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Scope zero at max power ?

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JimR:
Was watching an older video and it was stated you should zero your scope at its max magnification. Agree ? Reason why ?

Roadworthy:
I never thought about it.  A possible reason could be that errors will be magnified at maximum power.  If you shake a little bit you'll notice it at maximum power and be aware.  At lower power the shake will be less noticeable.  I suppose other errors in aim would work out the same way.  I find I can shoot more accurately with greater magnification.  It allows me to see the target more clearly.

Mole2017:
Assuming your scope is well collimated so that the crosshairs stay put as you zoom (most are, I hope), it does get you a little more accuracy at the higher magnifications. That is, you can see what you are doing better. Kind of like fat reticles vs fine reticles and blocking the bullseye.

But if you can see what you are doing at the magnification you intend to use, there's no harm in going with that level. I do everything at 9x, so that's where I check my zero.

nced:

--- Quote from: JimR on February 04, 2019, 12:23:39 PM ---Was watching an older video and it was stated you should zero your scope at its max magnification. Agree ? Reason why ?

--- End quote ---
Since my scopes have a 12x max mag and 16x max mag I zero at max magnification.
I SUPPOSE that reason some don't is because some scopes will shift their zero when changing the magnification.

Using only one power setting elliminates any possibility of "scope power poi shifts". While I could live with "scope power setting poi shifting", a few years back I even had a 4-12x40 Hawke Panorama that would shift the poi simply by focusing which was completely unacceptable...........

Mole2017:
Nced's example reminds me of shift due to focus problems. That can come from a few sources. If the objective lens isn't collimated, that is, properly aligned to the optical axis, then the image will move around as the objective is rotated, if it is a front end OA. (Side wheel is another type of system that works some lenses internally.) Well made scopes won't do it.

However, if the either end of the scope has been bent, then the lenses at that end are no longer aligned to the optical axis and you are in the same spot. Both the AO feature and the eyepiece focus move a lens in and out along the optical axis and if collimation is off the centers will move off axis relative to each other as you move the lenses. The zoom feature moves a lens internally and if things aren't right, it can do it too.

I have such a "bent" scope, though, fortunately it is on the eyepiece end. I think it got dropped by a relative when I wasn't around, because I think I'd remember an accident that could bend a Leapers scope. Since I don't have reason to adjust the focus, I think it isn't causing problems. The bend is pretty much vertically oriented. So in my case any shift it vertical, not like Nced's example, and may just "look" like some extra drop along the trajectory as seen by the shooter--or maybe even a flatter trajectory. Wow, that would be nice :). I haven't tried hard to figure it out: it is still on my CFX and it hasn't stopped me from doing some pretty nice shots when I needed to.

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