Question for Hector:I'm going to use the Medina Bore Seasoning Technique to break in the 48's barrel. To start, there's the sequence of shooting a quality pellet, and then pulling a dry patch through the bore, x 10.I don't have dry patches at hand, but I have .22 cal VGF felt cleaning pellets. Can they be substituted here? There's the hitch that shooting just a lightweight cleaning pellet results in basically a dry fire situation, where the piston slams uncontrollably into the receiver front wall. So, it is necessary to shoot the felt pellets with an accompanying lead pellet, to give proper resistance to the piston.So, if I were to use the felt pellets as substitutes, would it compromise the seasoning procedure?
Ilimakko;Some things are important, some are not.That "DIY" peep was the alternative to the Williams FP that some shooters ordered with their 0.20" cal 430 Stutzen. So, is it DIY? Up to a point, yes, LOL!If your sight is concave on the bottom, it should still sit FLAT in a flat surface. The sight rail is a flat surface. If you are bothered by that coat the sight base and the rail with beeswax, rub off as much as you can, put some THICK paste (body filler compound, or similar) in between clamp in place and let it dry. You will trim and polish the interfase later.Personally, I don't see the need of a filler. These sights have worked well in several DIANA's (48's among them). They are sleek adjustable, effective and accurate.You need to drill and tap a SECOND 3 mm's screw (which BTW is the screw size that holds the sight in its original place) and use BOTH. Yes, you will need shorter screws and you will need to be careful when drilling and tapping the rail because you really do NOT want to go through to the mechanisms cavity.The base and screw distances has not changed in over 80 years.The upper part has changed with the times, and the newer ones do not use a "blade" that can be replaced. They use a molded part that CAN be drilled and tapped for a plate. Make a plate with oblong holes, so that you can slip it up and down a little.Use steel and use the flattest black paint you can get.2.1-3 mm's rear hole is good enough for precision work and big enough for low light shooting. Start small and open up until it works for YOU.The DIANAs kick, no doubt about it, BUT the small, light rear sight presents a small enough inertia that, as long as you use the two screws and use some locking compound, you will be good.The alternative, and not the full FP model is the WGRS sight:https://shop.williamsgunsight.com/ecommerce/p/wgrssavage-54-001481 In GENERAL, vintage peeps designed for match guns will die a fast and painful death in a 48.HTH and let me know if I can be of further assistance.HM
I've got a D48 and accidentally bent the cocking link. Was able to order a new one from Pyramyd Air for about $15. It makes sense that you'd want an inexpensive part to be the weakest link. After that one time bending the link I'm just a little more careful (don't get in a rush!) closing up the side-lever. Haven't had any more problems. It is remarkable the power this model generates for the amount of cocking effort. Less effort than a break barrel of similar power.If you ever have accuracy issues or start to hear/feel vibration the first thing I'd check is that the barrel shroud is secure. It's a thin shroud that just makes the barrel look a tiny bit thicker. Barrel underneath the shroud is blued. Also remember about the shroud if you ever want to add a muzzle brake. You might have to remove the shroud and attach the brake to the actual barrel.
Hi Hector,I've alway been intrigued by the WRS 54 peeps but never understood what keeps them them from sliding on the dovetail. I'm considering trying them on one of my Weihrauchs because it looks like a nice simple clean design and should be able to be mounted further back than my current FP-AGs . I know it's a file fit but how do you secure it to the dovetail?Thank you very much for your help Ron