Quote from: stalwart on November 19, 2013, 02:03:51 AMGuys, the sleepers are selling. Now that this thing looks more like a conspiracy, I'm going to be dropping some tips in here for our SE brethren, and show a couple low buck mods I'm working on just for them.Here's one for consistency: If you limit the stroke by setting a screw in the nose, and adjusting it to interfere before the piston ring reaches the intake hole... and pull the auto safety (convert to manual safety, my prefered mode), so you can hold the trigger while opening... you can cause the gun to intake through the exhaust. The ring will last much longer, seal better, and hold single digit ESs for an amazingly long time. I can't think of a cheaper power adjuster than this.If you open it just enough to put a drop of oil in the port, before cocking, it will not so good the oil down into the valve, then expel any excess with the first cycle.I have run the foot long this way for quite a while, with a #117 (fat), 75 duro ring, and just about the time it used to need a ring... it had instead gained 10fps.Eric,Can you tell use more about bypassing the safety? Is there an internal noise while cocking the pistol with the air entering the pistol thru the breech? Is there any downside to this conversion other that the loss of the automatic safety? BobH.
Guys, the sleepers are selling. Now that this thing looks more like a conspiracy, I'm going to be dropping some tips in here for our SE brethren, and show a couple low buck mods I'm working on just for them.Here's one for consistency: If you limit the stroke by setting a screw in the nose, and adjusting it to interfere before the piston ring reaches the intake hole... and pull the auto safety (convert to manual safety, my prefered mode), so you can hold the trigger while opening... you can cause the gun to intake through the exhaust. The ring will last much longer, seal better, and hold single digit ESs for an amazingly long time. I can't think of a cheaper power adjuster than this.If you open it just enough to put a drop of oil in the port, before cocking, it will not so good the oil down into the valve, then expel any excess with the first cycle.I have run the foot long this way for quite a while, with a #117 (fat), 75 duro ring, and just about the time it used to need a ring... it had instead gained 10fps.
The first thing I do to these is to pull the auto safety's pin, open the hood, and pour it and it's spring out. I was raised to never trust a "safety" device, and to check any "auto" functions. My R10 is auto, but as it requires it's own routine, unique compared to firearms, I learned to deal with it smoothly. Took a while... and the 17s don't have the mid cycle danger point... so only the R10 still has one. YMMV.
Turns out Boats can drive a camera! Took this for the raffle... I'm humbled a bit. Knew I was a hack... just didn't know how much of one... Thanks, Steve!
I have 1 more day entirely free for R&D, and had some fun today.Many plastics can be dyed or at least tinted. Had an LE idea I wanted to try, so I tried doing a grip in scarlet (only color I had). 17s join many RC suspension parts in that they won't take the slightest tints. Now we know...lol.I'm starting to proto stuff for the eventual Stage II upgrade, and wondered what you guys would like to see as standard features. As they will all be upgrades to the Stage I guns (and can be retrofitted), they will concentrate solely on the upper.I have some .177 barrel coming Mon, that I'll use to test for speed vs length. I'll post #s asap, but have paying work coming in Mon as well... business first.I especially need to know if a sight upgrade would be preferable to a system that would allow the use of quality aftermarket sights. I'm thinking that an XL match barrel would be easy to make a front sight base for. I like the idea of inserts, for plenty of options. What do you guys think would make for the best options in sights?
I could imagine quite a few styles.
Here's the current thinking: The smartest way to put a match barrel in these is to go with the LW for the Crosman 1701, cut down to 9.5" and chambered for wadcutters. I'm also thinking about making a front sight block that can be slid back, if needed, to clear an LDC. The pic is something like I'm thinking, and I could make any kind of insert wanted. A block could also be made with dovetails, to take various aftermarket hooded set ups.There are good options for a rear sight, and I'm going to try a block in place of the stocker to simply bolt one on. I've been working with the b3 type, to see if I could come up with something inexpensive, but it would require an offset latch knob, or a flipped latch. It would add some sight radius, though. Is anyone else thinking of better sights for these?The Meisters came in and my Stage I seems to really like them. I have a lot of seasoning to do, and it hits well enough already to make that fun.
The Williams R sights are what I'm going to cut the block for. It will bolt up into the stock base.There are so many choices, I'm thinking it would be a mistake to try to offer a single one. I'm thinking Stage II should be set up to allow choices there, not make them.It's a ways off, but I can't help thinking about it. When you shoot one with a long barrel, you'll see why I like them so much. Between the balance and the sight radius, they'll be easy to shoot well.
My S1 was shooting low enough that the R sight had to be jacked high enough the nut was 1/2 way off... and it flopped around. 2 layers of beverage can in the barrel clamp brought POI up enough to allow me to set the sight down to nearly the bottom. Looks better, feels better, and with a drop of thread locker on the sight's nut, it's good to go.It just occurred to me that a solid, simple non adjustable sight system could be used on these, if the barrel was set up to be adjusted to POA.We're just getting started here.
Yup. A simple set screw in the top would allow you to loosen the clamp, adjust the set screw precisely, and tighten the clamp. A few mins to make, a minute to adjust.I'm now working on a system for the custom uppers that will adjust side to side as well... and may incorporate thumbscrews. For indoor 5-10M, simple set screw adjustments would be enough. Done right, my idea would hold zero under far more abuse than a sight ever could. Simple blades could be made to interchange, if desired.It's worth the R&D, and as I'm going nuts waiting on lathe parts...