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modify rekord trigger

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Tom1340:
I want to lighten the 2nd stage pull weight on my r9 trigger.  The lightest stable setting I can achieve with the adjustment screws is heavy enough that it wears me out after 15 or 20 shots, and my shooting suffers.  I believe that by moving the 2nd stage “bump” on the trigger blade forward a little bit (marginally closer to the 1st stage bump), I could lighten the pull while still maintaining a good spring pressure and safe sear engagement.  Has anyone done this?  Are there any aftermarket trigger blades with this feature?  Yes, I know the r9 is not designed as a target gun, but that is what I use it for.  Thanks

Stinger177:
I have been in and out of Rekord triggers many more times than I've been alive (and I am old, trust me).

I have NEVER had a Rekord trigger tire me out, even factory adjusted. I have adjusted them to the scary point of them almost firing on their own - Don't go there!! - again, trust me.

One can do further adjustments in the first stage, but you'll have to remove the trigger block and know what you're doing.

I notice that you say "screws" (screws - plural). There is only one screw from the bottom that one has access to without removing the trigger block itself, so exactly what screw(s) have you been tweaking?

You can buy triggers for it that have a more rearward setback, reducing the LOP (length of pull), and that may help you. I have never heard, or even read it suggested, to move the second stage "bump" more forward. The interaction between first and second stage should be completely adjustable to your liking with the available factory designed adjustments.

I am not near my guns right now, but I suggest you PM Ron (Bayman, here in GTA) and ask his advice.

If you need further advice, please feel free to respond, either in this thread, or by PM.

IMO, the Rekord trigger is one of the best engineered of any that I have fired.

 :D

Roadworthy:
One possible solution is going to youtube.com and doing a search on Rekord trigger adjustment.  You will learn a lot about how that trigger works.  My basic understanding is that the second stage sets the point at which the trigger fires.  The first stage controls movement up to that point.  The first stage has more leverage for an easier pull until you hit "the wall" which is where the second stage comes in.  Properly adjusted most of your pull should be pretty easy, it's only the firing where the pull gets harder.  Dismantling and polishing the sliding surfaces will significantly improve trigger operation but whether to get involved that deeply in the trigger is best left with people with experience.  Polishing incorrectly can ruin a trigger.

Bayman:
There's three adjustments on a Rekord trigger.

The first and least known is the metal tab that hangs down frim the housing in front of the trigger blade. That's used to adjust first stage travel. Bending that tab backwards will reduce first stage travel to almost nothing. It's a good cheat to set back the triggers resting position so it's more reachable. It does nothing to change the break point. I don't recommend eliminating all first stage travel because it helps prevent bump fires on a trigger that's set too light. This tab is easiest to adjust with the trigger guard removed.

The second adjustment is the big soft aluminum screw behind the blade. This is the most used adjustment. Hence there's a hole in the trigger guard to access it. Turning the screw out reduces trigger pull weight. Turning it in obviously increases it. It's said that turning it out too far can result in the trigger not reseting. I've never experienced that, but I've had where turning it out too much causes the trigger to lose first stage return from the second stage wall. Basically if you come back to the second stage without firing the trigger blade dangles loose and doesn't spring back to the first stage position. Every rekord trigger has its own limit to how light you can get the trigger down to with this adjustment screw. Most will get down to a pound of a little less.

The third adjustment is the Torx 9 screw. It's accessible only with the trigger guard off. For good reason this screw is know as the "Forbidden Srew". This screw can get you in a lot of trouble. Trust me on this there's a pellet in my old shop ceiling and neighbors garage to prove it.

This screw adjust sear engagement. If you turn this screw in too far the trigger will not set.  Turning the screw in reduces sear engagement. This reduces trigger creep and to small degree pull weight. There's a circular window where sear engagement can be checked. Even though that window exist the trigger behaves differently under the spring pressure of a cocked rifle. A trigger that tests ok out of the rifle may fire the instant you take the safety off. Or it may bump fire in actual use when it didn't out of the gun. If you dare mess with this adjustment I recommend you make adjustments in eighth turns or less. Changes are drastic and come quickly.

I'm not going to address stoning and polishing because I don't do it unless there's a visible flaw or uneven wear. I believe there's more to be lost than gained doing this. Some people swear it makes a huge difference. Frankly I've never noticed that but that could just be me. Without polishing I get most of my rekords down to a smooth clean 8-10oz break. I've gotten a couple down to a safe 5oz. Safe as in won't bump fire.

The rekord trigger is a pretty magnificent piece of engineering if you consider the amount of pressure it has to restrain compared to the amount of pressure it takes to release it. Officially I don't recommend you mess with your triggers and I don't for others. Use this information At your own risk.

HTH
Ron

Tom1340:
Thanks all for your comments.  Ron, your notes inspired me to finally buy a trigger pull gauge.  Mine comes in at 14 oz.  This is lower than I expected, and am surprised that it sometimes tricks me into unwanted hand motion.  So I suspect my technique is part of my problem.  I'll work on this.  My pull weight screw returns the trigger from the 2nd stage wall to a fresh 1st stage position, but without room to safely reduce spring tension further.   There is room to reduce sear engagement, so I may play with the torx screw a bit more, now that I have gauge to measure results.  So far, I have not planted any pellets in my ceiling. 

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