GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: thumbs on August 05, 2022, 02:02:53 PM
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I have had this rifle for years but am getting back into shooting it. Pretty much have her dialed in but I would like to make the trigger lighter. Before I do something stupid how is this done. I know I have to adjust the screw behind the trigger but is there a trick to this? What I mean is does the rifle have to be in a particular condition like cocked or uncocked. May sound stupid but I have run into weird things before. I just started to adjust the screw but it seemed pretty tight. The rifle was uncocked. I just dont want to break something.
I read the manual but it says nothing more than clockwise increased trigger weight counter clockwise reduces trigger wight. I am assuming it can be done uncocked and unloaded (for sure) but want to do it right.
Thanks for the help
t
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Subscribed,
I remember a VERY detailed thread on this while I was awaiting my R9 but I'll be darned if I can find it now.
I could have sworn the major contributors were UglyMike, Mark 611, and Motohead.
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Thanks. Yeah I've looking and can't find anything other than left lighter right heavier. Nothing else. As soon as I start to turn the thing whatever I do will be wong. LOL It's not bad the way it is but I would like to try lighter.
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IIRC there are actually 3 screws and they all effect each other..... but that was read over a year ago. ::)
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Yeah thats why I stopped to find out the story. The manual on line talks only about the one screw. I realize it has to be tight but if I know thats the way it is ok if not I gotta find out before I screw it up. So to speak. LOL
I just posted in the German thread to see if there is anyone over there that knows. Between the two maybe I can get this thing adjusted. LOL
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Hey found this. Sounds like you just turn the screw.
https://youtu.be/wckit2cRc24
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There are two Rekord adjustment screws, the large screw behind the trigger blade and a smaller "forbidden screw" torx screw in front of the trigger blade that can't be adjusted unless the trigger guard is first removed and a torx driver is used (don't remember what size). There is also a sort of "1st stage takeup" adjustment by bending the tab in front of the trigger blade...........
(https://i.imgur.com/TKXhNbR.png) (https://i.imgur.com/ke4X3Ew.jpg)
I've found that if the Rekord trigger is set too light it can become unsafe, plus the trigger mechanism can even "lock up" and prevent the gun from cocking until the trigger lever interference is removed. What happens is the part #50a (lever 2) rotated too far past part #52a with recoil and jams up the normal alignment. The solution is to realign the two parts in the "observation window" and readjust the trigger for a proper trigger pull.
Trigger pull adjustment is a rather personal adjustment but while the Rekord trigger is a fine "sporter trigger", it really isn't a "match class trigger". For example, my brother didn't like the "1st stage takeup slack" so he bent the "1st stage stop tab" to remove all "slack" and basically turned his two stage Rekord into a one stage Rekord. This is a very risky adjustment because a tad too much "tab bend" reduces the sear engagement to a "risky edge" regardless of the trigger pull weight setting. Actually all three adjustments "small lawyer screw, larger trigger adjustment screw and the 1st stage tab" all work together and adjusting one screw can affect the setting of the other screw.
How I adjust my Rekord triggers:
1. I don't like a "knife edge trigger break" preferring to have a tiny amount of creep just before the 2nd stage sear trips. Matter of fact, this "creep" is so minimal that it's only noticeable with a "proper" trigger squeeze. Slap the trigger and it's not noticeable. To adjust the sear engagement I adjust the smaller "torx lawyer screw" till I get the "good for me" amount of creep. I don't mess with the 1st stage tab because I want to feel the 1st stage takeup.
2. To adjust the larger second stage screw I hold the cocked gun vertical (in a safe area) and loosen the larger screw till the trigger blade falls to a stop of it's own weight. Then I tighten the the 2nd stage adjustment screw till the trigger blade rises vertically to a stop, then the adjustment screw is tightened one more full turn and all is set and this gives me a usable yet safe trigger pull.
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Ed. Wow thanks thats perfect. Actually I find the trigger fine with the take-up and the creep. The only thing I would like, really not necessary, is to lighten the pull weight just a bit. I dont know what the stock setting is I never touched it nor have I measured it yet. I'm not looking for a comp trigger just a bit lighter. Do you think I can just adjust the large screw out just a bit to lighten it up without messing with the "forbidden" screw? I don't want to get to involve here nor do I want to get to the point where everything is out of wack.
thanks
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Ed. Wow thanks thats perfect. Actually I find the trigger fine with the take-up and the creep. The only thing I would like, really not necessary, is to lighten the pull weight just a bit. I dont know what the stock setting is I never touched it nor have I measured it yet. I'm not looking for a comp trigger just a bit lighter. Do you think I can just adjust the large screw out just a bit to lighten it up without messing with the "forbidden" screw? I don't want to get to involve here nor do I want to get to the point where everything is out of wack.
thanks
"Do you think I can just adjust the large screw out just a bit to lighten it up without messing with the "forbidden" screw?"
