GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: threesuns on January 10, 2022, 11:01:17 PM
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Have had this 3rd variant, as a parts gun, 10+ years. the receiver where the stock screw attaches is stripped bad. Other issues … missing stock retention screw, pump cup missing & valve condition?? but cosmetically not too bad & 95% complete.
having brought my 1rst variant back to life I though 1 day I figure out a way to bring this 1 back too.
well its going to happen … a NOS receiver & stock screw showed up at my door today.
Looking for suggestions to try to duplicate original crinkle finish on the receiver. my 1rst thought is spray on bedliner ??
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One day I hope to find one to rebuild, until then I will be happy to see your progress on this one. As for finishes, I am in the same thought as you for using a truck bed liner type paint, but others may give a better option as some truck bed paint seems a little rougher than the original Krinkle finish.
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Well if you want to get into building Kessler.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/921046624 (https://www.gunbroker.com/item/921046624)
Steve in GA. Knowing him he take alot less than his starting price.
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Mike,
I think that’s a little more than I want to take on at the moment, but it is tempting. All I am looking for is one to set next to my 1880’s vintage Kessler Brewing Company Beer Bottle, that was produced here in Helena, Montana.
Out of curiosity I lost track of them or maybe you sold them all, do you happen to have any of your Crosman 114s available? I really like the Crosman Model 99 I picked up from you last fall.
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finally got the kessler apart. Should’ve been a combination of copper & leather shims to seal the valve halves but this one was glued together. looks like the hammer spring lost a coil or 2 at some point too.
Good news though ?? … the new stock screw is too long & will need to be cut to length and only the last 1/4 of receiver is stripped. the remaining 3/4 inch was packed with shavings on top of the set screw that holds the valve. maybe it can be saved.
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Following. This is very interesting. Please be generous with photos of your build as you move along.
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so here’s the valve assembly in order … input 1/2 of valve is soldered to compression tube, check valve is 3 pieces with seal sandwiched between 2 parts that unscrew (seal easily fab’d from a crosman end seal) valve spring, poppet ball, seal nut, seal (again easily fab’d from an end seal), valve body (my 1rst variant was brass), hammer, spring, nut, striker & pull knob.
again only thing missing is the copper & leather shim seals between the valve halves … which I will replace with an O-ring. A little trial & error to get the thickness right to align the exhaust port with adequate seal & compression while in the receiver.
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Thank you for the organized picture. That’s an interesting design. That valve spring looks similar to the football style used in early Crosman’s 100, 101, 102’s. I like to know the dimensions too if it isn’t too much to ask. The spring wire size too. The reason being is if the Kessler used the same spring as a Crosman and Steve has some NOS springs in stock this could really help some of us with the early guns.
Also, that ball valve design is a great feature. What a classic air rifle.
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Kessler valve spring. sorry for the pics … my digital calibers battery is dead & I haven’t used these ones since high school. Digital tech has made me forgot how to read.
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here’s the check valve disassembled.
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is it .053 or .052 wire ??
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Timothy wife and I are almost out the door. I’ll get back on the wire and the check valve looks just like an early Crosman.
Can’t thank you enough.
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is it .053 or .052 wire ??
I believe that wire is .053 or fifty three thousandths. The length looks to be around 1-1/8”.
I’ll add some dimensions of the spring from my Crosman on another thread so it won’t confuse any Kessler builders. Mine is different enough to leave it out.
Thanks again!
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new valve seals installed … O-ring between valve halves … 3/16 drift punch will align TP, then valve set screw will lock it down & I will tighten the compression tube. O ring should compress, sealing the valve & atleast provide an addition seal between the valve and receiver, on 1 side, since there is no TP seal (if I have the size right).
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i think I have it … maybe a degree or 2 off but since its only hand tight it can easily be tweaked later.
I tried using the copper/leather shim method when rebuilding my second variant model A & gave up. not sure how the factory did it. I didn’t want use goop & have issues getting it back apart when & if need. IMO O-ring is the way to go.
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Kessler valve spring. sorry for the pics … my digital calibers battery is dead & I haven’t used these ones since high school. Digital tech has made me forgot how to read.
.055” per your picture
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.055” per your picture
Thanks, Kieth
stock screw shortened, installed & holding strong. getting ready to install & adjust pump rod.
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Kessler valve spring. sorry for the pics … my digital calibers battery is dead & I haven’t used these ones since high school. Digital tech has made me forgot how to read.
.055” per your picture
Thanks Keith!
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forgot … have an old picture of a kessler seal kit. since the pump cups R pretty unique … I chose to go with a Mac1 delrin O-ring pump for my Model A 2nd variant because I just love that 1 and shoot it often.
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Well it’s not a power house … in fact 10 pumps is only in the 550fps range. Quite a bit off from the advertised 700fps but then my other kessler is just barely over 600fps.
You won’t win any target competitions with it either … it was the last build before the end. Notable differences in build quality between my 2. but it’s a plinker again.
I’ve put 2 pumps in it & softly released the hammer, if it holds overnite, I’ll call it done.
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Nice save, Kessler's and Rochester's are among my favorites. I have a standard Kessler that shoots RWS Superpoints in the 690 range with 10 pumps. I think part of the reason for lower velocities is reusing springs that were heated up when breaking old valve solder during resealing.
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Well I’m happy it held air overnite.
You might be right about springs Jon, but I didn’t use any heat during disassembly.
My model A I blame on headspace. The Mac1 flattop just doesn’t fit the domed valve face like an original cup would but I’m glad I saved that for the model C.
And the model C I could probably adjust the pump rod another 1/8 turn top & bottom but they are so close to maxed out & still not bottoming out.
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Timothy
Can you give me the serial numbers stamped on the pump lever of your new model C please.
I have been collecting Kessler serials trying to refine the timeline on when they were made.
The model C has two variants.
Thanks
Dave
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Here it is Dave … s/n 42223
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Yup
I thought so a late Model C variant 2. Made toward the end of production!
Straight buttstock
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that must be why I see such a deference in build quality … 1 low serial number & 1 high number.
Both of these were my oldest pending projects. Glad they are done.
what’s next ???