GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: woogie_man on May 03, 2021, 09:52:48 PM
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Was out shooting my Red Wolf and had the muzzle adapter and Huggett launch off of the gun. When looking at things I see that the muzzle adapter came out of the carbon shroud with all the epoxy on the muzzle adapter. Now I am stuck trying to fix a high cost rifle with epoxy I have at my house. I am hoping that the epoxy that I used, the same one I use for my gliders, will hold and not cause any issues. But what would you guys use, or do?
Does anyone happen to know what type of epoxy Daystate uses on their shrouds?
I really feel that for the price of this rifle, this shouldn't be an issue! And then trying to get ahold of Daystate has been an absolute nightmare. I really do like their rifles, but I just can't comprehend them keeping a company going with these business practice.
Has anyone ran into this issue on guns before?
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It sounds like either the prep work before epoxy at factory was flawed or solvents after the fact weakened them, I vote the first, and go with the glider glue applied properly.
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Use 3M 5200 Marine Sealant, as long as it's something you never need to get apart again
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I have learned epoxy well..
Totally rebuilding a 1969 mako boat. stringers,floor, hull... ALL.
Clean everything with acetone to remove any oil, even oil from your hands. Its said the worse thing you can do in fiberglassing is rub your bare hand across to check for imperfections then add a layer, which I do and most do...
Heat is your friend with epoxy. to cure anything under 130 degrees, doesn't need to be that hot. just saying most epoxies stall and can fail to cure properly at under 70 degrees F. 65F is bare min..
epoxy likes a mildly sanded surface to bond. and epoxy off gasses for up to 72 hrs. something called amine blush is a greasy/oily film that is sometimes a product of curing especially in cooler or humid conditions. if you get amine blush, plain dawn soap removes that prior to a second coat. oil and water are off limits with epoxy,,. If I hadn't mentioned that.
you can thicken epoxy to keep from running with fumed silica but thats getting deep and sawdust can be used(but that changes your clear smooth finish)
That was long winded, epoxy is a learning curve. I have easy 15 gallons.
Also a taped barrier if you want to insure it doesn't run. or to keep it contained, cause it can crawl and level out. electrical or plastic shipping tape or plastic bag taped. paper tape or masking tape will be a negative.. as wood product epoxy will seep in and concrete paper tape almost permentnately.(duh huh) ask me how I know that.. lol
theres you an "entry" to epoxy. hope something was useful. happy to help. if you have further ?'s
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Awesome write up Honda.
Glued up with thr epoxy and some micro balloons to add some extra grip. Here is hoping things hold tight.
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I really feel that for the price of this rifle, this shouldn't be an issue! And then trying to get ahold of Daystate has been an absolute nightmare. I really do like their rifles, but I just can't comprehend them keeping a company going with these business practice.
Has anyone ran into this issue on guns before?
I sent an email to Daystate one time in reference to a problem and it was forwarded to AOA. Then they contacted me with a price for the parts.
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They shouldn't charge you for parts, when it was a manufacturing issue.
Can't say I will be buying another daystate if thats the case. I know talking to guys in the UK, they have the same issues with daystate
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Awesome write up Honda.
Glued up with thr epoxy and some micro balloons to add some extra grip. Here is hoping things hold tight.
10/4... I didn't know your knowledge of epoxy. just threw a general long winded spill containing several parameters in its use.
If you are using micro balloons you are most likely already fairly familiar.
I have not used micro balloons in my applications. and I have mixed feelings on fumed silica. seems to almost make epoxy brittle if you don't add a structural filler or binder like millings or chopped strands.
I tend to test strength of epoxy if I alter it with additives, I make mock up small batches and test flexibility and strength, before I attempt a critical application.
Epoxy is a great product if one is willing to work with its quirks. (time, effort, tools, additives and clean up)
I figure your repair will do fine.
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Another thing I learned in 20 years of building and custom building large r/c aircraft is that you get a better, stronger bond with a slower curing epoxy than a fast dry. Most fast dry epoxies, even when well mixed tend to dry more rubbery than a slower curing epoxy, not a good combination under high load surfaces.
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I remember taking slow cure epoxy thinning it with alcohol and coating the wings of them giant foam gliders and adding a cox engine and prop to it, was an amazing maiden voyage free flight, but the landing was a bit rough in +10 degree weather, never tried it again, as of yet :)