...MikeyB wrote an excellent article on how to adjust that trigger I hope he won't mind me attaching a link to here. If he does, I'll happily remove it:...
I've been tinkering on and off with a .25 cal refurb I spent a whopping $40 for so if I screwed something up (I did...lol) I wouldn't be out much. The screw up was stripping the barrel pivot screw head. Whoever put it in there apparently did not want it to ever come back out and after trying every other way I could think of, ended up drilling it to get it out and the barrel off. Problem there was I drilled more than a bit off so now the right side barrel fork has an oval shaped hole instead of a round, threaded one. Only fix I can think of there is to get someone to weld that hole, then drill and re-tap if I decide to, since I have a brand new barrel pivot screw for it.The guess until now for the few of us who own them is except for a few pieces, the entire thing was synthetic. I can now say that's correct. The breech block/shroud assembly is all one big molded piece that was then fitted for the parts and pieces in it. I won't detail all the dumb stuff I did to find out what I'm about to type, I'll just type it the way you need to do things should you decide you want to...lol. I'm also going to do this in separate posts just to break the pictures up. I'll start with the moderator. It's actually baffled and they're removeable. If you look at the very front of the shroud, you'll see 2 roll pins. Punch those out (not so easy when you don't have roll pin punches but I'll be buying a set) and that front cap pops off to allow easy access to the baffle setup, which is all one piece and should just slide out. As you can see in the pics, they were molded in halves, then snapped together during assembly. Maybe just easier to mold that way?? Mine is in pieces because not realizing at the time about those roll pins, I got a Dremel out and started cutting. Don't do that, don't need to...lol.
...On the AirTact subject I take the opportunity to ask you, or any GTA member, know a way of repairing a slightly damaged breach seal. It happens that one of my .177 AirTacts is a little under the others energy level (~15 ft-lb instead of ~17 ft-lb). I attribute this to slightly torn breech seal and not having found who sells them, and considering also that the damage is not a major one, wondered myself if there is not some product (a rubber glue alike?) that can be applied on the seal to fill the small cut.I'll be grateful if someone post a hint on this!Best regards for all,Sergio
Random guess on my part having never tried it, but those orings you used to fill that moderator?? It may take 2 to make it work, but you may be able to just use a couple of the right sided orings to fit the breech enough to make it work until you can find real replacements. As for finding them? Try Sharg in Poland. They have quite a few Hatsan replacement parts and may have some.
As for finding them? Try Sharg in Poland. They have quite a few Hatsan replacement parts and may have some.
Hello Michael!Your suggestion of removing the current breech seal and re-applying it back-in (is that, isn't?) seems a very good one. So you say that the bottom of the seal does not have the same geometry of the top but will still seal OK? Look closely at links provided and it is clear the seal is asymmetric. I'm not certain, but I think it will work if reversed. IMO the tubular style breech seal "inflates" during the pressure pulse and provides a better seal than a simple o-ring. If that is true, then flipping seal around to bury the damaged edge INSIDE should provide a better seal. This is an easy no wait no cost test.Do you think I'll be able to remove the seal without damaging it? Removing seal without causing more damage to it can be difficult. I found using compressed air helped.Best regards,Sergio