GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => American/U.S. Air Gun Gates => Daisy Gate => Topic started by: stonykill on November 30, 2015, 06:48:30 PM
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I answer these over and over again. So I thought I would include them in one thread
Q) My 880 won't pump air. What do I do?
A) simplest answer is, the bolt needs to be cycled to pump air. 2nd most common cause is lack of oil or the wrong oil. 30 weight non detergent is all you want to use. Disregard one of the largest air gun blogs claims that pellgun is the same thing. It is not. 30 wt nd is the only oil for an 880. Make sure the foam wiper at the piston is 1) still there and 2) wet with oil. If it is still there and dry, it will take 4 to 6 good drops of oil to wet it enough. This foam wiper is what keeps your oring oiled.
Q) I have trouble loading a pellet in my 880. How do I load it
A) pull the bolt back. Push it forward JUST enough to block the BB loading port. Tilt the gun either slightly towards the ground, or slightly up in the air and roll the pellet in. It won't flip on you if you follow these instructions.
Q) Ok, more of a statement, "I can't shoot an 880 as pumping it hurts my hands."
A) Pumping an 880 is really easy if done correctly. Here is how I do it. Learned after removing skin from fingers trying to put all 4 fingers in the pump arm. Put 2 fingers in the pump arm. Palm resting on the top of the pump arm. Off hand at the joint of the stock and receiver. Pump in a scissor like action. Smooth , easy quiet pumping.
Q) Are the internal parts of a metal receiver 880 the same as the new ones and can I buy them from Daisy?
A) No, and No. The parts are not the same, and PLEASE forget you read the threads here that say the new seals will work in an old 880. They will not. No Daisy no longer services those guns but several places do, including one of our sponsors Bakers Air guns.
Just a few random basics.
If you pick up a used 880 that has clearly shot bb's, clean that barrel and clean it well. I have picked up yard sale 880's and the barrels were so dirty I thought at 1st the rifling was worn out. The rifling was FILLED with copper coating and green growing off of the copper coating from the BB's. HOT water, purple, green or orange bio degradable cleaner, and Qtips are your friends here.
The stock wiggles. Separate the receiver 1/2's . Safety off, bolt side removed 1st to avoid the safety and spring from flying across the room, and pull out the stock. A few wraps around the portion of the stock that goes into the receiver with electrical tape generally clears that issue right up. This is a common problem with the metal receiver guns and the plastic receiver guns until just a few years ago. The newer Chinese guns took care of this issue
Toss that stock 4 x 15 scope that comes with the 880 in the garbage. That scope is just that good. Don't blame poor accuracy on a free garbage scope.
Look up the tape mod. Take 2 minutes out of your life and do it. Your accuracy will improve.
Pull off the butt plate and put a tube of silicone from a caulking gun into it. The balance and weight of the 880 significantly improve with this simple mod.
Probably the single most important mod one can do to the 880 is the same as any other AG. DO the trigger mods. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, have someone do it for you. Night and day difference.
Hope this helps streamline things.
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Ok, so this is the perennial Ford - Chevy argument. I have recently bought an 881 that needs re-hab. I have to say right now......I am the original Crosman guy. I love old 101's, I love Crosmans....This 881 impresses me....I have old period one 760's that I consider the best BB- pellet guns ever.....I am going to have my fun with this 881....
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How do I determine the date of mfg. ?
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http://forum.daisymuseum.com/daisy-880-date-of-manufacture_topic3514.html (http://forum.daisymuseum.com/daisy-880-date-of-manufacture_topic3514.html)
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Thanks!
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As far as the barrel tape mod goes: I'm having trouble understanding exactly where the electrical tape goes on the straw-barrel and how much to put. I've scoured the threads and can't find one that gives a good description of how much tape to put and where. Sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put a whole lot a little ways back from the muzzle, sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put very little right on the muzzle.
What do?
I just put enough tape on the barrel (just behind the last bit of plastic from the barrel cap) so that I could slip the barrel into the outer shell. I *think* this is what I'm supposed to do, but I honestly couldn't feel if it fit any more snugly in or not.
I think it will help a whole lot of folks if someone clearly explains (in this thread) how much electrical tape to add and where exactly to add it. Pictures and measurements would be great. That way, if someone comes looking, they'll find it on the FAQ thread!
Thanks.
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As far as the barrel tape mod goes: I'm having trouble understanding exactly where the electrical tape goes on the straw-barrel and how much to put. I've scoured the threads and can't find one that gives a good description of how much tape to put and where. Sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put a whole lot a little ways back from the muzzle, sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put very little right on the muzzle.
