Just used my YH compressor to fill from 3800psi to 4500 psi. Took maybe 10+ minutes or so. Plenty of water and ice in the bucket for sure. Never run it over 15 minutes (mostly around 10 minutes) let cold water run about ten minutes after i shut it off too.wll
MY two cents1. The YH compessor is most definatly disigned to fill tanks not just guns.2. Most of the heat is from compressing the air. Same energy pushed into a smaller space this happens with ALL compessors.3. When buying a YH make sure it is a real YH not a knock off. I have had both and the knock off are what give the YH the bad rep.4. Reducing the voltage will only make the pump draw more amps. Dont do it!!5. Last but not least and this is a Big one. The secret to long life of YH compessors is simple, if your pump is getting hot it means you need to change your second stage piston rings. If my compressor starts getting over 60 deg when filling my 75 cuft tank from 3000 to 4500 I know that its time to change the rings. I have never timed filling my tank but I would say its never more then 10 min. And will easily go to 5000 PSI, I did this by accident one time. On these compessors the second stage rings are a maintance item and not a repair item and should be listed this way in the owners manual.Curtis, I agree with you regarding the knock offs giving the YH a bad rep! I also agree with the 2'nd stage rings being a consumable item. With this said, can you possibly tell me where you purchase your rings? Thank you
Green I order them off of Aliexpress. Just search for Yong Heng parts. I would check your piston before ordering to make sure it is the same. FYI If you do not have the piston with the 3 secondary piston rings then you do not have a REAL Yoong Heng.I think I got 25 for $25 if memory serves me right. Also you can get other part you may need there.
What about adding molybdenum or tungsten micronized powder to the crankcase oil? I was told it works well for a car's engine, why not in an HPA compressor? Decreasing friction is the key to lower the operating temp and add longevity. Me very tempted to try it, since I do have tungsten powder.
Quote from: happymecanic on August 25, 2019, 06:41:38 PMWhat about adding molybdenum or tungsten micronized powder to the crankcase oil? I was told it works well for a car's engine, why not in an HPA compressor? Decreasing friction is the key to lower the operating temp and add longevity. Me very tempted to try it, since I do have tungsten powder.I finally tried it, and first results are encouraging. I added about a flush teaspoon of tungsten dry powder (0.3 microns) to the crankcase oil in my Tuxing compressor. Then started it with the bleed valve opened and had it run for about 10 seconds - no strange noise or smell. I started by filling my 2.17 liters (about 132.4 cu.in.) carbon fiber tank, which took about 18 minutes, from 0 to 4200 psi. Temperature of the compressor rose to 38.1°C (100.5°F), which is about the same as when I filled my 48 cu.in. paintball bottle before in the same ambiant conditions. (It's the very first time I fill this CF tank, so I can't give a direct comparison with a ''before''). I then filled my 48 cu.in bottle from 1500 to 3100 psi, with the same water in the cooling bucket, and the compressor temp only rose 2 more degrees C. The sound of the compressor has changed a bit too, it's a little mellower than before, it seems to run smoother. I'll continue to use my compressor like that and report back if there's something worth mentionning. If someone has a similar experience, please share.
I'll ask again here if anybody knows if you can get the thermostat to shut off when in disuse?Its always on and apparently killing the batteries
Quote from: antithesis on June 09, 2021, 06:48:27 PMI'll ask again here if anybody knows if you can get the thermostat to shut off when in disuse?Its always on and apparently killing the batteries My temp display turns off with the switch... but then, I kill power to the entire circuit when not in use... been two years, same battery. So...Not trying to hyjack this tread, but since we have all the collective minds together. The original Y.H. manual called for AW-46 Hydraulic oil.I bought a gallon. Ran it on that for the initial run / break in. Then drained and refilled. The sight glass is still clear an no issues after aprox 1 hour of total run time. I do not fill big tanks. Only top off my guns and twice have filled a 48ci bottle from 1000 to 3000 psi.3 minutes to fill the bottle or about a minute or so to fill a gun each run.Never had a "serious " work out and it is doing fine.I am a Maintenance Manager by trade. At one of my past plants that closed I had a Joy Turbine compressor. "Spoils of War" I came home with a 6g bucket of red "Special Turbine Oil #4 (ISO 150)"THIS would be a lifetime supply if it is suitable.The turbine compressor only worked to 150 psi. But in my Aircraft Maintenance background, turbines need a much higher grade than standard lubricants.THOUGHTS?
I'm prepping to try the very same thing....I can only presume you are referring to tungsten DISULFIDE.....without any filter to clog I can only imagine it could help. I'd like to say I thought of this first to try in a YH but I can only confirm we must think alike.....and source from the same sources
I’ve been thinking of trying to adapt a weed whacker gas engine to a Yong Heng. Crazy? Maybe.
Bill, Does your temp display still illuminate when the power switch is "off"?Mine doesn't