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Gauntlet parts

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Treb37:
Just picked up a .25 Gauntlet on sale. I know Hajimoto makes custom parts, where can I get OEM parts like barrels and uppers?

Treb37:
I guess some more info is in order. A while back I built a QB78 Ninja HPA conversion that has been working well for me. I did the laundry list of mods that were being talked about on here including the valve mods and opening the transfer port.

I filled my gauntlet straight out of the box and it leaked from the get go. 100 or so rounds in and it's still leaking at about the same rate. I have voided my warranty  8) by fully disassembling the rifle and deburring and polishing parts. I also enlarged the transfer port in the barrel to the same wire gauge drill bit as the valve. I am pretty sure the valve is what's leaking because I can hear it coming thru the breach when I first start filling, on a flat bottle. It seals up to some degree after more pressure is applied.

I inspected the valve when I had it down and it looks to me like there is an  irregularity in the valve seat and the poppet is not centered on the shaft. In other words when I burnished the valve I could see the poppet wobbling. Planning to order a new poppet kit from Hajimoto but curious if this specific problem has been seen before and if there is any fix. I thought about burnishing it with some rubbing compound to see if I could polish out the seat?

The reason for asking about parts availability is I might try converting this to a .22 cal with a different barrel and bolt.

Hajimoto:
Umarex parts is where you will need to go to get parts. The leak can be the poppet or the valve body o-ring. I would check replace the valve body o-ring first. I do offer tuning o-ring set that contains enough to replace the o-rings twice.

Treb37:
Thanks for the reply Haji... I have plenty of the valve body O-rings on hand from my HPA QB78 conversion which is pretty obviously where the idea for the gauntlet came from. I've had the valve out many times now and changed the seal making sure not to shave off the edges on the bottle adapter holes as well. I'm pretty sure it's the poppet seal and I'm going to order the STK kit from your website. But the valve seat appeared to have tooling marks on it which I attempted to polish out. That succeeded in slowing down the leak some. I don't think I've seen it on your tutorial videos but we used to "Flow" the valve body to get rid of the hard edge to allow smoother airflow through the port. I'd like to do that on mine but those Dremel tool burrs can get away from a guy and I want to know I can get a replacement valve body if I booger up the one I have.

I lcouldn't find a parts section on the Umarex website to order parts online....do I need to call them?

scion19801:
email umarex. i know i was in that boat as well. the valve body was like $10 if i recall. but that was before this virus &^^& started. can you post up some pics of the valve seat? I had the same issue. I ended up cutting small squares of fine sand paper and pushing the stem through it to help burnish polish the seat and poppet together. i had a bad spot that wouldn't seal as well. I found that with the valve all out. clean it up and assemble it and put the cage in your mouth and try to blow through the valve. wiggle the valve stem and see if you can get it to leak. which i'm sure you will. sand and polish some more, til you can get it to seal by this testing.  then reassemble just the lower tube and valve. air it up and dunk it in water. this will tell you if you have it 100% sealed up. Took me a few tries to get mine to finally seal back up using this method. mine now holds air forever.

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