GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: Vee3 on January 02, 2019, 11:28:27 PM
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But that's okay. ;)
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Victor
Neet mini mill, looks sharp, What brand?
Tia,
Don
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https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/ (https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/)
I'll also be getting their smallest lathe when they're back in stock...
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/ (https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/)
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Wow! That is really nice! I can think of years of projects to do with that.
I had in mind a cross axis table for my Rigid drill press, but of course, after I received my Amazon Christmas gift certificates, the table I had on my Amazon list is no longer available, so I'm looking for a decent replacement.
Anyway, your machine there is far beyond what I would have ended up with.
Keep us tuned in to the projects you do with it. :D
D.
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certainly drooling over here!! One day, one day
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VERY NICE! Also very impressed by the anvil in the background
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I really enjoyed my PM-25MV. PM has great customer support as well.
That looks like a pretty hefty vise for it. Looks like a 6 inch, or maybe it's just the perspective? I'd guess it's going to eat up a good chunk of your tables weight capacity if it is a 6". Shouldn't be an issue if you're not planning on mounting anything else on the table at the same time, but if you do, you will get some binding when traversing the X axis while working near the edges of the mills envelope. Also, if you don't have a DRO, you might find it hard to read the Y axis dials with a larger vise.
Everyone I've talked to has really liked their PM-25MVs, including myself.
It's a great mill for making custom airgun parts. I'm sure there are more people on the GTA looking at purchasing a mill. Be sure to keep us updated on your experience with yours.
.
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This is what I had for ~20 years. The little one will take a bit of getting used to.
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That looks like a pretty hefty vise for it. Looks like a 6 inch, or maybe it's just the perspective? I'd guess it's going to eat up a good chunk of your tables weight capacity if it is a 6". Shouldn't be an issue if you're not planning on mounting anything else on the table at the same time, but if you do, you will get some binding when traversing the X axis while working near the edges of the mills envelope. Also, if you don't have a DRO, you might find it hard to read the Y axis dials with a larger vise.
It's a 5". I bought it for a specific job. It will be mounted with the jaws parallel to the Y axis, with the swivel base removed. I have a 4" vise that will be used after I'm done with the 5". The 5" will most likely be turned into a precision swivel bench vise. Was only $140 and shipped at no extra cost with the machine. Not bad, considering a 6" Kurt with swivel base is ~$900.
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That looks like a pretty hefty vise for it. Looks like a 6 inch, or maybe it's just the perspective? I'd guess it's going to eat up a good chunk of your tables weight capacity if it is a 6". Shouldn't be an issue if you're not planning on mounting anything else on the table at the same time, but if you do, you will get some binding when traversing the X axis while working near the edges of the mills envelope. Also, if you don't have a DRO, you might find it hard to read the Y axis dials with a larger vise.
It's a 5". I bought it for a specific job. It will be mounted with the jaws parallel to the Y axis, with the swivel base removed. I have a 4" vise that will be used after I'm done with the 5". The 5" will most likely be turned into a precision swivel bench vise. Was only $140 and shipped at no extra cost with the machine. Not bad, considering a 6" Kurt with swivel base is ~$900.
I looked at buying a Kurt when I ordered my PM-25MVs replacement, but I couldn't see shelling out near that much for one. I also almost ordered the 6" vise on sale for $99 from them, but I decided to go with a smaller one. I ended up going with the Homge 5" that shipped with the new mill. The free shipping with the machine is really nice.
I ran a 4" PM vise on my PM-25MV. It was more than accurate enough for what I did. I would assume you'll be satisfied with the 5" as well.
My only complaint with the few times I've dealt with PM is that I've had issues tracking anything through Saia. Not really their fault, but still an annoyance with the process. My new mill shipped on the 27th, but I still can't track it and have no idea what time frame to expect it. I know Saia calls to set a delivery date, but it would be nice to know when I need to have the forklift at my house.
Enough of my complaining though. I hope I didn't come off as detracting from anything. I am most definitely an amatuer metal worker.
I believe you'll be very happy with your PM-25MV. I definitely like your plan for using the 5" vise as a precision bench vise. I wish I would have thought of something like that.
