Good thinking on the springs and parts salvage!Now I have to ask, and I have check other posts, but I am getting a lot of mixed ideas; lubrication.This bad boy needs a clean and lube job but some guys say use oil, other guys say never use oil, one guy says moly paste, and so on. Sooo what’s the best answer? Is this Loctite moly paste the bees knees for a tune lube like some say or am I spending for no reason?Please forgive me for opening said can of worms 😅
Hello and welcome on the forum Jonathan,Even if you're a good welder, I strongly NOT RECOMMEND to cut and re-weld together your piston's latch rod. The rod is made from heat-hardening tool steel, and its hardness/reliability will be greatly affected by the welding operation. You'd be much better re-grinding/milling the notch after cutting the rod to length. One easy way to get the notch right would be to make the notch before cutting the rod, so you'd get a good reference for correct radial positionning - to make it square and aligned with the piston slot in other words. After the notch is made, the rod will have to be re-hardened and tempered.This is a rather serious safety issue, as the rod could break at the weld or wear out very prematurely at the latching notch because the steel has softened, and I wouldn't want a fellow Canadian airgunner to have an accident . Please feel free to inquire for more details.Now for a deeper plunge into the can of worms :Moly paste: Yes the Loctite brand is good to use, it has a content of over 60% molybdenum in it I think. Moly lube is used on the ends of the main spring after you polished them. It can also be used sparingly on trigger parts, again after a good polishing job. Also excellent on the barrel lock-up mechanism, barrel pivot, and cocking arm end/shoe.Silicone oil: Only used on the sides of the main seal when installing it, and good to use regularly on the breech seal. YOU DON'T WANT TO USE IT AS A METAL-TO-METAL LUBRICANT, it promotes galling and eventual seizing of the parts. Metal-to-synthetic is OK.Non-detergent SAE 10, 20 or 30 weight oil, mineral or synthetic: Used on pivots, sliding parts, trigger parts, but NEVER into or close to the compression chamber in a spring/piston airgun. Spring/piston airguns work a little like a Diesel engine, and the rapid compresion of the air, and the resulting heat may make the mineral/synthetic oil or grease ignite, causing ''dieseling'' (moderate effect) or detonation (severe effect). Same will result if oil/grease get into the barrel. All this is very bad for the seal and main spring, and may make the rifle sound like a RF. I have to add that a little dieseling is somewhat normal in brand new spring/piston airguns, often the manufacturer puts anti-rust lube in the barrel (or anywhere else). As a matter of fact, a good barrel cleaning is good to do on a new gun, or after a lube job to make sure there's no oil/grease left in it.On a tight-fitting mainspring on a plastic guide I also like to use some light-weight synthetic grease, a very thin coat applied with a small paintbrush does well.This is just a summary of what can be done, there's much more to it as you saw! Hope that helps, and please be safe .Francois
Quote from: Aakkiirraa on May 27, 2022, 03:21:44 PMGood thinking on the springs and parts salvage!Now I have to ask, and I have check other posts, but I am getting a lot of mixed ideas; lubrication.This bad boy needs a clean and lube job but some guys say use oil, other guys say never use oil, one guy says moly paste, and so on. Sooo what’s the best answer? Is this Loctite moly paste the bees knees for a tune lube like some say or am I spending for no reason?Please forgive me for opening said can of worms 😅Moly paste has been the standard for years. Now many people prefer Kroytox. Either one would be fine.No oil ever...-Y