Gentlemen, I recently encountered a problem on my RX2 .20cal.....again. I stripped the stock screw hole on the RX's comp tube. Not the screw but the screw hole. I looked into the hold and it showed only the beginning threads of the hole, not the later half. I used a M5x.8 tap and it worked for just a bit but then it happened again. My next size up tap is M6x1.0 and even though I didn't use it, it looks like that it would leave very little material on one side of it making me think that after continuous cocking, it will fracture.I have asked a fellow member whom I highly regard in their ability to fix just about anything, but just in case there may be an idea that hasn't been thought of or considered. So by helping me so I can help him. So any and all suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated. Cross Posted
Quote from: prosportfan on January 25, 2022, 10:01:56 AMGentlemen, I recently encountered a problem on my RX2 .20cal.....again. I stripped the stock screw hole on the RX's comp tube. Not the screw but the screw hole. I looked into the hold and it showed only the beginning threads of the hole, not the later half. I used a M5x.8 tap and it worked for just a bit but then it happened again. My next size up tap is M6x1.0 and even though I didn't use it, it looks like that it would leave very little material on one side of it making me think that after continuous cocking, it will fracture.I have asked a fellow member whom I highly regard in their ability to fix just about anything, but just in case there may be an idea that hasn't been thought of or considered. So by helping me so I can help him. So any and all suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated. Cross PostedI had the same thing happen to the Beeman R10 I owned years ago and this is the fix i used. I ordered some threaded inserts from McMaster Carr and never had another thread strip out........https://www.mcmaster.com/inserts/nut-type~press-fit/thread-size~m5/https://www.mcmaster.com/99437A150/
I had the exact same problem with an RX2. I fixed it with a Tusk Thread Repair Kit M5x.08 (basically a cheap helicoil kit). The Tusk kit includes the correct drill bit for drilling out the stripped hole, a tap to run through the hole that matches the outside of the insert, the insert, and a T-handle tool to screw it in. I used red loctite to help hold the insert in and snipped it shorter to fit with maybe one extra coil sticking out the far-side of the bracket. This was maybe 4 years ago and it is still holding up.Have fun!
Quote from: nced on January 25, 2022, 11:09:44 AMQuote from: prosportfan on January 25, 2022, 10:01:56 AMGentlemen, I recently encountered a problem on my RX2 .20cal.....again. I stripped the stock screw hole on the RX's comp tube. Not the screw but the screw hole. I looked into the hold and it showed only the beginning threads of the hole, not the later half. I used a M5x.8 tap and it worked for just a bit but then it happened again. My next size up tap is M6x1.0 and even though I didn't use it, it looks like that it would leave very little material on one side of it making me think that after continuous cocking, it will fracture.I have asked a fellow member whom I highly regard in their ability to fix just about anything, but just in case there may be an idea that hasn't been thought of or considered. So by helping me so I can help him. So any and all suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated. Cross PostedI had the same thing happen to the Beeman R10 I owned years ago and this is the fix i used. I ordered some threaded inserts from McMaster Carr and never had another thread strip out........https://www.mcmaster.com/inserts/nut-type~press-fit/thread-size~m5/https://www.mcmaster.com/99437A150/ Ed, wouldn't the inserts interfere with my cocking arm?
SpiralGroove, NCed and Bayman and all others who have responded with opinions and suggestions, thank you all. Bayman, you're right, there's no room what so ever for the inserts as Ed suggested even though that would have been truly ideal. Ed, an awesome suggestion but the cocking arm won't allow it due to no room.Dan D, good suggestion alsoDLP the helicoil will be my next optionEveryone,I borrowed a tap/die set and tapped it with for a M6x1.0 and all that i am having a problem with now is the length of the screw which isn't that bad length wise. I will just have to cut it a smidge. But one thing that is constantly happening is the screws loosening. Previously i used blue loctite and was still encountering the same problem. Any suggestions?Also, what type of washer's should I use? I have none in place as of now and was wondering if I should use lock washers or those washers that have something like teeth or they have some type of star pattern type thing. I did have the brass screw cups but they wouldn't accept the larger screw so I had to remove them and upon removing them, i damaged them. any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I've got the screw cups from AOA. They help, but I still have screw loosening. I've used vibratite successfully with the star washer and flat washer factory style installation, but that was on a well used stock that had cracked (not related to this issue) and had to be replaced. Replaced it I think last winter and been dealing with loose screws since, but it's getting better very slowly.
Quote from: Mrblonde40 on January 28, 2022, 03:21:54 PMI've got the screw cups from AOA. They help, but I still have screw loosening. I've used vibratite successfully with the star washer and flat washer factory style installation, but that was on a well used stock that had cracked (not related to this issue) and had to be replaced. Replaced it I think last winter and been dealing with loose screws since, but it's getting better very slowly. If you Crazy Glue the wood fibers and then use a conical washer it will never budge. See sticky for the Crazy Glue part and Mcmaster-Carr for the beveled or 2 part washers. -Y
... I then tapped both of them to a M6 x 1 ...So ok so now i want to use a helicoil and return the screw size to the original m5 x .8 so is that possible?....