GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => China/Asian AirGun Gate => Topic started by: agdodge4x4 on September 19, 2018, 01:22:08 PM
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A while back I bought a Beeman Sportsman 1000 Series air rifle used. It was functioning pretty well. However, I now have a problem and I would like to fix it!
1.) I have done a lot of reading online and am finding almost no information on "Sportsman 1000 Series". Any insight as to what I have and how to disassembly it for repair is appreciated and needed as I need to replace the piston seal.
2.) The front sight is damaged. Can I remove and replace this sight? It is plastic, but I cannot see how it is installed on the barrel.
I have been through the library, and while I will clean this gun, I just want to get it up and running. There is a blip in the library about tuning this gun, but the link does not work for me. I'm finding diddly for suitable disassembly instructions, much less parts for this gun.
Anyway, I need some guidance on parts and taking this gun apart safely.
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I haven't located any material indicating how to take this gun apart. The one link in the library that looks promising seems to be dead. So I think I'm going to just dive in this weekend. I can rig up a compressor device after I see how its assembled, if I need to. I think once the stock is off, it should be pretty self explanatory. 8)
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Best start here http://charliedatuna.com/DO's-%20DONT's.htm (http://charliedatuna.com/DO's-%20DONT's.htm)
Please be carefull, full power springer rifles are preloaded a lot...
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Thanks for the info!
I have to find the piston seal first. I have had no response to phone calls or email to Beeman. No where else do I see reference to this rifle or parts for it. If I cannot source the parts, then there is no reason to proceed any further. LOL.
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You may have to take a detour. If you disassemble the gun first you can measure the compression tube diameter or the diameter of the old seal. Get the diameter of the hole in the center as well. With that information you can probably find one that fits.
If you want a new spring, the thickness of the wire used to wind it is very important. It is a determining factor of the power of the spring. Get the inner or outer diameter of the spring as well as they'll be needed to ensure it will fit into the compression tube. The number of coils is important as only so many will fit into the compression tube with the gun cocked. If the spring is too long the gun won't cock.
In short, you do not need a spring or seal for a Beeman 1000, only parts that FIT. Of course if you find what gun these parts DO commonly fit you can order for that gun next time.
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I believe you'll need the Beeman GS 1000/950 Piston Seal - check PA (Pyramyd Air) as they have them and a pic so you can see exactly what they look like. Also I
am thinking you'll need a short segment of pipe or tubing that just fits inside compression tube with one half of it cut away about an inch of a half long to use in
getting past/around or through the trigger assembly/mechanism as you use a spring compressor to control spring pressure. If I recall correctly I used a 2.5" piece
of 7/8s inch copper tubing with one end cut in half 1.5" - the halfed end inserted first to get past trigger assembly. I used it on 2 staged trigger Norica springers
which are pretty much the same as the Beeman Chinese springers with two stage triggers.
Air Rifle Headquarters (Jim Maccari) I'm pretty sure has a spring for this rifle - look down his two page list, I think it's on page 2.
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Now we're cookin!
Thanks guys! I am going to go ahead and pull the stock. From there I can assess the disassembly. With info from airsenal and pics I've seen of compressors, I should be able to figure out what to build and how to use it.
I SUSPECT the piston seal is completely disintegrated, but obviously, I do not KNOW that until I open it up. Even so, I can measure as Roadworthy suggests. I have a caliper.
Now, why do I NEED to replace the spring? Is there a reason to if the existing spring is not broken?
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I didn't say you NEED to replace the spring. I was only trying to share a bit of information regarding how to get one should you need one. If you can't find one listed for your gun, with that information you can locate a suitable substitute.
As far as spring compressors go - you can find construction information in the GTA library. Mine doesn't remotely resemble anything shown there but it's still good information to have.
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Thank you so much for the time and advice, all.
I have the stock off. In the link you will find photos of my gun. It appears as though this is NOT a caged trigger assembly. It looks to be very simple and has only a couple of springs.
I am not sure that the spring compressor described will work. I have not really studied the gun but it’s not immediately obvious how to compress the spring. I’m not sure what it’s resting on.
It will not let me post my google photo link. I’ll get photos up ASAP.
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Go back and read the post by "Arsenal" above. He tells how to make the tool to compress the spring.
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Yes. I have reviewed that again. I understand the tool and how it is used.
I also looked at this gun again and that tool will not be needed as is is described. IN this gun, in my pics, you can see a 'square' part. That piece is part of the trigger block. It protrudes from the end about 1/8". All I need here is a standard compressor setup that holds pressure on that while I remove the pins and back it out.
EDIT: I just saw a page with the attached pic
This is NOT MY GUN, but it looks relatively similar and I see a tool made here that is as described.
Which way do these pins knock out?