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Those are fantastic machines you guys have there, but for this lesser mortal I'm going to try this which will be back in stock on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ3RHPS/?coliid=I2DJGLMHME7BMA&colid=1CJDURF60WZIT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ3RHPS/?coliid=I2DJGLMHME7BMA&colid=1CJDURF60WZIT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/718Dcca29vL._SX679_.jpg)
And this to go along with it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROTARY-TABLE-HORIZONTAL-VERTICAL-NEW-BEST-BUY-IN-TOWN-PIC-5794/262357804530?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROTARY-TABLE-HORIZONTAL-VERTICAL-NEW-BEST-BUY-IN-TOWN-PIC-5794/262357804530?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~icAAOSw9N1VwhZK/s-l500.jpg)
I'm planning on using it on my large floor stand Rigid drill press. Any thoughts from you Pro's on the feasablilty of this dinky set up would be appreciated.
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Not a Pro but I'll chime in.
I you are thinking of using that for milling, I tried that. I used a cross vise on my floor 17" drill press. The trickiest part was how to get precise control of the vertical motion. For aluminum I had to take very light cuts which meant the Z control was critical. I did a DIY mod to try to achieve that but was never happy with it. It probably works better with plastic where you can take deeper cuts, but I gave up and bought a mini mill. You could go another step up in rigidity with something like this https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1765&category=-269978449 (https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1765&category=-269978449) or http://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-18-1-2-Compound-Slide-Table/G8750 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-18-1-2-Compound-Slide-Table/G8750) but it doesn't solve the issues on the drill press side and you are spending money that could go towards a mini mill.
If you are planning to use it for precision positioning during drilling, that's a different story. I have my cross vise permanently on the drill press and use it all the time for hole placement. Don't know how my cross vise set-up compares in utility with the XY table you are looking at.
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I have never tried using a X/Y table in a drill press as a mill but two of my friends have with no luck. One of them used a 1930's industrial press, which had new spindle bearings, and had so much chatter the chuck would fly out on small cuts. As stated by Stan above it works great for wood or plastic. He ended up finding a good use mill for $400.00 and gave me the X/Y table which now has 4 years of dust on it. It's doable but you must take very small Cuts. My first mill was one step above a drill press which I sold 5 years ago and purchased a Grizzly GO619 which is a light duty mill but precision and meets my needs. It has now been converted to CNC.
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Thanks guys.
Stan - exact center drilling is exactly what I want to do with it. Of late I'm making my own clear and tinted front globe sight inserts. and because I have different diameter globes (and friends who do also) I need to find center each time I drill a set. Here's a pic of one that I did for my MP532. The bevel looks off center but it isn't. It's just the way I had to take the pic at an angle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVTWBDgH/20180830-172643-resized.jpg)
I know I can buy these outright, but I enjoy making things on my own and experimenting with things that you can't buy like this insert with a center dot.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZVNVLYb/20180831-164144-resized.jpg)
My drill press has zero chatter as it's the best one that Rigid makes for small shop and home use. I'm waffling on the rotating table, but it's the only way I can think of to get a stepped edge for inserts like these.
(https://www.intershoot.co.uk/acatalog/gehmann546element.jpg)
Those are just my starter projects and what got me thinking about an axis table. I have $150 in Amazon gift dollars I need to spend anyway.
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Precise features on small round things....Looks like you are at the entrance of the mini lathe rabbit hole.
For precision drilling, you may want to look at an optical center punch http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=42311 (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=42311) or https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5781-Optica-Length-Punch/dp/B00012YFIA (https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5781-Optica-Length-Punch/dp/B00012YFIA)
I don't have one but it is on my not so short list of DIY projects.
The chatter on the drill does not show up until you start side loading it with an end mill.
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I haven't had any problems with center point skating. I have a small pointed bit (or awl) that can press into the plastic, and then put in the proper size bit to complete the hole.
Looks like you are at the entrance of the mini lathe rabbit hole.
That's what I'm a bit worried about.
The chatter on the drill does not show up until you start side loading it with an end mill.
I realize that as well. I'll have to go real slow with small bites I think.
The trickiest part was how to get precise control of the vertical motion.
And that is probably the thing I'm worried about most. There is a gauge on the vertical spindle handle (like you'd have on a scope sidewheel) that shows increments of 1/32 or less, but there is also a certain amount of play in that direction in the rack/pinion. Something I'll have to address as that affects the depth of the bevels on my sight inserts, which in turn affects the apparent thickness of the ring.
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For controlling the vertical, I tightened the nut on the left side to get enough friction on the down feed. I also clamped a ring onto the quill that had a tab that I could touch with a dial indicator.
