Donation

All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > Czech & Russian Air Guns

46M available from Pyramid

<< < (3/43) > >>

subscriber:
Another thought; is it possible that you did not fully latch the breech as shown in image E in the manual, here:  https://www.pyramydair.com/air-gunsresources/manuals/AV-46M-owners-manual.pdf

You have to push down deliberately to fully latch the breech on my Baikal version  of this pistol.  It is possible to almost latch it, but without full engagement of the latch - if you don't push far/hard enough.

If you fire the pistol after lowering the breech, but not latching (the storage condition - except for being cocked), then the breech seals have a way of blowing out...

hoteltwofive:
The box has no extra parts- took it completely apart, just in case it was hiding a secret compartment.  I did get a PM from Frank, after also researching on the forum, about the seals and correct positioning.  I did have them incorrectly seated when I tried to put them back in. 

Unfortunately it’s still a no go for me thus far.  It is now down to pellets I’m using - as I’m a lead free basement shooter- using lead free GTO’s (6.79 grain I believe they are), or seals.  The gun does seem to dry fire, but it doesn’t seem to be producing much power.  Much less than I expected, even rated for shooting 480 FPS according to the product listing. 

I will try to get some pictures of the barrel- I have had poor luck posting pictures recently, so I could email them to you if I take a few? 

I made sure to have the correct loading procedure for the gun before I’ve shot it.  The red dot on top, as best I can tell, is to show you that the gun is loaded- a loaded chamber indicator- as the dot is exposed when you press down the breech all the way, as shown in the manual. When not fully pressed down, you can’t see the dot. 

I will have to get a different type of lead free pellet to use- hopefully something will work.  I also have to try some additional tips that Frank also PM’d me.  Wish me luck!

Frank in Fairfield:
Another thing I do with my IZZY??
Just like we were told to do with Sheridan pumpers, I leave air in the chamber when stored.
I fully cock the gun and return the lever to battery.
Then without loading, I lower the bolt and leave it unlatched to protect the breech seals.
When ready to shoot again, I close the bolt and dry fire the pistol.
I suppose you could raise the bolt and insert a pellet and fire it but I have never done that.
The sound of the pistol firing without the pellet tells me it is fully charged.
I know the manual doesn’t state to leave air in the pistol but I think seals last longer when the pistol (or rifle) is pressurized.

subscriber:
Gavin,

This should not be required, but if it were my pistol, I would add to two four drops of oil to the compression pistol seal.  Shown in the online manual.  (First see my comment about over oiling reducing pellet velocity below)  I use straight mineral oil in mine.  Crosman Benjamin pneumatic pistol manuals suggest straight detergent free 30 weight motor oil.   My Baikal manual states to use non-solvent "gun oil".

I mention this oil recommendation for those who are reflexive about oil combustion in PCP reservoirs - a valid caution, in that case.  With a single stroke pneumatics, the compression is not fast enough to diesel the oil.  The pressure is not very high; and the volume of compressed air is a tiny fraction of any PCP air tank.

The manuals do warn not to use solvents; and by inference that would mean don't use CLP.  Spray lubes and cleaners containing ether would be much easier to light...

The other thing to do is to lay two sheets of TP over the breech when you shoot with a pellet.  If there is a leak, the paper should move.  Shooting without a pellet won't stress the breech seal  enough to show a leak - unless it is outrageous.

If the assumption is that the breech leaks because the power is low, that may not be the reason.  Despite being light, the tin alloy pellets may simply be too tight for your barrel.

If I had your pistol in hand, I would be able to tell if the cocking force was low, indicating a pistol seal leak (perhaps because it is dry), or a very conservatively set compression ratio - adjustable on this pistol.  See how its done here: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153027.msg155687779#msg155687779

How to change piston seal (same preliminary steps required to set the compression):  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153388.0

It may be possible that the valve leaks.  Other than low power, that would show as power reducing significantly, if you wait a minute after cocking.  If that is your suspicion, I would dry fire the pistols 50 times in a row.  After applying at least two drops of oil to the piston seal:  With the pistol flipped upside down, fully open the cocking lever to draw the piston all the way forwards.  Drop oil right on the seal lip that should be visible at the end of the slot.

If you overdo the oiling, the gun will continue to "sneeze" oil for many shots - perhaps 50.   During that time the velocity will actually be low due to the extra drag of the pellet wiping oil out of the bore.  So, that is another thing you can check:  Dry fire the pistol with the muzzle 1/2" from some brown cardboard.  If it leaves more than the faintest oil drops, then your pistol may be over oiled.  In that case, stand the pistols muzzle up for a few hours.  Then  dry fire it 25 times, muzzle up, some place you don't mind oil spray landing...

My 46M shoots 7.3 grain H&N Excite wadcutters at 500 FPS.  This, after I increased the compression ratio, because it seemed under powered.  This does increase the peak cocking force. However, the nature of the cocking mechanism is such that it is very gentle, and does not hurt one's hand, like the P17 tends to do.  I do not have tin alloy pellets to try.

Will PM you my email address for pics, in case you struggle with attaching them by using the Attachments and other options function, directly below and to the left of the reply posting window.

hoteltwofive:
Thank you for the additional feedback and recommendations.

So the latest update...I made up a quick trap to shoot lead into, in my garage.  Tried no less than 5 different types of lead pellets with different grain weights.  Out of at least 45 attempts to shoot, I had 1 single pellet fire. 

There is a decent amount of air coming out of the barrel when I dry fire it, which is encouraging.

So my guess continues to go back to my first thought of the bad breech seals.  The tp test as recommended appears to blow the paper slightly.  However my eyes are getting tired, so I will re-attempt this hopefully tomorrow.  (I also want to make sure I can spare a square lol).

I was able to find in my stash some other lead free pellets that seemed to go into the breech a bit easier - these were some flat nosed Daisy pellets - uncertain gain weight as it’s not on the tin and currently getting too late to search for the exact ones on the interwebs.  All of the lead pellets I tried were all were fairly snug like the GTO’s I first tried. 

I really want this gun to work.  I love the design, and have always wanted the original version.  Hoping for a simple fix with the seal replacement and not some other gremlin plaguing the pistol. 

However, at the price point, this gun should be ready to run out of the box and also include some spare parts.  For that, I am disappointed and frustrated.  Hopefully everyone who has ordered one will not have issues.  For potential buyers, it is up to you to roll the dice, like any other Airgun that we buy. 

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page