There is a low temperature solder made for dissimilar metals, I think we got it from the Premier or Lawson tool vender. I used it to solder the zinc / aluminum alloy frame on some 2240's I modified, that's what I would use to fill in the low spots. hth.
Might be alumiweld, but Muggyweld has a few different alloys for different stuff https://www.muggyweld.com/
Is the area steel or aluminum? If aluminum you might try the aluminum rods from harbor freight, they are the lower temperature alloy, I think the same as Muggyweld #1 that goes on with propane or maybe butane.Biggest issue I've had with Muggyweld #2 was getting the base metal clean and keeping oxides off while you work. But when it works, it is strong. I have some of the harbor freight rods, but haven't needed them yet.If it is steel or some other metal, I'd probably order some of the pot metal rods from Muggy.
I'd get the harbor freight rods, way cheaper than most other places for the same stuff. Watch some videos as there is some prep involved.Does Ceracoat require baking to cure? If it does then epoxy won't work. Never done Ceracoat.You can try soaking in Acetone to remove powder coat, the uncured stuff seems to dissolve, not sure about cured powder.
Harbor freight rods would be my choice, next would probably be the highest temp JB Weld you can find at the auto parts store and hope it works.https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.htmlNeed a propane torch and probably a fresh stainless steel brush. If you have an oxy-other gas torch, you can be more successful by running the flame as oxygen deprived. That will help prevent the aluminum from forming oxides while you work. Oxygen rich would be the opposite and you kind of get oxygen rich with a propane torch, at least my experience using these products with propane/butane.