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Author Topic: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice  (Read 619 times))

Offline tdupont83

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HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« on: May 11, 2021, 11:23:56 AM »
There is a wealth of information on this forum regarding various tune kits as well as many Youtube videos with people walking through the process.   I've digested as much of that as I could find.  I'm posting to ask for some very specific advice on installing an ARH kit.

I have not felt a great need to 'tune' my 3 month old HW95.  In fact I wanted to put off doing anything internally until I had a good reason to open the rifle up.  I've been happy with the OEM setup.   I have shot 1500+ pellets through it so far and have seen first hand how it smooths out over time.   The initial twang and shot cycle was never bad by my standards but it has settled down quite nicely by now.  Recently I have noticed a couple of things that I wanted to check out "just in case".  I intend to disassemble the rifle to inspect, deburr, degrease, piston polish, and re-lube with Krytox 205 (I already had a bunch of the stuff from another project).   I have an ARH kit with a new piston seal and as long as I've got the rifle opened up, I will be installing those components.  But, I have a few questions for the veterans here who have worked with ARH stuff.

1) I understand that there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring.  Should I keep that in there even with the ARH top-hat?  I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now.  I suppose the right answer is to try it one way and change it if its not what I want.

2) By default, I intend to lube every moving surface in the rifle (lightly with Krytox) except for the face of the piston seal of course.  So, spring guides (every surface), outside of the spring including the ends, the sides of the piston seal, the back 1/3 of the piston itself, any preload washer, cocking shoe, etc.  Just a very light coat (less is more?).  I do not intend to use any tar as I just don't like the idea of black gunk all over everything and performance over temperature is a concern for me here in Wisconsin.   Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed?  Any advice on how much to apply?

Any input is much appreciated.

Tony
  • Appleton, WI

Offline SpiralGroove

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2021, 11:30:37 AM »
There is a wealth of information on this forum regarding various tune kits as well as many Youtube videos with people walking through the process.   I've digested as much of that as I could find.  I'm posting to ask for some very specific advice on installing an ARH kit.

I have not felt a great need to 'tune' my 3 month old HW95.  In fact I wanted to put off doing anything internally until I had a good reason to open the rifle up.  I've been happy with the OEM setup.   I have shot 1500+ pellets through it so far and have seen first hand how it smooths out over time.   The initial twang and shot cycle was never bad by my standards but it has settled down quite nicely by now.  Recently I have noticed a couple of things that I wanted to check out "just in case".  I intend to disassemble the rifle to inspect, deburr, degrease, piston polish, and re-lube with Krytox 205 (I already had a bunch of the stuff from another project).   I have an ARH kit with a new piston seal and as long as I've got the rifle opened up, I will be installing those components.  But, I have a few questions for the veterans here who have worked with ARH stuff.

1) I understand that there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring.  Should I keep that in there even with the ARH top-hat?  I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now.  I suppose the right answer is to try it one way and change it if its not what I want.

2) By default, I intend to lube every moving surface in the rifle (lightly with Krytox) except for the face of the piston seal of course.  So, spring guides (every surface), outside of the spring including the ends, the sides of the piston seal, the back 1/3 of the piston itself, any preload washer, cocking shoe, etc.  Just a very light coat (less is more?).  I do not intend to use any tar as I just don't like the idea of black gunk all over everything and performance over temperature is a concern for me here in Wisconsin.   Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed?  Any advice on how much to apply?

Any input is much appreciated.
Tony
- There shouldn't be a washer directly behind the piston tip.  If there is - replace with top-hat.
- I've never used Krytox, but keep it off the piston seal face, Transfer Port and barrel.  Use on trigger too.
  • Bothell, WA
PCP's:
BSA R10 (.177) Regulated
AR2079A-HPA (.177)
AR2079A-HPA (.22)
QB79-HPA (.22)
RAW HM1000x LRT Camo - (.22)

Pumper's:
1973 Benjamin Franklin 342
1984 Benjamin Franklin 347

Springer's:
Beeman R9   (.20) - Circa 2019
Beeman R10 (.20) - Circa 1988
HW30S (.177)
HW35E (2) (.177)
HW35E (.177) Nickel
HW50S (.177)
HW50S Nickel (.177)
HW80 (.20)
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Offline nced

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2021, 12:48:25 PM »
There is a wealth of information on this forum regarding various tune kits as well as many Youtube videos with people walking through the process.   I've digested as much of that as I could find.  I'm posting to ask for some very specific advice on installing an ARH kit.

