I've reworked my trigger. It is better (for me) but still too heavy. Estimating over 6 lb?I will eventually post full mods with photos, but have not had time to document yet. Also, still working on making it "better".Some of my terminology may be incorrect. Sorry, but I'm still learning also. Let's see if a plain text description helps?The rear stock "stud" (male threads into end plug, female threads for rear stock screw, and locks trigger group in place) is a LEFT-HAND thread into the end plug. Mine turns RIGHT to loosen!Once removed, the trigger group comes out easily. No need for further disassembly or a spring compressor.I'm calling this a ONE stage trigger.Remove the trigger blade pin CAREFULLY. There is a "fake" first stage coil spring in the trigger blade. On my trigger, this is where all the CRUNCHINESS came from. I removed the spring, but that allows the trigger blade to flop around in what was the fake first stage take-up range.There is a screw hole in front of the trigger blade which is empty. I took a small 2.5mm x 5mm screw from an old Crosman trigger and it threaded into that hole perfectly, but did not stick out the other side to take up any fake first stage slack. A longer screw was TOO LONG, so I carefully filed the plastic trigger blade under that screw HEAD until the 5mm screw stuck out the other side about 1mm when fully seated. The rear adjustment screw supposedly provides preload on the intermediate sear and reduces primary sear engagement, i.e. "shortens the fake second stage". However, that screw cannot seat DEEP enough to actually do ANYTHING! The head bottoms out on an angled portion of the trigger blade long before the screw can do its thing.I filed this area of the plastic trigger blade FLAT plus a little extra so the screw could be turned all the way in with the head flat to the plastic trigger blade. This allowed the screw to stick out the other side about 2mm which is enough to put TOO MUCH preload on the intermediate sear. That screw was also POINTED and SCRAPED (Argh!) along the intermediate sear lever. I removed the screw and round polished the end, which also removed some length and made the final adjustment range almost ideal.I polished all the sear contact points and added a thin coating of moly paste. Reassembled with both screws flush on the INSIDE surface of the trigger blade as a starting point. I found on MY RIFLE that I could turn the front screw all the way in until it bottomed out. That would take up all the fake first stage slack and still allow the SAFETY to properly engage. If the front screw is too long or too far "in", the safety WON'T work.Then I started turning in the rear screw to get SOME preload on the intermediate sear, i.e. "shorten the trigger travel". If I go all the way in, the sear overlap is VERY small and the trigger travel to release is SCARY SHORT. I have to back out the rear screw ~1.5 turns to get what I feel is a reasonably safe trigger. Trigger is now a REAL single stage, VERY SMOOTH, comfortably short, and predictable. It is also still TOO HARD!I'm about 98% certain this is due to the HEAVY primary sear spring. I believe I can hand wind a new custom (torsion) spring that will drop the trigger weight down into the 2-3 lb range and still safely/reliably engage the piston. I have already acquired assorted music (spring) wire and will attempt this in a couple weeks.Sorry I don't have any photos at this time.Word of caution... PLEASE be very careful whenever you attempt ANY type of trigger work!
Thanks! Great info. No wonder I couldn't remove the trigger group... It's a left hand thread and I was trying like heck to turn it like a normal screw. Also nice to know I don't have to put it in my spring compressor to get it out of there. I was doing that just in case. Will try it this weekend. I lightened the safety by grinding down in the bump that the wire spring slides over to engage /disengage. It can be done by a finger flick now instead of having to push on it with your thumb.
Michael, I think I figured out where some of the crunchiness is coming from. The primary sear (the one that engages the hammer) actually is designed to have lateral motion. Notice that the rear hole is actually a short slot that allows it to slide rearward on cocking. That pin is brass (or bronze?). When the hammer comes back during cocking, it pushes that primary sear back slightly in the slot. That allows it to drop down and engage the hammer and also engage the intermediate sear so that it stays cocked. Not sure if that makes sense. It's kind of like it cocks on two surfaces - the hammer and the primary-intermediate sear contact point.In any event, the inside of that slot is very rough. I polished the slot and also the brass/bronze pin that rides in there and the action is quite smooth now. Unfortunately, I did something wrong re-assembling and it doesn't cock at the moment - just comes to a hard stop and goes no further. Not sure what I did wrong on re-assembly. Have to take it apart this weekend and try to figure that out.