There is a wealth of information on this forum regarding various tune kits as well as many Youtube videos with people walking through the process. I've digested as much of that as I could find. I'm posting to ask for some very specific advice on installing an ARH kit.I have not felt a great need to 'tune' my 3 month old HW95. In fact I wanted to put off doing anything internally until I had a good reason to open the rifle up. I've been happy with the OEM setup. I have shot 1500+ pellets through it so far and have seen first hand how it smooths out over time. The initial twang and shot cycle was never bad by my standards but it has settled down quite nicely by now. Recently I have noticed a couple of things that I wanted to check out "just in case". I intend to disassemble the rifle to inspect, deburr, degrease, piston polish, and re-lube with Krytox 205 (I already had a bunch of the stuff from another project). I have an ARH kit with a new piston seal and as long as I've got the rifle opened up, I will be installing those components. But, I have a few questions for the veterans here who have worked with ARH stuff.1) I understand that there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring. Should I keep that in there even with the ARH top-hat? I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now. I suppose the right answer is to try it one way and change it if its not what I want. 2) By default, I intend to lube every moving surface in the rifle (lightly with Krytox) except for the face of the piston seal of course. So, spring guides (every surface), outside of the spring including the ends, the sides of the piston seal, the back 1/3 of the piston itself, any preload washer, cocking shoe, etc. Just a very light coat (less is more?). I do not intend to use any tar as I just don't like the idea of black gunk all over everything and performance over temperature is a concern for me here in Wisconsin. Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed? Any advice on how much to apply?Any input is much appreciated.Tony
... This is the shot sound with the ARH install.
Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm grateful for your advice! I now have a clearer idea of what I'm going to be doing.I'm hoping to get to it this weekend, but I'm not in any hurry. I'll post a follow-up and let you know how it went, what issues I found along the way, and what kind of results I'm getting. TonyPlease take/post pics of your install as I sure wish I had done that. I would really like to see your old Weihrauch seal. Thanks
Going the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Ed’s tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes. My advice, completely tear down the action and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly. Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!
Quote from: tjk on May 12, 2021, 10:28:48 AMGoing the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Ed’s tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes. My advice, completely tear down the action and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly. Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!Hey, if I shot 3,000-5,000 pellets a month I would be boastful too... -Y
Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.
Quote from: nced on May 12, 2021, 01:57:02 PMAnywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.Heck no Ed! For my part, I enjoy reading your reposted replies since I'm a relative newcomer. Its all new to me.Tony
Quote from: Yogi on May 12, 2021, 11:51:55 AMQuote from: tjk on May 12, 2021, 10:28:48 AMGoing the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Ed’s tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes. My advice, completely tear down the action and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly. Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!Hey, if I shot 3,000-5,000 pellets a month I would be boastful too... -YLOL........., that would be more like 1,000 pellets per month a decade ago when I was living in West Virginia shooting with my brother. For the last few years I'd be lucky to shoot 200 pellets a month, however when the new Vortek spring arrives I'm intending to shoot perhaps 500 shots per month checking it out. Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.