was tuned at 910-915fps with 25gr jsb and was a laser so I left it alone for years.
Right now with new regulator n valve I have it shooting them at 880fps and about to head out do some shooting and see how she does.
My gun is number 44 so I guess it’s whatever they used for a barrel back then and all pellets I tried load easy.
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I have 2 barrels made by Jim. One in 22 and one in 25. They both had very tight bores. I polished them both up a couple years ago and that seemed to help a lot. I changed the 22 to the hades pellets and with the smaller head diameter and having polished the barrel very thoroughly it is shooting those and I also stopped lubing and frequent cleanings. Still testing though.
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I’m guessing this is a choked barrel?
Nah- Jim just made his .22 bore tighter. I wouldn't mess with the chambering. I'd just try other projectiles and find out their size is all. If you were to experiment with slugs, you can get those in different sizes as well, or maybe size them. NOE sizers are popular.
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Well, got her partially broken down... OOF!! Y'all were 100% correct, the moly is the culprit. It's not slick AT ALL. I've got it all cleaned out, and I'll reassemble w/a different lube.
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I'm gonna give Krytox a try, to lube the hammer and bolt. I should (crossing fingers) be getting my Krytox today (ordered from Amazon, 1-day shipping). If so, I'll get the gun back together and maybe this week I can get some numbers.
I replaced the 420cc bottle w/another 500cc bottle I have. The original 500cc bottle is on my .172 build. I don't feel like disassembling that AF valve again. The length difference between the 420cc and 500cc bottle isn't worth the 80cc's less volume. Also, I tested my Falx LDC, and it fits w/the longer tank! Stoked.
I've also decided to install a Hera Arms folding adapter on the Flex. It's an extra one from another project. A shorter package while transporting is always welcome. Still keeping the MDT stock though- I want the adjustable cheek piece feature for sure. I'll post pics when she's all done.
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I’m guessing this is a choked barrel?
Nah- Jim just made his .22 bore tighter. I wouldn't mess with the chambering. I'd just try other projectiles and find out their size is all. If you were to experiment with slugs, you can get those in different sizes as well, or maybe size them. NOE sizers are popular.
Obviously I could check this….but I’ve never had the barrel out.
So your telling me there is no choke?
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So your telling me there is no choke?
I don't believe so, no. Jim just had the entire bore made tighter. I could be wrong though.
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tight bore and tight choke that's why they need cleaned often and why they shoot so well also.
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tight bore and tight choke that's why they need cleaned often and why they shoot so well also.
There we are
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The Krytox did come in today- she's back together... That did it! No longer feels gummy at all! Just real slick and smooth, like it should!
I found a leak though- the fill nipple. When she degasses herself, I'll take the nipple off and see if I can lube the o-ring or some such. I've got different fill nipples if needed.
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Which kryptox grease did you get? They make 100’s of different kinds.
Well, my gun was an absolute shooter since I got it. But with all the talk of cleaning, I figured I’ll give it a go. Can’t hurt. Boy was I wrong.
Pulled three patched through the barrel with ballistol….now I got a absolute scattergun .
Started out at 6” at 30y, it did come down to 1.5”
Probably have 50 shots down the barrel since cleaning. Is this normal?
I did lube the hammer at the same time, just a little coprkote anti seize. Had to increase the HS..seems the anti seize slowed down flight.
No matter, fps came back up, and was within 5fps
So I don’t think that my accuracy issue
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Which krytox grease did you get? They make 100’s of different kinds.
GPL 205
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After cleaning the barrel, should be lubing my ammo?
I’ve never really had to….but mayb the barrel now needs a little lube….and that why accuracy isn’t tight anymore
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After cleaning the barrel, should be lubing my ammo?
I’ve never really had to….but mayb the barrel now needs a little lube….and that why accuracy isn’t tight anymore
It couldn't hurt. A few people have reported improved accuracy with lube... Of course, there's also weighing and sorting pellets as well...
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I think I got it, don’t think I cleaned it enough…seems back to normal now
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I think I got it, don’t think I cleaned it enough…seems back to normal now
Always a good thing when the problem turns out to be something simple and easily rectified!!
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I’m really clueless here…
But where would u guys put the value of a war flex?
In great functional condition.
I know there’s probably a smaller market for it….but still what would real world value be?