What do?
I just put enough tape on the barrel (just behind the last bit of plastic from the barrel cap) so that I could slip the barrel into the outer shell. I *think* this is what I'm supposed to do, but I honestly couldn't feel if it fit any more snugly in or not.
I think it will help a whole lot of folks if someone clearly explains (in this thread) how much electrical tape to add and where exactly to add it. Pictures and measurements would be great. That way, if someone comes looking, they'll find it on the FAQ thread!
Thanks.
There is no way to come up with precise measurements. The plastic mule, is just that plastic. Plastic when molded, shrinks, and while they will shrink within a certain tolerance , that could vary as much as .030. So measurements are out of the question.
The tape, generally one to three wraps of electrical tape, goes ON the straw barrel, about 3/8ths of an inch from the muzzle end of said straw barrel. If done correctly, you won't notice a big difference in feel, while installing the plastic muzzle. All you are doing is taking away the "slop" at the muzzle end of the straw barrel, where it meets the plastic muzzle.
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As far as the barrel tape mod goes: I'm having trouble understanding exactly where the electrical tape goes on the straw-barrel and how much to put. I've scoured the threads and can't find one that gives a good description of how much tape to put and where. Sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put a whole lot a little ways back from the muzzle, sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put very little right on the muzzle.
What do?
I just put enough tape on the barrel (just behind the last bit of plastic from the barrel cap) so that I could slip the barrel into the outer shell. I *think* this is what I'm supposed to do, but I honestly couldn't feel if it fit any more snugly in or not.
I think it will help a whole lot of folks if someone clearly explains (in this thread) how much electrical tape to add and where exactly to add it. Pictures and measurements would be great. That way, if someone comes looking, they'll find it on the FAQ thread!
Thanks.
There is no way to come up with precise measurements. The plastic mule, is just that plastic. Plastic when molded, shrinks, and while they will shrink within a certain tolerance , that could vary as much as .030. So measurements are out of the question.
The tape, generally one to three wraps of electrical tape, goes ON the straw barrel, about 3/8ths of an inch from the muzzle end of said straw barrel. If done correctly, you won't notice a big difference in feel, while installing the plastic muzzle. All you are doing is taking away the "slop" at the muzzle end of the straw barrel, where it meets the plastic muzzle.
Excellent! Thank you. I think I was getting confused between this and the barrel supports people are making which go further back on the straw barrel.
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As far as the barrel tape mod goes: I'm having trouble understanding exactly where the electrical tape goes on the straw-barrel and how much to put. I've scoured the threads and can't find one that gives a good description of how much tape to put and where. Sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put a whole lot a little ways back from the muzzle, sometimes it seems like I'm supposed to put very little right on the muzzle.
What do?
I just put enough tape on the barrel (just behind the last bit of plastic from the barrel cap) so that I could slip the barrel into the outer shell. I *think* this is what I'm supposed to do, but I honestly couldn't feel if it fit any more snugly in or not.
I think it will help a whole lot of folks if someone clearly explains (in this thread) how much electrical tape to add and where exactly to add it. Pictures and measurements would be great. That way, if someone comes looking, they'll find it on the FAQ thread!
Thanks.
There is no way to come up with precise measurements. The plastic mule, is just that plastic. Plastic when molded, shrinks, and while they will shrink within a certain tolerance , that could vary as much as .030. So measurements are out of the question.
The tape, generally one to three wraps of electrical tape, goes ON the straw barrel, about 3/8ths of an inch from the muzzle end of said straw barrel. If done correctly, you won't notice a big difference in feel, while installing the plastic muzzle. All you are doing is taking away the "slop" at the muzzle end of the straw barrel, where it meets the plastic muzzle.
Excellent! Thank you. I think I was getting confused between this and the barrel supports people are making which go further back on the straw barrel.
I automatically make them as well
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Anyone following Stony's tips will have a GREAT shooter! I sure do!
Put a Tasco 2-7x30 scope on mine and finally got to really tune it in the other day.
The little fluorescent sticky dots used for yard sales; about the size of a nickel? Hitting them EASY at 25 yards time after time. Buddy took a magic marker and put a dot in the center of one. I drilled it.
I've done no power mods, just filled the stock, removed the silver shim from the trigger,and did the barrel tape mod.
Thanks Stony!
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Anyone following Stony's tips will have a GREAT shooter! I sure do!
Put a Tasco 2-7x30 scope on mine and finally got to really tune it in the other day.
