Chamber re-lube at kit install

[claird]

I have not installed a kit or torn down my R-9 yet but I don't understand one step of the process.  If the chamber has been deburred and is now spanky clean and ready for a new seal, there has to be some sort of lube for the chamber walls. What is it and how is it applied? I realize you can't just slop stuff in there without making a diesel engine, but I seem to be missing this lubrication detail in my readings of the process.

A second but related question is whether or not the Vortek kit is a slightly different design concept than Maccari? 

[Bentong]

IIRC, chamber wall and end should be degreased and cross hatch. You use lube now on the chamber and when you push that piston with seal is guaranteed to give you a detonation. The lube that eventually end on the wall is from the moly applied sparingly behind of the seal. GTA has info on lubes under maintenance found at GTA LIBRARY and it's currently OOC. Try here under all about lubricants on Charlie's site > http://charliedatuna.com/Airgun%20Info.htm

[daved]

Bentong is correct, do NOT apply lube to the compression chamber!  A thin coat behind the front lip of the piston seal is all that's needed, try not to get it on the face of the seal.  It'll be a little stiff the first few times you cock and fire it, but will settle in quickly.

Yes, the Vortek kit is a different design concept, it uses both an internal as well as an external guide at the rear of the spring.  This effectively encapsulates the spring when the rifle is cocked, since the rear guide extends into the piston.  Here's the Diana 34 version of both kits side by side:



The JM kit is on the top, and as you can see, the Vortek kit is noticeably shorter.  Despite the shorter spring, the two kits produced virtually identical power in my 34.  I have a JM kit in my R9, but only because the Vortek wasn't available yet.  Truth is, I don't think you can go wrong with either kit.  Later.

Dave