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I also clamped a ring onto the quill that had a tab that I could touch with a dial indicator.
Great idea!!
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I wonder if you could cut the ledge on your disks with a boring head and a cutter bit that you grind to shape as needed, or even an adjustable hole cutter with a custom ground bit.
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I wonder if you could cut the ledge on your disks with a boring head and a cutter bit that you grind to shape as needed, or even an adjustable hole cutter with a custom ground bit.
Each disc has it's own particular OD to fit inside the globe, and the step has it's own OD to fit inside the rear housing. Some inserts don't require the step as they replace metal ones. Those that do need the step fit into the rear threaded housing of a globe sight and are then threaded into the globe as a unit. The step isn't absolutely necessary, but with a proper fit it helps keep the insert perfectly centered inside the globe housing.
Kinda hard to explain without pics (that I cannot find right now).
To make the step I'm thinking I will have to come in from the edge at half depth, turn the turntable and keep checking the steps' OD until I get there. I can't have one proprietary hole saw or anything because of the diff sizes of inserts that I want to make.
It will be a tedious process for sure, but if I do a run of dozens of each size it should work out.
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The boring head has a precisely adjustable cutting diameter. How do you hold the disks? Are they flat?
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Firstly, I have the discs laser cut to the diameter I need. The accuracy is +/- .5mm. Plastics supplier I use has a $35 shop minimum for odd jobs. I can get about 200 discs for that price.
I hold them flat in (right now) a 3/4" thick block of wood. I take a flat paddle boring bit of a diameter that is really close to what I need and bore down just the thickness of the disc, maybe a bit more, which is 1/8th thick. Then bore a smaller diameter hole all the way through, This creates a surrounding ledge for the disc to rest down on. I then make a cut from the end of the board into the hole that will allow it to flex larger or smaller as need be. Run a screw through the cut to pinch it closed around the now inserted disc. Then I have to find center and clamp it down. That step is where I need the cross-axis table. Everything is very rudimentary right now, but as you can see in the pics above (previous post), the results were not very bad at all. I measured the finished disc from the inside of the center hole to the edges at several points and it is within .01mm!! (That's not a typo).
The only reason I put everything on hold is due to my current method of finding and holding center. Right now I have to use paper shims and such against a fence on the table, then clamp, check again, loosen clamp a bit, tap it sideways, check, tap it back the other way, check, shim, clamp, rinse, repeat.... you get the point. I asked people on Amazon (supposedly users) if the tables will lock and apparently they do. I dunno, it may be a $100 piece of junk, but I may also get it to work (I'm pretty handy if I do say so myself ;)).
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I understand what you are doing. Having XY adjustability will help a lot. I'm surprised that the laser cut is so inaccurate. My thinking was that the boring head or hole cutter, with custom cutter would let you work at the sheet level and cut the OD, ledge, and potentially the centerhole in one setup.
Looks like fun project.
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Note, if you are waiting on Amazon, I saw that Banggood has a few of them in their US warehouse for $79.99 https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-BG6350-Multifunction-Drill-Vise-Fixture-Working-Table-Mini-Precision-Milling-Machine-Worktable-wp-Usa-1206954.html (https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-BG6350-Multifunction-Drill-Vise-Fixture-Working-Table-Mini-Precision-Milling-Machine-Worktable-wp-Usa-1206954.html)
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Note, if you are waiting on Amazon, I saw that Banggood has a few of them in their US warehouse for $79.99 https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-BG6350-Multifunction-Drill-Vise-Fixture-Working-Table-Mini-Precision-Milling-Machine-Worktable-wp-Usa-1206954.html (https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-BG6350-Multifunction-Drill-Vise-Fixture-Working-Table-Mini-Precision-Milling-Machine-Worktable-wp-Usa-1206954.html)
Wow. Thanks for that. That's $30 cheaper than Amazon. Was gonna use my Amazon Christmas gift cards to buy it and save my cash for an upcoming
"gotta have it" eBay item. Think I'll wait to see if I get the eBay thing, If not, buy the BangGood.
Thanks Mate!!
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I realize we are getting off the OP's topic, but here's a quick look at the crude jig I used to make the above mentioned inserts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHyS6H60/Insert-jig.jpg)
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I noticed that table has less than 2" of Y travel. Probably OK for your specific project but maybe limiting for general use. A cross vise may be more general purpose.