The little fluorescent sticky dots used for yard sales; about the size of a nickel? Hitting them EASY at 25 yards time after time. Buddy took a magic marker and put a dot in the center of one. I drilled it.
I've done no power mods, just filled the stock, removed the silver shim from the trigger,and did the barrel tape mod.
Thanks Stony!
Happy i could be of help.
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Hi Stony, its great that you have helped so many with their 800 mods including me leading me to collect various daisy models including my 822. recently i got my 822 running again with new seals and it seams to continue to shoot constantly to the left after 10 yards even on the bench. I can stack pellets out to 5 yards with it. I have tried quite a bit such as tape mod, changed the barrel shroud as the original one had some damage to it. i have done some reading and i think it might be the crown on the barre. I will be taking it apart to look at it soon. have you ever done the home re-crown with a brass slotted bolt, as I have seen online. thanks.
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sorry, 922 accuracy problems not 822
dont want to hijack the thread. is there a difference in the crown in the old daisy vs the new.
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Airgunner, I recrown most ever 880 I touch. The method you describe will work well for you. No I have not seen any difference in crowns, old vs new.
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Thanks stony, you have given me the courage to now venture into recrowning my 880. I will start withe my modded 880 as i do all my mods on it first before touching my older models. thank you for all that you have posted and shown us for these timeless models.
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Thank you so much for the loose stock tip. I have been googling the interwebs and been unable to find an answer to that, and I have had too many instances in my life where I have taken apart things without knowing what I would find and had it end with me needing to spend 10 dollars shipping on a 50 cent spring. The tape trick worked perfectly and it was easy to do.
I would just add that the BB magazine should be empty first...but hey, that's what old hard drive magnates are for ;D
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Happy I could help.
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Could you also “Steroid” an 822 or 901 someone sent you? I understand the valve doesn’t have the capacity to make really big power... but a little upping of the power/efficiency, extend bolt probe, polish lead/crown, etc.
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Could you also “Steroid” an 822 or 901 someone sent you? I understand the valve doesn’t have the capacity to make really big power... but a little upping of the power/efficiency, extend bolt probe, polish lead/crown, etc.
A 901 has EXACTLY the same internals as an 880. Only the plastic is different on the 2 guns. I'm currently not modding ag's. No time. I may again in the winter, but in warm weather, no.
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Good to hear from you Tom... Hope all is well.
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++1 starting to wonder where you went!
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++1 starting to wonder where you went!
Glad to see you both Bill and Wendel
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Let me know when you're back into the swing, I may have some "stuff" for you.
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Let me know when you're back into the swing, I may have some "stuff" for you.
Ditto. Jeff gave me an 856 that I cut down and my 6yo can just start to shoot it unsupported. Then finally got an 880. Then remembered the blog I came across about a homesteader with a thing for Daisy’s.
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That boy does amazing things to an 880 trigger. I need another. I know that's why Betty Lou out shoots me. ;)
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Let me know when you're back into the swing, I may have some "stuff" for you.
Will do. I like "stuff" :D
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my bud just picked me up a yard sale find..Camo 35 with scope!
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my bud just picked me up a yard sale find..Camo 35 with scope!
Nice! Fun ag's
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Could you also “Steroid” an 822 or 901 someone sent you? I understand the valve doesn’t have the capacity to make really big power... but a little upping of the power/efficiency, extend bolt probe, polish lead/crown, etc.
The first trick to boosting power in all of the cheap pumpers is to get the piston/piston rod as stiff as you can so it doesn't flex in conjunction with ensuring the end of the piston rests perfectly flush against the valve on the compression stroke. That nets more power with every stroke on the high end.
#2 is the size/capacity of the valve. Smaller valves generate more pressure and power per stroke, larger valves obviously have higher capacity. Bigger valve volume = higher max/top end power, smaller valve = more power per stroke.
The MAC1 steroid isn't just about power. It is about enhancing the strength of the gun to last longer with the "abuse" incurred from lots of pumping and pressure.
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Don’t know if all versions are like this, but my gun (an ‘80s 922), is possessed of a trigger-mechanism quirk that allows for a ‘set’ trigger. It works like this:
Load/charge ur Daisy rifle. Before you fire and with the gun on safe, pull the trigger (it should move/click without firing)
Now click the safety off, take aim and unleash the fury. The trigger should now be a near ‘hair’ trigger and much lighter. With repetition, taking-up that pre-slack before shooting becomes second nature. Watch ur groups magically shrink!
