Yesterday I was making some groups with my .45, 15 shots total, and after shooting I noticed I blasted a hole in the back of my cast iron wood stove back stop. The castings are easily 3/16" thick, maybe 1/4", and two layers on the back. What are you guys using for back stops that allow you to recover the spent lead?
Quote from: Spacebus on October 25, 2021, 04:40:31 PMYesterday I was making some groups with my .45, 15 shots total, and after shooting I noticed I blasted a hole in the back of my cast iron wood stove back stop. The castings are easily 3/16" thick, maybe 1/4", and two layers on the back. What are you guys using for back stops that allow you to recover the spent lead?This guy makes these heavy duty bullet traps on a daily basis and sells them on eBay. Worth every penny when you just have to empty the pan sitting under the catch tube. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?isRefine=true&_pgn=1&sid=mark_schluender
The port job on the valve body was worth 40-50 FPS with the modified NSA 240 grain slugs, depending on pressure. I had only gotten 858 as a top speed before, and now it was 908. Aside from porting, the only other thing that I did additionally that would effect power was clean all the factory grease off the hammer weight and spring assembly and give it a shiny polish where the sear rides along the weight and opposite that where there were two small shiny witness marks as evidence of dragging. It has a better sound to the shot as well, partly because I put a 4" piece of bottle brush in the tube to stop the air hammer ping.
Quote from: Airgun-hobbyist on October 25, 2021, 08:08:26 PMThe port job on the valve body was worth 40-50 FPS with the modified NSA 240 grain slugs, depending on pressure. I had only gotten 858 as a top speed before, and now it was 908. Aside from porting, the only other thing that I did additionally that would effect power was clean all the factory grease off the hammer weight and spring assembly and give it a shiny polish where the sear rides along the weight and opposite that where there were two small shiny witness marks as evidence of dragging. It has a better sound to the shot as well, partly because I put a 4" piece of bottle brush in the tube to stop the air hammer ping. What's the diameter of the bottle brush? I would like to do the same.
I got the lead chamfer finished ,my photo didn't turn out very good ,I found a spring at ace hdwr to replace the poppet return sprig , it was longer so I cut it off with about 1/4 inch sticking above the valve body ,this way I can add washers to adjust tension on the poppet ,also installed a brush depinger (it works) , got it all back together and had to cock the rifle to get the poppet to seal this is with a scba bottle so hand pumpers might not want to swap springs , shot a mag over the chrony first shot was 940fps next 4 were errors ,not sure what's going on there ,think I need a more stable tripod for the chrony ,the blast of air shakes the chrony . Sighted in at 20 yrds , not great group but was trying to keep it stable shooting off a wobbly rest , my accurate mold should be here tmrw.just a heads up you have to get the rod that connects the trigger to the sear just right or the gun will not cock .
You have 13mm of threads and 15 mm until the shoulder, it has a 16mm groove for an O ring? or at least a space where they cut the threads, and is an M18x1mm thread.
Looks like barrel dimensions to me. And that 16mm groove is for thread relief not for o ring. Marko
Making a adapter for that one could make pretty effective silencer.Marko
Does the shroud have an endcap ? .........just send the endcap to Neil Clague.