Author Topic: 1/2 - 20 Moderator long and short versions (Read 372 times))

bduares · « **on:** March 13, 2025, 04:02:01 PM »

Here's a really good moderator in 1/2-20 and a shorty version of it as well

I print it with 100% infill. No supports needed.

aluminumfetish · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2025, 04:28:22 PM »

I just finished a print and saw this, going to try it now. Let you know in about 3 hours if it printed ok.

bduares · « **Reply #2 on:** March 13, 2025, 05:33:46 PM »

Thingiverse keeps taking the files down so it will have to live here now

smythsg · « **Reply #3 on:** March 13, 2025, 06:12:58 PM »

Seems the author made a reference to 22LR and some of the comments talked about that as well. I'm not too surprised that Thingiverse keeps taking them down...

bduares · « **Reply #4 on:** March 13, 2025, 10:26:53 PM »

I saw that, though they did leave up his multiple 10/22 silencers

smythsg · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2025, 10:16:43 AM »

I guess Karen hasn't made it that far yet...

OldCrow · « **Reply #6 on:** March 14, 2025, 01:33:32 PM »

Looks like a good design. Nice incorporation of the "stripper" idea. Get that turbulent air away from the path of the pellet as soon as possible.
I might print one of those.

bduares · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2025, 02:59:25 PM »

Here's one I painted black on my Suumatra, and another one I just printed this morning. Large Whataburger cup for scale

smythsg · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2025, 03:03:23 PM »

That large Whataburger cup probably cost you way more than that print did...

OldCrow · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2025, 03:13:19 PM »

Quote from: bduares on March 14, 2025, 02:59:25 PM

Here's one I painted black on my Suumatra, and another one I just printed this morning. Large Whataburger cup for scale

How does it shoot WRT accuracy? For what caliber is it designed?

You know the short version does not have an endcap on the muzzle end? I see also the baffle design is not the same in the longer and shorter versions?

I'm running the longer version right now. If that is 1/2 x 20 UNF thread pattern I might get to test it tomorrow.

bduares · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2025, 05:40:03 PM »

As far as can remember from before the thing was removed from Thingiverse it was designed for .22. Same guy made these 2 as well as 2 others designed for a Ruger 10/22 that fit directly over the front sight blade and twisted on.

The only thing I have tested it on is my Sumatra. At first I was using it with a 3D printed barrel adapter but I kept snapping the adapter in half accidentally bumping it on things so I broke down and bought the metal adapter from Airgun Capital for $23
"Diana Chaser M10x1 to 1/2-20 UNF Adapter"
https://airguncapital.com/products/diana-chaser-m10x1-adapter

Works great. As far as accuracy I have not noticed any worsening.

I've printed 2 of these so far in PLA, and since I picked up another 10 rolls of PETG today and I wanted to try some of the new filament out I am printing another one.
By the way I give 2 thumbs up to the Sunlu filament dryer. Doesn't matter how old your filament is, it gets it's RH into the 30s pretty quick and doubles as an in-use filament holder/roller dispenser. I print everything now directly from that thing

bduares · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2025, 07:01:01 PM »

Printing away...yes the printer is dusty. That one sits 4" off the floor under a table next to my desk

OldCrow · « **Reply #12 on:** March 14, 2025, 09:13:47 PM »

Quote from: bduares on March 14, 2025, 07:01:01 PM

Printing away...yes the printer is dusty. That one sits 4" off the floor under a table next to my desk

My print failed about half way through and I got distracted making parts for my drone. The FDM printer had not had any love in a while and just needed dusting off and tuning up a bit.

When that print failed I cut that moderator apart. That thing is over built. The walls are about 2.5 mm thick as are the cones in the baffles. I like the designer's thinking though. I might give it another go tomorrow.

Good luck.

bduares · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2025, 09:20:58 PM »

I believe what you call overbuilt is probably due to the designer making it for a PB originally. All I know are the other designs of his that I saw on Thingiverse, 2 of which were for a .22 PB Ruger, with the weird front blade sight slots in them. This one was advertised on Thingiverse as an air gun moderator though, so I will take it at that since it works well for me

This is the guy's Thingiverse page. He has 35 designs there

https://www.thingiverse.com/blackmagic12/designs

My Ender 3, with all the mods and extra stuff on it, direct drive, etc, is very touchy and tempermental. Look at it wrong and it won't work for you. My Anycubic Mega S is the opposite. I could beat on it with a hammer and it would still produce fantastic prints

smythsg · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2025, 08:08:47 AM »

Jared, I have the Ender3 V2 printer with no mods, just stock. I will try one of these in the next day or two after the storms have passed. Just curious which slicer you are using and if you made any particular custom changes to the settings for the print?

Struckat · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2025, 01:56:48 PM »

Is there a solution for the end cap on the short one?

bduares · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2025, 02:05:11 PM »

Steve:
First I have to say I run Linux. Have for many years.

I have Cura, but since I switched to Orcaslicer I have been very happy, though there was a small learning curve involved compared to Cura. I have so far printed this moderator 4x in both PLA+ and PETG, using Kingroon filament. I use a Sunlu filament dryer that feeds directly into my printer's filament sensor and keeps the filament at less than 40% RH. Other than having some printed bed adjusting knobs that fit onto the smaller factory knobs my Anycubic Mega S is stock. In Orcaslicer I unticked the box that allows images in the .gcode file because the Anycubic machine's software hates certain characters.

In PLA+ I print these at 210C with a bed temp of 80C. In PETG I print at 255C with a bed temp of 90C.

Don't know if it will help but I am attaching my printer and filament settings I exported from Orcaslicer. I had to zip them to put them here. They are in json format but can be looked at with any text editor. I haven't tried it but I assume if you download Orcaslicer and import these it will give you a lot more info.

smythsg · « **Reply #17 on:** March 15, 2025, 04:27:43 PM »

Thanks so much Jared, I too run all my computers on Linux and currently have Cura and Prusa slicer. At the moment I only have a few rolls of PLA, but plan to order some PETG to play with soon.

bduares · « **Reply #18 on:** March 15, 2025, 08:43:24 PM »

Here's Orcaslicer's web page

https://orca-slicer.com/

I buy things online from auction companies that bulk buy Amazon overstock/return pallets by the semi-truck load, and they often have things up for bid like 10 and 12 packs of PLA/PETG. I got a 10 pack of nice Kingroon PETG a few days ago for $60. Lately they have been having several PCP guns up for auction. In the past month there were Hatsan Piledriver and Hammers in .50, lots of various Gamos, Umarex Zelos's and Iconixs in .22. As an example, a few weeks ago Hatsan Hammers as a brand new returns made it all the way to $445 when they sold. I picked up another brand new compressor for myself at auction for $100 2 weeks ago.

subscriber · « **Reply #19 on:** **Today** at 02:08:01 AM »

I notice that the longer version of the mod shown by the OP has a lot of baffles in it. Rather than me arguing against that, I would like to offer a mod I designed, with the opposite philosophy: Fewer baffles, strategically spaced, to maximize internal volume. Print it and test it, if you like.

1/2-20 thread. STL attached.

If it is too long for your printer, I probably have ones that are more suitable to your requirements.

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1/2 - 20 Moderator long and short versions

Author Topic: 1/2 - 20 Moderator long and short versions (Read 372 times))