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You appear to be really good with the pictures. Thank you for that. The last picture is probably the most confusing to me. On many airguns the pins hold the trigger assembly. The instructions on the last picture seem to imply that is not the case with this rifle. I do have a thought on the matter, though. Compress on the square extending from the gun - just a wee bit. The pins should relatively easily be removed. Back off the compressor and the trigger assembly will follow it until it is stopped by that cross piece. At this point use the tool to compress the spring again. The trigger assembly should then have no pressure and slip easily out the bottom. You may then relax pressure on the spring allowing removal of the spring and piston. Note - the cocking lever will need to be detached from the piston before the piston can be removed. Beware - I've never seen the gun in person, never dismantled one, and this whole paragraph is only a guess on my part.
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Thanks Roadworthy! IN regards to the last picture, I will explain below, hopefully it will then make sense.
I've studied my rifle a bit more and 'tested' a little. I can actually push at least one of those pins out with my finger if I press the gun on something solid against that square piece and relax it. They are quite literally friction fit depending purely on spring pressure and held captive by the stock of the rifle otherwise.
However, I do not think this is the procedure as the trigger assembly does not come out the BACK of the rifle. I think Airsenal got it and i think I understand it.
Here is how I THINK it should come apart.
First, I MUST build the compressor. Disassembly is not possible without it.
The compressor as explained by Airsenal must be inserted in the end and you must compress that spring at least an inch or two toward the front of the gun. This will allow the pressure to be removed from the trigger assembly, and it will allow the pins to be removed. Also, at this point, you will have cleared the 'opening' where the trigger is. It should now be free of the spring block, and with the pins out, the entire trigger assembly, fully assembled, will push forward toward the front of the gun and pull out. From there, the spring can be relaxed back toward the rear of the gun and come out the back. The cocking lever should be pretty obvious once I get to that point. I believe this to be the procedure as there are trigger pins that are held captive by the air chamber/cylinder walls. Therefore, there is no way to disassemble the trigger group prior to removing it in its entirety.
We'll see. I have to dig around in my barn and see if I have any tubing to build a compressor. With the compressor, this should be a very easy, fast, and simple disassembly.
Sorry for all the wordy overthinking. I work on vehicles, tractors, and mechanical stuff all the time and I can assure you I can put on safety glasses and start beating pins out, but If I am right here, then it would not only damage the trigger assembly, it may destroy it and the cylinder and likely make it very difficult if not impossible to reassemble without further damage. Planning and understanding is everything, I believe.
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Instructions for building a spring compressor may be found in the GTA Library. I'll try to attach pictures of mine as well. The basis is usually a C clamp and a board.
If I understand things the compressor can push against the square piece. That will relieve spring pressure and allow the pins to be removed. When you back off the compressor you install the tool. Crank the compressor again and the tool should slip past the trigger to the spring. Compress the spring to relieve pressure on the trigger package. The entire package may then be removed from the bottom of the gun.
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I GOT IT APART!!!!
my work bench is wood, so I built my compressor with blocks screwed to the wood and clamped everything down.
I used a long pipe clamp, unfortunately, it was not quite long enough to fully decompress the spring but by the time it got to that point there wasn’t but a little pressure and I could wrangle it by hand. It is exactly as airsenal said...about 4” of pre load on a beefy spring. It’s out safely and apart. It came apart exactly as I described.
The seal is completely gone. I’ll post a pic. I had to put it in my parts washer to clean all of the goop and seal pieces out. It’s clean now.
When I get ready to reassemble, I will modify my compressor a little with a threaded rod or bolt...or c clamp to facilitate easier assembly. Everything looks ok. All pieces are there and in working order. Just need a seal and a tune up.
The pic shows how the trigger comes out.
Bore is 25.83mm, bass where seal sits on piston is 25.00mm.
Need a seal for this.
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Yup, that piston seal is absolutely fried. Luckily, 25mm is a common size.
Should be able to find a replacement without too much trouble.
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I got the screw out that held the sea in place but it was a real pain and the threads are buggered up on it. It went back in and holds ok but now I realize that it was pinned and I never saw the pin screw. Wonder if I can just give that pin screw another 1/16 turn and repin or do I have to replace both screws?
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You ca get your parts from arrow guy.
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Ok. I got my feelers our for parts. Now, I’ve been reading docs and pages and links about lubes for a couple of hours and I’m confused as ever. What is a suitable lube for this gun for the piston seal? I read that full synthetic is good and so is something called Krytox, but that’s pricier than I’d like to spend given that this gun isn’t exactly a high end unit. I have full synthetic motor oil out the wazoo though. But what should I do here?
I’m also confused on how you can achieve proper lubrication of the seal of you only lightly coat the outside edges of it and the cylinder is slides in is dry.
Thoughts?
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Moly works well on seals, too. This is a concoction consisting of at lest sixty percent molybdenum disulfide. You can purchase it from Air Rifle Headquarters if you get your seal there. He has a pretty good price on a good quantity of it. If you go to Vortek they may sell it as well. You could even just purchase molybdenum disulfide powder and burnish it into the compression tube. If you do smear moly compound into the compression tube make sure it's a VERY light coat then wipe it out. A very thin layer will remain. Add a small amount on the lip of the piston seal and you're set. Add some to the sides of the piston. I like to put some on the cocking shoe or in the cocking slot as well. While the gun's apart file any sharp edges off your cocking slot. They can slice a new seal.