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I noticed that table has less than 2" of Y travel. Probably OK for your specific project but maybe limiting for general use. A cross vise may be more general purpose.
Yeah, I noticed that as well. 2" x 7", but I figured that anything I am likely to machine for a gun would fall within those limits.
I started out looking for "cross vise" and then saw these tables. When one thinks about it though, what good is a 4" x 13.77" table when you can only utilize half of it?
What would you suggest in an affordable cross vise?
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If there is a Harbor Freight near you, take a look at the 6". https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html) with the usual 20% off coupon, it comes in at $60 and is a beast. I have the 5" version but they changed the design and the new 5" does not look as good, I would go with the 6". Here is a picture of it on my 17" drill press. Don't mind the handles on it I had to replace those, I got the floor model dirt cheap :D
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That might work. What is the working range of travel on the 6"?
There are two HF's near me. I'll have a look.
Thanks again!!
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Their spec says a little over 7" in each direction
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I looked at buying a Kurt when I ordered my PM-25MVs replacement, but I couldn't see shelling out near that much for one. I also almost ordered the 6" vise on sale for $99 from them, but I decided to go with a smaller one. I ended up going with the Homge 5" that shipped with the new mill. The free shipping with the machine is really nice.
Which one did you buy? I was recently at another GTA member's house and ran his PM-727M briefly. He also has one of their mid-sized lathes.
My only complaint with the few times I've dealt with PM is that I've had issues tracking anything through Saia. Not really their fault, but still an annoyance with the process. My new mill shipped on the 27th, but I still can't track it and have no idea what time frame to expect it. I know Saia calls to set a delivery date, but it would be nice to know when I need to have the forklift at my house.
Guess I got lucky; Saia was very helpful to me with scheduling and tracking. I added the liftgate delivery option and the guy brought it off the truck right into my garage with a pallet jack (I gave him a $20 tip). I assumed I was going to have to wrestle it up the driveway on moving dollys. :o
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I ordered a PM-835S with the DRO and all three power feeds. I'm lazy and wanted to be back up and running as quickly as possible. With my lathe and all the airgun support equipment, I dont believe I could fit anything larger in my little shop.
When Saia delivered my PM-25MV they brought it on a truck without a lift gate twice. I had to double check, but I definitely paid for lift gate service. PM was great about getting me that fee back, but there was nothing worse than knowing I had a new toy right there, and not being able to unload it. Fortunately, I've since made friends with the guys at the feedlot down the street and have been given their blessing to use their all terrain forklift if needed.
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Those are fantastic machines you guys have there, but for this lesser mortal I'm going to try this which will be back in stock on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ3RHPS/?coliid=I2DJGLMHME7BMA&colid=1CJDURF60WZIT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ3RHPS/?coliid=I2DJGLMHME7BMA&colid=1CJDURF60WZIT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/718Dcca29vL._SX679_.jpg)
And this to go along with it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROTARY-TABLE-HORIZONTAL-VERTICAL-NEW-BEST-BUY-IN-TOWN-PIC-5794/262357804530?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROTARY-TABLE-HORIZONTAL-VERTICAL-NEW-BEST-BUY-IN-TOWN-PIC-5794/262357804530?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~icAAOSw9N1VwhZK/s-l500.jpg)
I'm planning on using it on my large floor stand Rigid drill press. Any thoughts from you Pro's on the feasablilty of this dinky set up would be appreciated.
We've all gotta work with what we can afford to buy and have space for. At ~8 years old I started learning on my Dad's 1930s era South Bend lathe and a big ol' Craftsman drill press (which I still have) with an X/Y table.
There are 1000s of innovative work-arounds that shade-tree gunsmiths like my Dad used in order to accomplish what they wanted to do. Wish I knew 5% of what some of the old timer machinists I've worked with did. Much priceless knowledge dies with them. :'(
I was blessed for many years with the Bridgeport shown above, along with a Clausing 5914 lathe and a few other machines. Recently having to move (and soon to be moving again), I couldn't go all over the place with 5000# of iron in tow. I needed smaller machines that can be lifted into the back of a pickup with a cherry picker. I'll get by with them, but I won't be making any more black powder cannons. Airguns will have to do, lol.
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I ordered a PM-835S with the DRO and all three power feeds. I'm lazy and wanted to be back up and running as quickly as possible. With my lathe and all the airgun support equipment,is Idont believe I could fit anything larger in my little shop.
