Will a flat washer under the bolt help those of use who have guns that Mac1's cups don't fit?
Isnt there a song that covers this topic?
Those star washers are bad for your stock. That is the fist thing I remove on a D-34. I was shown a trick where you remove the star washer, put super glue on the wood, let it dry and replace with a flat washer & locktite the screw.
Quote from: Booger on July 30, 2014, 07:28:04 PMThose star washers are bad for your stock. That is the fist thing I remove on a D-34. I was shown a trick where you remove the star washer, put super glue on the wood, let it dry and replace with a flat washer & locktite the screw.Indeed the wood underneath is pretty damaged.... can you please explain the super glue fixing procedure a bit?Thanks
These work well on RWS rifles...http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/mac1-forearm-cup-kit-p/mcupkit.htm
I just can't keep the 2 screws at the front of the stock of my D34 tightened.... I have even tried putting some lockit on the metal piece of the body that they screw into, but didn't work.
Quote from: Alex70 on July 30, 2014, 05:40:13 PMI just can't keep the 2 screws at the front of the stock of my D34 tightened.... I have even tried putting some lockit on the metal piece of the body that they screw into, but didn't work. Wow many great tricks in this thread already! But for the record here's what I like to do:1. Prepare the stock by lightly sanding the inletting; usually the grain is slightly raised which keeps the action from fully contacting the wood. Check for other anomalies while you're there (I once had a gun with a varnish run across the fore end inletting on one side, acted as a fulcrum for the receiver tube, and kept all the screws loose until it was removed).2. Ditch the star washer for a flat washer. The actual contact area between metal and wood is much greater, so less tendency to crush the wood (and I always add a washer to guns that don't have one, you never want the screw head twisting directly into the wood).3. Use a split washer on top of the flat washer. I do like to keep some tension on the screw.4. Of course clean the threads on the screws, and where they seat, and use the lightest Loc-Tite.5. Final trick--put a little lube under the screw head. It's much easier to gauge how much tension is on the threads if you aren't dealing with a lot of friction here, and it also acts as a "bond break" to keep the gun's firing movement from translating into rotation of the screw. I like old-fashioned lithium grease for this, clean and fairly "dry" to use.