Note - when you get the new seal onto the piston and the piston into the compression tube it should take two to three pounds of force to move it in the compression tube. If it takes much more the seal should be sized. If it takes much less than that the seal is too small.
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I am seeing I have the option to buy just a pair of piston seals for this gun OR I can buy a seal, piston body, spring guide and seal screw. What circumstances would warrant one buying a new piston body and spring guide instead of just reusing everything and getting a pair of seals??
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After listing all those parts you never said whether it was a tune kit or individual parts. If they're sold individually that may be a spare parts list. Had you damaged the piston and/or screw during disassembly I can see the advantage of an available spare. The spring guide is frequently some type of plastic or nylon and can be broken. If your only damaged part is a piston seal that's the part to get. I don't know the gun at all so I can't tell you why they're in sets of two - if they're sold that way. Perhaps they don't hold up well.
If they are as poor as they appear you could probably still score a seal at Air Rifle Headquarters or Vortek. I recall yours was about 26 mm. Too large can be sized down. It's a lot harder to add material to one that starts too small.
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Yeah, these are factory parts available in kits. Just OEM Stuff.
Option 1:
Two Piston Seals
Option 2:
Piston Seal
Seal Screw
Piston Body
FRONT Spring Guide
My spring front spring guide is steel. The fact that this kit was available made me question whether it was needed. I can't see how you could damage a chunk of steel like a piston body.
I'll just get the seals.
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Piston damage could occur from wear on the cocking area or the sear latching area could become rounded and no longer latch. One could also damage the seal retaining screw hole threads. I do not know how likely any of these possibilities are but they ARE possibilities.
Given the track record of oem seals on that gun I'd probably get them elsewhere - but that's me.
If you want to smooth you gun out a bit polish the ends of your spring while it's apart. I use 150 grit wet or dry paper on a flat under water. Hold the spring perpendicular to the flat and work in a circular motion. It sounds simple but it makes a real difference.
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I spoke to a technician at Pyramyd. They do not have the seal in stock, and expressed concern that the supplier when they come in may be different from what is pictured. He actually suggested I order one out of the UK for a Norica. Seal is 26mm, they sell the screw and breech seal as well. He said that seal should last the lifetime of the gun. So...now we wait!
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Your gun takes a 26 mm seal. That's what I thought. That's about 1.024". I still suggest Air Rifle Headquarters as a potential source for your seal. I think it will hit pretty close to right on: http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/43077.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/43077.htm) They call it their Apex Small Seal. As I recall it's just over an inch in outside diameter. If it's too large it can be resized. There are seals on either side of it size wise but I think that's the one you're after.
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You guys are tempting me to get a B19 just to tune it up.
I’ve only had one, and thought it was wretched compared to a B25 or Remington Express. Of course not close to a D48.
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Roadworthy,
I would get them there, but those seals are not of the same shape and form as the one on my rifle. I have attached what mine look like. These are secured to the piston with a screw.
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Alright. I got my parts in. I ordered Norica parts from Airgunspares.com in the UK. I got a new piston seal and a new seal screw.
PROBLEM.
The seal fits the cylinder fine. The seal fits the new seal perfectly, very tight tolerances. The new screw does not thread into my piston body as the screw is a hair bigger in diameter. My old screw does not fit the new seal as the HEAD is to big around for it to sit recessed in the seal. Also, the shoulder on the old screw is not quite as tall. So...I see that I have a few options here:
1.) Modify the seal to accept the OLD screw.
2.) Re-tap the piston body to accept the NEW screw.
3.) Put the old screw in a drill and turn it against a file to reduce the head diameter so it fits the new seal. The shoulder will still be short, which will result in the seal being 'squished' a bit more, but I don't have any other choice there.
4.) Throw all of that in the trash and get a new seal, piston body, and screw from Beeman directly. (This not worthy because the seal not worthy and its going to disintigrate again.
What do I do here? How critical is this?
Right now, I am leaning toward option 3 as I have most control over the outcome. ,I want to use option 2 but Option 2 is a risk.
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I'd do that too - also might be good idea to use medium thread locker goo like Blue Loctite or Vibra-tite. You should be shootin' that rifle soon ;D
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Well, I got it back together. The first shot seems to poop out some &^^& into the barrel. Not sure what. The cylinder was clean. I ran a snake through it and got it cleaned out. It shoots now, and it hits HARD. The issue is that I can't get the "dang" thing on paper at 40 feet. I am using the open sights, and when adjusted to the extreme far end of its range, it still hits about 6" high and 4" to the right. On top of that it shoots a group that seems to be minute of barn. No more adjustment. I'm not worried about elevation, I can fix that by moving back. I cannot, however, fix windage. I tried with two different kinds of pellets.
One is some kind of crosman with a ballistic tip plastic insert, the other is some old pellets I had from 20 years ago as a kid. Those were used in my Crosman pump up pellet gun and I could nail a blackbird in the neck at 25 yard without a whole lot of issue.
It would be cool to have a nice strong pellet gun though. Most of what I know about FIREarms does not apply to these spring type guns so I need some guidance.