Good size and has most of the features of a Bridgeport. Reminds me of the old Rockwells. Kind of a mini-Bridgeport. I had a chance to buy a nice one ~30 years ago, with the horizontal spindle like this one...
(http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f12/7443d1225857790-milling-machine-rockwell-knee-mill-vertical-horizontal-2500-fl-mill-rockwell.jpg)
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My drill press has zero chatter as it's the best one that Rigid makes for small shop and home use. I'm waffling on the rotating table, but it's the only way I can think of to get a stepped edge for inserts like these.
(https://www.intershoot.co.uk/acatalog/gehmann546element.jpg)
Those are just my starter projects and what got me thinking about an axis table. I have $150 in Amazon gift dollars I need to spend anyway.
Lemme attempt to 'splain one way you might make your sight inserts without a rotary table, using the X/Y table and your drill press.
First, drill your hole in the disk blank roughly on center.
Make a mandrel. This can just be a cap screw, bolt or whatever with the head cut off. The diameter of the screw should be a close fit to the hole in the disk.
Assemble your disk to the mandrel, sandwiched between a washer and nut on either side of the disk.
Put the mandrel assembly in the chuck of your drill press, positioning the disk as close to the chuck jaws as practical.
Now you will need to somehow affix a small (1/4" square will work fine) lathe turning bit to your X/Y table. A small (1" or 2"), inexpensive aluminum vise will do. You can clamp the tool bit either horizontally or vertically in the vise. Keep in mind that you will need a small vise to do much of anything using your X/Y table anyway.
Congratulations. You've created a crude (but useful for your purpose) vertical lathe. Using the quill as your Z axis, you now have three axes (XYZ) to work with. You can position the tool bit with the X/Y table in relation to your disk, "turn" the OD by pulling the quill handle down (checking it with calipers) so that the disk contacts the cutting edge of the tool bit, and in similar fashion cut your step to the correct depth and diameter.
I hope the above is reasonably understandable. One can make poppets, pins, modified fasteners and all kinds of goodies using variations of this method.
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Lemme attempt to 'splain one way you might make your sight inserts without a rotary table, using the X/Y table and your drill press.
First, drill your hole in the disk blank roughly on center.
Make a mandrel. This can just be a cap screw, bolt or whatever with the head cut off. The diameter of the screw should be a close fit to the hole in the disk.
Assemble your disk to the mandrel, sandwiched between a washer and nut on either side of the disk.
Put the mandrel assembly in the chuck of your drill press, positioning the disk as close to the chuck jaws as practical.
Now you will need to somehow affix a small (1/4" square will work fine) lathe turning bit to your X/Y table. A small (1" or 2"), inexpensive aluminum vise will do. You can clamp the tool bit either horizontally or vertically in the vise. Keep in mind that you will need a small vise to do much of anything using your X/Y table anyway.
Congratulations. You've created a crude (but useful for your purpose) vertical lathe. Using the quill as your Z axis, you now have three axes (XYZ) to work with. You can position the tool bit with the X/Y table in relation to your disk, "turn" the OD by pulling the quill handle down (checking it with calipers) so that the disk contacts the cutting edge of the tool bit, and in similar fashion cut your step to the correct depth and diameter.
I hope the above is reasonably understandable. One can make poppets, pins, modified fasteners and all kinds of goodies using variations of this method.
Well, creative minds think alike!
I had considered exactly what you describe above. What took me away from that direction is that the hole size is so small and precise as to basically eliminate using it as an "arbor hole". These sights are commercially available with hole ID's of from 2mm up to 4 (or more) in 0.2mm increments. That's how particular some shooters are, and though I don't shoot competitively, count me among them. I don't see how I could spin that disc on a say, 1.5mm arbor to mill the edge, then come back and drill the center out to a larger ID and maintain the precision level that I'm able to obtain in the first drilling.
As I mentioned before, the edge step is not really necessary. It just helps to keep the insert perfectly centered in the front globe receiver. Let's say that a shooter has his sights set perfect, but wants to change out the insert for one of a larger ID to improve the sight picture (i.e. see more of the bull). With the stepped edge (and assuming that both discs are perfectly and identically machined) all he would have to do is remove the disc holder (see pic) change out the disc and screw it back into the globe. Theoretically he should not have to adjust his sights thereafter. Without the step, you simply remove the holder and slip in a different disc, however the discs must have some amount of clearance on the OD so as not to bind on the internal threads of the globe. That amount of clearance could cause the disc to sit differently inside the globe and necessitate a readjustment of the sights. It could be that even with the step, a readjustment is necessary anyway, so making the stepped edge (for me) is something I think I could do without having to add as a feature. Most of the inserts I've seen on the market don't have that step on them anyway.
