Interesting. I don’t recall it but I haven’t been on the forum near as long as most. How did it perform overall? What were any drawbacks?Dave
The craziest concoction of valve / strike & control was this one that you may recall ?My inverted poppet Balanced valve ... Adjustable hammer stroke ... Adjustable poppet lift & strike / bounce buffering with an SSG cartridge.Yea the whole box of tricks in one application.
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If you just want a hammer de-bouncer I made one that worked. It was a leaf spring with a hardened shoe that blocked the hammer after firing, the shoe had to be reset before the hammer could be re-cocked. The shoe was flat on the front to block the hammer and angled on the back so that the hammer could lift the shoe going forward, the leaf spring was very light providing no resistance to the hammer going forward but stiff enough to prevent the hammer from moving back. The leaf spring pivoted so that it could be put in the hammers path for firing, and then turned aside to re-cock the hammer. The leaf spring pivoted on a screw mounted on the tube, there was a small curved slot in the tube to allow the shoe to pivot. It was impossible for the hammer to move once it striked the valve stem.
Quote from: JPSAXNC on August 26, 2023, 01:13:40 PMIf you just want a hammer de-bouncer I made one that worked. It was a leaf spring with a hardened shoe that blocked the hammer after firing, the shoe had to be reset before the hammer could be re-cocked. The shoe was flat on the front to block the hammer and angled on the back so that the hammer could lift the shoe going forward, the leaf spring was very light providing no resistance to the hammer going forward but stiff enough to prevent the hammer from moving back. The leaf spring pivoted so that it could be put in the hammers path for firing, and then turned aside to re-cock the hammer. The leaf spring pivoted on a screw mounted on the tube, there was a small curved slot in the tube to allow the shoe to pivot. It was impossible for the hammer to move once it striked the valve stem.May as well share some pics.
I would like some thoughts from those who have studied and/or designed valves. We’ve seen a few different style valves come to market. Some hammer fired, some not. What are the things that make a valve system good vs what you don’t like?Some things I feel are important ESEfficiency Easy to actuate (cocking/triggering)Some things that turn me offHard cockingFirst shot inconsistencies Odd triggering (like the L2)What are some of your opinions on what makes a valve good or bad?Dave
Quote from: sb327 on August 15, 2023, 01:56:10 PMI would like some thoughts from those who have studied and/or designed valves. We’ve seen a few different style valves come to market. Some hammer fired, some not. What are the things that make a valve system good vs what you don’t like?Some things I feel are important ESEfficiency Easy to actuate (cocking/triggering)Some things that turn me offHard cockingFirst shot inconsistencies Odd triggering (like the L2)What are some of your opinions on what makes a valve good or bad?DaveIt all really depends on application. For example, in a big bore (.357/9mm) I designed and built, the design was higher pressure w/smaller plenum. Smaller than PCP, which usually utilizes the entire air reservoir. A shot fired from a fixed cc at X psi yields different results than an entire tube pressure vessel that meters how much air is used per shot.That being said, in the build, I went with a sort-of balanced valve design, but dumps all air to make the best use of what is there. Instead of using a small pilot hole vent at the rear of the seal area to generate back pressure to close the valve, the stem is hollow. The vent is strictly atmosphere. Many benefits to this in the application. Here is a video showing the construction:
David , have you looked at the Umarex Hammer valve ? it appears to be a qev valve somewhat similar to your build..I think being easy to open is paramount. Eliminating the valve stem and moving it to the front of the poppet in a conventional hammer valve is something i explored. Getting that .125 stem out of the throat requires less poppet diam , less throat diam etc
Hey, thanks you two. I don't proclaim to be a machinist by any stretch, but certainly dabble and find myself always learning. That's the fun part. The knowledge is two-fold. Both in using the machines and making an idea come to fruition. I certainly didn't invent anything with that valve, but certainly reversed engineered what was found on the net to solve a problem indeed. LOL. Just got a brand new lathe (9x20) and still have it on the crate bottom. Too heavy for me to man-handle up to the bench. Will be picking up one of the many free Hoyer lifts on FB Marketplace this weekend to lift it into place. Had the thing nearly a month now and it's just staring at me. The delivery driver was kind enough to wheel it up my drive and park it in my garage. Of course, tipped him generously for looking out. Got a few more projects to work on, such as an IZH-61 Chinese clone to convert to .22 and another big bore pumper. The pumper is going to be a retirement gift for my Lieutenant/pal.
Quote from: Rob M on August 23, 2023, 10:01:52 PMDavid , have you looked at the Umarex Hammer valve ? it appears to be a qev valve somewhat similar to your build..I think being easy to open is paramount. Eliminating the valve stem and moving it to the front of the poppet in a conventional hammer valve is something i explored. Getting that .125 stem out of the throat requires less poppet diam , less throat diam etcI finally found a drawing of the Hammer valve. My inline pilot works quite similarly with a couple small differences but essentially the same qev method of operation. My conventional (not inline) pilot is quite different. It has some similarities to the L2 valve. Which is a qev type valve. I’ve been able to get it into a Marauder valve housing that has been opened up. So it’ll fit in a small area. Dave