I just pick it up in a quart/liter bottle and then as boiled linseed oil.I mix that 50/50 with turpentine, to make the linseed penetrate the wood easier.A little goes a long way but truth be told at first it is a relatively heavy amount. The stock will tell how much it can "digest", and youīll soon enough see where the linseed had been absorbed by the stock.At first, to make the stuff soak up to its max just keep at it wet on wet. All stocks react different to this, just read what it tells. As you proceed youīll notice at a given point that the stock doesnīt soak up as much of the stuff anymore. Then leave it be for a while.Yes. Of course you can use the rifle meanwhile, hurts nothing. Just wipe it down after use. Leave it be for like 3+ weeks.. then apply the final coat-s and/or wax.To hand you an idea what the finished product will be. This is approx 150yr old walnut thatīs been just cleaned in depth and then treated per above.Itīs an old Westley Richards so called Monkey tail. A blackpowder rifle in 45 caliber from approx the mid 1860īs. Linseed, oil sanding. Left to cure, more oil sanding and final layer coupled with buffing the thing out.Stock is way better protected vs the elements as well as use while still feeling "all walnut" (for lack of better description)
Basically.Just, you go finer and finer paper as you go for the last bit.I usually stop at 800 or 1200 grit - all depending.Then. BLO does need WEEKS to cure. So this takes a little while.. The "old" way of doing it i guess, but the end result speaks for itself IMO.Many use different versions of pore filler these days. Some work better than others but if itīs that true "wooden feel" you want.. BLO or Danish oil or Tung oil does it.At least thatīs my findings.One added BIG side benefit to this is that a BLO finish is quite simple to "repair". Just add the stuff and repeat per above... youīll be fine.