Just to confuse things even more I am going to exchange the word "receiver" with the term "holder".
Here is a pic of a front holder that would accept a stepped edge disc. The stepped edge OD of the disc would fit into the fingered end and then the paired unit would screw into the globe housing.
(http://www.champchoice.com/IMAGES_PRODUCT/001074_LG.JPG)
Here is a pic of the sight on my MP532 disassembled. This sight has disc holders both front and rear. The small brass ringed item is a 1.5x lens.
(https://i.postimg.cc/43XcfTjm/532-front-sight-parts.jpg)
Here is the unit assembled. The rear holder does not screw in completely because of the thickness of the 1.5x lens and the disc inside. This particular globe is designed for thin metal apertures in which case the holders would screw in completely, but it works just fine with plastic inserts as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJDBPH6s/532-front-sight.jpg)
So, bottom line is that I really don't need to do a stepped edge. It was just something I saw done and wanted to investigate how I could do it.
Thanks for all your input guys, and again, my apologies for getting off topic. :D
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OK Dennis, you got me curious about what could be done with hole cutter approach.
This was 2mm unknown material (scavenged from a liquor gift box) and I just hand ground a step in a thin cutter blank. The remaining ledge is thin so I did get an edge crack but that is just process improvement. Centration was pretty good, about what I can measure with a casual caliper measurement. All the features are done in one drill press step out of sheet stock.
Fun stuff, even learned a bit.
Note that XY table dropped to $72.99 at BG
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Looks like you are at the entrance of the mini lathe rabbit hole.
That's what I'm a bit worried about.
Don't worry, embrace the idea of a lathe at your disposal!
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Stan, that looks really really good. The only thing I can see as a problem is going back and re-drilling the center hole to exact dimensions such 2.0, 2.2, 2.4 and on up to 4.0mm and having a clean hole when finished. The the most critical thing on these inserts is the size and perfection of the center hole. Otherwise it's useless.
Don't worry, embrace the idea of a lathe at your disposal!
Yeah, I've been embracing that idea for some time now. I just need to stop buying guns, make some space in the garage and get one! ;)
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Dennis, the hole cutter (image below) I made accepts the common 1/8" shank drill bits (dremel, etc) so you would just pick the right size bit. The goal was to make it a one step drill and cut operation so you don't have to find center again. I don't use these inserts so this was a "can I do this" type of exercise. The easiest way to do this might be to make an adapter to an commercial hole cutter (usually 1/4" drill) to accept either 1/8" shank drill bits or attach something like a small collet.
I think making these with a lathe is a little tricky, though I'm no expert.
I'm still surprised that the laser cut tolerances that your vendor gave you are so loose. All the cheap things I've bought that were laser cut fit together well. I would expect tolerances in the .05 mm range not .5 mm
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FWIW
I contacted the seller of that small rotatory table, per the seller,
the total overall depth/thickness of this table is 1-5/8" thick/tall,
now, to find a small 4 jaw chuck. ;D
Tia,
Don
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Well....in the GTA spirit of enabling...You can buy a 3" Chinese 4 jaw in America https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1175&category=566826475 (https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1175&category=566826475) and http://www.cdcotools.com/ (http://www.cdcotools.com/) (look under machine tooling lathe tooling ..I have not ordered from CDCO)...Or you can buy a Chinese 3" 4 jaw in China https://www.banggood.com/SANOU-K72-Lathe-Chuck-80100125mm-4-Jaw-Independent-Hardened-Reversible-Tool-p-1152296.html (https://www.banggood.com/SANOU-K72-Lathe-Chuck-80100125mm-4-Jaw-Independent-Hardened-Reversible-Tool-p-1152296.html)
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Thanks Stan
The first one is the better option, less total overall height add the rotatory table total height,
gives me 8" more of height working room on my mill, than the OEM table I have now,
which 8" + tall, for the same combo heights. ;)
Thank you,
Don
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Don,
Here is a very similar 3" 4 jaw on a 4 inch rotary. I don't remember where I got them. The table is about 3" high. I made the mounting plate but it does not eat up much height. Overall about 5".
How are you going to mount the chuck to the 3" table?