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I’m really clueless here…
But where would u guys put the value of a war flex?
In great functional condition.
I know there’s probably a smaller market for it….but still what would real world value be?
$700-900
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After cleaning the barrel, should be lubing my ammo?
I’ve never really had to….but mayb the barrel now needs a little lube….and that why accuracy isn’t tight anymore
Jim recommend lubing with FP 10. It only takes a few drops per tin of pellets.
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Jim recommend lubing with FP 10. It only takes a few drops per tin of pellets.
Really? That's a petroleum distillate- aren't those harmful to our seals?
Would Ballistol be a better pellet lube? Just a thought- I've never lubricated my pellets or slugs.
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I haven't really noticed anything messing with the orings on the two guns I have Jim's barrels on. And I use FP-10. Thought about going to the furniture polish but ...
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Just want to share this grease…it’s seems to work well on hammer and bolt.
Credits go to www.veradiumair.com (http://www.veradiumair.com)
He told he uses this stuff when he works on the guns.
Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip Grease - 2.0 OZ Jar, Grey (91051) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UVISZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BCV5J2T1XSWG34GHZXK6 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UVISZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BCV5J2T1XSWG34GHZXK6)
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The FP10 works with the Flex. I don't think its flammable. Amazon mailed them to me in Honolulu
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Whew! It's been a while, but I've finally plunkered down and shot a few VELOCITY strings for this Flex. I can fill and shoot 1 mag- which is 7 shots, per fill. I could get a few more shots before dropping off reg (which again, looks to be around 2100 psi-2200 psi)... However, 1 mag of full power shots and then fill was the original goal for this gun. I don't really care about high efficiency on a hunting only rig.
I put 4 total mags through. 2 of pellets (44.75 gr) and 2 of these hand cast NOE slugs. I sized the slugs of the first mag to .299, but they were a touch hard to load. I could have gone a little deeper on the chambering, I suppose- but I didn't want to push my luck. I sized to .298 for the 2nd mag, and they fed MUCH better!! Just the slightest bit of resistance that last little bit when fully seating the slug. I think, based on the .298 sized slugs, I got the chamber right. Or at least close enough to right. LOL For these shot strings, I'm just going to post the most basic info. Not the most accurate, I know. But again- this is a hunting rig, for shots 100 yds and closer. I'll post some target shots when I'm able to shoot this beast.
Pellets: 44.75 gr. JSB, About 75 fpe
Mag 1: Avg Vel: 875 fps, STD Dev: 6.8 fps
Mag 2: Avg Vel: 873 fps, STD Dev: 4.6 fps (I think I took a little longer between shots here)
Slugs: 60 gr. cast NOE BBT HP, About 81 fpe
Mag 1: Avg: 782 fps, STD Dev: 3.9 fps (This was a short string, FX Chrony only captured 4 shots >:( )
Mag 2: Avg: 780 fps, STD Dev: 4.4 fps
These CARM mags I helped develop specifically for the Flex are the bee's KNEES!! CARM did an amazing job on these mags!! Pellets are a TOUCH tight and need to be seated (just slightly- I'm sure it'll get better over time), but these sized slugs fit beautifully! I mean, just perfect! No issues feeding at all!
Overall, I'm extremely happy with how this Flex ended up. Now to put a scope on it and cross my fingers. I'm really hoping these redesigned BBT HP slugs do well in the accuracy dept!! I'll test pellets and other slugs eventually (like the FX Hybrids), but for now I'm strictly interested in these NOE BBT HP slugs.
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Tiny update. I've made the last modification to this Flex. I can finally say I'm done. I've added an arca swiss rail to the bottom of the chassis. Now I can put it on my tripod if/when needed. I need to get out and put some lead down range! Hopefully I'll be able to do that really soon!
OAL folded: 26.5"
OAL extended: 37" to the tip of the tank.
(https://i.imgur.com/ClZMgrw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dPFFrow.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fKzchwP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gqbXlnA.jpg)
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That gun was ahead of its time they are just recently employing the things together this gun had almost 10 years ago. By the way I love the flat green look.
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You would be shocked on what more barrel length does !!
My Flex went from @ 75 fpe with a 17" oem TJ's to a tad over 100 fpe with a 27" barrel fitted.
Nice carbine as it's set up .. VERY nice.