I have not felt a great need to 'tune' my 3 month old HW95.  In fact I wanted to put off doing anything internally until I had a good reason to open the rifle up.  I've been happy with the OEM setup.   I have shot 1500+ pellets through it so far and have seen first hand how it smooths out over time.   The initial twang and shot cycle was never bad by my standards but it has settled down quite nicely by now.  Recently I have noticed a couple of things that I wanted to check out "just in case".  I intend to disassemble the rifle to inspect, deburr, degrease, piston polish, and re-lube with Krytox 205 (I already had a bunch of the stuff from another project).   I have an ARH kit with a new piston seal and as long as I've got the rifle opened up, I will be installing those components.  But, I have a few questions for the veterans here who have worked with ARH stuff.

1) I understand that there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring.  Should I keep that in there even with the ARH top-hat?  I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now.  I suppose the right answer is to try it one way and change it if its not what I want.

2) By default, I intend to lube every moving surface in the rifle (lightly with Krytox) except for the face of the piston seal of course.  So, spring guides (every surface), outside of the spring including the ends, the sides of the piston seal, the back 1/3 of the piston itself, any preload washer, cocking shoe, etc.  Just a very light coat (less is more?).  I do not intend to use any tar as I just don't like the idea of black gunk all over everything and performance over temperature is a concern for me here in Wisconsin.   Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed?  Any advice on how much to apply?

Any input is much appreciated.

Tony
There is a wealth of information on this forum regarding various tune kits as well as many Youtube videos with people walking through the process.   I've digested as much of that as I could find.  I'm posting to ask for some very specific advice on installing an ARH kit.

I have not felt a great need to 'tune' my 3 month old HW95.  In fact I wanted to put off doing anything internally until I had a good reason to open the rifle up.  I've been happy with the OEM setup.   I have shot 1500+ pellets through it so far and have seen first hand how it smooths out over time.   The initial twang and shot cycle was never bad by my standards but it has settled down quite nicely by now.  Recently I have noticed a couple of things that I wanted to check out "just in case".  I intend to disassemble the rifle to inspect, deburr, degrease, piston polish, and re-lube with Krytox 205 (I already had a bunch of the stuff from another project).   I have an ARH kit with a new piston seal and as long as I've got the rifle opened up, I will be installing those components.  But, I have a few questions for the veterans here who have worked with ARH stuff.

1) I understand that there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring.  Should I keep that in there even with the ARH top-hat?  I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now.  I suppose the right answer is to try it one way and change it if its not what I want.

2) By default, I intend to lube every moving surface in the rifle (lightly with Krytox) except for the face of the piston seal of course.  So, spring guides (every surface), outside of the spring including the ends, the sides of the piston seal, the back 1/3 of the piston itself, any preload washer, cocking shoe, etc.  Just a very light coat (less is more?).  I do not intend to use any tar as I just don't like the idea of black gunk all over everything and performance over temperature is a concern for me here in Wisconsin.   Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed?  Any advice on how much to apply?

Any input is much appreciated.

Tony

"there is probably an OEM preload washer at the piston end of the spring."
I believe that the flat washer is simply to provide a sort of "thrust washer" to assist the twisting between the spring end and the inside face of the piston. The older HW break barrels I bought didn't have this washer but my HW95 did. This washer was so thin that I doubt it would make much difference if it was left in place but the spring kit top hat is all that is needed..........


"I want to maintain a similar power level to what I have now"
I haven't bought a "full Maccari kit" since I owned a R10 decades ago so I really don't know which kit would be similar to factory.

"Besides the piston seal face, is there any surface that should not get lubed?"
When testing Krytox the very first time in my Beeman R9 years ago the internals were liberally coated and I deliberately let some get on the face of the piston seal. The reason was that I was testing the non-dieseling claims and even though the lubing was more generous than I would ever attempt with diesel prone "molly paste" there was no dieseling. When I was using "dinosaur oil based grease" like "molly paste" I had to be extremely careful that NONE got in front of the piston seal, and if excess lube was applied the lube would be "pumped" past the piston seal when shooting to diesel.

