You have me stumped. Suggested those rings and the way I mount them because it's worked without issue on every Hatsan and Turkish built Webley rifle I've owned or still do. Never used a torque wrench, don't even own one. All mine have been mounted and tightened by hand. My guns have 1000's of rounds through them and I've never had a base slide on the dovetails, a scope slide inside the rings or the grip tape go anywhere but stick to the scope if I took it off to change scopes. 2 Model 95's, 2 Model 87QE's, 3 Edges and a couple Strikers along with their cousins Hatsan built for Webley & Scott in the 4 Tomahawks, a Spector and 4 Valuemax rifles.Heck, except for 1, I also have those same rings on 3 Beemans, 2 Dianas, Mendoza and Norica rifles too...lol.So yep, you have me stumped and I'll just stop suggesting the ways I did things since what I do doesn't seem to work for anyone else.
The Quattro trigger, I give it 3 out of 10. I adjusted it per Hatsan’s youtube and after adjusting the 1st stage some. Pretty much what was recommended was the best. Working from butt to muzzle, rear set screw(# pull) from full out, turned in until some resistance is felt and then a 1/4 turn. 1st stage cap screw 1.5 turns out from full in, gives a long 1st stage and the shortest 2nd stage. 2nd stage cap screw, goes all the way in. This measured 5-5.4 lbs of pull, the 2nd stage has what feels like 2 gritty stages before your at the break, which takes a little more pressure to fire. I was able to get decent groups, but took longer per shot than I would like and I feel this would really discourage a shooter with limited experience/skills. I have seen enough posts complaining of big groups and shotgun patterns, I believe this is probably the main issue, besides hold.I got a longer M3x.50, 14mm long cap screw for the sear 2nd stage adjust. I beveled the end of the screw at a 45 all around and cleaned it up with 600 grit. It is slightly flat on top, which feels better to me, less pressure in one spot. The rounded stock screw was being cut into by the mating surface. I polished it back up but after 50 shots it had grooves cut back into it, I guess my trigger internals are rough.Adding a longer screw should only be done by a gunsmith and could make the gun inoperable or fire when not intended. I did all adjustments at gun range for safety. It was a small adjustment area, I put it in with 2mm showing as that was the difference but it was too far and the trigger would not move, I backed it out to 4mm and slowly turned in until it felt like stock, uncocked. Then a 1/8 at time firing a pellet between adjustments until it felt good, tested the safety, then beat the butt with a rubber mallet with and without the safety on. Once at stock settings, not much more then a .5mm is needed. It breaks at 3-3.5 lbs, could go lower but it is not needed(safer), long 1st stage with a short 2nd and breaks with almost no creep. I had to screw in the 1st stage some with the new 2nd stage screw. I rate it at 6 out of 10 with the new screw and breaks clean enough to not be a accuracy factor anymore.
I'd try 8.2 grs RWS Meisterkugeln w/c and/or RWS R-10 Match 8.2 grs w/c.