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1
Simple? Maybe the 22 aea challenger SL. Dont think you could get simpler. Wayne52 seems to enjoy his with cast slugs very much. Quality? Fx crown,royal or dreamline. The fx offerings would give you multiple cal possibilities.
2
Learned this trick from a shooter on a UK forum. Cut the inside end of the liner like you see in the pics while leaving the center clear for the latching rod.
Top hat presses on those and holds your liner in place .

Looks like the R1 OEM metal piston liner
3
Optics, Range estimation & related subjects / Re: Scope rings?
« Last post by Yogi on Today at 10:29:25 PM »
Buy the cheapest rings you can find and then lap your rings.  Otherwise buy a quality set where you believe that they are round and truly centered.

-Y
4
Optics, Range estimation & related subjects / Re: Scope rings?
« Last post by Bayman on Today at 10:24:18 PM »
Do you use rings which come with the scope, or do you buy aftermarket rings of a better quality?

My most expensive gun is under $600, I have several $100 scopes and only a Leapers that I paid somewhat more than that.
I generally use rings that come with the scope but I also have some UTG rings, a set of BKL and others.  Nothing very expensive.
Some of my scopes seem to cant off to the left side a small bit, I have not checked this with a mirror, but I am thinking it is cheaper rings or mounts causing this. If not it may be my installations.  I use levels.




So my questions do better quality rings make a big difference?  I don't really want to get into paying more for my rings than the scopes they are mounted to. 

Scope cant can be a big deal particularly on bullpups with hi mounting heights.

Thanks in advance



I don't shoot springers, so I am not concerned with large recoil forces,  and use whatever comes with the scope.  If none, I find that the cheapies, with 4 clamping screws on each ring are just fine.  I think the last ones I got were "Sniper" branded.

Your "cant" problem needs more description.  The scopes always point to the left of POI/barrel bore?  On same gun or different guns?  Have you stuck a straight edge on the rail to try to eyeball if the rail is the issue?  Have you tried reversing the rings so the front is in the back and vice-versa?   Are the rings installed such that all the rail clamp screws are all on the right side or all on the left side, and not one one way and the other the other?

Sorry if this is insultingly basic, gotta start somewhere...


Nothing taken as an insult.
I am referring to PCPs, CO2 and some pumpers. 
a few different guns.
I mount all of my rings with the bolt(s)/lever on the same side.
When I say the scope is canted I mean that it appears to be leaning to the left of center front and pack.  It is parallel with the barrel and receiver.
The leaning to the left is only barely noticeable if you are looking for it.
When I mount the scope level with the breach, and I look through the scope my vertical crosshair is to the left of the centerline of breach/barrel and needs to be rotated counterclockwise looking from the rear to align them closely, and it is now out of level a bit.
  Now that I think about this may be my eyes playing tricks on me.  Tonight I will look with my left eye and see what I get.


I zero most of my guns at 30 yds and two at 50. 
I have noticed that when I shoot closer than zero POI is to the left of POA and when I shoot longer it tends to go to the right.
Not all of my guns do this but a few do.  Guess I better make of record of which guns do what or I'm just p$%&ing up a rope.


I do have wheeler Fatwrench.
You'll find that the guns that lean (group) left inside of their zero and right past their zero have barrels that are bent or misaligned to the right . I've aligned many bent barrels.
Vertically bent barrels can easily be compensated. You can have up to two zero distances vertically because gravity always works in a vertical plane.

With a horizontally bent or misaligned barrels you only have one zero distance. When theoretically the horizontal zero should never change and only change with wind or projectile.
5
German AirGun Gate / Re: Afternoon groups with the new HW95 and questions
« Last post by Yogi on Today at 10:22:00 PM »
"What spring ID tolerance do you machine delrin guides to?"
I use "fit by feel" instead of measuring/tolerances. The reasons are that spring coils aren't especially "close toleranced" due to the metallurgy of the spring wire plus tempering consistency. LOL, I've had springs that were tighter on one end than the other and a machined guide that was a bit too loose in the "larger end" would indeed fit properly on the other end. Still, I suspect that making a guide a couple thou larger than the nominal spring ID would be less twangy than a loose factory guide.

