JSAR actually went away from the POLY compression sleeve & collars doing instead a machined length of Acetal with a Fat o-ring at each end running it in a groove next to barrel. The o-rings sits proud in the groove and upon tensioning the barrel the o-rings are nearly crushed square within there respective grooves. One being against receiver, other against a collar the shroud also butts into. Shrouds are aluminum, as are the threaded air stripper, tensioning part at muzzle.
A crushed O-ring stack (with some movement still available, so acting like a stiff spring) sounds like a reasonable alternative to Bellevilles or a strong spring.... The problem with solid metal-to-metal (with different rates of expansion) is that a temperature change might cut your tension in half or double it with the kind of temperature change you might get under differing weather conditions.... It's just a matter of doing the math for the stretch/compression at one temperature and load.... and then figuring the length change at the other temperature and recalculating the load.... If your barrel is CrMoly and with that small a cross section you could use a very thin wall (under 1/32" ? ) CrMoly shroud.... just do a buckle calculation for it at the expected load....Bob
Your SOOOOOO over thinking it. Ya darn engineer !!!
At least put the spring on the muzzle end.
How fast most balanced valves close is a function of how quickly the balance chamber pressure rises to the throat pressure.... The smaller the balance chamber volume and the larger the vent hole into the throat, the more rapidly that occurs.... and the more the valve acts like a conventional valve that is easy to knock open initially.... I don't know if that applies to your design or not....If the plunger strikes the back of the valve body, it can bounce off it.... and the more energy you put into it, the faster the rebound and the less the valve dwell.... If you have a much longer valve stem, so that the dwell is proportional to "hammer" strike without bottoming out.... it will be much more conventional to tune....Bob
as i recall the hammer is the stem , No ?? in other words there is no striking taking place.. Just pushing against the poppet back pressure.. Anyway ,good numbers, depending on the balanced design , the poppet in the far forward position can cause a choke point , where gains would be lost ( ive built one like this and it took me a minute ( read 3 days ) to figure that out ..
I will be interested to see the results. I am wondering how well the solenoid can crack a factory valve open compared to a balanced. Once opened, is a factory valve easier to hold open?I have my arduino programmed, got a boost reg and a premounted fet with driver and a 9v solenoid. Just need some shop time to put it together and get the circuit working. Your results so far are interesting. It seems to me you have proved the concept now you just need to work out the kinks. Dave