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Don’t know if all versions are like this, but my gun (an ‘80s 922), is possessed of a trigger-mechanism quirk that allows for a ‘set’ trigger. It works like this:
Load/charge ur Daisy rifle. Before you fire and with the gun on safe, pull the trigger (it should move/click without firing)
Now click the safety off, take aim and unleash the fury. The trigger should now be a near ‘hair’ trigger and much lighter. With repetition, taking-up that pre-slack before shooting becomes second nature. Watch ur groups magically shrink!
huh, I'll give it a shot...
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Tom - Please don't go away. I read everything you have written several times. It makes the best manual an 880 owner can have. Follow it religously. Just bought a cheap new Crosman Charger at a garage sale. Dum Dum. Trigger not too bad, but what a pig to cock. Returning to my 880. Crosman will be on the market. GO DAISY.
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Seemed like there used to be more replies in this topic.
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I picked up a used powerline 880 recently, the magnetic tip is missing on the bolt. It functions most of the time but jams occasionally. Should I replace the bolt?
I only use pellets.
Thanks
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I picked up a used powerline 880 recently, the magnetic tip is missing on the bolt. It functions most of the time but jams occasionally. Should I replace the bolt?
I only use pellets.
Thanks
Mr. Chris,
Does your 880 have plastic or metal receiver?
Old style bolts are pretty much only available used...
At any rate, I would recommend you find something about the correct diameter, a nail ot metal coat hanger (remember those??) and snip off a
piece to glue into the end of your bolt probe.
This is necessary to push the pellet beyond the transfer port.
Good luck!
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I picked up a used powerline 880 recently, the magnetic tip is missing on the bolt. It functions most of the time but jams occasionally. Should I replace the bolt?
I only use pellets.
Thanks
Mr. Chris,
Does your 880 have plastic or metal receiver?
Old style bolts are pretty much only available used...
At any rate, I would recommend you find something about the correct diameter, a nail ot metal coat hanger (remember those??) and snip off a
piece to glue into the end of your bolt probe.
This is necessary to push the pellet beyond the transfer port.
Good luck!
It's plastic receiver, all black, pretty new would be my guess. There wasn't much depth of the hole to glue my homemade probe into but not much sticks out so it should be fine. I'll probably just order a new one just in case.
Thanks for your help
.
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If yours has the 6 screws(4 small, 2 large) at the receiver/stock joint, you can get a new bolt from Daisy.
If it only has 1 large screw, you gonna be chasing a used one.....
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Q) Are the internal parts of a metal receiver 880 the same as the new ones and can I buy them from Daisy?
A) No, and No. The parts are not the same, and PLEASE forget you read the threads here that say the new seals will work in an old 880. They will not. No Daisy no longer services those guns but several places do, including one of our sponsors Bakers Air guns.
The answer to this question needs to be modified as there haveneen developments since originally posed and answered.
A) No, and No...but....... the new U-cup seal CAN be used in the older metal receiver 880's with the available adapter.
Total functionality is restored; cash is saved; future resealing, if needed, becomes VERY inexpensive.
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One suggestion for all 880 owners:
When not in use, leave the pump lever open just slightly.
This will unload the "elastomer spring" ...bumper on the pump linkage, and keep
it from taking a set in the compressed position......
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One suggestion for all 880 owners:
When not in use, leave the pump lever open just slightly.
This will unload the "elastomer spring" ...bumper on the pump linkage, and keep
it from taking a set in the compressed position......
Noted, since I have many to care for less future repairs are welcome.
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Got my (newer model, plastic) 880 out and find that I like the dime-size groupings it is mostly capable of. But not so much the heavy trigger. I just want to lighten it up from about 5 1/2 lbs to 3 1/2 ~ 4 lbs. Reading here and there and so, replace with this spring, cut that spring, but is there just a nice drop-in trigger spring (not the flat spring)? I'm not even sure of the dimension of the stock spring. One of those spring pack/kits? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Prime-Line-64-Pack-1-in-x-1-in-Steel/5014399437 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Prime-Line-64-Pack-1-in-x-1-in-Steel/5014399437) https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/specialty-hardware/springs/5214812 (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/specialty-hardware/springs/5214812) or maybe this (will have to order, not carried locally): https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/specialty-hardware/springs/5214481 (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/specialty-hardware/springs/5214481) And a trigger shoe that fits? Thanks.
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the flat spring removal helps a ton... and its free. try that first.
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Please look thru this thread: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=189250.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=189250.0)