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Stronger FDM 3D prints, using "brick layering"

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subscriber:






rsterne:
Haven't watched the videos yet, but it seems to me all that is needed is the right slicer program.... Not a new idea, but I don't know of a slicer that will do it yet.... Maybe in the videos?....

Those links didn't work, maybe try these.....

youtube.com/watch?v=5hGm6cubFVs

youtube.com/watch?v=9IdNA_hWiyE

So this gem is tied up in Patents?....  ::)

Bob






Bob

subscriber:
Bob,

Your links work.  Mine display the video thumbnails in my Chrome browser.  Clicking the image runs the video.

Anyway, it seems that brick layering is only 10% stronger than conventional FDM filament layering.  Significant for those test pieces, but not massively stronger.

I think if one prints a tensile test piece at 45 degrees off vertical you induce the brick layering effect.  You might even have made and tested such test pieces.

I think that if you have proper fusion between layers, then mechanical interlocking is not required.

One disturbing aspect is that after the 1995 patent for such printing expired the USPTO issued another one for essentially the same invention.  As if the examiners were not on the ball.

rsterne:
Some test coupons for 3D filament are printed with alternating layers at 45 degrees, just like what you see when you print infill.... IIRC, they are quite strong, but I have not tried them, the lines are printed on the X-Y plane at +- 45 deg. but then the force is applied in X or Y, so not really the same thing.... It's like pulling on a piece of plywood cut on the bias....

I assume you are talking about having the test section printed in Z, with a 30 deg. overhang on one side and a 30 deg. slope on the other side, where the layer height and thickness are equal?.... That produces a hexagonal matrix of round beads, but you end up with every other layer one bead shorter (producing a zig-zag edge).... Every bead touches 6 others (except the edges).... If you print beads that are not round, they must be laid down horizontally, and are usually wider than they are tall, like a brick (like the pics above).... The angle along the "edge" of the layers depends on the ratio of width to height, those appear to be about 2:1 and the angle is roughly 45 deg. along the contact patch.... The contact patch lines up if you go up 3 layers and over 2 bead widths.... However, if you turn that pic 45 deg. the beads are no longer horizontal, unless they are round.... Clear as mud, right?....  ::)

Bob

subscriber:
Thanks, Bob

My suggestion was closer to what you described in the second paragraph.

Perhaps the metric that is more important is that when a part is overloaded in the Z axis, it fails through the material, rather than between layers.  That would make for a strong print, up to material strength. 

How to achieve that is the question.

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