I have a new 5" 3 jaw chuck arriving in a couple days, the cheap 5" Chinese chuck I ordered..........This particular chuck comes with a back plate (to be machined to fit my bench top lathe) and free shipping so I took the risk. LOL, only 1 review in a foreign language but the retailer is located in Michigan. I'm hoping that the thing isn't "hammer and file" construction like the Chinese B3 I bought decades ago. LOL....I did find a new Bison 5" 3 jaw chuck on sale for a bit under $1000 so a sub $200 (shipping and tax included) Chinese chuck with reversible jaws does seem suspect so I'm hoping that it's at least as good as the other Chinese chuck I bought from Grizzly a couple decades ago. I know that the Chinese clucks contain a lot of "grinding debris" that wasn't removed at assembly. Before breaking down the new chuck for a "dustin & cleanin" I've been watching YouTube videos on the subject. Funny thing is that there are several options such as grease, oil, dry graphite etc.The issues mentioned against using grease is that the grease will trap swarf with use. Supposedly the issue with oil is that it gets "slung out" when the chuck is spinning. The dry graphite approach seems viable but I'm wondering if the dry chuck parts will rust from atmospheric humidity in an outdoor garage. If a "dry powder" is indeed a good chuck lube then I have a pound of 5 micron molly powder that I bought to make my own "springer lube blend" but it was never used. Perhaps using the molly powder might be a good use so I'm wondering what the personal opinions of GTA machinists might be.
A good puff of compressed air clears that out.
Several years back I bought a new Cushman, and Bison 3 jaw chucks. At that time both came with paper work that recommended lubing with Moly only. I cleaned them and brushed them with Moly and never a problem.
I have a new 5" 3 jaw chuck arriving in a couple days, the cheap 5" Chinese chuck I ordered..........This particular chuck comes with a back plate (to be machined to fit my bench top lathe) and free shipping so I took the risk. LOL, only 1 review in a foreign language but the retailer is located in Michigan. I'm hoping that the thing isn't "hammer and file" construction like the Chinese B3 I bought decades ago. LOL....I did find a new Bison 5" 3 jaw chuck on sale for a bit under $1000 so a sub $200 (shipping and tax included) Chinese chuck with reversible jaws does seem suspect so I'm hoping that it's at least as good as the other Chinese chuck I bought from Grizzly a couple decades ago. I know that the Chinese clucks contain a lot of "grinding debris" that wasn't removed at assembly. Before breaking down the new chuck for a "dustin & cleanin" I've been watching YouTube videos on the subject. Funny thing is that there are several options such as grease, oil, dry graphite etc.The back plate blank is larger in diameter than I would prefer and will be a hassle to machine down to size with my rather small bench top lathe. The issues mentioned against using grease is that the grease will trap swarf with use. Supposedly the issue with oil is that it gets "slung out" when the chuck is spinning. The dry graphite approach seems viable but I'm wondering if the dry chuck parts will rust from atmospheric humidity in an outdoor garage. If a "dry powder" is indeed a good chuck lube then I have a pound of 5 micron molly powder that I bought to make my own "springer lube blend" but it was never used. Perhaps using the molly powder might be a good use so I'm wondering what the personal opinions of GTA machinists might be.
Just so you know, WD-40 will not stop rust. When I worked at N.A.R.F. Pensacola, on the Gulf, we tried WD-40 as a rust preventative on our machine tools. Overnight, the WD-40 would gain a brown tinge to it, (rust). But then again, humidity was usually about 100%. ATF works, as does Marvel Mystery Oil. Just sayin.And +1 on the molybdenum disulfide.
After the unused new chuck parts washdown there was more "dirt" in the wash than I thought..........