Yep, because all myHW springers came from the box with "lawyer proof triggers" set at the factory. With the HW77k I bought a couple decades ago, straight from the box the Rekord trigger pull and creep was as long and the pull was like "draggin' a nail on concrete".
If you use the trigger adjustment procedure I mentioned the trigger pull will most likely be suitable and after pulling the blade through the 1st stage the trigger blade will return to the initial spring loaded start. If the trigger pull is adjusted too light (even before being "jammed up" with recoil) the trigger blade will simply flop around after pulling through the 1st stage, without tripping the second stage, without the spring assisted trigger blade return to the start position.
The reason my brother removed all 1st stage travel from his Beeman R9 was an episode when trying to shoot a crow overhead at a steep angle in a tree. He took aim at the crow and pulled the trigger blade through the 1st stage. Well, the crow hopped to another limb and when he started to squeeze the trigger again he tripped the 2nd stage sear and the shot went off before he was ready and he missed the crow. He didn't realize that the trigger blade didn't return to the 1st stage start position with his light trigger pull and actually tripped the 2nd stage thinking he was taking up "1st stage slack". His solution was to remove the "1st stage slack" rather than making the trigger pull a bit heavier. As mentioned previously, I like to have some 1st stage slack so when I get to the 2nd stage I know that just a tad more trigger blade pressure will trip the sear. Some folk like the trigger to be a surprise when it "lets loose" however I personally need to know exactly when the sear will trip.
Bottom line, as long as the trigger blade resets to the start position without tripping the 2nd stage sear you won't have any issues with trigger malfunctioning dur to springer recoil.
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Thanks again. It may be above or in another thread but I was told the large adjustment screw has a tendency to gaul. If this is the case I won't adjust the trigger at all. The trigger weight is a bit more than I would like but not enough to take the chance on destroying the screw.
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You cross posted, things will get confusing that way. ;)
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Yes I know. I stated that above, I think. Anyway at the beginning I wasn't getting much response here. I found the European forum and though I would get more of a response there. I wasn't trying to disc anyone just hoping I would get more responses there since at the time, although I did get a response from Hooser Daddy that was it. Admittedly he wasn't sure about the adjustments.
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Thanks again. It may be above or in another thread but I was told the large adjustment screw has a tendency to gaul. If this is the case I won't adjust the trigger at all. The trigger weight is a bit more than I would like but not enough to take the chance on destroying the screw.
"I was told the large adjustment screw has a tendency to gaul"
"Excess" trigger adjusting can indeed "mess up" the larger Rekord aluminum adjusting screw. The steel tab holding the screw is deformed at the HW factory so the deformed hole will interfere with the aluminum adjustment screw threads. This "binding" keeps the adjusting screw from backing out with the springer recoil/vibration............
(https://i.imgur.com/Hc5iEOp.jpg)
Repeated "excessive" adjusting of the aluminum screw causes the deformed steel tab to "swage away" the interference with the bent tab so the adjusting screw can become loose and the trigger adjustment can change with use. LOL, guess how I know that? :) I use the word "excessive" because normal infrequent adjusting doesn't cause this but my "excessive adjusting" did. To solve my "adjusting screw loosening issue" I cross drill and tap my adjustment screws for a #6-32 nylon screw cut flush with the outside of the adjusting screw threads like this..........
(https://i.imgur.com/qUnA2gr.jpg)
The nylon screw is located on the aluminum screw so the nylon is compressed by the "factory deformed tab" after adjusting. The "locking quality" of the insert even allows a couple turns of adjustment when correctly positioned. LOL, using the "locking insert idea" I've even made a few custom brass and steel trigger pull adjusting screws like this..........
(https://i.imgur.com/bAKf8VM.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/V9dQbFs.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/5kwsIKZ.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/LyWZlxx.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ZxNvMRb.jpg?1)
Anywhoo, I really don't think occasional "trigger pull adjustments" will create issues, it's only folks like myself who excessively adjusted the aluminum screw who have issues. I do have to give a warning against sloppy use of thread locker on the threads. If the stuff gets into the "trigger frammis" it can cause the need to disassemble and clean out the trigger group, LOL, guess how I know this? Perhaps careful use of a non-hardening thread locker like Vibratite VC-3 would be useful for retaining the Rekord adjustment screw that had loosened up from "excessive adjusting"............
(https://i.imgur.com/6fL3GHQ.png)
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Now that is very cool. The more I read the more I am inclined to leave the darn thing alone for awhile and shoot it. At max under normal conditions I'll only be shooting 30 yards or so. I will see if I can get used to it. I will measure the pull weight and let ya know what it is. Actually for hunting and plinking it should be fine. I really dont want to screw this thing up. Pun intended. LOL