anschutz 335 trigger adjustment
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anschutz 335 trigger adjustment
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Topic: anschutz 335 trigger adjustment (Read 392 times))
aroundlocks
Shooter
Posts: 30
yes
Real Name: Paul
anschutz 335 trigger adjustment
«
on:
July 17, 2021, 01:58:04 PM »
Hi to all
I have a question on the trigger for a anshutz 335
The trigger has no tension uncocked a falls back and forth/ when gun is cocked first stage is the same then trigger is normal to fire.
It's like a spring or something is missing as there is no tension on the trigger.
If anybody can help I would be grateful also is it normal for this gun to put out 6ft lbs in 22 cal
Best regards to all
Paul
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UK, Westmidlands, England
MDriskill
Expert
Posts: 1362
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Real Name: Mike
Re: anschutz 335 trigger adjustment
«
Reply #1 on:
July 17, 2021, 02:46:36 PM »
It's been many years since I had the gun, and have forgotten many details! But I do recall it's VERY easy to over-adjust this trigger so it does
dangerous
stuff - definitely be careful with it.
The 335 was sold with both German-legal and export-strength springs. 6 FPE would be about right for the German spring, though that seems an unusual combination with a .22. There was also a .177 target version of the gun, the 335S, sold in all markets with the weaker spring. It should be 9 or 10 FPE with the stronger export spring. Jim Maccari sells an excellent full-strength replacement spring for the 335.
Here is a parts diagram and English-language manual for the 335 (sold here as the "Crosman Challenger 6500"):
https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/201668554/6500-EVP.pdf
Here is my description - kinda wordy...sorry! 😬 - of adjusting the trigger, from many moons ago. I encountered your exact issue as part of the process. (You'll need to look at the diagram and parts numbers and names, to make sense of this.):
I will refer to all parts by the names and numbers used on the “"Crosman Challenger 6500" (re-
badged Anschutz 335 for US market) parts diagram that I have. "In” = clockwise rotation of a screw, “out" = counterclockwise.
There is NO adjustment for pull weight per se on this trigger. Resistance is set by
“trigger spring 52,” in the front of “sear latch 53,” and this is fixed in place.
It may help to take the gun’s action out of the stock and set the sear by hand with a small
screwdriver or similar tool, by pushing its lower leg forward until caught by the sear latch. This
is useful for studying how the trigger works, or for rough adjustments. BUT, there is quite
a bit more slack in the system when doing this, than when the gun is cocked! Final
adjustments, to be safe, MUST be done while actually cocking and firing the rifle.
There are three adjusters in the trigger block: “sear adjusting screw 45" (and accompanying
nut 46) in the back of the trigger block; “trigger set screw 57" in the front of the trigger; and
“trigger creep screw 58" behind the trigger.
45/46 is set at the factory and regulates how far “sear 51" swings back after release. It does
not affect the trigger pull that I can see, and there is no reason to adjust it.
When the gun is cocked, the top of the sear is pushed back by the piston rod until its lower leg
is trapped against a notch in the sear latch. “Trigger 55" is pinned to the back of the sear
latch. When screw 57 is turned in, it reduces sear engagement, by lowering the sear latch in relation to
the sear. When the trigger is pulled, the end of 57 acts as a fulcrum, further lowering the trigger and latch from this initial point, until the sear is released.
Screw 57 is a tough customer! If 57 is too far in, the gun will not cock as the sear cannot
engage the latch, or the sear engagement may be so slight that the gun can fire inadvertently.
But if 57 is too far out (on my gun at least), there is so much friction in the sear that the trigger
will not return to its starting point, when pulled back partly and then released.
A “sticky” trigger
is annoying and also potentially dangerous.
Screw 58 simply acts as a secondary fulcrum. When the trigger is pulled, the end of 58
contacts a fixed plate. This reduces the trigger’s mechanical advantage and the pull weight
thus becomes noticeably more difficult. If 58 is turned too far in, there is no “first stage” of the
trigger pull–you get a short, heavy pull. If 58 is too far out, then there is no “second
stage”–you get a long, light pull and unpredictable release.
So the proper sequence for adjustment is this:
1 turn 58 OUT, until there is no second stage.
2 turn 57 IN or OUT, until the length of pull suits you (remember, longer pull = more sear
engagement and greater safety margin), and checking to see that the blade returns if
released before firing.
3 now turn 58 back IN, until the second stage is felt just before the trigger releases.
A couple of notes: 1) if you change 57, you'll need to re-adjust 58 to re-set the first stage length; 2) on my gun the little plastic gadgets (“trigger set screw lock nut 56") intended to keep the adjuster screws from slipping, deteriorated over time. I will replace them with small O-rings or something similar.
«
Last Edit: July 17, 2021, 03:43:46 PM by MDriskill
»
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Wood, steel, and leather...all you need for a proper airgun!
MDriskill
Expert
Posts: 1362
yes
Real Name: Mike
Re: anschutz 335 trigger adjustment
«
Reply #2 on:
July 17, 2021, 03:23:27 PM »
Oh, one other thing...
The trigger block is held into the receiver tube by two pins. Cocking the action releases all tension on these. Normally no problem as they are retained by the stock...but, if you take the action out of the wood, cock it, and tilt it sideways - the pins will actually FALL OUT! At that point the whole shebang is held together by the SEAR ONLY - pull the trigger, you'll get a VERY dangerous high-speed trigger block and spring out the back!
Again...not an airgun for dummies, LOL. BE CAREFUL when adjusting it!
«
Last Edit: July 17, 2021, 03:38:06 PM by MDriskill
»
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Wood, steel, and leather...all you need for a proper airgun!
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anschutz 335 trigger adjustment