Moderate use of Krytox is the best practice, however lubing with it isn't nearly as tedious as the "petro based grease". It is recommended to strip the internal components of all "petro lubes" with non-chlorinated brake cleaner (LOL....obviously not the piston seal) and wiping dry prior to applying Krytox. Here is the Dupont recommended procedure for lubing bearings with Krytox...........

IMHO, some go to extremes with the above advice by applying it to "springer internals". LOL,,,,,,springers aren't high speed bearings!

Here are a couple pics of the Krytox GPL205 in/on my .177 HW95..........
   

  • USA, North Carolina, Rougemont

Offline Deerstalker

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2021, 02:04:39 PM »
I just installed an ARH kit plus ARH piston seal, (dark green), in my 9 month old HW95L .22.  I left the thin metal washer inside the piston like nced said and used the ARH top hat, guide & spring.  My old seal was burned and my FPS had dropped about 50 points from my initial check, POI was also poor.  This is my old seal.

This is the chrono data from today after about 500 shots on the ARH kit.
Created: 05/11/21 10:53 AM
Description:
Notes 1:
Notes 2:
Distance to Chrono(FT): 4.00
Ballistic Coefficient: 0.021
Bullet Weight(gr): 14.66
Temp: 60 F Partly cloudy
BP: 1020.46 inHg
Altitude: 495.00
#          FPS  FT-LBS      PF
10        707    16.27      10.36 
9          709    16.37      10.39 
8          709    16.37      10.39 
7          712    16.50      10.44 
6          707    16.27      10.36 
5          708    16.32      10.38 
4          710    16.41      10.41 
3          712    16.50      10.44 
2          710    16.41      10.41 
1          718    16.78      10.53 
Average: 710.2 FPS
SD: 3.3 FPS
Min: 707 FPS
Max: 718 FPS
Spread: 11 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.0
True MV: 721 FPS
Group Size (in): 0.00

I used the grease supplied by ARH with the kit and so far I the results have been great as much as I can tell.  This is the shot sound with the ARH install.
  • USA, North Carolina, Cary
HW95L .22  "Crazy Accurate"
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Offline Bayman

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2021, 03:16:31 PM »
The thin washer on top of the spring is to uniformly spread the spring pressure and retain the the metal piston sleeve.. The metal piston sleeve has folded over ears that wouldn't create a smooth surface for the spring ride on. The washer is added as sort of a retaining bearing surface for the spring. It's not needed if you do away with the factory style piston sleeve and use a top hat.
  • USA,  NY
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Offline tdupont83

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2021, 05:25:44 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys!  I'm grateful for your advice!   
I now have a clearer idea of what I'm going to be doing.

I'm hoping to get to it this weekend, but I'm not in any hurry. 
I'll post a follow-up and let you know how it went, what issues I found along the way, and what kind of results I'm getting.

Tony
  • Appleton, WI

Offline tdupont83

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2021, 05:28:12 PM »
  ... This is the shot sound with the ARH install.


That is a sweet sounding shot!  Compared to that, mine currently has a bit of a "boing" in it.
I'm going to have to do a "before" and "after" recording to have a record of change.
  • Appleton, WI

Offline Yogi

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2021, 05:39:15 PM »
FWIW-You can lightly grease the inside of the spring as well.

-Y
  • San Francisco, CA
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Offline Deerstalker

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2021, 05:44:19 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys!  I'm grateful for your advice!   
I now have a clearer idea of what I'm going to be doing.

I'm hoping to get to it this weekend, but I'm not in any hurry. 
I'll post a follow-up and let you know how it went, what issues I found along the way, and what kind of results I'm getting.

Tony

Please take/post pics of your install as I sure wish I had done that.  I would really like to see your old Weihrauch seal.  Thanks
  • USA, North Carolina, Cary
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Offline tjk

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2021, 10:28:48 AM »
Going the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Eds tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes.
My advice, completely tear down the action  and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly.  Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve  and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!
  • South Carolina.
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Offline Yogi

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2021, 11:51:55 AM »
Going the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Eds tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes.
My advice, completely tear down the action  and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly.  Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve  and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!

