Donation Donation
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams > Optics, Range estimation & related subjects
Reducing The G force on a scope in both directions on a Diana 54
Poor Ballistics:
Hello to all: I recently purchased a Diana 54, and as with all the sledge type systems, even harder on scopes than regular springers.
Not wanting to eat my scope, I came up with a solution somewhat different from the Diana Zero recoil mount, but accomplishing the same goal. I am probably not the first one to do something like this, so if anyone has any information about this approach to saving the scope, please let us know.
BKL makes an extruded one piece mount whose base slides onto the rails. There are no removable side plates, if it does not slide on, you have to use the supplied set of special screws to expand it. Perfect for what I wanted to accomplish.
Using the 220 grit lapping paste from my scope ring lapping kit, I lapped in the BKL mount to the rails, (if anyone is interested I could add pictures and go into details of the lapping) . Prior to lapping, I taped off everything except the rails, and after lapping and cleaning I lubed and tensioned the screws so that when fired the scope and mount moves forward 1/4 of an inch relative to the rails. There is absolutely no side or vertical play when I apply force to both ends of the scope. I could back off on the screws slightly, and the scope/mount would still have no play, but I did not want the scope/mount to be sliding back an forth to easily when moving around with the rifle.
I clamped a rail mounted level at the rear of the rail to act as a stop and the scope to be reset to after each shot. Someday I may add a spring, but for now, when I cock the rifle with some vertical angle, it slides back into position and because of the way I lapped it, there is a bit of stiction the last 1/32 of an inch that holds the scope/mount in place for bench shooting purposes. I put a stop at the front of the rail as insurance, though with the slight stiction is almost not needed. I am pretty sure that I have minimized the g forces in both directions considerably without affecting accuracy. LONG LIVE THE SCOPE !!!
Yogi:
What scope is mounted on your rig?
-Y
Poor Ballistics:
Hi Yogi,
At the moment I have a Leapers Accu Shot fixed 10 power from 2016 I had on my .30 caliber / arrow FS Independence (which is going to be put up for sale soon) I have an Arken LH-4 6-24x50 FFP | Capped Tool-less Turrets on the way. The leapers supposedly are built to withstand the two way recoil of a springer, not sure about the Arken. I just found out recently about Arken, they are worth looking into. I am getting this scope just to test the accuracy, it will be on only for a short while.
I really prefer peep sights, and will soon be mounting the front globe and rear peep from my Anschutz 250. Bless the designers of Anschutz in the 60's, the front globe is screwed on, so an easy job to drill and tap the removable aluminum barrel tuning weight designed by Hector. By the way, if anyone knows where to source the inserts for that vintage of an Anschutz front sight, please let me know.
JPSAXNC:
I thought the sledge system on the 54 was supposed the gun recoilless ?
H95Kidd:
--- Quote from: Poor Ballistics on November 17, 2024, 09:45:41 AM ---Hello to all: I recently purchased a Diana 54, and as with all the sledge type systems, even harder on scopes than regular springers.
Not wanting to eat my scope, I came up with a solution somewhat different from the Diana Zero recoil mount, but accomplishing the same goal. I am probably not the first one to do something like this, so if anyone has any information about this approach to saving the scope, please let us know.
BKL makes an extruded one piece mount whose base slides onto the rails. There are no removable side plates, if it does not slide on, you have to use the supplied set of special screws to expand it. Perfect for what I wanted to accomplish.
Using the 220 grit lapping paste from my scope ring lapping kit, I lapped in the BKL mount to the rails, (if anyone is interested I could add pictures and go into details of the lapping) . Prior to lapping, I taped off everything except the rails, and after lapping and cleaning I lubed and tensioned the screws so that when fired the scope and mount moves forward 1/4 of an inch relative to the rails. There is absolutely no side or vertical play when I apply force to both ends of the scope. I could back off on the screws slightly, and the scope/mount would still have no play, but I did not want the scope/mount to be sliding back an forth to easily when moving around with the rifle.
I clamped a rail mounted level at the rear of the rail to act as a stop and the scope to be reset to after each shot. Someday I may add a spring, but for now, when I cock the rifle with some vertical angle, it slides back into position and because of the way I lapped it, there is a bit of stiction the last 1/32 of an inch that holds the scope/mount in place for bench shooting purposes. I put a stop at the front of the rail as insurance, though with the slight stiction is almost not needed. I am pretty sure that I have minimized the g forces in both directions considerably without affecting accuracy. LONG LIVE THE SCOPE !!!
--- End quote ---
In this setup, exactly where is the movement taking place? I hope you don't have the mount sliding back/forth on the actual dovetail cuts in the receiver! Please explain this in a bit more detail. Please forgive my ignorance, but I'm having a bit of trouble envisioning exactly what you are doing here (where is the sliding taking place?). A pic or two would be nice for us more visual types. Also, I fear that the "slight stiction" you mention will quickly become NO stiction after many shot cycles, and will therefore need constant adjustment to control the friction component relative to the rails.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version