By "fit to feel" I mean that the guide would push into a spring that has been "set" but can't be pulled straight out again due to the Chinese finger cuff principal..........

To remove one of my fitted spring guides I need to twist the guide counter to the spring wind while pulling so the grip on the guide is relaxed a bit. When I cut a guide that's too loose it goes into a "perhaps a different spring" bin. If too tight to push into the spring it gets "shaved" a thou or so till it fits with the "proper" snugness.

A couple things to note are that springs are smaller before "setting" when the gun is cocked so proper guide fit (what I call proper) is done after the spring is expanded by "setting".
As a side note, I read that a spring life could be improved and the velocity not affected very much by first "scragging" the spring by compressing the spring to "coil bound" for about 12 hours. Well, I used a piece of threaded rod with a couple flanged nuts and found that the "scragging" cost me 100fpe with a brand new aftermarket spring vs one that was set by cocking..........


Another thing I do is to smooth the spring ends and remove the sharp ends of the last coil. Some go to the trouble of actually polishing the ends but I only "smooth and de-burr"......
From To

OK,

Assume I have a broken spring guide.  I assume I might hear a krunching sound when cocking.  Maybe velocity has dropped a little, but not much.  What else would be symptoms?
Maybe not even the forementioned?

-Y
6
Air Gun Gate / Re: What airgun related did you do today?
« Last post by Spacebus on Today at 10:17:26 PM »
Went to the range and dialed in my .457 a bit better. I realized part of the problem was my ammo. Today I started getting into slugs I've cast more recently and they are more consistent and more accurate. Right now I'm sizing everything to .458, but I might take my sizing press/die with me to the range next time and try some in .457 and see if that's any better.

I love being a member of a private range, I can take a five gal water jug and my compressor with me and refill my bottle all day without bothering my wife. I was there for three hours and only one other guy showed up using the long range rifle range and left after a few dozen shots. I really enjoy shooting steel targets and not having to worry about lead spatter on my own property. Totally worth it for the two gallons of gas it takes me to get there and back, a drawback of living on the edge of the earth.

For some reason my Challenger fills super slow, I'll ask in one of the long AEA threads if anyone else has the same issue. It's not the worst thing in the world, but it takes two minutes or so to go from 180b up to 240b, and that's with the bottle valve wide open.


Sounds like a great place to shoot.  I was wondering if ranges would let you bring a compressor and plug it in for refilling.

I actually showed the club president and one of the directors over the weekend after a reloading class. They were stoked to see it and very impressed with the ring on the steel plate at 50m. Bobby's jaw about hit the floor when I told him how fast it sends those 222g hollow points. He thinks they will actually mushroom so much they may not pass through a deer and suggests I use FN slugs for hunting season. It was fun to just blast that steel plate and send lead frag into the berm. Some of my 50m shots with the Stormrider came back and landed on the roof of the shooting area.
7
I'd be happy with only 50% rejects, I'm close to 80% reject on my pellet mold. Bullets all work properly.
8
Back Room / Re: So....Whatcha Eating?
« Last post by Blowpipe Sam on Today at 10:06:48 PM »
Carter...
 When Hoosier Momma got home from work I was telling her about how I screwed up your post on your suggested Pimento Cheese spread grilled samich... and how great it sounded.
Her only reply?
"It needs a slice of Spam"

God as my witness.

I think you married a wonderful person.

 Fried spam

My arteries are hardening just thinking about it.
9
German AirGun Gate / Re: HW 57
« Last post by lefteyeshot on Today at 10:00:27 PM »
The only totally amputated finger from an air rifle I've heard of was caused by a break barrel.
Probably the Middle Finger ............ :P
That one should be used sparingly anyway ;).


Index.
10
Learned this trick from a shooter on a UK forum. Cut the inside end of the liner like you see in the pics while leaving the center clear for the latching rod.
Top hat presses on those and holds your liner in place .

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