Quote from: mrbulk on October 01, 2020, 08:11:48 PMQuote from: oldpro on October 01, 2020, 07:33:27 PMQuote from: ranchibi on October 01, 2020, 05:01:28 PMCharlie, I have the exact same one! It gets it mechanically close and most reticles are close to being level with the housing....good enough for me as my head isn’t symmetrical either....LOL! Randall sent me one FREE and its all I use.Travis what magical spell does one need to get all that free stuff like you do? I just share my time with good people like Randall he also sent me a great putter that replaced my scotty Cameron and thats not easy to do!
Quote from: oldpro on October 01, 2020, 07:33:27 PMQuote from: ranchibi on October 01, 2020, 05:01:28 PMCharlie, I have the exact same one! It gets it mechanically close and most reticles are close to being level with the housing....good enough for me as my head isn’t symmetrical either....LOL! Randall sent me one FREE and its all I use.Travis what magical spell does one need to get all that free stuff like you do?
Quote from: ranchibi on October 01, 2020, 05:01:28 PMCharlie, I have the exact same one! It gets it mechanically close and most reticles are close to being level with the housing....good enough for me as my head isn’t symmetrical either....LOL! Randall sent me one FREE and its all I use.
Charlie, I have the exact same one! It gets it mechanically close and most reticles are close to being level with the housing....good enough for me as my head isn’t symmetrical either....LOL!
FYI, it looks like it works on the same way as the Arisaka jig. It assumes the gun is mechanically perfect, the scope rings are centered over the rail, and that the reticle is clocked perfectly to the scope body.It will probably work well most of the time but be aware that it may or may not achieve the thing that matters, which is that the reticle is aligned with the muzzle.A free and reliable method way to achieve this alignment is to look through the scope and view your reflection in a mirror. Twist the scope in the rings until the vertical bar of reticle simultaneously bisects the muzzle and the scope's ocular bell. This step prevents scope cant.Then to prevent gun cant, attach a spirit level to the scope tube such that it indicates level when you view a plumb line through the scope and align your reticle to it. From that point forward, trust the spirit level to align your reticle and the pellet's corresponding trajectory to the force of gravity.
Quote from: nervoustrigger on October 01, 2020, 08:24:07 PMFYI, it looks like it works on the same way as the Arisaka jig. It assumes the gun is mechanically perfect, the scope rings are centered over the rail, and that the reticle is clocked perfectly to the scope body.It will probably work well most of the time but be aware that it may or may not achieve the thing that matters, which is that the reticle is aligned with the muzzle.A free and reliable method way to achieve this alignment is to look through the scope and view your reflection in a mirror. Twist the scope in the rings until the vertical bar of reticle simultaneously bisects the muzzle and the scope's ocular bell. This step prevents scope cant.Then to prevent gun cant, attach a spirit level to the scope tube such that it indicates level when you view a plumb line through the scope and align your reticle to it. From that point forward, trust the spirit level to align your reticle and the pellet's corresponding trajectory to the force of gravity.Jason,I have not tried your method, but I'm wondering how my method of instruments will check against this. Also, I think if a plumb line was hung through the mirror and everything was aligned to this at first, I wonder what the final result would be. I gotta check what some of my scope mounts look like in a mirror. I'm guessing they're right on, but your method would be really simple and only requires a mirror, and if you want to add my idea of a plumb line to get the level lined up right off the bat seems really simple.
I think if we go by the title of my OP, we would realize that this device is for quick and simple approximate leveling of the scope relative to the gun rails.As already mentioned in a couple of earlier replies, this device is great for easy scope install to accommodate the kind of shooting most on here enjoy, namely hobbyist shooting at normal airgun ranges and not world-class benchrest distance shooting.Kindly take this thread in the spirit intended so that more can enjoy our hobby, rather than pointing out our leveling “errors” that might be salient at 500 or a thousand yards but not so much at 25-50 yards that most of us shoot in our backyards.Instead maybe just let us regular guys enjoy our fun hobby at relatively shorter distances where a quick-leveling device like this can save time and expand the enjoyment of shooting rather than looking in mirrors and the like.Perhaps we could save the micro-accurate leveling advice for the RMAC competitors. Otherwise it may create a chilling effect for other “amateur” hobbyists and intimidate them from adding their also-valid questions and/or concerns. Please take this comment in the spirit in which it is intended. Thank you.
...comes with a level in it that see through the optics. I never really paid much attention to it cause I've never really used a level for sighting in my rifles...