Hey, if I shot 3,000-5,000 pellets a month I would be boastful too... ;D

-Y
  • San Francisco, CA
Hatsan 95 Vortex, .22
RWS 6G, .177
RWS LP8 Magnum, .177
Diana 340 N-Tec, .22 Compact Lexus
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Offline nced

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2021, 01:57:02 PM »
Going the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Eds tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes.
My advice, completely tear down the action  and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly.  Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve  and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!

Hey, if I shot 3,000-5,000 pellets a month I would be boastful too... ;D

-Y
LOL........., that would be more like 1,000 pellets per month a decade ago when I was living in West Virginia shooting with my brother. For the last few years I'd be lucky to shoot 200 pellets a month, however when the new Vortek spring arrives I'm intending to shoot perhaps 500 shots per month checking it out.

Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.
  • USA, North Carolina, Rougemont

Offline SpiralGroove

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2021, 02:04:03 PM »
Hey Guys,
Let's not alienate our knowledgeable older members - Ed's posts (w/pics) continue to show newer member the workings of HW rifles and how to fix them.

However, we've had a few members full of complete BS - let's jump on those folks as they appear ;).

I think a few members need to have their Testosterone levels checked - They assuredly are elevated :D.
  • Bothell, WA
PCP's:
BSA R10 (.177) Regulated
AR2079A-HPA (.177)
AR2079A-HPA (.22)
QB79-HPA (.22)
RAW HM1000x LRT Camo - (.22)

Pumper's:
1973 Benjamin Franklin 342
1984 Benjamin Franklin 347

Springer's:
Beeman R9   (.20) - Circa 2019
Beeman R10 (.20) - Circa 1988
HW30S (.177)
HW35E (2) (.177)
HW35E (.177) Nickel
HW50S (.177)
HW50S Nickel (.177)
HW80 (.20)
HW95 Hybrid (.177)

Offline tdupont83

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2021, 03:44:58 PM »
Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.

Heck no Ed!  For my part, I enjoy reading your reposted replies since I'm a relative newcomer.  Its all new to me.

Tony
  • Appleton, WI

Offline jccams

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2021, 03:56:23 PM »
Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.

Heck no Ed!  For my part, I enjoy reading your reposted replies since I'm a relative newcomer.  Its all new to me.

Tony

This x2^
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Offline SwampHunter

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2021, 05:38:35 PM »
Going the Krytox route?!? Cool!!! I take a lot of stock Eds tuning philosophy. Yes his posts do seem repetitive and boastful,....especially his longe range groups 😉, but the more you read into it the more sense it makes.
My advice, completely tear down the action  and clean everything real well as suggested with the non chlorine brake cleaner. I would remove the OEM thrush washer in the piston as well as the inner sleeve and clean them thoroughly.  Since krytox isnt a flamable lubricant, i wouldnt hesitate to apply a thin coat to every component including the sleeve and thrush washer and reinstall the sleeve  and washer before installing the th/spring. The sleeved groove running the length of the piston acts as a lubricant reservoir that keeps the cocking shoe lubricated. JM kits usually leave a bit of room for spacing so as Ed stated, the washer really isnt a big issue, but it will add another surface for the tophat and spring to move/spin freely. A dab on the piston stem before adding the top hat too. Any surface that moves or contacts each other should get a light coating. Just go easy with the Krytox. As with most lubricants, a little goes a long way. Good luck and look forward to your pre and post tune experience!

Hey, if I shot 3,000-5,000 pellets a month I would be boastful too... ;D

-Y
LOL........., that would be more like 1,000 pellets per month a decade ago when I was living in West Virginia shooting with my brother. For the last few years I'd be lucky to shoot 200 pellets a month, however when the new Vortek spring arrives I'm intending to shoot perhaps 500 shots per month checking it out.

Anywhoo, obviously. it seema that some are annoyed by my repeating "feats of the past" so I'll be backing off on reposting my replies from the past.
On the contrary, your posts have made me want to get into springers again, I gave up after a few cheap ones and went to pcp. I like the pcp guns but Some days i just want to grab a rifle, some pellets and shoot. Now if i can just find a good one i can slip past my accountant!!#  ;D ;D
  • USA, FL

Offline Mrblonde40

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #16 on: May 12, 2021, 06:37:23 PM »
It was one of Ed's "repetitive" posts that showed me the chisel detent latch could be removed, cleaned, and lubricated.  Which made a world of difference on my gun.  I guess here would be a good place to thank him for that.  Thank you Ed.
  • Chesaning, Michigan, USA

Offline Denby95

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2021, 05:10:47 PM »
No complaint of Ed's posts here either, I've gained alot of information from them and the great photos you take. Thank you.
  • USA, California

Offline tdupont83

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #18 on: May 22, 2021, 10:17:07 PM »
Mission Accomplished!!

Last night I disassembled my HW95L to see how things looked.  I had noticed a few "odd" things and since I had an ARH kit on hand, I was ready to dive in.

Attached are a few photos of what it looked like inside.   The lubrication looked about right....  none too much and none too thin.  I thought it looked like a pretty good lubrication job from the factory.  The photo of the piston seal tells the tale, though.   It was not split through, but clearly it looks like it was on its last legs.

- I degreased everything,
- polished the piston exterior with a Dremel felt wheel and polishing compound,
- deburred all the holes in the compression tube and cleaned it out,
- lubricated everything with Krytox 205 - I used a bit less than 1/2 oz of material on the whole thing,
- and finally, I reassembled with the ARH kit.  Spring, top-hat, spring guide and piston seal.  No tar either. 

All-in-all, it took me about 3 hours to complete.

When complete, I fire a couple of pellets out the patio door and boy what a difference in shot noise!  The twang was completely gone and the shot seemed really crisp.

This morning, I fired a bunch of JSB Exact 8.44 through the chrony and got an average of about 916 fps.  With the OEM setup I was getting around 885-890 fps.  So I gained some heat.  Its not what I was looking for, but the new parts have not been broken in yet either.

So I did some more shooting later today and am quite pleased with the results.   What do I notice?
1) the twang is completely gone, the shot sound is really pleasant now
2) the recoil is altered.  With OEM parts the rifle seemed to have a bit of twist in its recoil.  Now it seems to be straight back.
 
Now to put some pellets through it and break the new parts in.

Tony
« Last Edit: May 22, 2021, 10:48:45 PM by tdupont83 »
  • Appleton, WI

Offline Deerstalker

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Re: HW95 - ARH Kit Advice
« Reply #19 on: May 22, 2021, 11:07:34 PM »
Weihrauch may have a large problem with the HW9xx rifles as these failures are after less than 2.5K shots where the OEM piston seal are severally damaged.  This is with factory rifles that have NOT been modified.  Maybe they have changed some process at the factory.

I did almost the exact thing you did BUT I put in a Vortek seal with the ARH kit, (top hat, spring & guide).  I used GPL-205 after a through cleaning and polishing of the piston and cocking shoe.  My OEM seal looks identical to yours and this is my shot cycle after the tune.  The POI is back with good groups for my HW95L .22.




Chrono data after tune.
Created: 05/21/21 09:20 AM
Description:
Notes 1: HW95L with Vortek Seal & ARH kit
Notes 2: Sunny Morning
Distance to Chrono(FT): 4.00
Ballistic Coefficient: 0.021
Bullet Weight(gr): 14.66 H&N FTT
Temp: 66 F
BP: 1032.46 inHg
Altitude: 495.00
#   FPS   FT-LBS   PF
15   712   16.50   10.44 
14   713   16.55   10.45 
13   710   16.41   10.41 
12   714   16.60   10.47 
11   715   16.64   10.48 
10   714   16.60   10.47 
9    ERROR 2
8   712   16.50   10.44 
7   709   16.37   10.39 
6   713   16.55   10.45 
5   717   16.74   10.51 
4    718   16.78   10.53 
3   712   16.50   10.44 
2   711   16.46   10.42 
1   709   16.37   10.39 
Average: 712.8 FPS
SD: 2.7 FPS
Min: 709 FPS
Max: 718 FPS
Spread: 9 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.0
True MV: 724 FPS
« Last Edit: May 22, 2021, 11:51:54 PM by Deerstalker »
  • USA, North Carolina, Cary
HW95L .22  "Crazy Accurate"
AIRMAX 30, SF, IR, COMPACT 4-16 x 44 mm

Semper Fi